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4.3 V6 Engine oil dipstick.


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Warranty is over and decision has been made to keep my truck for the long term.   As a result, I have stopped going to the dealership for all my maintenance.  I have become much more zealous in checking the work done by other service centers.  I have a concern that the cable style dipstick that is found in the 4.3 is almost impossible to check for overfilling.  How do you tell if fresh oil surpasses the hash marks and goes an inch up the cable?   I tried googling to find a traditional blade style replacement to no avail.  Doing the work myself is no longer an option for me but I still want it done correctly.  Has anyone of you found the cable type dipstick a problem, and if so, have you found a replacement or work around? 

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37 minutes ago, Donstar said:

Warranty is over and decision has been made to keep my truck for the long term.   As a result, I have stopped going to the dealership for all my maintenance.  I have become much more zealous in checking the work done by other service centers.  I have a concern that the cable style dipstick that is found in the 4.3 is almost impossible to check for overfilling.  How do you tell if fresh oil surpasses the hash marks and goes an inch up the cable?   I tried googling to find a traditional blade style replacement to no avail.  Doing the work myself is no longer an option for me but I still want it done correctly.  Has anyone of you found the cable type dipstick a problem, and if so, have you found a replacement or work around? 

I question not going to the dealer. I have 3 over 10 year old vehicles that only been serviced at the dealership. An 05 Elantra, 01 Acura, 11 Genesis. My 15 Honda and 17 Toyota. According to the documents in my 02 Avalanche I bought used the same. I actually bought it at that servicing dealership. I get coupons from most of those dealers for discounts on oil changes, brake jobs, batteries and lately tires. They can never say the last place messed up my ride. I do work on my Avalanche myself. It’s very easy. The rest there’s no joy in it. Off to the dealership they go.

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I've never had a problem reading the cable style dipsticks 🤷‍♂️  You'd know if you were over capacity if you see oil going above the hatch marks and up the end of the bell the marks are on.  Proper level checking is key vs. the style of stick.  

 

Warm oil when you drain.  Let it settle 5 minutes before you drain it to get as much as possible down in the pan, then when you pull the plug let it drain to a drip, drip, drip.  Fresh filter and 6 quarts back in it, fire it up for 30 seconds then shut it off and wait 3-5 minutes.  Check the stick and it should read on the money.  Works every time on my 2019 old body 5.3.    

Edited by newdude
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1 hour ago, newdude said:

I've never had a problem reading the cable style dipsticks 🤷‍♂️  You'd know if you were over capacity if you see oil going above the hatch marks and up the end of the bell the marks are on.  Proper level checking is key vs. the style of stick.  

 

Warm oil when you drain.  Let it settle 5 minutes before you drain it to get as much as possible down in the pan, then when you pull the plug let it drain to a drip, drip, drip.  Fresh filter and 6 quarts back in it, fire it up for 30 seconds then shut it off and wait 3-5 minutes.  Check the stick and it should read on the money.  Works every time on my 2019 old body 5.3.    

I imagine when the oil gets darker it will be easier to see if it overfilled.  The cross hatches work well to retain a good reading following the steps you have suggested.  The cable itself does a poor job.   My concern is escalated by the fact that the cross hatches all fill even when I don't fully insert the dipstick (approx 1/2" out).  The traditional blade style  (like the transmission dipstick) would suit my needs nicely if available. 

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1 hour ago, KARNUT said:

I question not going to the dealer. 

It is often more convenient and less expensive to go elsewhere for some services and products.   An oil change is pretty basic and usually easy to check to see if done correctly.  

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42 minutes ago, Donstar said:

It is often more convenient and less expensive to go elsewhere for some services and products.   An oil change is pretty basic and usually easy to check to see if done correctly.  

I have a shop that I used for 40 years for exhaust work. He also worked on my classic cars. When I have them. You usually had to make an appointment, sometimes 2 weeks out. He didn’t have time for oil changes. Doesn’t do them. I did my own on those. I can’t believe I’m the only one that gets coupons for cheaper oil changes at the dealer. At the worst the same price at a jiffy lube. I guess my corner of the world is unique. 

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1 hour ago, diyer2 said:

I question going to the dealer for service. Any shop can perform service. This is a personal choice. 

Ok think about this. The dealer has a young dedicated oil maintenance person . He probably does several oil changes a day that’s all they do. They have a dedicated place to do it. Its usually that brand exclusively. Now a good mechanic shop has spit labor mechanics. Meaning their mechanics get 60 plus dollars per hour. More if their going book hours and they’re fast. So in comes anybody with any type vehicle for an oil change. Chances are if they do it they get the oil and filter from a parts store delivered. If they have a bay who does it? The 10$ an hour guy who sweeps up. Not the 60$ plus per hour guy who just finished a brake job. If they have time to do the oil change how good are they if they’re not busy. Kinda like going to a restaurant at 5:00 at night and the lot is empty, I ain’t eating there. Jiffy lube is probably better than that. Me I’ll take the dealer. 

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For me it isn't to bad to read.  I just wipe it dry and when I pull it out I make sure to keep it down so the oil doesn't run up the stick making it look higher than what it really is.  I just look for the difference in shinny and dual if that makes sense.

