Jump to content

2022 RST Speaker Replacement

papasink
 Share

Recommended Posts

sclemmer Enthusiast

sclemmer

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, mjonesjr84 said:

I don't think the Silverado or the Sierra ever came with a 12 speaker Bose system in the T1 platform. They did have the option for a 7 speaker Bose which had the sub in the center console. 

 

The 2022 refresh trucks do not come with the sub in the center console.

My 2022 refresh AT4X has a 

  • 12-Speaker Bose® Premium Series with Centerpoint® Surround Sound
per the GMC site. Guess I'll crank it tonight and listen around the console.
  • Replies 98
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

mjonesjr84
mjonesjr84

The dash speakers are super easy in the refresh compared to the 19-21 trucks.   In my 2022 refresh with Bose, the front door speakers are 2 ohm while the dash and rear doors are 4 ohm. 

mafd2
mafd2

So, as being into home, vintage and car audio for a long time here's what I did to my 2022 Bose system.  I left the front door speakers in, replaced the front tweeters and rear door speakers.  The sys

mafd2
mafd2

Thanks man. Please take a few pics along the way.

Posted Images

mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, sclemmer said:

My 2022 refresh AT4X has a 

  • 12-Speaker Bose® Premium Series with Centerpoint® Surround Sound
per the GMC site. Guess I'll crank it tonight and listen around the console.

Must just be a AT4x and Denali Ultimate option.

mafd2 Senior Enthusiast

mafd2

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, mjonesjr84 said:

I don't think the Silverado or the Sierra ever came with a 12 speaker Bose system in the T1 platform. They did have the option for a 7 speaker Bose which had the sub in the center console. 

 

The 2022 refresh trucks do not come with the sub in the center console.

My refresh Z71 LTZ has the 7 speaker Bose (sub being 7th speaker).  It's code UQA Bose 7 speaker premium sound which is standard on the LTZ. This 7 speaker system is available with the RST and LT Trail Boss ONLY with convivence package II.  I have good bass from the center sub.

mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, mafd2 said:

My refresh Z71 LTZ has the 7 speaker Bose (sub being 7th speaker).  It's code UQA Bose 7 speaker premium sound which is standard on the LTZ. This 7 speaker system is available with the RST and LT Trail Boss ONLY with convivence package II.  I have good bass from the center sub.

Where is the sub located? I don't have 7 speakers on my refresh LTZ and I have the UQA code. I have almost zero base from the stock Bose system.

sclemmer Enthusiast

sclemmer

Posted
Posted

Confirmed that my AT4X does in fact have a sub in the console. It actually sounds pretty decent and “hits hard” for being Bose.

mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted
Just now, sclemmer said:

Confirmed that my AT4X does in fact have a sub in the console. It actually sounds pretty decent and “hits hard” for being Bose.

Must be a AT4x and Denali Ultimate package then. The other trucks do not have a sub.

mafd2 Senior Enthusiast

mafd2

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, mjonesjr84 said:

Where is the sub located? I don't have 7 speakers on my refresh LTZ and I have the UQA code. I have almost zero base from the stock Bose system.

Man I have plenty bass.  I'd say it's the center console because when my doors are open I still get good bass in the cab. If you have the UQA Bose then it's 7 speaker otherwise it's 6 speakers.  2 dash, 2 front and 2 rear doors.  The 7th is the subwoofer.  What sub model truck do you have?

mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted (edited)
5 minutes ago, mafd2 said:

Man I have plenty bass.  I'd say it's the center console because when my doors are open I still get good bass in the cab. If you have the UQA Bose then it's 7 speaker otherwise it's 6 speakers.  2 dash, 2 front and 2 rear doors.  The 7th is the subwoofer.  What sub model truck do you have?

I've got a LTZ. This picture is from scanning the QR code on my door jamb. There is no sub in my center console. I've had it apart and been under it. The Bose in my 2020 RST had a sub in the center console and sounded good. My 2020 Equinox does not have a sub but puts out excellent bass from the door speakers. The 7-speaker system (3 in the dash) in the Equinox has put done the 2021 AT4 I had and my current 2022 LTZ refresh.

 

The sound outside the truck is different from inside, before and after changing the speakers. I will generally roll the windows down and listen to the stereo from the truck if I'm working in the garage. It does sound different (better) outside than in.

Screenshot_20221005-205302_Samsung Notes.jpg

Edited by mjonesjr84
mafd2 Senior Enthusiast

mafd2

Posted
Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, AleksanderSuave said:


This seems like an easy solution, I found the tweeters on ebay for $110 from woofers ETC. 

