Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Well I'm old school and checking oil on any motor is standard operating procedure in my book. So your logic makes no sense to me. Buy hey you roll the way you want. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2
Posted
51 minutes ago, johnnyquick said:

obviously you should not need to unless you saw a leak on a newer vehicle like this.

I expect some smart comment but this is not 1978 and this truck should not be using this much oil, THAT is why NHTSB is investigating GM.

HOWEVER I will say that once you realize GM makes crappy A**ed engines that use oil like a 1947 Packard then you should start checking it..lol

Mine WAS drinking oil like crazy until I did a flush and switched my grade to 10-30 as opposed to 0-20w and use only HIGHER quality oil than the idiots at the dealer put in.

Buying another brand next time unless we get the Escalade V with the handbuilt ZR-1 engine.

Cheers

Who runs 0w20 in this truck? Yikes. It’s spec’ed for 5w30

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 1
Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Pryme said:

Who runs 0w20 in this truck? Yikes. It’s spec’ed for 5w30

I will say I am confused by that statement as well but that got me wondering as per Lundimpacts potential oil consumption issue. More facts need to be known to really nail down if the engine is in fact using oil. There are various scenarios that could have hidden the issue until now or if the issue just happened recently to cause excess use of oil ( again if in fact its actually using oil )

 

Facts like were the prior oil changes since the vehicle was bought used, monitored for level right from the point the oil was changed and let sit for hours on a level surface ( preferably the same spot each time the oil was checked ) before checking and that the engine oil was at the full mark right after the oil change service was done. And then tracked along the way in periodic checks of the level.

 

Was it for certain that the correct oil viscosity was put into the engine on this last oil change and again was it confirmed to be full at the start of this last fresh oil change. A thinner viscosity oil accidentally used could make that difference or perhaps even a different brand of oil. Also who is to say it was at the full mark at the beginning of this oil change if it was not checked to confirm a shops work if it was a shop that performed the service.

 

Also going back to a prior oil change, its always possible it was over filled or driven differently at that time and it used less oil or had more oil in it to begin with and why it never triggered the low oil level warning.

 

In typing this out and thinking about it, its no wonder I prefer to do my own oil changes on equipment as then I know for sure what oil went into it and at what level it was at that point, and then checking it regularly on the same or level spot to know all the way through to the point of needing to do the next oil change, as to how much oil the engine is consuming. But basically my comments go back to the basics of what diyer2 said, making it a standard practice to check the oil level regularly rather than depending on a shop or make assumptions the oil level "should" not drop. Of course GM came out with the cover their butt statement about how this engine in their mind is acceptable to use a quart of oil every 1000 miles/ per 100 gallons of fuel as I imagine has been said a few times in this thread or the forum. Also a shop is not even going to know the oil level is dropping unless the vehicle owner says something as shops just drop the oil if that is what its coming in for and they have no idea where the level was before they did the oil change because the shop is only concerned about getting the service done as fast as possible. Of course it would be different only if a vehicle was on warranty and its a dealership going through the motions of changing the oil and keeping track of how much its consuming.

Edited by Chuck FB
  • Like 1
Posted

Yup I'm still here, watching and waiting. I keep meticulous records of maintenance and gas mileage and ONLY have oil consumption when towing. My travel trailer is not heavy but does catch the wind like a sail and makes this engine work. Still, even under a heavy load I didn't expect this but not much I can do at this point. Currently at 59,453 miles and no other major issues. Just towed my camper over the weekend at was getting 4mpg at 71MPH driving into the wind. Really sucks 😞

  • Like 3
Posted
21 minutes ago, Truston Gunter said:

Yup I'm still here, watching and waiting. I keep meticulous records of maintenance and gas mileage and ONLY have oil consumption when towing. My travel trailer is not heavy but does catch the wind like a sail and makes this engine work. Still, even under a heavy load I didn't expect this but not much I can do at this point. Currently at 59,453 miles and no other major issues. Just towed my camper over the weekend at was getting 4mpg at 71MPH driving into the wind. Really sucks 😞

I am curious as to what typical miles you put on an oil change interval as well as the brand ( and named type of oil and viscosity within the brand ) you are currently using. Put another way, if you have shortened the oil change distance and tried other brands of oil to see if they respond similarly with the oil use pattern ?. 

 

Also have you noticed if the oil use ramps up higher for a given distance in the second half of the miles accumulated within the oil change period. I know myself with various engines over the years in vehicles or equipment, the oil level would often maintain well for the first number of miles or hours in a sound engine and then it started to ramp up in usage and use a marked increase in oil in the later part of the time/distance the oil was in use. Basically like the oil and additive package was being used up and with that I speculated some oil sheering as well.

Posted

FWIW

My truck started burning oil at about a yr old, 25-30,000 mi. And yes it was about what the ridiculous GM spec says, 1 quart / 1000 mi.
 

