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There we go. Wondering how long this would take.

Today? Drove it like I stole it because gas is like $1. Hammer down!

Great job! Persistence and some hard work saved you $1400.00. Most don't try because they assume they will lose the battle before it even starts.

I will make sure and take a pic or two when I get the headers mounted, but as a little teaser, here's a pic from before the ceramic coating. This is the driver's side header. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

very nice seen those kits for a while... i like their soccer mom tahoe will be a fun truck when you get done. should be real fun on 1/8 or 1/4 mile track too something to tangle w/ the homemade lightnings ?

It's only a couple million Americans. NBD.

Very cool!!! What type of HP are you looking at when all is done?

Co-developed, yes. But the GM and Ford transmissions are each built in their own individual plants with entirely different programming and controls. What happens in a Ford Exploder means nothing for what happens in a GM pickup. I am as shocked as anyone that GM got the 10 speed so right and Ford still has it so wrong, but it’s 100% true.

So that's it for today. Tomorrow, we'll finalize the wire hanging over the passenger battery. The good news is, compared to Today, that looks SUPER simple. Be thinking about what you want to power with your switches. I'm thinking: 1) Relay for onboard air compressor 2) Rock lights 3) Crazy-bright backup light I can also leave on for when we arrive late at campsites with the camper 4) I don't know! Maybe some of those neat looking lights that go above the side steps? Time for a second beer - you deserve it!

OK get off the floor and grab a beer. Take a break. Still a couple steps to go, then you have to put it all back together of course... ... I'll wait. I'm not much of a drinker myself, but I need to make some burgers for dinner.

Washed, polished and waxed today Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why go conventional in an unconventional world, why go part (full Synthetic) synthetic when you can go 100% Synthetic! Amsoil 100% Synthetic is the best oil for engine protection, the rest is snake oil. Sent from Above

Marty, you're the exception because your choices have been well thought out and also tailored to your driving profile. I guess my Blackstone report doesn't mean much to Mike.

For the most part correct. Getting the Dexos license assures you of a few things: 1.) It is a full synthetic meaning Group III or above base oil 2.) Has a NOACK under 13% (SAE spec is 15%) Your motor won't fall apart if you use an SN Plus Conventional IF YOU CHANGE IT OFTEN ENOUGH.

Pepper should have dropped dead by now. 0W20 since early on. Spec is 5W30. No issues, no oil usage. Red Line, what she's been on most of her life, yea...not approved most of that time. Still not an SN=Plus in the HP line. They have added a black bottle version that is SNPlus and Dexos approved. It is not an ester however. Tis a Group III/PAO. Many other factors at play and these sorts of fella reporting 'filter' their information to set the table for a cause MOST of the time. Truth is hard to come by me thinks. Recently went back to 5W30 after completing making a 100K mile point on both damage and efficiency.

I used to believe that and learned the hard way. My motor was a bit noisy using Mobil One and seemed awfully thin. Then I came across a new oil last year on ACDelco's website for the aluminum LS engines and decided to try some. At the end of the second oil change on the new stuff I sent off a sample to Blackstone for analysis which is posted earlier in this thread. Immediately noticeable was the motor quieted down and she picked up an easy 1/2 mile MPG, especially at low speed. And to my other point, we have seen on these forums guy with AFM problems attributed to them using oil that was not Dexos approved. Doesn't make sense to me but I don't know oil like the engineers or Marty!

Make sure whatever you use meets the Dexos specs listed in your Owner Manual, in the recommended viscosity and quantity, and change it by the Oil Life Indicator interval, if not sooner. It is my understanding that any motor oil that meets the current Dexos specs has to be "full synthetic". Some on here do their first oil and filter change really soon, with the idea that they're helping to remove any metal shavings, etc, leftover from the manufacturing process. The GM Dexos II and Dexos-D oil at the dealer are actually top-rated. Some on here fight endlessly for AMSoil, Royal Purple, and RedLine, but those can be hard to find unless you buy online. If you're running a diesel engine, many on here like Shell Rotella diesel engine oil, or if you're running a gas engine, many on here like Shell Rotella Gas Truck motor oil, both of which are available at discount stores and auto parts stores. I switched to Shell Gas Truck after using Quaker State Ultimate Durability and Pennzoil Platinum. The new AC Delco "e-core" oil filters (the ones that end with the letter "E") are of questionable construction, with cardboard end caps and filtering material wrapped in a plastic cage--changes made for cheaper manufacturing and easier recycling over better filtering. After much research, I use Wix oil filters now (same as NAPA Gold or Platinum).

Not for long! These forums are full of posts of folks with AFM problems and the usual common theme on the low mileage ones is that they used the wrong oil, either by weight or not GM approved.