The rears you mentioned (club 622) Im only seeing a 6.5" not 6 - 3/4".

Sounds like some adapters for the tweeters to fit in the dash, and adapters for the rears (plus wiring adapters), and I could be all in for $250 total.

Yes sorry meant 6.5" not 6.75.  I used metal back strap to mount my tweeters. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/161129065395

20221005_175853.jpg

Edited by mafd2
mafd2 Senior Enthusiast

mafd2

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, mjonesjr84 said:

I've got a LTZ. This picture is from scanning the QR code on my door jamb. There is no sub in my center console. I've had it apart and been under it. The Bose in my 2020 RST had a sub in the center console and sounded good. My 2020 Equinox does not have a sub but puts out excellent bass from the door speakers. The 7-speaker system (3 in the dash) in the Equinox has put done the 2021 AT4 I had and my current 2022 LTZ refresh.

 

The sound outside the truck is different from inside, before and after changing the speakers. I will generally roll the windows down and listen to the stereo from the truck if I'm working in the garage. It does sound different (better) outside than in.

Screenshot_20221005-205302_Samsung Notes.jpg

That's weird.  The 7 speaker UQA Bose is standard on the LTZ and there isn't a 3rd dash speaker.  I ordered mine in Dec. and the build date was March.  Wonder if they stopped putting them in? When was yours built?  Like Sclemmer said, mine hits pretty hard as well.  IDK.

mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted (edited)
2 minutes ago, mafd2 said:

That's weird.  The 7 speaker UQA Bose is standard on the LTZ and there isn't a 3rd dash speaker.  I ordered mine in Dec. and the build date was March.  Wonder if they stopped putting them in? When was yours built?  Like Sclemmer said, mine hits pretty hard as well.  IDK.

Mine was built in late March. I bought it in early April.

 

I'd like to see a picture of your sub, if one is installed. You can get under the center console pretty easily by pulling one of the side panels off it.

 

I've been in a couple HC's that sounded exactly like my LTZ audio wise.

Edited by mjonesjr84
AleksanderSuave Enthusiast

AleksanderSuave

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, mafd2 said:

Yes sorry meant 6.5" not 6.75.  I used metal back strap to mount my tweeters. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/161129065395

20221005_175853.jpg

It helps seeing whats underneath there in terms of working space.

 

 

I was half considering either A:

 

Replacing the factory dash speaker with the kicker option, and then trying to sneak a smaller tweeter  nearby it under the grill/mesh from the dash.

 

or B: still the 2 speaker replacement from above but drilling into the A pillar bottom to mount the tweeter.

 

still on the fence about doing coax vs. components at this point..Not too worried about wiring anymore, just trying to figure out best mounting options and higher volume and quality increase without having to install an amp. Not sure if Im overthinking it at this point.

Edited by AleksanderSuave
mafd2 Senior Enthusiast

mafd2

Posted
Posted
10 minutes ago, AleksanderSuave said:

It helps seeing whats underneath there in terms of working space.

 

 

I was half considering either A:

 

Replacing the factory dash speaker with the kicker option, and then trying to sneak a smaller tweeter  nearby it under the grill/mesh from the dash.

 

or B: still the 2 speaker replacement from above but drilling into the A pillar bottom to mount the tweeter.

 

still on the fence about doing coax vs. components at this point..Not too worried about wiring anymore, just trying to figure out best mounting options and higher volume and quality increase without having to install an amp. Not sure if Im overthinking it at this point.

The hole you see is the unaltered factory hole with the tweeter in it. There's no room for another tweeter there as this tweeter fills in the dash mesh.  With the CDT tweeters there's no need for another tweeter because of such a wide and high range frequency response. The sound reflects off the windshield and high db sensitivity makes them plenty lout enough. 

AleksanderSuave Enthusiast

AleksanderSuave

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, mafd2 said:

The hole you see is the unaltered factory hole with the tweeter in it. There's no room for another tweeter there as this tweeter fills in the dash mesh.  With the CDT tweeters there's no need for another tweeter because of such a wide and high range frequency response. The sound reflects off the windshield and high db sensitivity makes them plenty lout enough. 

what made you choose those over something like the CDT Unity 8.0's? They seem very popular in this specific application (GM, toyota, subaru..with odd sized corner mids instead of tweeters)

SPASierra Enthusiast

SPASierra

Posted
Posted
18 hours ago, mafd2 said:

So, as being into home, vintage and car audio for a long time here's what I did to my 2022 Bose system.  I left the front door speakers in, replaced the front tweeters and rear door speakers.  The system sounds so much better.  As stated by mjonesjr.84, changing the front door speakers doesn't really make a difference as these are only mid bass speakers and do a good job. 

