Jump to content

Warning on holding brake while pressing gas pedal - damages steering?

Another JR
 Share

Recommended Posts

Another JR Senior Enthusiast

Another JR

Posted
Posted

Saw this warning in the owners manual for my 3500hd:

 


   { Warning
 Do not hold the brake pedal and press the accelerator pedal at the same time. Damage may occur to the power steering and power brake systems which could lead to reduced performance, up to and including loss of steering and brake assist.
 

 

Not that I do that when I drive, other than briefly on a steep hill start maybe, but does anyone know how the steering
system would be damaged by this?

 

Random Enthusiast

Random

Posted
Posted

I must have skipped over that part when I was looking through my manual, but it's really in there. If I were to hazard a guess, it's probably related to the variable steering on the higher level trims. Pressing the brake and throttle at the same time probably is a confusing thing for a system that trying to adjust based upon how you're driving.

KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted

Hummm, times have changed. The only thing back in the day that potentially wore out doing that in moderation  was the back tires. 

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, Another JR said:

Saw this warning in the owners manual for my 3500hd:

 


   { Warning
 Do not hold the brake pedal and press the accelerator pedal at the same time. Damage may occur to the power steering and power brake systems which could lead to reduced performance, up to and including loss of steering and brake assist.
 

 

Not that I do that when I drive, other than briefly on a steep hill start maybe, but does anyone know how the steering
system would be damaged by this?

 

 

 

 

Hydroboost.  Brake assist is provided via the power steering pump/hydraulic pressure.  It could be a scenario of over-pressurization of the booster or the ps pump and all of the hoses.  

  • Thanks 1
Random Enthusiast

Random

Posted
Posted

Same warning doesn't show up in the 2020 user manual, so I'm guessing it's a problem discovered before releasing the 2021's.

sheath Enthusiast

sheath

Posted
Posted

Thanks for bringing this up.  :cheers:

I use the brakes and throttle together off-road to load the suspension and get through difficult rocky situations with limited tire slip. 

Will need to look into this, as it's pretty important for me.  Funny the Dodge has hydroboost, but I've not had this issue, and I've run it through some pretty long rock stretches.  Will look into why it's an issue for the GM.  Maybe it will be simple, like adding an external cooler package (fingers crossed). 

Keith_Schumaker Enthusiast

Keith_Schumaker

Posted
Posted

I had a few funny thing happen when pulling out in my 21.  Mostly involving when I am sitting on a hill and I start on the gas pedal before I let off the brake,  the antilock brake system goes nuts and you hear the typical abs grinding noise as soon as the truck starts moving.  My truck also went nuts the one morning when I had to use the rumble strips for a bit because a tractor trailer wasn't paying too much attention to what he was doing.  The dash looked like a christmas tree with all the traction control and abs lights on and it wouldn't let me use cruise control until I shut the truck off.  I think GM puts the warning there to cover up their electrical gremlins.

  • 2 weeks later...
Stand By Enthusiast

Stand By

Posted
Posted

Hmmm. What would be the point of owning a truck then? That's a known tactic for gaining traction when on a boat ramp, an icy grade, stuck in mud, snow or sand. Im guessing my custom isn't an issue with this warning? I did get hun up in the sand once. Rocking the truck with wheels turned sharp got me into traction control errors and a service light. Fortunately after I got onto the road it reset itself after a short drive. Was worried I was gonna have to hit the dealer to clear a code 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...