Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I currently have a 20 trail boss 5.3 with 60K miles. No issues other than rear window leak. I’ve been contemplating an upgrade. Looking at the 22 RST with the 3.0 baby duramax. I drive about 1600 miles a month about 70/30 highway/country back roads fields etc. I currently get about 19 mpg highway with the trail boss. Just curious of everyone’s opinion if it’s worth it to upgrade to the small diesel over what I have?  I know diesel is more $ where I’m located and the added cost of maintenance on the diesel but for those who may have upgraded was it worth it? Thanks in advance for the responses. 

Posted

I can't speak for upgrading to the diesel but the 2022 refresh is a nice upgrade by itself.  I like my new 2022 RST 6.2 more than I liked my 2019 LTZ 6.2.  Just my opinion but I think the refresh is that much nicer even with the RST compared to the older LTZ.  If I was choosing between the 3.0 and the 5.3, I would choose the 3.0 and especially with the refresh.  I never loved my 2017 5.3 and again just my opinion.  

Posted
13 hours ago, 17Z71 said:

I can't speak for upgrading to the diesel but the 2022 refresh is a nice upgrade by itself.  I like my new 2022 RST 6.2 more than I liked my 2019 LTZ 6.2.  Just my opinion but I think the refresh is that much nicer even with the RST compared to the older LTZ.  If I was choosing between the 3.0 and the 5.3, I would choose the 3.0 and especially with the refresh.  I never loved my 2017 5.3 and again just my opinion.  

Thanks for the reply. The refresh is very nice also. Apparently no one else has an opinion if the difference in mpg and maintenance is worth it. Lol. 

Posted
3 minutes ago, diyer2 said:

Why spend money you don't need to?

I used to upgrade for HP. I don’t use most of the so called upgrades now. Cruise control, blue tooth I’m happy.

Posted
23 minutes ago, diyer2 said:

Why spend money you don't need to?

Well I’m at 60K on my 5.3 which is the end of the powertrain warranty. I drive a lot of miles back and forth to work and vacations throughout the year. The price of the 3.0 is the same or cheaper than another 5.3 plus it’s a 100K warranty and better fuel mileage. Just looking if those differences and the added maintenance on the 3.0 are worth it. 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Jt-bo said:

Any reason you’re going with the 22 LM2 motor vs the 23 LZ0?

No reason other than I can get a 22 with the LM2 a little cheaper from what I’ve seen

Posted
54 minutes ago, bowtechjoe said:

No reason other than I can get a 22 with the LM2 a little cheaper from what I’ve seen

How much is a little?

Posted (edited)

If money is not an option go for it. But your probably going to be paying at least 10 - 20k more than what your 2019 went brand new, the inflation on vehicles is still high.

Edited by jaxcam02
Posted
20 hours ago, bowtechjoe said:

Well I’m at 60K on my 5.3 which is the end of the powertrain warranty. I drive a lot of miles back and forth to work and vacations throughout the year. The price of the 3.0 is the same or cheaper than another 5.3 plus it’s a 100K warranty and better fuel mileage. Just looking if those differences and the added maintenance on the 3.0 are worth it. 

 

"Upgrade" has a catchy sound to it...doesn't it? Have you noticed the price of diesel is high enough to eat the entire difference in fuel cost and then some? DEF cost. PPF issues?

 

Your current ride, well maintained, has triple or better the current miles left in it. What "thing" does the newer truck have you just can't live without? A wireless phone charger? A third cup holder? Under dash lights? 

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Confused 1
Posted (edited)

My latest upgrade in a truck was my 14 GMC. Now that was an upgrade. It was quiet, smooth, no wind noise. The best part was just by adding E-85 I got 25 more HP. The engine deactivation made me queasy. My avalanche is my favorite. I only added blue tooth. I don’t want anymore technology. My phone has everything I use. I like simple. It took me two years to know all that my 15 CRV had. I just turned off everything I could after it tried to stop in the middle of traffic. Someone was just moving into the turn lane. Probably why my mother in law quit driving. She probably thought the car was possessed. 

Edited by KARNUT
Posted

I just went through this when looking for a truck. I was looking at both the Duramax and the 6.2 and there really wasn’t a big difference in price from 22 to 23. A few thousand bucks with really isn’t much when you consider what your payments will be on a 60 something thousand dollar truck. What really makes the biggest difference is what options you choose. A leather Z71 opted RST could end up being five grand more than one with cloth and the basic 4wd. 