 

The tweeters I used are the CDT AUDIO ES-1200iSF 1" high resolution wide dispersion tweeters from Woofers Etc.  These tweeters have the best specs, frequency response and I think these are the best performing tweeters you can get.  The on and off axis curves at 0 degree, 15 degree, 30 degree, 45 degree, 60 degree are exceptional and out perform other tweeters by far.  Frequency response is 1500Hz-50,000Hz ( you won't find this range with other tweeters) and sensitivity is 92.5dB.

 

The rear door speakers I used are JBL 3 ohm Club 622 6 3/4 speakers with the patented Plus One woofer. They have great sensitivity (93db) and frequency response (48-21,000 Hz). They are a little louder and much cleaner and clearer than stock. Tweeter is angled up on these.

 

Turning the bass and treble all the way up and midrange (which is in 1k frequency range) down gives an amazing sound with clean bass and crisp, clean, amazing highs.  The midrange setting on the Bose system sounds like crap and is the killer.  You'll be surprised how much better it will sound doing these 2 mods and turning the midrange down.   Thanks to the OP for starting this thread.  

Did you use the 2021 harness for the tweeters, or did you have to cut the wires? I really don’t want to cut them if at all possible. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • garagerog
      Low fuel pressure after installing new fuel pump

      By garagerog · Posted

      Replace the fuel pump with an OEM AC-Delco.
    • Gilkey96
      Low fuel pressure after installing new fuel pump

      By Gilkey96 · Posted

      Hello, first time posting here. I have an 03 Chevy 1500HD with the 6 liter gas engine. The truck ran fine until the fuel pump died on me and had to get it towed. Replaced the fuel pump with a precision pump from O’rileys and changed the fuel filter while I was there. The truck will run and drive now but it wants to idle around 500 rpm when in drive and it tries to stall if you touch the gas. It drives fine though, just doesn’t want to idle. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and only have 50 psi. I guess these trucks should have 55-62 psi to run right. I thought the regulator might be the issue because when I would unplug the vacuum hose it jumped to 56 psi. Replaced the regulator and no change. The only thing I can think of is that I was sold a faulty fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated because I’d rather not have to take the bed off again if I don’t have too. Thank you!
    • diyer2
      AFM Experience

