Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2021 6.2 Denali and am seriously interested in boosting it. I live in Northern California and want to know some relatively close and very reputable shops to get this done. I’m willing to travel out of state too but don’t want to drive 3 days to get there… any recommendations and if possible some feedback from someone who has done the S/C mod? I did a TRD S/C on my 2014 tundra back in the day and that was the best bang for the buck hands down. Hoping the same for this truck…

Posted
1 hour ago, David Lampkins said:

I have a 2021 6.2 Denali and am seriously interested in boosting it. I live in Northern California and want to know some relatively close and very reputable shops to get this done. I’m willing to travel out of state too but don’t want to drive 3 days to get there… any recommendations and if possible some feedback from someone who has done the S/C mod? I did a TRD S/C on my 2014 tundra back in the day and that was the best bang for the buck hands down. Hoping the same for this truck…


https://whipplesuperchargers.com

 

I have never personally used them but know people who have and were pleased with them.

Posted

I would drive down to Whipple.  I have their unit on my 21 HC 6.2 and it’s awesome!

Posted
26 minutes ago, AEmedic said:

I would drive down to Whipple.  I have their unit on my 21 HC 6.2 and it’s awesome!

That’s good to hear! Did you have them install it and what supporting mods did you do? I know tune is a must and intake and exhaust but anything else? What were you final dyno numbers and 0-60/ quarter mile times if you did it. I am about an hour and 20 minutes north of Fresno so I might be taking a trip down there tomorrow 😃

Posted

I was always curious about this so following.  

 

Do you have to change any critical parts like bottom end parts or valvetrain parts or drivetrain parts to handle the boost?

Posted
1 hour ago, Anon12345 said:

I was always curious about this so following.  

 

Do you have to change any critical parts like bottom end parts or valvetrain parts or drivetrain parts to handle the boost?

When I did the TRD S/C on my Tundra it was installed by the dealership and the only supporting mods were intake and exhaust and tune. I’m assuming it’s the same with the Sierra… However, I would love to do some internals but it might require transmission upgrades. If it is 650 ish at the crank that is respectable. I saw that Hennessey has a Goliath 700 and 800 kit but I don’t want to drop $30k into that. 

Posted (edited)

I think Whipple is your only option because they have it CARB legal.

 

Whipple kits are designed to be plug and play. You don't need an intake or exhaust work at all for them to function. You are limited on how much boost you can run though. Can't really swap to a smaller pulley if the fuel system can't handle it.

Edited by CamGTP
Posted
11 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

I think Whipple is your only option because they have it CARB legal.

 

Whipple kits are designed to be plug and play. You don't need an intake or exhaust work at all for them to function. You are limited on how much boost you can run though. Can't really swap to a smaller pulley if the fuel system can't handle it.

 

Do whipple kits void warranty?

  • Haha 1
Posted (edited)

Yes. It's an engine modification as well as putting in an unlocked factory computer. My thought is that it just voids the power train warranty. It would still have the bumper to bumper stuff for the 3/36,000m on the body/interior etc etc.

Edited by CamGTP
Posted
3 hours ago, Anon12345 said:

 

Do whipple kits void warranty?

I did notice Whipple has an option to purchase a three-year 36,000 mile warranty for $650. It looks like it keeps the original three-year 36,000 mile warranty intact for the drivetrain. But in doing these mods I know the risk that I’m taking in voiding warranty past that. Still curious what some real world performance numbers are. 

Posted

I have a buddy that has a 5.3L 2018 Elevation and he has a whipple kit on it! It's incredible. AFAIK all he did was add a exhaust and some suspension mods thats about it. But he complains at his 10MPG/Gal & being that their Canadian $$ for the gas is insane!!

 

 

Posted
On 4/17/2022 at 11:48 AM, AEmedic said:

I would drive down to Whipple.  I have their unit on my 21 HC 6.2 and it’s awesome!

What kind of MPG are you averaging after the S/C?