Was always using cheap oil and filter. After reading you guys argue oil and then talking to my mechanic friend, started on M1 oil and filter, and reduced down to 4000 interval. Never burned oil again. 65,000 mi now.

  • Like 4
Posted

I have been running GM D1G3 labeled full syn since new and at 10,000 miles just got back from a 4000 mile trip with about 60% of those miles pulling a 5tth wheel and hauling 13000# 

I added about 8 ounces to top it off while arguably towards the top of the full mark. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Yes, my fault on lack of detail. 99k Saturday morning on the odo when message flashed. 

 

I change my own oil and keep detailed records. Last change was 7.5 qts out, 8 qts in. Kirkland 5w-30 full synthetic, Delco pf63 filter. No leaks anywhere. 

 

Was cold here and I probably spent more time idling in the last 2 months than I normally do, however nothing excessive or abnormal for a truck that is intended for use in a fleet/ work application. In January I towed 2 snowmobiles 500 miles round trip, which is something we could do with a car so not overworking the thing by any means. 

 

Taking a road trip from western wi to Fargo in a few weeks, going to change oil immediately before and monitor. Same at the end of April driving to Chicago (maybe it'll get stolen there and spare me the pain of more troubleshooting lol)

  • Like 2
Posted
13 hours ago, Chuck FB said:

I am curious as to what typical miles you put on an oil change interval as well as the brand ( and named type of oil and viscosity within the brand ) you are currently using. Put another way, if you have shortened the oil change distance and tried other brands of oil to see if they respond similarly with the oil use pattern ?. 

 

Also have you noticed if the oil use ramps up higher for a given distance in the second half of the miles accumulated within the oil change period. I know myself with various engines over the years in vehicles or equipment, the oil level would often maintain well for the first number of miles or hours in a sound engine and then it started to ramp up in usage and use a marked increase in oil in the later part of the time/distance the oil was in use. Basically like the oil and additive package was being used up and with that I speculated some oil sheering as well.

I have always used Mobile 1 full synthetic and a mobile 1 filter. here is a screen shot of my maintenance log and fuel log for reference. 

fuel log.png

maintenance log.png

  • Like 2
Posted
30 minutes ago, Truston Gunter said:

I have always used Mobile 1 full synthetic and a mobile 1 filter. here is a screen shot of my maintenance log and fuel log for reference. 

fuel log.png

maintenance log.png

How often do you service the oiled air filter?  You show not ever servicing it. If its not oiled but changed or cleaned how often serviced? 

 

Posted
50 minutes ago, Truston Gunter said:

I have always used Mobile 1 full synthetic and a mobile 1 filter. here is a screen shot of my maintenance log and fuel log for reference. 

fuel log.png

maintenance log.png

That is excellent information and as I see customboss was also wondering about the servicing of the k&n filter, I used to run one in a truck of a dated vintage that had no air flow MAP or MAF sensor and still own the truck and I did service the filter regularly. However for a few reasons I came to the conclusion that it was probably in the "new" engines best interest not to run one and go back to the dry filter element and I took that nice pricey k&n and threw it in the garbage. Having said that I don't mean to shock you by that comment but I have my own reservations about the filter and I certainly won't be putting one into my new truck.

 

Ok so my own personal thoughts ( and no I am not a mechanic ), I'll put it this way with your truck with my line of thinking and lets hypothetically say that you sold me your truck and you had told me its history. Knowing that direct injection engines seem to be even more prone to fuel dilution issues, I would start out by using the same brand oil but change it at 3000 mile intervals and grab a sample of oil at that time to send off to see what the fuel dilution number looks like as well as whatever else it might tell me like sheered viscosity ( or if fuel dilution lowered it ) and so on. I would take the k&n and set that aside and put the factory dry filter in but also get at the MAF sensor and clean or replace it and clean out the filter oil if any within the intake tract ( although probably the factory box would go back in to fit a factory filter ). I would run some techron fuel injector cleaner through it at intervals to help clean the injectors to give the best spray pattern they are able to produce.

Posted
2 hours ago, lundimpact1775 said:

Yes, my fault on lack of detail. 99k Saturday morning on the odo when message flashed. 

 

I change my own oil and keep detailed records. Last change was 7.5 qts out, 8 qts in. Kirkland 5w-30 full synthetic, Delco pf63 filter. No leaks anywhere. 

 

Was cold here and I probably spent more time idling in the last 2 months than I normally do, however nothing excessive or abnormal for a truck that is intended for use in a fleet/ work application. In January I towed 2 snowmobiles 500 miles round trip, which is something we could do with a car so not overworking the thing by any means. 

 

Taking a road trip from western wi to Fargo in a few weeks, going to change oil immediately before and monitor. Same at the end of April driving to Chicago (maybe it'll get stolen there and spare me the pain of more troubleshooting lol)

As to the last point. lol. But criminals don’t like trucks that burn oil so you are probably good haha. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,873 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...