Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi,

 

I have a 2015 Sierra truck with ~130k. Today, two things happened. 1) The temp gauge stopped working 2) The engine fans come on after I shut the engine off and remain on for 3-4 minutes. It's only 50 degrees outside. I've never heard these fans come on in the heat of the summer.

 

I assume these two things are somehow related, being they both started occurring at the same time.

 

The heater works as it always has. It puts out heat...but not as much as other vehicles I have owned.

 

Any ideas what is going on?

 

Thanks.

Posted
1 hour ago, fishnaked said:

Hi,

 

I have a 2015 Sierra truck with ~130k. Today, two things happened. 1) The temp gauge stopped working 2) The engine fans come on after I shut the engine off and remain on for 3-4 minutes. It's only 50 degrees outside. I've never heard these fans come on in the heat of the summer.

 

I assume these two things are somehow related, being they both started occurring at the same time.

 

The heater works as it always has. It puts out heat...but not as much as other vehicles I have owned.

 

Any ideas what is going on?

 

Thanks.

If you have never changed your thermostat, replace it with an OEM version, best place to start.

  • Like 1
Posted

When the thermostat on my 2016 failed 3 years ago and was sticking open, I noticed that the temp gauge would not go all the way to the 210 mark in the winter and although there was some heat, it wasn't what it should be. I first replaced it with a Motorrad aftermarket thermostat and within months, that failed and want opening all the way. I switched to a GM thermostat and haven't had any trouble since. So I agree with the above posted comment by @JimCost2014. But I also went with a 194⁰ GM thermostat instead of the stock 207⁰ one because I do occasionally tow and wanted to give the system to start getting the benefits of the radiator sooner. But if your temp gauge isn't moving at all then @CamGTP has the answer you need.

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
Posted

So I just had this issue. Fans on High, no movement of the temp gauge on the dash. Replaced Coolant Temp Sensor, no change. Replaced thermostat, no change. Interesting note; the engine temp could be read via data stream on the code reader, but the needle on the dash gauge never moved. Checked with code reader again, P0128 as expected. Attempted to clear codes and noticed that my scan tool read "erase command rejected". I have never seen a request rejected before. Went with the sure fire way to clear codes, disconnect the negative battery cable, wait, then reconnect. Verified that no codes were present with one more read before starting up. Everything worked after the hard reset. Temp gauge worked and agreed with what I was seeing on the scan tool and the fans were not running any more. Be sure to clear your fault codes to make the sensor/thermostat fix actually work.

  • Like 2
Posted
On 5/9/2026 at 3:48 PM, Eric G said:

So I just had this issue. Fans on High, no movement of the temp gauge on the dash. Replaced Coolant Temp Sensor, no change. Replaced thermostat, no change. Interesting note; the engine temp could be read via data stream on the code reader, but the needle on the dash gauge never moved. Checked with code reader again, P0128 as expected. Attempted to clear codes and noticed that my scan tool read "erase command rejected". I have never seen a request rejected before. Went with the sure fire way to clear codes, disconnect the negative battery cable, wait, then reconnect. Verified that no codes were present with one more read before starting up. Everything worked after the hard reset. Temp gauge worked and agreed with what I was seeing on the scan tool and the fans were not running any more. Be sure to clear your fault codes to make the sensor/thermostat fix actually work.

Just did this on my 2016 Yukon Denali, I had to disconnect the battery to reset it as well. I didn't replace the thermostat - just the sensor.

  • Like 2
Posted

I had this happen to my '14 Silverado with 89000 miles on it a couple of weeks ago.  I shut it off in my garage, but the fans kept running, so I undid the negative battery cable and the fans stopped.  I watched a few YouTube videos which recommended changing both the thermostat and temperature sensor.  I thought about doing the job myself, but I was sitting my granddaughter who couldn't walk due to an ankle injury.  A local shop wanted nearly $800 to do the job.  That sounded ridiculous so I followed the videos and did it myself in just an hour with cleaning up and wiping down the tools.  I did disconnect the battery's negative cable before starting the job.  The truck runs perfectly now!

  • Like 2
Posted
On 5/18/2026 at 1:33 PM, Northside said:

which recommended changing both the thermostat

Why? If it isn't broke... I've had exactly one fail across my and my family/acquaintances entire fleet in the last 40+ years.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...