Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
20 minutes ago, TheRiver said:

 

😲🙄

Maybe I'm the minority but I've also never had a new car burn enough oil that it was even low enough to register.  I didn't check it because I did oil changes earlier than the manual recommended and thought that the techs would tell me if I was low, as would the computer (which obviously eventually it did).

Posted
8 hours ago, ero2 said:

58k

 

which is why I hate to trade it, but I just went out to it now and remote started as I walked up and there was quite a bit of ticking, which the dealer says is the fuel pump, not lifter related.

 

At at what mileage did it start using oil? 

Posted
13 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

At at what mileage did it start using oil? 

45k ish?  Right around there.

 

I’ve still got a bit of warranty, and I did call GM and it cannot be extended again.

 

I hate to think about trading it in, but lifters outside of warranty is what, like 9k to swap to non collapsible

Posted
1 hour ago, ero2 said:

45k ish?  Right around there.

 

I’ve still got a bit of warranty, and I did call GM and it cannot be extended again.

 

I hate to think about trading it in, but lifters outside of warranty is what, like 9k to swap to non collapsible

Pretty much around $3.5k if you DIY is worse case scenario and that's doing a tune up and buying your own HP tuners as well.  Go browse my thread a few down from here if you want an idea of what it takes to do it.  If you drop off at a dealership its north of $10k for that.

Posted (edited)
26 minutes ago, DK91105 said:

Pretty much around $3.5k if you DIY is worse case scenario and that's doing a tune up and buying your own HP tuners as well.  Go browse my thread a few down from here if you want an idea of what it takes to do it.  If you drop off at a dealership its north of $10k for that.

My local independent shop said about 9k with upgraded everything, so I guess that tracks.

 

I’m looking at the auto start stop/dfm disabler, but may be too late to do any good.  (https://a.co/d/fEQxHGM this one)

 

It sure sounds like any truck from any company is a crap shoot?

 

GM has lifters 

Toyota is replacing 200k engines so far

Dodge is having hurricane issues 

Nissan is no longer selling Titans right?

Ford is, well, Ford?

 

is there anything that’s safe anymore?  lol.

 

I was leaning towards swapping to a 25 Tundra but I’m looking a bit, even if it is lifters, I may be better just keeping it.

Edited by ero2
  • Like 1
Posted
6 minutes ago, ero2 said:

My local independent shop said about 9k with upgraded everything, so I guess that tracks.

 

I’m looking at the auto start stop/dfm disabler, but may be too late to do any good.

 

It sure sounds like any truck from any company is a crap shoot?

 

GM has lifters 

Toyota is replacing 200k engines so far

Dodge is having hurricane issues 

Nissan is no longer selling Titans right?

Ford is, well, Ford?

 

is there anything that’s safe anymore?  lol.

 

I was leaning towards swapping to a 25 Tundra but I’m looking a bit, even if it is lifters, I may be better just keeping it.

 

I feel like $9k is robbery still....   Id do it for $5k in my garage, lol.

Posted
2 hours ago, ero2 said:

45k ish?  Right around there.

 

I’ve still got a bit of warranty, and I did call GM and it cannot be extended again.

 

I hate to think about trading it in, but lifters outside of warranty is what, like 9k to swap to non collapsible

 

@richard wysong suggesting the PCV system is solid. However they do not malfunction for no reason. Blowby (loss of ring seal) overloads them early and when they plug, it is as Richard states. It is a bit of the chicken and the egg however.

 

Several possible scenarios. 

 

1.) Oil control ring and or land return passages plugged/plugging. This won't show on a compression check. 

2.) HPFP or injectors leaking into the sump will tank the viscosity and break the seal. It will show up on a UOA as a good dose of GC fuels. Over 2.5%

3.) Combination of the above two wear out the bore. This will also show up as large fuel dilution and knowing which witch is which can be difficult. It will show on a compression check.

4.) DLH coating on the rings failing. Pretty much a teardown to diagnose and repair. 

 

Auto RX used as directed will free those rings. That said if the bore is damaged that may not stop the consumption. 

 

I tired dong it in steps on a 2.4 to isolate and it took so long that the bores failed even though I fixed the issues of bad pump/injectors and freed the rings and installed a new PCV system. Doing them in concert won't answer any questions but it does give you a better change of success. Replace the PCV system components. Do a UAO, @Black02Silveradocan help with that. And while you wait on the results of the labs Auto Rx it per instructions. No shortcuts. After the rinse oil change use something line HPL Premium or AMSOIL SS and go 5W30. If this works you oil or your oil maintenance program failed you. 

