Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey everyone!

So rather sad situation, but my beloved 2014 has bubbling in the rockers and it has just slightly started to make its way to the cab corners. :(

I know this is a ton of text and time is short, but here's why I suspect the problem might be my nerf bars if you would like to read it:

Spoiler

I had been cautious for a while, but this got so bad so fast out of nowhere that it is genuinely upsetting, and it led me really thinking and doing some research. I was wondering if someone on here would have the knowledge to help me with my concerns?

 

Basically, I have reason to believe that I essentially screwed my truck by putting my nerf bars on it. I got these steps about 2 1/2 years ago and I remember shopping around for months because I only wanted a well-built product and something that would utilize the factory mounting points - no new drilling. Honestly, they are wonderful steps, and have held up splendidly. However, I think that the rocker panels either just are super fragile or just not the strongest metal on the 14-15s because I think over time they just opened up ways to get moisture in and trap it. I say 14-15s because I have yet to see a 16+ with this problem (perhaps not enough time has elapsed yet).

 

My first initial concerns were "Oh crap, did I botch the installation?" or "Was it because they were aftermarket?," and I really don't think that's the case. So for the past couple months I've looked into CARFAX, FB Marketplace, local people who I know have 14-15 K2s and equivalent mileage, and I noticed one thing in common: every single one that had running boards, even from the factory, had the same exact bubbling patterns as me, or worse. I really don't think I found any cases of rust with those who didn't have running boards at all, though maybe this is a coincidence??


The reason I'm asking this question is I think I want to bite the bullet and get this rust problem fixed before it gets worse, because I would really hate for this to make me lose my love for the truck. However, if the running boards are what is going to promote this rust problem again in the future - do I just ditch them? Or are there options? It's just something I want to know before diving into this, and it would be a bit of a shame since I thought the steps completed the look of my truck and were a big help for my family and friends getting in and out.

Thanks so much you guys! I'm sorry if this seems a little naive, this is my first time tackling this. It is on me for not spraying something like Krown or Fluid Film in the rockers, but please note that until recently I had no reason to believe the rockers were rotting out and I have been religious in keeping my vehicle clean during these harsh MI winters. Any input is greatly appreciated!

Posted

i dont think its the steps, poor design. my 2014 is bubbling under the rear door and cab corner and it was rust proofed. so either they did a bad job spraying or its just the usual bad gm rocker problem

  • Like 2
Posted

Frame mount running boards only for me. Limits your choices though.

 

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

The older gentleman that installed the Rhino Tubular Step Bars on Pepper made some extension brackets to lower the bar a few inches. The are hung from the cab mount bolts. This did three things to help prevent rust. 1.) Protected the rocker from your boots/shoes striking the rocker compromising the finish. 2.) Placed the bar in a position to deflect rocks tossed by the front tires from hitting the rockers. 3.) Put enough space between the rocker and tube so the snow/salt was not held against the body. 

 

IMG_0253.JPG.249353198ed5bf0315ed3b52e7b758c4.JPG

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Nah, we see this gen at work without running boards on and they have smoked rockers.  Poor design, crap metals.  

 

The rocker mounted boards is just u-nuts that go into pre stamped holes in the inner rocker wall and the lower painted lip, then the screws zip into those u-nuts so its not like there is any drilling of the cab going on to expose primer or painted metal down to bare metal.  Later built trucks say 15-16 to 19, the front two top mount holes are threaded inserts right into the rocker.  

Edited by newdude
  • Like 1
Posted

I look at the situation a little differently now in retirement. Before retirement my trucks had either running boards or bars. I ran them up and down pipelines and utility lines for up to 3 years and 150K. Then got another one. The ones at home I wanted to last didn’t see bad weather. Even Grumpy doesn’t drive his in bad weather especially when snowing. Making them last in undesirable conditions requires either lots of prevention maintenance or a bad weather beater. Eventually driving in bad weather rust will win. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 hour ago, KARNUT said:

Even Grumpy doesn’t drive his in bad weather especially when snowing.

 

Amen! But the setup on Pepper has also prevented rocker chip repair. 

 

1 hour ago, KARNUT said:

Making them last in undesirable conditions requires either lots of prevention maintenance or a bad weather beater. Eventually driving in bad weather rust will win. 

