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If I wasn't so close to retirement.....I would buy this truck tomorrow!


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54 minutes ago, Dr1ft3r said:

 

Since I have a 12,000# winch the storage bin under my back seat is completely filled with different brands of everything mentioned here, and then some. 100' of 3/8" dyneema winch extension rope, several D-rings, a few snatch blocks, one of those hitch mounted d-rings like in your pic (I have hitches on the front and rear of my truck), a few tree savers, some synthetic winch rope protectors (in case they are rubbing on something), and a few other things that escape me at the moment.

Then my ATV also has a 3,500# winch and I have another set of gear for that which stays with my ATV. Recovery gear sometimes breaks or needs to be taken out of service due to wear, it's a good thing to have more than you need.

So would wrapping the recovery strap through a wheel or around something be an okay practice? Or what would you recommend to actually attach to the vehicle being pulled out?

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Recently TV ads for Ram were 16K below MSRP, GM 8K below MSRP. The ads were short lived, maybe 2 days. I thought it was fishy.

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There’s adds with similar discounts on all the big three here in my area. Currently I was seeing the local Ram dealer advertised 4 trucks under 40K. Three were 23s one a 24 work truck. Ford is discounted. As well as GM. I’m even seeing some discounts on Tundra. Some even at 0 percent interest.

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I bought a 2024 4runner TRD Off Road just after Christmas for about 8% below msrp. I tried to push them more but I was a bit handicapped because I’d been waiting for that exact configuration and the salesman knew it, and I didn’t want the car sitting on the lot getting test driven. I bought it with 4 miles on it. If I had been willing to walk and wait for them to call I’m sure I could have gotten at least another 1000 off.  

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1 hour ago, Another JR said:

I bought a 2024 4runner TRD Off Road just after Christmas for about 8% below msrp. I tried to push them more but I was a bit handicapped because I’d been waiting for that exact configuration and the salesman knew it, and I didn’t want the car sitting on the lot getting test driven. I bought it with 4 miles on it. If I had been willing to walk and wait for them to call I’m sure I could have gotten at least another 1000 off.  

A friend of mine never failed to walk....no matter how good the deal was. He never once had a dealer not get back to him.

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12 hours ago, diyer2 said:

Recently TV ads for Ram were 16K below MSRP, GM 8K below MSRP. The ads were short lived, maybe 2 days. I thought it was fishy.

I'm actually kind of surprised.  I was thinking something had to change but I didn't think it would be until this summer. 

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21 hours ago, Pryme said:

So would wrapping the recovery strap through a wheel or around something be an okay practice? Or what would you recommend to actually attach to the vehicle being pulled out?

 

It depends on the circumstances. If they have a hitch, I would use one of those hitch d-rings that you have. You can also use another one of those yellow straps that you have (shorter length) and wrap it around a solid recovery point and connect the loops with a d-ring, then use that 30' strap to connect it to your vehicle. You could also attach a d-ring to the vehicle, if possible, and use the strap between that d-ring and your hitch d-ring.

Just make sure that you have d-rings big enough for the straps you intend to use. From the picture it looks like that d-ring is barely big enough to accommodate that 1 strap in the pic, maybe, but certainly not 2 of those. If the straps are bunched up in the d-ring then the strength of the strap is reduced. If you need 2 different straps, or 2 strap loops from one strap, of that width with that d-ring, then another option would be to attach a d-ring to each strap, then attach those 2 d-rings to the main d-ring. That will help keep them from bunching up. The strap loop should sit evenly in the saddle of the d-ring to achieve the rated strength

 

There's a lot of possibilities. It really depends on the gear you have and the circumstances of the recovery. Just try not to bunch up straps, have them twisted up, or be loaded up on any sharp edge. I've seen straps cut/rip in half very easily when used incorrectly. Rigging is a profession for a reason. I'm certainly not a professional rigger.

 

If you think that you will certainly be doing some recoveries, then you should look into some Dyneema rope. It's much easier to work with as it's round rope, not a flat strap. You can get the ends of the rope looped from the factory so that it will work just like a strap. Then use d-rings to attach it to anything else that you need. I don't remember where I got mine. It was online from a place like www.rope.com. It's not cheap, but you get what you pay for. The stronger it is, the more expensive it gets. I think I paid over $400 for my 100' 3/8" rope. But it has a tensile strength of something like 17,500#. I'm sure that you will not need that long of a length nor as great of a strength.