 

Fresh air filter helps the PCV system. Fresh plugs is a good idea and have the coil function checked. 

 

That is all I have for you sir. Best wishes.....

 

I'm not telling you this will work. I'm telling you if you don't worse is what it gets. I've nursed that 2.4 since 80K and she is limping along at 266K and been a full time job keeping her running.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted
19 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

At at what mileage did it start using oil? 

 

At what mileage SHOULD he be checking oil level?????

Posted

It's a good idea to check it once a week unless there is a low level sensor, Most folks are too lazy to bother, myself included, the Caddy leaks oil but has a sensor so about the time it says check the oil the second time I just change it, The truck uses a quart between changes but gets checked once in a while. Again a vehicle that never sees the hi-way and does short trips not reaching operating temp for any significant amount of time should be using the severe service oil change intervals and as Grumpy stated the rings may be gummed up.Common occurance in my Caddy because even on the hi-way it's only turning 1200 rpm, GMs solution is Wide open throttle runs to exercise the rings and decarbonize, night and day difference in the way it runs after. My last Caddy was an earlier generation Northstar that burned 5 gallons of oil on a 1400 mile trip to Fla, after doing the WOT thing it only burned 2 gallons going home, GMs solution for that was replace the rings. Sold the car

Posted
1 hour ago, TheRiver said:

 

At what mileage SHOULD he be checking oil level?????

 

I check mine at fuel stops. Unless you've been looking from day one you don't know what is normal or when it starts. 

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
20 hours ago, ero2 said:

My local independent shop said about 9k with upgraded everything, so I guess that tracks.

 

I’m looking at the auto start stop/dfm disabler, but may be too late to do any good.  (https://a.co/d/fEQxHGM this one)

 

It sure sounds like any truck from any company is a crap shoot?

 

GM has lifters 

Toyota is replacing 200k engines so far

Dodge is having hurricane issues 

Nissan is no longer selling Titans right?

Ford is, well, Ford?

 

is there anything that’s safe anymore?  lol.

 

I was leaning towards swapping to a 25 Tundra but I’m looking a bit, even if it is lifters, I may be better just keeping it.

No these trucks are now made to throw away and get worse with each passing year IMO. We have already seen this progression with smaller appliances. When i was a kid a washing machine was a once every 20+ year purchase. Today if you get 5 years of use out of one, and that is top end line ones, you should feel lucky. One of the bad elements that have arrived with EV tech is manufactures will make far more money building these things to NOT last! You make them so unaffordable to repair that the only move that makes sense is complete replacement. Even better for manufactures and bad for customers is it will eventually completely eliminate the secondary market for the most part!

Edited by BIGDOGx
  • Like 1
Posted
9 minutes ago, BIGDOGx said:

No these trucks are now made to throw away and get worse with each passing year IMO. We have already seen this progression with smaller appliances. When i was a kid a washing machine was a once every 20+ year purchase. Today if you get 5 years of use out of one, and that is top end line ones, you should feel lucky. One of the bad elements that have arrived with EV tech is manufactures will make far more money building these things to NOT last! You make them so unaffordable to repair that the only move that makes sense is complete replacement. Even better for manufactures and bad for customers is it will eventually completely eliminate the secondary market for the most part!

Depending on what’s available warranty wise with CPO I may consider leasing. If it’s trouble free leasing and I can add an extended warranty to then buy it. I may try that. I have several family members that have bought VW products. They are happy with those so far. In December they have sign and drive. I got about two years before I hit 200K on the Odyssey. The maintenance to pass 200K would finance at least 2 years on a VW lease. Probably additional upkeep on the Odyssey would give me another year in lease payments covering the VW. I don’t have to worry about payments, I just like the running the numbers for fun. And the attraction of a shiny new SUV for traveling doesn’t hurt. People are placing bets in my family on the when I’m going to get the next one. It’s approaching 2 years with the Odyssey. I usually change something every two years. I don’t have the overwhelming urge yet. I passed on two so far that could have replaced the avalanche. Didn’t pull the trigger. 