 

Alas, nothing is forever. However, a really long time is possible. As you say, requires you care enough to be nearly. flawless in execution. Flexible in your methods. Last year was the last scrap and paint of Dizzy. Next year it's scrap and Fluid Film. 

 

7 hours ago, silveradosid said:

i dont think its the steps, poor design. my 2014 is bubbling under the rear door and cab corner and it was rust proofed. so either they did a bad job spraying or its just the usual bad gm rocker problem

 

Dad's 98 Silverado is driven year around. He does not beg off the snow or salt. He has repaired the driver's side cab corner that rotted in spite of rust proofing protection. During the repair they found a foam block of insulation about 1 inch below the hole used to apply the rust proofing. The blockage left that corner exposed. It also gave an excellent piece of metal to weld the new corner in by. 

 

Dad made his own running boards that attach by the bottom of the frame and are made of paint to match white Oak. He left enough space to allow cleaning out of snow and salt and wide enough to keep stones form bruising the body.  

Posted
11 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Amen! But the setup on Pepper has also prevented rocker chip repair. 

 

 

Alas, nothing is forever. However, a really long time is possible. As you say, requires you care enough to be nearly. flawless in execution. Flexible in your methods. Last year was the last scrap and paint of Dizzy. Next year it's scrap and Fluid Film. 

 

 

Dad's 98 Silverado is driven year around. He does not beg off the snow or salt. He has repaired the driver's side cab corner that rotted in spite of rust proofing protection. During the repair they found a foam block of insulation about 1 inch below the hole used to apply the rust proofing. The blockage left that corner exposed. It also gave an excellent piece of metal to weld the new corner in by. 

 

Dad made his own running boards that attach by the bottom of the frame and are made of paint to match white Oak. He left enough space to allow cleaning out of snow and salt and wide enough to keep stones form bruising the body.  

I spent three weeks getting my daughters, now my odyssey to my standards. Besides maintenance. Scrubbing seats, carpet, compounding and painting. Color matching was a pain and bigger areas than I usually attempt. The satisfaction level is through the roof. The odyssey passes as well kept one year old instead of seven years old. I’m going to be way outside my comfort level for a cross country vehicle (trip vehicle). If it fails it won’t be from lack of maintenance. My goal currently is 200K miles. Something you consider normal. A first attempt by me.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
19 minutes ago, KARNUT said:

I spent three weeks getting my daughters, now my odyssey to my standards. Besides maintenance. Scrubbing seats, carpet, compounding and painting. Color matching was a pain and bigger areas than I usually attempt. The satisfaction level is through the roof. The odyssey passes as well kept one year old instead of seven years old. I’m going to be way outside my comfort level for a cross country vehicle (trip vehicle). If it fails it won’t be from lack of maintenance. My goal currently is 200K miles. Something you consider normal. A first attempt by me.

 

Brother, Dizzy is sitting at 198,800 miles and purring like a kitten with a bowl of warm milk. You know what a pig she's been.

You can do this!! :thumbs:

  • Like 2
Posted

As I recall, when I removed my running boards, when I put on the 1.5" body lift and before the Amp power steps, my running boards were mounted to the frame.
The old steps were a dealer installed item but I don't recall any of it connected to only the rocker panel.

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Hey guys,

So I wanted to provide a little update to this thread that will hopefully be useful. I'm looking into getting the rockers cleaned up and today my local body guy and I went underneath to assess the damage. I can conclude that what many of you said was true, the installation of the running boards was not the start of the corrosion, it really just comes down to bad design, at least for 14-15 (not sure if they fixed this with the refresh)

Water flows down from the back of the cab into a little flange at the end of the rockers and then just kind of collects there. I guess nine Michigan winters was finally enough time for it to really do some damage, unfortunately. Also didn't help that I washed my truck the other day on a hot, humid, overcast evening on an incline, and within that week I now have a blister on the outside of the passenger rocker right underneath the rear door. What a pain in the neck this is, lol.

