Jump to content

NAV and 6 disk changer in a Silverado

linda

By linda
in Audio, Electronics & Software

Recommended Posts

linda Enthusiast

linda

Posted
  • Author
Posted

correct Mike, that harness is the "SLAVE" harness cable thats the same for all GM slave devices since 1998-2002, so we have to modify it a bit to work for us. What you do is plug the one end into your slave device (6 cd changer) then use the fancy "PINOUT" document that I made, to hook the other end to the head unit. The other end needs to have the pins pulled out of the connector and inserted in their correct spots in the 12 way harness on the back of your head unit. The 24 way harness is your main, that includes speaker outs, data bus, voltage, etc. The 12 way harness is your "AUX" input, its used for OnStar, slave devices, and i think thats where XM would tie in also, but im not sure about that one yet. Im still looking for info on the XM hookup. My truck being a Silverado, does not even have an option from the factory for a 6 disk changer in the console. So NO, i had no harness for the changer, just was lucky enough to fall in good with a few guys who gave me pinouts and schematics so i could create my own harness.

  • Replies 923
  • Created
  • Last Reply
masterp2 Enthusiast

masterp2

Posted
Posted
44020005.jpg

Linda, is this the same HU you had, or did you have the changer HU? This is a CD changer control head, agreed? It is the same head I have in a 04 2500HD. It is also the exact same HU in the Denali, that has the seperate 6 disc in-dash unit. Why wouldn't the harness be a straight across plug into the HU, like a Denali factory settup?

 

Poonis, do you have factory XM or DVD? Anything in this changer install other than just plugging in the new harness?

 

Michael

linda Enthusiast

linda

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Mike, the problem with the 03' and newer radios is they use a data bus (LAN) for controling functions. Functions such as "track skip", "NEXT CD", "fast forward", "volume", and pretty much all the steering wheel functions are executed through the data bus wire. 2002 and older do not use this type of communication. The 2003 changers use 6 wires: (even though there are 9 in the wire harness)

 

1. +voltage

2. ground

3. audio right +

4. audio left +

5 audio common (-)

6 Data bus

 

Now, only the audio wires tie into the "AUX" harness, the rest are intertwined into the main radio harness to pick up the voltage, ground and data bus wires. So you can see that a straight through harness is not possible anymore. Even the Denali, if you were to trace out the wires in the slave harness, you would see its not a straight through connection anymore.

 

Also, poonis did not just plug in a new harness to get this changer working, i showed him the document to follow for the soldering of the voltage wires and data bus wire. Ask him about his install.

 

Yes, that IS a CD changer control head so to speak. In the sense that it has the ability to have a slave unit hooked to it. The difference is, like i explained above, you cant utilize a direct connection to this cd changer anymore via the old direct connect harness. The BCM has to recognize the changer now, through the data bus system. My HU was a 6 cd changer head unit, which is incapable of controling a slave device. The BCM is now in charge of all the goings on in the cabin of your truck, this means door chimes, radio, fog lights, high beams, AMP, slave devices, and a bunch more im not mentioning. The hook up for the 2003 slave device is fairly simple, it just requires tapping into the voltage wires and the data bus wire now, where before, you didnt have to do this. I hope this made a little sense, i seem to have difficulty describing what im trying to say sometimes.

poonis Enthusiast

poonis

Posted
Posted
Also, poonis did not just plug in a new harness to get this changer working, i showed him the document to follow for the soldering of the voltage wires and data bus wire. Ask him about his install.

Michael, thanks for the info on PAC.

 

The cd changer installed in my car, I had to solder three wires to one hu harness and plug three more into the second hu harness from the aux harness. And I wouldn't have been able to figure this out without help from Linda. I tried directly connecting the cd changer harness into the hu, but I wasn't able to purchase or find such harness. I tried several GMC dealers to get the Denali harness and they couldn't find the part. I even got a Denali VIN number and told (actually lied) to the dealer that I needed for my Deanli and they told me the same. I also contected several internet GMC part sellers and I was once again told such harness did not exist. I guess GM want's to keep the cd changer to Denali's and Escalade's. :cheers:

 

But, with help from Linda, the install was practically easy as just connecting two harness together. Not to mention making sure I had the correct cd changer. I bought my changer from eBay before I knew that it's almost impossible to buy the orignal Denali cd changer harness. So, I just lucky to be a member of this forum. Besides looking at the part number, it looks like the 03 cd changers have metal tabs on the side and the 02 cd changers have plastic guides on the side.

 

By the way, I don't have the factory DVD. I do have XM but it's not activated.

masterp2 Enthusiast

masterp2

Posted
Posted

Crazy, man, crazy. :cheers:

 

Linda, do all your steering wheel controls work as they did stock? Can you "navigate" with them?

linda Enthusiast

linda

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yup, everything works like a charm. All controls for the changer and NAV work perfectly through the steering wheel controls just as they would if they came from the factory like this. You would never know this was added after the fact, if you didnt know Silverado's didnt come with the NAV and changer.

masterp2 Enthusiast

masterp2

Posted
Posted

So what are your thoughts on replacing speakers? Those bose drivers usually have the build quality of paper airplanes. Do you think that quality components would provide another margin of improvement?

linda Enthusiast

linda

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i would say most definately......but you need to pick up something that has a relatively low RMS rating....otherwise the BOSE AMP wont be enough to power them. It would make a positive sound improvement im sure.

crookedpat Enthusiast

crookedpat

Posted
Posted

So does the nav unit have to be in the Sierra Denali for the dealer to reprogram it?

