Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi there. I've been reading upon forums and getting advice from people who have Sierras (2018).

 

I approved a quote that the shop locally is going to do. I have requested a 2" leveling kit to be added, and some people have recommend just adding bilstein 5100s and using them to raise the front of the truck to get close to level. Should I tell the shop to not do the leveling kit, and just add the bilsteins with the height adjusted to get close to level to the rear? Or should I have them both added? (Will that benefit?)

 

I am adding 285/55R/20 Falken Wildpeaks (AT3W) over the factory elevation rims and I'm excited for those. Just a little confused with my understanding about whats above.

Again, I've done mostly just research on this, I'm not a Truck/Car Mechanic, I prefer to hide by my desk in IT 😂

 

 

Posted

I know some aren’t going to like this but yes go with the 5100. Add some height and also plant your ride more. Get some for the back too 

Posted
4 minutes ago, f8l vnm said:

I know some aren’t going to like this but yes go with the 5100. Add some height and also plant your ride more. Get some for the back too 

Do I need a leveling kit? Does that even help it? or just tell the shop to do the 5100s and lift them from the front

Posted

If you have 5100s that are capable of adding lift to level the truck, Why would you set the 5100s at stock height and then add a leveling kit? (Which is presumably some spacers that are meant to go on the stock strut)

  • Haha 1
Posted

I used the 5100's set at +2" to the front of my 2022. increased the tires size from 275-60/20 to 275-65/20. Tires are an inch taller at 34" vs stock 33" The combo raised the front 2.5" and the rear 0.5".  Truck is perfectly level. The Body style for the 2019-2022 makes it look a little front high sometimes so I'm adding 1" rear blocks this week to give it just a little rake.

No other leveling kit was added (i.e. spacers) I think the shocks are the way to go for leveling and there is no need tor spacers unless you want to go higher. The pic is how it currently sits with out the rear blocks.

IMG_7437.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

Just go with the 5100s in front and back, no need for additional leveling.

  • Like 1
Posted

Appreciate gents. That's what I thought as well, didn't make sense for me. @Dirk13 But I called up the shop, and stated that I wanted to remove the leveling kit, and just do the bilsteins, adjust the front to be as close to as level as possible with the rear.

 

The installation date is tomorrow. @pepe48134 your picture in another post inspired me to add them as well. I'm wrapping them are 285/55R/20 Falken WildPeaks AT3/W. It should look pretty spot on. I've already taken before photos as it sits.

Posted

Should you still do new UCA's with the shock based "lift" to avoid UCA failure like we see with many level kits when people don't replace the factory UCA's?   I'm guessing not since all it's doing is adding spring preload stiffening the ride to get the extra height as opposed to a spacer lift. 

Posted

For me rule of thumb is the most you want to go is about 2.25 without starting to stress things out. Maybe even 2.5 but thats it. 

Posted
On 7/6/2022 at 3:55 PM, todd308 said:

Should you still do new UCA's with the shock based "lift" to avoid UCA failure like we see with many level kits when people don't replace the factory UCA's?   I'm guessing not since all it's doing is adding spring preload stiffening the ride to get the extra height as opposed to a spacer lift. 

It doesn't stiffen the ride at all the springs are liner rate. This is what the trail boss (2" factory Lift front and back) does and they use the same UCA's

Posted (edited)

Just wanted to thank everyone! I went withIMG_2472.thumb.jpg.a6df1ae96144793f7462bb6ced0a49f0.jpg the bilsteins and new tires. And it rides great and looks amazing. 

 

The extra lift in the front makes a huge difference. Thank god this actually feels like a truck now! 

Edited by ESierra
  • Like 1
Posted
On 7/7/2022 at 5:20 PM, pepe48134 said:

It doesn't stiffen the ride at all the springs are liner rate. This is what the trail boss (2" factory Lift front and back) does and they use the same UCA's

I don't think that's quite how it works, a linear rate spring only means the spring rate increases evenly throughout it's travel, it doesn't mean that the spring has the same force throughout it's travel. So if you crank up the preload and raise the front end height it's going to stiffen the ride.   The plus side is usually the aftermarket shocks (fox, billstein) are so much better than Rancho's no one notices, especially if you get the strut with the fox/bilstein matched springs.  This is why strut spacers tend to maintain a factory ride better than height adjustable struts.  That said, there are some other significant cons to spacers if your vehicle actually leaves the pavement and overall I'd say the adjustable height struts are a better option, of course they are also significantly more expensive, especially if you don't reuse the factory coil springs. 

 

This site does a very good job of breaking down the pros/cons of spacers -vs- height adjustable struts. 