Posted (edited)
3 minutes ago, KARNUT said:

Depending on what’s available warranty wise with CPO I may consider leasing. If it’s trouble free leasing and I can add an extended warranty to then buy it. I may try that. I have several family members that have bought VW products. They are happy with those so far. In December they have sign and drive. I got about two years before I hit 200K on the Odyssey. The maintenance to pass 200K would finance at least 2 years on a VW lease. Probably additional upkeep on the Odyssey would give me another year in lease payments covering the VW. I don’t have to worry about payments, I just like the running the numbers for fun. And the attraction of a shiny new SUV for traveling doesn’t hurt. People are placing bets in my family on the when I’m going to get the next one. It’s approaching 2 years with the Odyssey. I usually change something every two years. I don’t have the overwhelming urge yet. I passed on two so far that could have replaced the avalanche. Didn’t pull the trigger. 

I’ve had 2 Atlas’ now, and over the last 15 years 2 Passats and a Jetta and never an issue.  It’s funny that people always seem to say to stay away from them.

 

I normally don’t have this much trouble with decisions but I’m ultimately at, do I keep the Sierra, or is the oil thing a big enough issue to get out while I can and head to a Tundra or another brand.  Not sure anyone can truly answer that, but is why I’m struggling for sure.  Guess maybe the second part is what company is more likely to stand by their product?

 

Completely agree that nothing is made to last anymore!

Edited by ero2
Posted
9 minutes ago, ero2 said:

I’ve had 2 Atlas’ now, and over the last 15 years 2 Passats and a Jetta and never an issue.  It’s funny that people always seem to say to stay away from them.

 

I normally don’t have this much trouble with decisions but I’m ultimately at, do I keep the Sierra, or is the oil thing a big enough issue to get out while I can and head to a Tundra or another brand.  Not sure anyone can truly answer that, but is why I’m struggling for sure.  Guess maybe the second part is what company is more likely to stand by their product?

 

Completely agree that nothing is made to last anymore!

Tundra had some problems initially with the new V-6. From what I’ve read the stepped in and took care of the problem. Now they seem fine. I know one guy with a new one, he’s very happy with it. My brother in law bought his daughter a VW SUV for college graduation. He’s only owned large GM SUVs. He’s so impressed his next vehicle will be their largest SUV.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I agree with Tim.  As tech heavy as engines are these days, no way I’d be an early buyer of the new 6.6.  Of course, I bought my ‘26 Denali w/the 6.2 after dumping my Tundra with it’s defective 3.5 liter imploding engine disaster, so I’m a little gun-shy.  That said, my 6.2 has been rock solid.  I don’t drive it like I do my BMW Z4 M40i, but I don’t baby it either.  I got a V8 for a reason.  But I’m averaging 18 around town and 22 highway.  I have seen 24 highway as well when I wasn’t loaded up heavy.  Considering my Tundra with the twin turbo V6 only got 14.5 in town and 17 on the road, I’ll take the 6.2 all day, every day.  If I were you, I’d grab a ‘26 while you can.  Inventories are probably gonna start dropping and I’ll bet the deals will start looking sweeter as well.
    • I am curious if anyone has figured out a way to add an hard button AUX or 360 Camera switch to the center row of switches. I have a 2021 AT4, and want to split the hill decent button and add a 360 camera button so that you don't have to go into the center display and locate the camera functionality, etc...   My father's 2024 Yukon XL AT4 and it has a hard button, see below. I found this thread on the Yukons, but it seems like there may not be a part number for the 2021 sierras. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/255339-adding-hard-button-for-camera-on-2021/ Anyone else figured this out. Seems like it would need to be a custom switch!   I am getting ready to install the auto stop/start eliminator, so would be nice to knock them out at once.     Upvote1Downvote0Go to comments
    • Looks like the entire state is burning. 😬
    • Through the years it hasn't been my typical method as I tried to drop oil on an engine that was hot from having been worked, however that was not always practical and had to fire up a unit and let it warm up reasonably well and drop the oil when I had the time to do it but am referring to not only vehicles but a variety of farm equipment and highway tractors etc. However on a vehicle where one is crawling under it and the exhaust is nearby to ones body and if wanting to pull the plug without danger of being hit with boiling hot oil or attempting to remove a HOT oil filter, its sure safer and easier to not have everything smoking hot and can remove the filter right away when under the vehicle and let it all drain. Of course its not the end of the world if a bit of oil stays in the engine that might have eventually found its way out, I like to get out as much as possible but any oil changes that take place in shops would rarely be sitting around for very long at all before the plug is thrown back in and filter slapped on and oil poured in and sent out the door quick like. There would be very little time spent ( assuming they even did it ) in starting the engine with oil to fill the filter, then waiting to verify the level on the stick. A good reason to check ones oil level shortly after a shop changed the oil on a vehicle just to make sure its correct and to look under for any oil around the drain plug or filter. 
    • Cool to see another Vermonter!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...