Posted
On 4/17/2022 at 8:21 AM, David Lampkins said:

I have a 2021 6.2 Denali and am seriously interested in boosting it. I live in Northern California and want to know some relatively close and very reputable shops to get this done. I’m willing to travel out of state too but don’t want to drive 3 days to get there… any recommendations and if possible some feedback from someone who has done the S/C mod? I did a TRD S/C on my 2014 tundra back in the day and that was the best bang for the buck hands down. Hoping the same for this truck…

Reach out to @CajunFriesHe is running a SC on the 5.3 in his 18, and is located in So Cal. He might know of a good shop. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 4/17/2022 at 8:21 AM, David Lampkins said:

I have a 2021 6.2 Denali and am seriously interested in boosting it. I live in Northern California and want to know some relatively close and very reputable shops to get this done. I’m willing to travel out of state too but don’t want to drive 3 days to get there… any recommendations and if possible some feedback from someone who has done the S/C mod? I did a TRD S/C on my 2014 tundra back in the day and that was the best bang for the buck hands down. Hoping the same for this truck…

NewEraPerformance is where I recommend. He is a straight up guy. He’ll tell you how it is not just want you wanna hear. His dyno also read really low so don’t get discouraged by that. I’m pumping out “560” on E60 for almost 2 years now and I beat the living snot out of my truck daily and it’s still holding strong. Engine and trans. 
 

Lmk if you have any other questions. 

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • HD at the moment, are kinda their own deal.  How LTZ sells on those vs on 1500, there is a difference.   They are merging most of the mid trims on 1500.  LT, RST and LTZ are replaced by one trim, Silverado.  LT and RST are a BIG portion of sales.    Bad naming choice aside, the new Silverado trim will offer the spread of options that those three trims offered.  So expect to see things like the tech package for example, and maybe memory seats.  And LT Trail Boss will now just be "Trail Boss" (formerly LT Trail Boss) but will offer content spread like the new Silverado trim will.  The press photos showed the Trail Boss (formerly LT Trail Boss) has access to Super Cruise now, which on the current truck was High Country only.        
    • I installed a Hellwig rear sway bar on my 21 Sierra SLT, it made a huge difference on how the truck handles, no body roll, the trucks much more planted now. Not sure of the suspension differences between the 21 and 26,  if its body roll your having a sway bar will solve it. 
    • So a follow up and my fix. I found in online searches the live data to look at on a scan tool to verify the fuel tank pressure sensor was working.  It showed an spec number towards the lower end of the rang, but in spec.  Then while it was running opened the gas cap and the pressure should change.  It didn't change even a tiny bit.  The data for the purge valve said it was open...never changed. So then I measured the voltages on the plug for the fuel pressure sensor and they matched what it should be.  So local car quest parts had the sensor in stock...it was a bit of a pain to remove and an even bigger one to get it to actually go back in.  It helped to unbolt the driveshaft and bungie cord away from the gas tank to give a bit more room to work. So fuel tank pressure sensor in I cleared the code, and started it up.  I went to the scan tool's live data and... Eureka! The pressure number was different and fluctuated a bit.  So took it on a short drive and pressure number varied saw the purge valve go from closed to open and back to closed.  Drove it to and from work for roughly a week plugged in the scan tool no codes.  I took it in to get tested and passed.  In my state's infinite wisdom (oops meant greed), since I pushed the test with the maximum extensions I have to take it back in by Feb '27 to 'get it back up to date', then my next test won't be until Feb '29. 
    • Any grease on the stud threads of any kind?   Wheel studs should have NOTHING on them for proper torquing and so the nuts don't back off.     Are all of the mating surfaces clean?  So wheel, rotor and hub?     We've had plenty of trucks at work with that wheel, this is a first to me.  Makes me think they've got a lube tech putting anti-seize on all the wheel studs or some kind of grease, and they need to stop doing that.  To have 11 other trucks with the same exact problem.      
    • I was a Chevy guy for years, then switched to GMC because I liked the looks better.  I'm actually thinking I like the Chevy looks better than GMC for the first time in a lot of years.   One thing I know for certain, the new GMC dash is hideous!  Chevy wins this one!  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...