 

https://www.shocksurplus.com/pages/lifted-and-leveling-struts-vs-strut-spacers

 

 

Posted
21 hours ago, todd308 said:

I don't think that's quite how it works, a linear rate spring only means the spring rate increases evenly throughout it's travel, it doesn't mean that the spring has the same force throughout it's travel. So if you crank up the preload and raise the front end height it's going to stiffen the ride.   The plus side is usually the aftermarket shocks (fox, billstein) are so much better than Rancho's no one notices, especially if you get the strut with the fox/bilstein matched springs.  This is why strut spacers tend to maintain a factory ride better than height adjustable struts.  That said, there are some other significant cons to spacers if your vehicle actually leaves the pavement and overall I'd say the adjustable height struts are a better option, of course they are also significantly more expensive, especially if you don't reuse the factory coil springs. 

 

This site does a very good job of breaking down the pros/cons of spacers -vs- height adjustable struts. 

 

https://www.shocksurplus.com/pages/lifted-and-leveling-struts-vs-strut-spacers

 

 

your correct the spring doesn't have the same force throughout its travel,and in theory increasing the preload will make it stiffer. However the bilsteins are designed for the lift and the ride is actually better than stock. The linear rate springs make it easier to deal with the preload vs progressive springs. THe other big pluss is the stock suspension travel is maintained with the height adjustable shocks vs spacers.

 

 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 7/4/2022 at 8:13 PM, pepe48134 said:

I used the 5100's set at +2" to the front of my 2022. increased the tires size from 275-60/20 to 275-65/20. Tires are an inch taller at 34" vs stock 33" The combo raised the front 2.5" and the rear 0.5".  Truck is perfectly level. The Body style for the 2019-2022 makes it look a little front high sometimes so I'm adding 1" rear blocks this week to give it just a little rake.

No other leveling kit was added (i.e. spacers) I think the shocks are the way to go for leveling and there is no need tor spacers unless you want to go higher. The pic is how it currently sits with out the rear blocks.

IMG_7437.jpg

Which part numbers did you use? I am looking to order some soon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,679
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Old Bay
    Newest Member
    Old Bay
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 924 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I know when I was looking around last year to see if someone handled Amsoil gear oil to buy at the retail level which of course means full price. I found an independent shop that works a lot on GM/Duramax pickups and they did not bring in the 75W-85 as they just stuck to the 75W-90 for the front and rear as a standard practice for the HD trucks which makes sense anyway for the higher hp/torque diesel and pulling heavy loads in four wheel drive. I haven't changed my diff oils yet but still plan on using the 75W-85 for the front diff as I highly doubt I will be beating on the truck and figured for my use type the bit thinner oil would be to my benefit for the winter for that slightly less drag. Very different weather here all winter vs northern Washington near the coast, that's for sure. 
    • Ok that confirms the extra quart theme they are still going with which must mean they have noted some initial use more so then some engines and probably the bigger factor in all of this probably isn't the engine so much as its the insane distance or OLM that lulls a lot of the driving public into driving their new vehicle off the lot and not even doing one short interval oil change because the manufacturer doesn't say different and if the dealer follows that logic as well. Selling the rarely needing to be serviced concept seems to go over well with the public that wants to get away with as little as possible for dollars spent on the vehicles maintenance and I bet there are 3.0 engines just like other vehicles out there that never have their oil checked by the owner which goes back to why they probably felt the need to add that extra quart to avoid a costly theme.    Speaking of cutting filters open, it was probably over two years ago now that a youtuber who buys vehicles to do longer term reviews and pulls a fifth wheel through the mountains of Colorado on summer trips and that becomes part of the testing. Anyway he had a GM HD with the 6.6 gas and a Ford 250 with the 7.3 gas at the same time and of no surprise the Ford had more power etc but somewhere along the way in the few thousand miles he put on the truck, he changed the oil and was seeing glitter and cut open the filter and yeah, things were not looking spectacular. The truck about that time or soon after seemed down on power compared to what it had been and then threw some engine code, I expect the cam/lifters were failing and so he brought the truck back to the dealer and made some deal to get out of it as he knew it would sit for months waiting on a new engine as they were so backlogged at the time. He kept the GM for some time after that using it exclusively until he sold it after buying his next vehicle to do a review on. Definitely the filter can tell a story when things are starting to go sideways, but it would be a sickening feeling to cut it open and be faced with an ugly mess like that and be running a magnet through the pleats and the oil on the dirty side of the filter and see all the fines sticking to the magnet.    The dealer may have some ideas based on experience as to where that coolant smell is coming from, I would imagine if they can't find it but its smelling they would put dye in it to they could give it a run cycle and use the black light to see where it pops up, if its a hose connection, water pump, rad or even a head gasket etc. 
    • Good looking truck, suspensionmaxx looks like a solid option
    • Thanks for the info, im considering a leveling kit or 4" lift kit.
    • charm.li (website) has the vehicle-specific diagnostic procedure for that code, you can use to find what the cause of it is.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...