Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 minute ago, mjonesjr84 said:

 

Would 2 ohm speakers in the rear door work? Probably. The OEM speakers are 4 ohm, so if you are going to replace them, why not go with 4 ohm so you have a wider variety of speakers?

I find the volume in the rears are low. Thinking 2 ohm speakers would be louder. Just thinking out loud.

Posted
On 9/16/2022 at 5:01 PM, mjonesjr84 said:

 

I didn't take any sound samples. It would be hard to tell on a cell phone video anyway.

 

I did do the doors. I did Kicker in there as well. I've got a pair of PowerBass 2ohm DVC 6x9's coming to see if the front doors sound better vs the 4 ohm Kickers. I've also got baffles coming as well for all the doors. That should make a difference as well since they have cones on them to get the sound directed towards the door panel grill instead of letting sound filter out behind the door panel.

 

The dash speakers had the + marked on them so it was just a matter of plugging the wire clip back in and seeing which wire was on the + side. I left enough wire on the factory plug so I could go back to it if I wanted to put the factory speakers back in.

 

The only down side to the bass blockers is the turn signal sound is quieter than without. I may take the blockers out to see what it sounds like without them.

You say the dash speakers were marked with +. Were the front and rear doors marked as well? Do you know the color for the + in front and rear?

Posted
4 minutes ago, mafd2 said:

You say the dash speakers were marked with +. Were the front and rear doors marked as well? Do you know the color for the + in front and rear?

The door speakers were not marked. However, if you get the wiring adapters for the 2019+ Silverado they will be set up properly. The small terminal in the wiring to the small terminal on the speaker (-) and the larger terminal on the wiring to the large terminal on the speaker (+).

Posted
1 hour ago, mjonesjr84 said:

The door speakers were not marked. However, if you get the wiring adapters for the 2019+ Silverado they will be set up properly. The small terminal in the wiring to the small terminal on the speaker (-) and the larger terminal on the wiring to the large terminal on the speaker (+).

Thanks. I didn't think they had adaptors for the Bose system speakers or is that just for the tweeters? 

Posted
7 hours ago, mafd2 said:

Thanks. I didn't think they had adaptors for the Bose system speakers or is that just for the tweeters? 

The wiring adapters are for both non-Bose and Bose. The wiring adapters don't care. There are no adapters for the tweeter.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
7 hours ago, AleksanderSuave said:

what made you choose Kicker as opposed to other choices like JL audio?

 

Cost. I wanted the best bang for the buck. If I wanted to put a little more money into the speakers, I would have went with the JL Audio. I also wanted a large dash speaker than what JL offered. Kicker has the 2.75" speaker for the dash were JL would only have been a 1".

Posted

First I did loud exhaust. Then I had to upgrade the sound system. 40 years later I can’t do loud my ears start buzzing. At least I can appreciate music at reasonable level with quality equipment. Led Zeppelin sounds different at medium volume.

Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, mjonesjr84 said:

 

Cost. I wanted the best bang for the buck. If I wanted to put a little more money into the speakers, I would have went with the JL Audio. I also wanted a large dash speaker than what JL offered. Kicker has the 2.75" speaker for the dash were JL would only have been a 1".

Yeah Im on the fence between the two myself right now.

 

I dont have the BOSE setup in my truck (LT Trim), but having worked on mutiple vehicles with BOSE in the past, it seems like speaker replacements always involved "dumbing down" the system to get it to work with aftermarket speakers or radio.

 

Oddly enough now, it looks like the JL Audio Kit  is cheaper than the Kicker kit is now, if you're doing door speakers in 6x9, tweeters, and rear door speakers. 


I was also lead to the conclusion that the JL Audio would sound better with an aftermarket amp, but in most instances, the Kicker setup would sound better (and louder) if keeping stock components.

I appreciate you mentioning that the wire adapters for the 2021 would work in the 22. They are an extra $10 per pair if bought solo, and I always prefer an install that is a no-cut  easily reversible option whenever possible.

Edited by AleksanderSuave
Posted
4 minutes ago, AleksanderSuave said:

Yeah Im on the fence between the two myself right now.

 

I dont have the BOSE setup in my truck (LT Trim), but having worked on mutiple vehicles with BOSE in the past, it seems like speaker replacements always involved "dumbing down" the system to get it to work with aftermarket speakers or radio.

 

Oddly enough now, it looks like the JL Audio Kit  is cheaper than the Kicker kit is now, if you're doing door speakers in 6x9, tweeters, and rear door speakers. 


