Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

No, not the crappy Alec Baldwin movie, the stuff that creeps it’s way into a new truck!

 

so I have been super vigilant with fluid filming all non waxed areas, including inner body panels even taking the plugs from the rockers and in the bed to get the inner wheel wells. 
 

not a spec of rust on any of those places. 
 

I didn’t fluid film any waxed areas because I read some ppl stating it could ruin the wax. 
 

I applied some fluid film on one small area of waxed metal about 5mo ago and I’m happy to announce fluid film has not done anything to the wax. This area has been hit with a pressure washer, not super close but casually multiple times. 
 

the reason I mention this is because there are multiple places on the frame and other waxed surfaces that have small amounts of surface rust forming. 
 

I’ve never seen that on other non waxed trucks or cars that use a paint or E coat during the first year. 
 

I plan on getting a couple cans of nox rust which is whats on the frame to apply before next winter. 
 

Has anyone done anything to their trucks for rust issues or to prevent it?

 

I know you guys in the warm states don’t have issues although I’d bet near the ocean you could. 
 

here are a few pics
 

 

1A612A58-6B7B-43F5-8F8E-9C320F7B476D.jpeg

Posted

That white dust? No, Tony Montana didn’t throw his stash out the window. Yup that’s salt guys. Us cold weather folks know it as the enemy. 
 

pic of the rear diff shows it looks spotless since it’s had fluid film on it from day one. 

1A1F7A20-5D6B-4ED2-8203-480212A5ACE4.jpeg

6485DE89-0A7D-4BE9-A8B9-27245B444098.jpeg

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 minute ago, 64BAwagon said:

I did everything on my 21 with FF including the frame. I have not noticed any degradation of the wax coating. 

20221020_101626.jpg

20221020_101641.jpg

So you did fluid film your whole frame? Good to know. And it’s probably fine right?

 

to really see any you have to get under the truck because it’s on some edges and at weld point crevices. 
 

take some light pics around the rear leaf shackle attachment points.  Seems a few spots there. 
 

of course multiple parts in the front steering are raw steel and get surface rust by looking at them. Not sure why those parts are not painted. I know they don’t add to the structural integrity of the truck, but still. 

Posted
32 minutes ago, It's Tim said:

These vehicles will fail from electrical / electronic issues long before oxidation is an issue.

 

Given a long enough period of time and neglect, perhaps. But even an average Maintenace regime will have the electrical lasting two to three times as long as the average 'salt belt' vehicle. Prevention is a worthwhile project. And besides, the aftermarket catches up eventually for most things important. 

 

1 hour ago, Pryme said:

No, not the crappy Alec Baldwin movie, the stuff that creeps it’s way into a new truck!

 

 

Posted

Mine is a garage queen that has never seen that white stuff on it and my frame is a lil orange like that on the edges too.  I haven't done any fluid film on the 2020, but I bathe my winter beater in it.  :)   

Posted

Normal. Wax doesn't like sharp edges and doesn't creep well into lap seams. It's not a failing of the wax. It is its nature. Lanoline penetrates. Instead of sealing 'pinch weld' areas it seeps into them. I've tried for two years now on the wife's SUV the scrap and paint routine and every year is blisters another level. Done and dun with that method. Lanoline is it. 

 

1A612A58-6B7B-43F5-8F8E-9C320F7B476D.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Given a long enough period of time and neglect, perhaps. But even an average Maintenace regime will have the electrical lasting two to three times as long as the average 'salt belt' vehicle. Prevention is a worthwhile project. And besides, the aftermarket catches up eventually for most things important. 

 

 

 

Just watched the video. Looks like good stuff. Not really different from fluid film. I still have a gallon of fluid film and I shoot it on at about 80psi. It creeps all over at that pressure. 
I also have a couple aerosol cans for touch ups if I don’t want to set up the compressor. 
 

another thing I’ll be doing for next winter is getting some proper mud flaps. The little stock ones suck both front and rear. Those should help a bit keeping the crap from getting all over 

  • Like 1
Posted

i just kept frame wax as is, might do the fluid film some time soon just for the heck of it. also scuffed up all under side of the cab panels/tranny tunnel/inner wheel whells (before i put in the wheel liners)/under the bed panels. then sprayed with about 3 coats duplicolor bed armor. it was a heck of a job but has held up great so far.

  • Like 1
Posted

RUST, salted roads and to many cloudy days left Michigan years ago.

  • Like 2
Posted
21 minutes ago, Pryme said:

Just watched the video. Looks like good stuff.

 

My take is that each product he shows has a different viscosity. Heavy to light, Wool Wax, Fluid Film and Surface Sheild it the least viscous. I think that's great for pinched seams and internal channels. Problem with that product is the can itself and the adaptor required. But if you spray bulk.....

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
    • It is possible to add your own 12v outlet to your truck.  Check out this video:   I verified via GM Upfitters that pin 31 is the same on the 1500 trucks.  The wire is GM part number 84779405.   You can get the GM 12v outlet from Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Accessory-Receptacle-25774623-13549530/dp/B0F1H9YRGF EWAY 12 Volt Power Adapter for GM   https://www.amazon.com/EWAY-Chevrolet-Silverado-Cigarette-Ignition/dp/B0915RRW6Q/ref=sr_1_1?   I just haven't figured out a good place to put the 12v outlet in my truck.   Some people are getting USB-C to 12V adapters  https://www.amazon.com/WYMECT-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Adapter/dp/B0F87WNQKB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa? Not sure if they provide the correct amperage that a device like a tire inflator would need.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...