      By diyer2 · Posted

      I've been wrenching on GM trucks for 17 years. And I need to get something off my chest because it's been weighing on me for a long time. After all that time, all those motors, all those people standing in my bay, I've figured out there are really only two kinds of owners. The ones who already know about this. And the ones who are about to find out the hard way. A guy came into my shop a few weeks back in a 2018 Silverado 5.3. Sharp guy, maybe 35. Knew his truck cold. He'd been on the forums, read the threads, done his homework. He only rolled in so I could double-check a little module he'd already plugged in himself. Wanted a second set of eyes on it. Ten minutes, in and out, drove off happy. Two days later, a completely different story walked through the same door. Older fella this time, in a 2016 Sierra. Gorgeous truck, clearly babied, not a scratch on it. Wedding ring. Looked like a guy who took care of his stuff. He was in because his engine had started knocking on the way to work. And by the time I got the valve cover off, I already knew it was too late. Lifter collapsed. Cylinder 5. Camshaft chewed up. The whole top end shot. Same kind of truck. Same motor. Same roads, probably the same dealer. The only thing separating those two men was information. I've been at this since 2008, and I've worked on everything GM puts out. Silverados. Sierras. Tahoes. Yukons. Suburbans. Escalades. The 5.3 and the 6.2. Doesn't matter which badge is on the tailgate. They all carry the same problem. So here's the information one of those guys had and the other one didn't. It's called Active Fuel Management. AFM. GM started building it into their V6s and V8s back in 2007 to squeeze out a little better mileage on the highway. Maybe a mile or two a gallon. All to hit government fuel economy numbers. The way it works, the motor quietly shuts down half its cylinders when you're just cruising along. And the little lifters that pull that off have a tiny pin inside them that's constantly clicking in and out. Lock, unlock, lock, unlock. Hundreds of times a drive. Thousands of times a week. Eventually one of those pins wears through. The lifter drops. And it starts grinding the camshaft down like a chisel on butter. And what nobody tells you is that the shudder you feel around 40 or 50 mph? That's the system cycling. Every single time. Here's what really gets me. The pre-2007 trucks, the ones without AFM, they're bulletproof. I've got customers still daily driving them with 260,000 miles on the odometer. Not a problem in the world. GM took a perfectly good motor that would have lasted a lifetime and bolted this system onto it. And it is wrecking engines that should have run forever. The guys who hang around the forums already know all of this. So do the techs. They handled this years ago. They didn't sit around waiting for the dealership to mail them a warning letter, because that letter is never coming. It's the guys who figured somebody would've told them who end up on my lift. And I want to be clear, because this part matters. Maintenance has nothing to do with it. I've torn down motors with barely 30,000 miles on the clock. I pulled apart a Tahoe last summer with 24,000 on it. Practically a brand new truck. Owner had it less than a year. Spotless oil. Best synthetic money can buy, changed early every time. Made no difference. I've seen guys with full dealer records, every interval stamped. Made no difference. The oil changes were never the problem. The pin was. And no amount of babying that truck stops that pin from cycling every single time you drive. That's the part that eats at me. These are good motors. Take the AFM out of the equation and a 5.3 or a 6.2 will run 300,000 miles and never blink. So a few years ago I started telling every single owner who comes through my doors the exact same thing the smart guys already knew. Get yourself a FullForce disabler. It plugs right into the port under your dash. Couple of seconds and you're done. It just tells the computer to leave every cylinder running, full time. No more cycling. No more beating those lifters back and forth every time you turn the key. It doesn't reprogram anything. Doesn't touch your tune. And unplug it before a dealer visit and there's absolutely zero trace it was ever installed. I've had customers come back at 40,000, 60,000, 80,000 miles after I put one in. Zero issues. The trucks run smoother. And the lifters aren't getting beaten to death every single drive. I won't sit here and tell you it's magic. A lifter that's already damaged is a lifter that's already damaged, and this won't un-ring that bell. But it takes away the one thing causing all that wear in the first place. That's the whole game. You don't need a five-thousand-dollar delete. You don't need an expensive tune. You don't need to tear anything apart. You just need to stop the cycling. I'm not writing this for any company. I'm writing it because I'm tired of watching the guys who didn't know pay four and five figures for it. I'm tired of being the guy who has to break the news. I'm tired of knowing that the guys who did know fixed the whole thing for the price of a tank of gas, and the only difference was that somebody told them first. If you drive a Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, or Escalade from 2007 or newer with a V6 or V8, you've got AFM. You've got those lifters, and they're cycling every single time you drive. So be the guy who already knew. Not the one I'm scraping metal out of next month. EDIT: A bunch of folks asked, so here it is. The one I put my faith in is FullForce. This is where to find it: https://www.tryfullforce.com/products/fullforce™-afm-dfm-disabler They back it with a 60-day guarantee too. I've handed out more than I can count and not one's ever come back to me. Not one. See less
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks for following along. I'm not author material, my tenses are all over the place and an editor would have a heck of a time cleaning up after me. Reading and writing is still a fun pastime though.   My new scanner came in yesterday, wow, where the heck has this thing been?! It connects right up to the Blazer, there's all kinds of bidirectional tests like EGR activation and percentage, toggle the fuel pump relay, EVAP purge valve, IAC control, AC relay, reset the transmission's adaptive learning, toggle shift solenoids and TCC lockup, and I can reset fuel trims with the click of a button...all things I could have used over the last 60 days!   It's also telling me there is a stored code in the ABS module for front left wheel sensor open and something about the brake switch. The ABS dash light works. It illuminates normally during the self-test at key on/ start and that's it. I cleared the codes and will see if they set when I take it out later. That, and I'm going to get (hopefully) real data on timing and cam ******. The PID's are there.   I connected the tool to my truck...holy smokes. Newer vehicles make early OBDII vehicles look like 8-bit, pixelated, early Nintendo stuff. This? This is like wearing 3D virtual reality goggles playing one of those elaborate, cinematic video games with seasons and plots in comparison. There are SO MANY modules and SO MANY tests and SO MUCH data. There's a scanner sequence for filling the coolant...   End of the day, it's a tool with way more power than I need, but the versatility to do old and new is there (and I need an adapter to connect it to my OBDI Camaro). It will allow me to do the first pass of diagnosis when out-of-warranty vehicles need help, and it will enable more DIY maintenance like brake system bleeding, ABS bleed, etc. I probably over-bought here, but, mission is accomplished.   Enjoy your Sunday...I need to shut this machine down and go get ready for the week ahead.
    • MORSNO
      Which 2027 engine will you choose?

      By MORSNO · Posted

      Not that I've read, after all the issues they've had in the past I'm pretty sure they learned their lesson. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...