 

My Cruze diesel isn't to hard to read since as soon as you start it up, new fresh diesel oil gets black pretty much instantly. :)

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Don't know why I did not give this a thought before. I traded dipsticks around on the five I have on the property. I noted the one most difficult to read was the one in the wife's Terrain. Swapped the the one from her Buick I read it perfectly. (same motor). The difference seems to be some sort of coating or oxidation of the bullet that is gone on the original. So it doesn't wet properly. I will order and new one. 

 

Tried the blade type from my 3800 in the Buick. Yet it will not pass through the tube. A bend or obstruction perhaps. I tried a few weeks ago to make a dipstick. Which worked...once and due to some obstruction or bend...bent. Lovely engineering. 

 

I expect it may be the coating that makes it readable :dunno:

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On 10/18/2021 at 10:50 AM, KARNUT said:

I question not going to the dealer. I have 3 over 10 year old vehicles that only been serviced at the dealership. An 05 Elantra, 01 Acura, 11 Genesis. My 15 Honda and 17 Toyota. According to the documents in my 02 Avalanche I bought used the same. I actually bought it at that servicing dealership. I get coupons from most of those dealers for discounts on oil changes, brake jobs, batteries and lately tires. They can never say the last place messed up my ride. I do work on my Avalanche myself. It’s very easy. The rest there’s no joy in it. Off to the dealership they go.

My 17 impala oil drain plug was left loose, lost two quarts in my garage floor. Talk to the Service manager he kept telling me to drive it back 45 miles and they would redo the oil change. I told him absolutely not, it's 2 quarts low on oil and the drain  plug is loose and it will mostly likely fall out and I would end up blowing the motor. Again the Service manager could not understand why a engine low on oil with a loose oil drain plug should not be drove another 45 miles. I told him I'll redo the oil change correctly and my car will never come to that dealer again. This was victory chevrolet in charlotte. 

 

Different dealer my older impala was in randy marion chevrolet in mooresville nc to have the instrument cluster replaced, I got car back and no interior lights would would they refused to fix it. So I will never spend a penny there again.

 

Most dealers treat me and my vehicles like crap. I do all my own maintenance.

Edited by Adamace1
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28 minutes ago, Adamace1 said:

My 17 impala oil drain plug was left loose, lost two quarts in my garage floor. Talk to the Service manager he kept telling me to drive it back 45 miles and they would redo the oil change. I told him absolutely not, it's 2 quarts low on oil and the drain  plug is loose and it will mostly likely fall out and I would end up blowing the motor. Again the Service manager could not understand why a engine low on oil with a loose oil drain plug should not be drove another 45 miles. I told him I'll redo the oil change correctly and my car will never come to that dealer again. This was victory chevrolet in charlotte. 

 

Different dealer my older impala was in randy marion chevrolet in mooresville nc to have the instrument cluster replaced, I got car back and no interior lights would would they refused to fix it. So I will never spend a penny there again.

 

Most dealers treat me and my vehicles like crap. I do all my own maintenance.

Iv used 5 dealerships in my area in 40 years. One owner has 3. One of those is Ford. I quit buying Fords because of that dealer. There’re humans doing the service. There’s bad humans. I would have tightened the plug added fluid with pictures and took it back. It just takes a second to check their  work. I do that. If they didn’t give you free stuff, then I would have left.

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11 hours ago, KARNUT said:

Iv used 5 dealerships in my area in 40 years. One owner has 3. One of those is Ford. I quit buying Fords because of that dealer. There’re humans doing the service. There’s bad humans. I would have tightened the plug added fluid with pictures and took it back. It just takes a second to check their  work. I do that. If they didn’t give you free stuff, then I would have left.

Again if the service manager was to stupid to comprehend why I was refusing to drive my car 45 miles two quarts on oil, with a loose oil plug, I will not let them touch my car again, and it's not the 60k a year service manager doing the work I'd a 25k a year kid. They refused to come to me to fix my car because it was not road worthy low on oil and with a drain plug two turns until it fell out. They couldn't/ wouldn't do the right thing, so since then I have bought  a 45k blazer, and a 52k silverado from other dealers. I still won't being my vehicles into " victory chevrolet dealership ever again, not even to fill a tire with air and will never buy anything from them again. Owner would not speak to me about my concerns. Guess he's got to much money to waste 5 minutes of his time to fix a simple problems and keep a customer for life. I'm not. In the millionaire club, he wouldn't even write a email back to me And I was very polite in the emails I wrote to them. Once you buy a car and sing the papers victory chevrolet/ Randy Marion chevrolet don't give a crap about you, your just a poor dumb worthless person to them and their employees. It's sad to see the Chevrolet name get tarnished buy such poor excuses for a dealership.

 

If a few others chevrolet dealerships keep treating me like this, I will just move to Toyota. The ball is in chevrolet court. Filling out the survey with low scores just gets a dealer mad at you. It's a screwed up system. But I like chevrolet, would like to keep buying them, have bought 8 brand new chevys, was trying to support an American company, but now alot are made in Mexico, for 3 bucks an hour. And dealerships treat me like crap. Toyota tundra designed in America,/ built in America is sounding better and better each day. I might not have to bring KY Jelly with me when I need service too.

Edited by Adamace1
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