 

 

Also, snatch blocks could be very useful if the circumstances allow for it. Using snatch blocks can give you mechanical advantage and effectively reduce the load on the the rope allowing a much heavier object to be moved with rope rated for weight less than the object. That's a whole other discussion though and doesn't apply to using flat straps as snatch blocks will only work with wire/synthetic rope, which is round.

Edited by Dr1ft3r
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2 hours ago, Dr1ft3r said:

 

It depends on the circumstances. If they have a hitch, I would use one of those hitch d-rings that you have. You can also use another one of those yellow straps that you have (shorter length) and wrap it around a solid recovery point and connect the loops with a d-ring, then use that 30' strap to connect it to your vehicle. You could also attach a d-ring to the vehicle, if possible, and use the strap between that d-ring and your hitch d-ring.

Just make sure that you have d-rings big enough for the straps you intend to use. From the picture it looks like that d-ring is barely big enough to accommodate that 1 strap in the pic, maybe, but certainly not 2 of those. If the straps are bunched up in the d-ring then the strength of the strap is reduced. If you need 2 different straps, or 2 strap loops from one strap, of that width with that d-ring, then another option would be to attach a d-ring to each strap, then attach those 2 d-rings to the main d-ring. That will help keep them from bunching up. The strap loop should sit evenly in the saddle of the d-ring to achieve the rated strength

 

There's a lot of possibilities. It really depends on the gear you have and the circumstances of the recovery. Just try not to bunch up straps, have them twisted up, or be loaded up on any sharp edge. I've seen straps cut/rip in half very easily when used incorrectly. Rigging is a profession for a reason. I'm certainly not a professional rigger.

 

If you think that you will certainly be doing some recoveries, then you should look into some Dyneema rope. It's much easier to work with as it's round rope, not a flat strap. You can get the ends of the rope looped from the factory so that it will work just like a strap. Then use d-rings to attach it to anything else that you need. I don't remember where I got mine. It was online from a place like www.rope.com. It's not cheap, but you get what you pay for. The stronger it is, the more expensive it gets. I think I paid over $400 for my 100' 3/8" rope. But it has a tensile strength of something like 17,500#. I'm sure that you will not need that long of a length nor as great of a strength.

 

 

Also, snatch blocks could be very useful if the circumstances allow for it. Using snatch blocks can give you mechanical advantage and effectively reduce the load on the the rope allowing a much heavier object to be moved with rope rated for weight less than the object. That's a whole other discussion though and doesn't apply to using flat straps as snatch blocks will only work with wire/synthetic rope, which is round.

I need to test fit the strap. I haven’t taken it out of the package yet.  I know the end loops are covered with a tough material. I’ll check it out. Thanks for the info

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9 hours ago, Dr1ft3r said:

Also, snatch blocks could be very useful if the circumstances allow for it. Using snatch blocks can give you mechanical advantage and effectively reduce the load on the the rope allowing a much heavier object to be moved with rope rated for weight less than the object. That's a whole other discussion though and doesn't apply to using flat straps as snatch blocks will only work with wire/synthetic rope, which is round.

I would like to learn about this if you have the time.  I've heard of them but never used them.

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On 1/18/2024 at 10:43 AM, Jettech1 said:

I would like to learn about this if you have the time.  I've heard of them but never used them.

 

My time is very limited. But, if you have questions I'll try to answer them. I know enough for my needs. I'm certainly not an expert though. I was never taught about snatch blocks. I learned by reading on the internet, learning stuff at jobs and some common sense.

 

On 1/18/2024 at 4:30 AM, Pryme said:

I need to test fit the strap. I haven’t taken it out of the package yet.  I know the end loops are covered with a tough material. I’ll check it out. Thanks for the info


That strap is plenty big enough for any recovery job I can envision you trying to do. It's just a matter of attaching it. If the vehicle has dedicated recovery points, like the stock red hooks on the front of my AT4 truck, then that's where you want to attach if they are on the side of the vehicle you need to pull from (try to use the vehicle hitch receiver if available as well). If the vehicle has no recovery points, that's where it gets dicey. Know what you are doing or you may damage the vehicle trying to pull it. I know nothing about recovering vehicles without some form of recovery point as I've never tried to do it.

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