Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hope someone can help me troubleshoot it. 

2020 Tahoe LS with 5.3, 6-speed, 31K miles. I have tried Exxon, Mobil, BP, Shell 87 gas. On 87 and often on 89 truck pings on highway trips, I am cruising 65-70 MPH, engine is always hovering around 1800-2000 and when I am trying to maintain the speed or add just a bit of throttle uphill it pings for 1-2 secs and then it downshifts and no pinging in the lower gear but once again at 70 MPH crusing around 1900 RPMs, if I am to touch the throttle it would ping/lug. 

With 89 it happens less, with 93 no pinging. I run Mobil 1 EP, Shell Gas Truck,  Valvoline Modern Engine oil with the AC Delco filter. Change oil every 4500 miles.

Dealer, of course, " cannot reproduce the issue". This truck is designed to run 87 fine and many many on these forum run 87 with zero knock issues, in my case, unless I run 93 it pings. Pinging is bad, thus what can I do to get the dealer/GM to accept the issue and fix it? With gas prices at $4.50 for 93 grade, it is now very noticeable to fill up as Regular vs. Premium is $1+ spread. Appreciate thoughts.

 

Here are the logs from September for Knock ****** events. The CSV file is here as well Driving Logs with Knock events

 

 

knock_1.thumb.png.d4c6de13ac5920ccb3fc597d63796896.png

 

knock_throttle_position.thumb.png.f74383ed32e4b6c6fc0f9e9f8019e415.png

total_knock.png

Edited by dvzzz
  • Like 1
Posted

Are you getting codes? It is pretty common for these trucks to ping on 87 from what I have read

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 minute ago, shakenfake said:

Are you getting codes? It is pretty common for these trucks to ping on 87 from what I have read

 

No codes ever, not even short-term. What concerns me that it pings even on 89 sometimes. 

Posted

They all do it, just don't let it lug. Press the throttle down a bit further to get that down shift, or drop it into L. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
9 minutes ago, M1ck3y said:

They all do it, just don't let it lug. Press the throttle down a bit further to get that down shift, or drop it into L. 

Understood. The most annoying part that it happens at the exact crusing RPM and if I tip in to maintain speed it happens almost all the time, to avoid it I have to press harder to downshift breaking the cruising. 

Posted
54 minutes ago, dvzzz said:

Understood. The most annoying part that it happens at the exact crusing RPM and if I tip in to maintain speed it happens almost all the time, to avoid it I have to press harder to downshift breaking the cruising. 

 

Can you hear the knock?

 

I know mine doesn't like hills... Over time I trained myself to listen for it so I know whether to give it throttle, back off, or initiate a downshift.

 

Not easy with the injector sound. It will usually feel a little different under knock too. This is on 94.

 

I think there's the people that are aware and change their driving style to accomadate the knock. Then there's the people that don't know the difference and just drive it. 

 

Hard to say who's doing it right.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
9 minutes ago, M1ck3y said:

 

Can you hear the knock?

 

I know mine doesn't like hills... Over time I trained myself to listen for it so I know whether to give it throttle, back off, or initiate a downshift.

 

Not easy with the injector sound. It will usually feel a little different under knock too. This is on 94.

 

I think there's the people that are aware and change their driving style to accomadate the knock. Then there's the people that don't know the difference and just drive it. 

 

Hard to say who's doing it right.

 

Indeed, I can hear it, I pay attention to my truck, in fact too much attention, I baby this machine, perhaps better to gun it down and drive like a maniac 😄 that will keep the plugs clean, IVD burnt off and oil pressure up. 

 

It is very irrational that I like GM products, my Yukon was a Lemon, this one it generally OK, some rattles and pinging. These full size trucks do drive nicely on highways and they are SO quiet that I can hear pinging very clearly.

 

Edited by dvzzz
Posted

I hear something too and I even run E85 50% of the year, the logs from HP Tuners rarely show knock.

 

Doesn't really bother me though, it's fine. I put money on the injectors and high pressure fuel pump near the firewall. I also think there was some sort of TSB for noise coming in through the power steering boot on the firewall.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

You could try a "reset", clear memory by disconnecting the batt. over night then drive it around till operating temp., then try to duplicate.  Also, with a tuner possibly you could change the "Tip in" timing curve, to help that, but of course not sure if a small change is able with say a HP Tuner. I have an 18 Rado L83, but I choose to run 93 cause Buc-ees station here has CHEAP 93, 40 to 60 cents cheaper than anybody else.

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

Its low mileage but do you have any oil consumption?

Plugs look OK?

Compression good?

 

Id try a can of seafoam through the intake to clear up the valvetrain. I wonder if there isn't some coking on the valves, carbon dropping into the cycling causing pre-ignition.

Edited by 14burrito
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
39 minutes ago, 14burrito said:

Its low mileage but do you have any oil consumption?

Plugs look OK?

Compression good?

 

Id try a can of seafoam through the intake to clear up the valvetrain. I wonder if there isn't some coking on the valves, carbon dropping into the cycling causing pre-ignition.

Good points and:

1) catch can from day 1 and it does catch but not water or milky stuff but oil with some fuel in it

2) plugs look OK

3) it consumes with Mobil 1 EP but not more than 1/3 of a quart over 4500 miles and zero consumption with Rotella Gas Truck

4) CRC Intake Valve cleaner was run through the intake

4) did not check the compression 

Edited by dvzzz
  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Good time of day-

the graph below shows both spark timing advance and total knock retards. Are these timing advances normal?

 

 

Screen Shot 2021-11-18 at 20.45.32.png

Posted

Your ECU can not measure octane. It is always looking for the incipient detonation point where fuel efficiency is peaked. So as anything looking for the edge it steps off the curb now and again. It's also a 'learning' system. You will notice that when you run 87 for several tanks it will find a 'base line' and will still step over. However if you then run a few tanks of 93 then go back to 87 the number of ****** events will be much higher until it again finds your new constant. It will never get perfect unless you pull timing from the map. Some hand held canned tunes call this an 87 tune. 

 

It's quite normal and not destructive. 

  • Like 1
Posted

@Grumpy Bear thank you. I found one interesting fact today while trying to troubleshoot.

 I just went for a long drive and logged again. While logs shows few KR events, up to 4 degrees. There was no audible pinging, same tank of fuel, same load, same route. What was different - the outside temperature, it is finally cold in NC, outside temp was ~42. I could not hear a single pinging event, before it was very audible almost all the time. What sensors might be to blame here? I thought maybe active shutters on Tahoe do not open fully but temp gauge does not show overheating ever. Is MAF also a temp sensor?

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, dvzzz said:

@Grumpy Bear thank you. I found one interesting fact today while trying to troubleshoot.

 I just went for a long drive and logged again. While logs shows few KR events, up to 4 degrees. There was no audible pinging, same tank of fuel, same load, same route. What was different - the outside temperature, it is finally cold in NC, outside temp was ~42. I could not hear a single pinging event, before it was very audible almost all the time. What sensors might be to blame here? I thought maybe active shutters on Tahoe do not open fully but temp gauge does not show overheating ever. Is MAF also a temp sensor?

A short movie to watch if you can not find anything on Netflix:

 

 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...