I was also lead to the conclusion that the JL Audio would sound better with an aftermarket amp, but in most instances, the Kicker setup would sound better (and louder) if keeping stock components.

I appreciate you mentioning that the wire adapters for the 2021 would work in the 22. They are an extra $10 per pair if bought solo, and I always prefer an install that is a no-cut  easily reversible option whenever possible.

I have the Bose and it sucks compared to my wife's 2020 Equinox Bose setup. Her car will rattle the mirrors on my truck parked next to it in the garage. The Kicker speakers I went with are rated up to 150 watts RMS on the 6x9's. Eventually I am going to add a 5 channel amp and a small sub under the back seat. I've just not decided if I'm going to remove the Du-Ha storage and build a custom enclosure with the 8" sub in the middle and storage pockets on either end OR if I'm going to go with the Kicker powered sub and put it inside the Du-Ha storage and NOT do an amp for the door speakers.

Posted
2 minutes ago, Amylcar said:

I found this page and there are very interesting things https://lljcustoms.com/ but I am undecided

They make the best harness available to just plug into your factory harness. Theirs doesn't require any splicing at all to add an amp.

Posted

I am undecided, because my truck is an RST 2022 (new refreshes) and it has many different things in the electrical part according to gm

Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, mjonesjr84 said:

I have the Bose and it sucks compared to my wife's 2020 Equinox Bose setup. Her car will rattle the mirrors on my truck parked next to it in the garage. The Kicker speakers I went with are rated up to 150 watts RMS on the 6x9's. Eventually I am going to add a 5 channel amp and a small sub under the back seat. I've just not decided if I'm going to remove the Du-Ha storage and build a custom enclosure with the 8" sub in the middle and storage pockets on either end OR if I'm going to go with the Kicker powered sub and put it inside the Du-Ha storage and NOT do an amp for the door speakers.


I feel like Im talking to an old friend discussing the same stuff Im thinking about here.

I have a 2006 Porsche as my track and fun car. It took some work to update (modernize) Bose in it, I primarily  wanted apple car play, and even with the dumbing down filters, it sounds amazing.

I have the Duha box under my back seat too, and was thinking about the Kicker upgrade for the truck, and how to incorporate it into that, without losing tool/storage space.

Edited by AleksanderSuave
Posted
On 10/3/2022 at 1:10 PM, mjonesjr84 said:

I have the Bose and it sucks compared to my wife's 2020 Equinox Bose setup. Her car will rattle the mirrors on my truck parked next to it in the garage. The Kicker speakers I went with are rated up to 150 watts RMS on the 6x9's. Eventually I am going to add a 5 channel amp and a small sub under the back seat. I've just not decided if I'm going to remove the Du-Ha storage and build a custom enclosure with the 8" sub in the middle and storage pockets on either end OR if I'm going to go with the Kicker powered sub and put it inside the Du-Ha storage and NOT do an amp for the door speakers.

So I’m NOT losing my mind! I just traded my ‘19 SLT with the Bose system in for a ‘22 Denali with the Bose system. Driving home, listening to a song that would thump in my old truck, there was nothing. I am not a true audiophile, I just want it to sound better using stock components. I don’t even know if this system has a separate sub. In my old truck, I believe it was under the center console. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,980
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Fishboat
    Newest Member
    Fishboat
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 550 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hey guys, sorry for the confusison about this. This wasn't my experainnce, it was copied and pasted fom the net. 
    • The problem with failure rates or increase failures are there’s people who don’t have a problem. What are you doing wrong they say. We had 4 5.7 GM diesel’s in the family when they came out. One was flawless. My uncle who happened to be the most abusive. Early rotary engines were known to use oil. I abused my first car so bad in six months I replaced the clutch, transmission and rear end. It didn’t use oil. My brother in law has a 2013 Tahoe and an older Yukon. The Yukon has 280K miles. The Tahoe around 175K. He runs them to about 300K. If his lifters fail before that time he would consider it a failure. My Hondas, I know people hate it when I mention them. Identical engines. One with cylinder deactivation one doesn’t have it. One shudders when the eco light goes on or off. Cylinder deactivation. But wait! According to the web. It can happen with lock up too. So now people in the know are changing the oil and transmission fluid more often. Then you read it could be a programing issue. So what do you do? There’s lots of money involved. I see three ways to deal with it. One only works if you don’t drive lots of miles. Lease, never get out of warranty. Or only buy older vehicles with a good track record. They all have bad runs. Usually when there’s a change. Even Toyota and Honda. 
    • Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...