One thing that was rather striking to me is that the inner rockers - which are usually the first thing to go - were surprisingly in pretty good shape? For an almost 10 year old truck in good ol' salty Michigan it's really not all too bad

That's all for now! Weighing my options on getting that rotten metal removed, looking to provide some photos. But that's for another thread 😉

Posted

Pictures of the area that needs some spray protection would be great.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is just a thought as I can't claim this is the correct thing to do but will suggest it and you can decide if its something you would try. First round up some electrical contact cleaner spray as they at least claim its not supposed to damage the components ( brake cleaner depending on the type is a real destroyer of plastic etc ) and to use that to assist to clean out any grime from the pins as well as the mechanism by spraying and working the lever etc. Then my next thought is to use silicone spray lube and not on the pins but on the seal and the pivot assembly. It may not be possible to spray it on certain area's and have to use a q tip as Davestar mentioned to keep it from getting on the pins. Dielectric grease can be fine on some things but its easy to get too much on if not careful and then gunk things up and a possible risk of getting it on the pins or sockets. The silicone spray is able to get into a mechanical component to help lube and on surfaces its just a fine film to reduce friction such as that seal. Also it can be doused off with a good flush of the electrical contact cleaner the next time for a repeat of a "clean and then lightly lube" step process to wash off any dirt that had stuck to the exterior etc of the plug.   Free advice, yes. Good advice ... now there's the question mark !    
    • Hey thanks yall for the info. It apparently was the key fob - the "reserve" key fob works just fine. Yall were all over it. Great input! JRD
    • I just bought one of these.   https://www.topdon.us/collections/diagnostic-tools/products/artidiag-pro   Yeah, it`s got a cable. $250/year after 2 years. Do I want more? Yep. But, I`m not working any more and can`t afford a whirlpool in my tool box.
    • Why don't I have a good scanner? I've always wanted one when I've needed one.   My latest reading says I don't need to do a relearn on the ckp sensor on a 1995 with OBD 1.5. The relearn is prescribed for the later-model 1995's which shipped with actual OBD II when GM completed the transition in prep for the 1996 MY. I need to confirm that. Did you know forums are disappearing? Knuckleheads on Facebook... it's not the same. It's just not.   So, scanners. Again, shooting myself in the foot for having eBayed my Snap On MT2500 "brick" with all the adapters. Not that I couldn't buy another but those are getting quite old, and mine wasn't new enough to work on 2000's vehicles.   Damn it (as I'm scanning my email between paragraphs here). Did you know there's a 2000 Jimmy 2-door on BaT that's ending this morning? It's local. I want it. 14k miles. Absolutely beautiful.   Back to scanners. MT2500's are old. Solus, now that could be a contender. There's a ~2008 Verus with a system error that's basically new in box for cheap. Hmm...I'm not sure about a scanner that runs an archaic version of windows (95 or CE, I can't tell).   I want the ability to reset and rotate TPMS, test individual modules, bleed ABS, electronic parking brake controls for servicing brakes, relearn procedures and other bidirectional controls.   Snap On does an MT2600. It's a new model as of last year, marketed as their "entry" scanner. Entry? Only where $1900 gets you through the doorway plus, I'm guessing, $1000/year if you wish to keep it current. So goes scan tools actually designed for production environments. Want decent products with excellent support, you pay for it.   Everyone is raving about Autels and TopDons and Foxconns and all these newer brands that are selling the $500 "prosumer" scanners for backyard hacks like me. They're tempting...honestly. Updates are cheaper, base prices are remarkably cheaper... And you get to deal with bugs and translation whoopsies and, well, just don't use it on anything expensive, OK? Having a dealer replace an ECU because it needs to be re-imaged after an adventure in scanning is no joke. But I think most people are getting by OK with these units.   eBay on a scratch-and-sniff pro-model oldie, a shiny new TopDon, or???   God dang it, I can't stop looking at this Jimmy. I'm ready! I'll Bring The TRailer! It's beautiful.
    • I removed the OE running boards.  It looked so much better.  I wish I took them off a long time ago.     I had to put something back on for my wife.  I wanted Westin Sure Grip Running Boards but they are very pricey, like $600 plus.  I was going to go with the Ionic 41's like I had on the 2019 Silverado but went with Westin Outlaw Drop Steps instead, about $200 cheaper.  They are sturdy and functional but not super crazy about the look, but it works.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...