Posted
14 minutes ago, Jt-bo said:

I just went through this when looking for a truck. I was looking at both the Duramax and the 6.2 and there really wasn’t a big difference in price from 22 to 23. A few thousand bucks with really isn’t much when you consider what your payments will be on a 60 something thousand dollar truck. What really makes the biggest difference is what options you choose. A leather Z71 opted RST could end up being five grand more than one with cloth and the basic 4wd. 

 

Shoot its more than that when considering all engine options and packages. Most can remove the Z71 package, pretty much no one uses 4 low. Shoot, remove 4wd if you live down south and aren't off roading which pretty much no one does, that is another 3500 saved. Then leather and safety/tech packages are another 2k. You can get out with a 5.3 for 58k (or 55k for a 2wd) or well option with the bigger engines for around 10k more all in. Just need to buy what you need and use.

 

As far as the original question, only the OP can make that decision. Fuel savings won't be there especially if you aren't towing. So the diesel is more a want at that point. Premium is 75 cents more per gallon here in north Texas and Diesel is 1.50 more than regular, so the fuel savings right there is nonexistent over ten years; especially when taking into consideration the higher maintenance costs and DEF required at our local prices. Using nation averages the 10 year very slightly leans towars the diesel but not enough to pay off the difference or add maintenance and DEF costs (which btw is all easily found on google); so if doing it for the fuel savings then that is backwards. Just upgrade if you want because anyway you slice it that is a poor financial decision.

 

Tyler

Posted
3 hours ago, Amcguy1970 said:

Just upgrade if you want because anyway you slice it that is a poor financial decision.

Most peeps have to crash & burn (some multiple times) before they realise Dave Ramsey is right. It's a great feeling knowing one can purchase anything they can afford with cash, not to mention the abiltiy to sleep like a rock at night not having to worry about money.

If I can't buy it at the end of the month I'm not buying it at all, I'm off the credit Ferris wheel and never getting back on.

: ' )

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Update for anyone following:    Installed everything as shown in diagram. Opted for 8 AWG from Battery Positive to a 50A resettable inline breaker. 8 AWG is tied into to 2x 12 AWG wires feeding a 6 way fuse bus in parallel (manufacturer’s design of what I purchased).    4 of the 6 fuses available for circuits are tied to terminal 30 of each relay. I tied a jumper from one of my spare circuits off the bus to terminal 86 of each relay. The trigger, terminal 85, was pulled from my interior by way of T-Taps from the X61A-X5 pins 10, 11, 17 and 23. This was the hardest part of the job. Even with the X61A unbolted and the X5 removed - there was VERY little wiggle room.  I added back up lights that I want to come on with my cargo lamp - but when I would check continuity between S48A-X1 pin 18 to its respective landing point on the X61A-X5 it triggers the factory relay… Instead I opted for a add-a-fuse on the passenger interior fuse panel (fuse location 10 - cargo lamp) and ran it through the boot on the driver side to my load. Did this to avoid introducing any electrical gremlins.   Note: Please check for continuity between the S48A-X1 and the X61A-X5. In my case wire colours were not the same as other’s who have posted. To do a continuity check you need a Multimeter. Completely disassemble the S48A-X1 and remove the brown face plate off the X61A-X5 by way of a flat head screwdriver - this was the only way I could get any results.   The outputs, terminal 87 of the relays, were fed into a junction box and landed at Individual studs and were labelled Aux 1-4.    At this point, all you need to do is run wire to your loads and bring them to ground. I created a negative bus in the engine bay, all my negatives land here.    For anyone having issues with all of your new aux switch lights coming on with the press of one - I noticed this only to be an issue when the battery wasn’t hooked up to my relays? No idea why, but it was quickly corrected by having my system buttoned up and functional.     
    • Well I ordered the Autel ts508, and it won't work on my truck I tried all the 2023 and everything it just says vehicle not supported lol   I'm able to send this unit back, so I'm going to do that, then I'll just stop into a some tire shops and if none of them are able to do it, I guess ill have to spend a bunch of money to get a good scanner..... Thanks GM lol
    • Don't need the air tube but that's how everyone sells them. Most places won't remove that one piece and sell it alone. No money to be made. Hoping someone swapped theirs out for a CAI and no longer wants it. Not asking anyone to give it away. Offering to buy it but I don't need the tube. It's held on by a hex head screw and nut. Been all over eBay. 
    • Wait, you guys are changing your oil???
    • If you need that mount looking piece.  You need the air tube.       Cheapest one I see on eBay - 2007-2014 GM Silverado 1500 Air Cleaner Outlet Duct Assembly 5.3L OEM 15901934 | eBay     Same price but free shipping - 2009-2014 CADILLAC ESCALADE 6.2L AIR CLEANER OUTLET DUCT ASSEMBLY 15901934 OEM | eBay
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...