Ive got everything i need expect for putiing it into the truck.

linda Enthusiast

linda

Posted
  • Author
Posted

all the programming does is tweak the sound a bit....i have found that there is not that much of a noticable difference. I would install it and just let it go without the programming. You have everything?

 

1. head unit (radio)

2. AMP (upgrade AMP)

3. antenna

4. Microphone (not really needed)

5. AMP harness wiring switched out?

6. VSS wire from your instrument cluster ran to the HU

7. class II data wire hooked up?

 

I see you have the sierra denali, so that MAY come with the correct AMP for the NAV. If thats the case, you can eliminate having to do 2,4,5,7. Check your glove compartment sticker for the RPO "Y91" option to see if you have the correct AMP.

rgardjr Enthusiast

rgardjr

Posted
Posted
I see you have the sierra denali, so that MAY come with the correct AMP for the NAV. If thats the case, you can eliminate having to do 2,4,5,7. Check your glove compartment sticker for the RPO "Y91" option to see if you have the correct AMP.

I think he was asking about reprogramming the headunit for the theftlock. I know that my '03 Sierra Denali has a different amp than my cousin's '03 Silverado-we both tried to install the PAC C2A-GM24 worked in my truck and not in his. When I talked to PAC the explanation I got was that the trucks had different amps.

masterp2 Enthusiast

masterp2

Posted
Posted

For those interested. Found the Nav HU distributor selling these for $1245 shipped, NEW. Better than EBAY. (800) 433-9657. The other parts you have to get thru GM.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • KARNUT
      Trading 7.3 (Godzilla) for G.M.C gas

      By KARNUT · Posted

      My nephews 7.3 got noisy right around 100K miles. While replacing the engine he drove his old 6.0 Chevy that had over 200K miles on it. It an old reliable backup. I haven’t been around the old shop lately. I’m curious to find out if there using the new GM heavy duty gas.
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      I don't know if you or anyone enjoys it or not but, why not share it. It's GM "truck" related and we're in the right place to discuss that 😉 I'm also working on some creative writing skills, I'm not quitting my day job to pursue that, either!   As I said, I've hit a wall because I'm not making any progress, and the progress is the fun part for me.   The idler pulley and EGR valve came in. Against better judgement, I went out there last night and put both of them in. I was able to get a nut on the back of the bolt on the side with the broken flange. There's enough flange still there that I can get that side of the EGR to snug down. It's not perfect, it's not "right", but this is the fix I have for now. If I decide to keep the rig, I talked to a guy locally who will sell me a complete intake for $100. If it's my truck, a broken flange like that would bug me too much. Yes, I'm crazy. But I embrace it.   Pulley on, EGR installed, started the truck. Great...still have a pulley squeaking like mad. That was the first disappointment. I thought I had pinpointed the problem. Before I replaced it, I sprayed the back of that pulley with PTFE and it would shut up for about 30 seconds. Is the squeak actually the belt? I'm frustrated.   SO then I decided why not disappoint myself twice, so I took it for a spin and sure enough, the CEL set for P0401 insufficient EGR flow again.   I had some extra time, so when I arrived home, I decided to ask AI about my EGR code. We had an interesting conversation.   I asked how to tell if my MAP sensor is bad and if that could be setting an EGR code since a bad MAP may not be sensing the requisite drop in manifold pressure when the EGR activates. I gave it the MAP value at idle and it told me to blip the throttle hard and watch the MAP reading. It said no, the values appear normal and it's reactive to pressure changes, and then instructed me to test voltage at the harness. I don't think it's the MAP sensor. Interesting, though, I gave it MAP reading values in inHg, and it thought I was using PSI, so I had to correct it. AI is a very dangerous tool if you aren't treating it like the machine that it is.   Then it walked me through testing the EGR and harness. It took me down an interesting path. It was referencing a gray wire and a white wire so I told it I can't tell the difference on my harness because it's dirty and old and both could be white or gray, I'm not sure. So it gave me a more accurate description of the ABCDE pins on the connector and started referencing pins instead of colors. Helpful.   The EGR harness has 12v power, and it also has 5v reference power from the PCM. What I'm unclear on is there's a ground wire and I thought AI had said that one of my tests revealed the ground in the harness was likely bad and it instructed me to wire a test ground. I got distracted and navigated away from the AI conversation, and when I went back and asked for clarification it said I must have misunderstood. (how rude- next time I'm saving the conversation!)   But I think it was onto something. I recall NOT getting 12v when I tested the power wire to the ground wire, but I did when I tested the power wire, grounding the voltmeter to the engine block. AI said no, the ground wire is actually for the PCM, that's how it commands the EGR on by grounding it and so the circuit should be open with the key on (i.e. EGR off). But I think there's also a static/overall ground that should always be grounded, and if that's bad, then the EGR isn't activating when the PCM commands it on, and thus setting the code.   There's a bunch of other tests it suggested, back-probing with the EGR plugged in and engine running. I need to get some time to focus, and not just tinkering after a long day.  
    • kylant
      Trading 7.3 (Godzilla) for G.M.C gas

      By kylant · Posted

      the 7.3 lifter issue is real, not few and far between.  my 6.6 gas does not use oil.  the 7.3 with 4.30 gears pulled hills better and felt better off the line. the 6.6 gets the job done though. mpg sucks
    • kylant
      Remote Start Noise 2024 2500 HD Gas

      By kylant · Posted

      are you talking about the loud whooshing, grinding type noise? mine does it too
    • Donstar
      Slate Electric Truck

      By Donstar · Posted

      I am a huge fan of the Slate.  (SUV for her, base pickup for me.)  Unfortunately, there are no plans to sell in Canada but maybe this will change.  I think if/when Ford offered a high range. EV Maverick, it would be my first choice.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...