I know you want to keep the discussion going and like to keep it interesting. You make and receive some good points but know not everyone interprets information in the same manner. I am glad most leaders take this threat seriously and are directing their citizens to behave in an unselfish manner. As I have suggested before, I find the global response impressive. There are situations where we need to be cognoscente of our responsibilities to others and on a larger scale. My neighbour has this posted outside of her house, "The world has come together by staying apart." We are just at the beginning of this crisis and some have yet to take it seriously. However. I believe most have gone beyond making comparisons to flu or car accidents statistics and are taking this pandemic seriously. Adopting a mindset that this will be a threat for an extended period of time and doing our part to slow down/eliminate the spread is the best we can do for our fellow citizens.

It cooled like crazy home. I hit the front with water with the RPM steady at 2K. Low pressure gauge stays steady. Looking like dirty condenser or faulty fan. Strange no water temperature increase. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s a firm ride but not jarring. Rides a bit firmer than my dads ram 1500 with the carli fox kit but it feels less rough than the stock rancho garbage. definitely rides a little softer than my 2006 Tundra with the TRD suspension did as well (all being compared on i-35 in austin)

Trim plates went well, looks like if i hadn’t done them i’d be trimming the liner. here’s a picture of the angles on the drivers side Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I like the fact stuff doesn't slide with spray in, I had plastic drop in and everything would be sliding around in back while driving....paint cans opening up, heavy stuff smashing tailgate for me it wasn't good....but again it depends how you use your truck.....you may want stuff to slide really easy it could be beneficial to some

yeah its kind of pain....line x quoted me like $425 for basic and $525 for their best one which is supposedly really strong and lots of praise.....but yeah I have to drop it off and wait 4 hrs.....its nice to drive off with everything done but not so nice to have liner peeling so that can be hassle too....I have seen quite a few where people had peeling issue when I was looking at doing this, but everyone said line x was superior product so idk.....where I live it probably wouldn't matter but some of you where weather is drastic and how you use truck may or may not be an issue

It should should like angels singing and the exhaust should be perfumed, since Amsoil was used. ? Are you possibly talking about the two-stage oil pump sound?

Thanks for the info. I may just get the bed rug. Had that on my last two trucks and was awesome. If you ever kneeled in the bed the rug is the way to go. I might be waiting for a while anyway with GM not productive with trucks now. I have time to think about it. I like forums, people have honest opinions and is very helpful.

So it basically get the same as a 6.0 if not worse.lol. I guess on the flip side it is making more hp/tq but it’s also using 3.73’s instead of 4.10’s. Seems like more coulda been brought to the table.

I hear ya....I have done this numerous times so am little more careful how I spend my money...mostly tho with racebikes, I built them up and sold them but always for less than what I put in but more than stock.....really I was moments away from going to get these kings, I mean literally on the road and it just hit me of all times I did before....and I know they are nice, and now am looking to trade out for 2500 (which originally I wanted just no deals at time)….so if this works out glad I didn't do it......but if 100% going to keep truck for awhile, I don't think you can do better than these.....ive ridden in king setups...granted they were a lil different but one thing I can say about kings is PLUSH....very controlled and super smooth....if you have coin and plan on keeping the vehicle w/o question I wouldn't hesitate....yeah its bit of inconvience to take em off after 50-100k but you will get essentially brand new set back for fraction of cost, and can tweak it if you prefer it a bit different......throwaways are in a different category....if your not that sensitive or care save your money, but if your very articulate and want the best and can notice subtleties its totally worth it.....like saying goes the best you know is the best you've ridden.....and its so true

Polish the face plate out today I’m liking the combination so far!

That's it for today. Neither end of the main wire is connected to anything - and that's ok for now. Tomorrow we'll start discombobulating the dash. There are a lot of pieces to remove. If you feel overwhelmed by what you saw today, you'll never make it through tomorrow. Stay tuned!

Now you're going to finish pushing the wire into the cab through the grommet you cut ealier. This is a frustrating step - hang in there you'll get it. Push the end of the wire into the grommet you cut. You won't get very far, because there's some foam on the other side blocking you. Unfortunately you're going to have to push as much as you can until it stops - other wise you won't be able to reach it from the inside. Now, open the door, get on the floorboard and look up: This is looking up, and to the right, of the steering column where it goes through the firewall. Where I'm pointing there, that's where the wire should come through. I had to go back and forth several times, fishing for the wire with my fingers, pushing from the engine bay side, until I got my fingers on the wire. You may find it easier to do this with some help, but I managed. I had to pull the foam out of the way, then go back to the engine bay, push the wire, blah blah, until I got enough to pull it through. Once you get it through, route it above the heater outlet, and point it towards the parking brake control - this picture is looking straight up from the floor. Finally, don't close off the firewall opening yet. Unfortunately, whatever you're going to wire to this switch ALSO has to come through that same opening you made for the power wire. (Which sucks- they should have put this next bit under the hood!)

OK now you're going to run the wire across the top of the firewall. This part of the wire has silver heat wrap on it. Mine also had 4-5 "loops" that help you secure the wire to the firewall. Using great care, separate the plastic tabs already on your upper firewall from the firewall itself. The picture shows how to lift the little tab on the top of main tab. When you do this (DON'T CUT IT JUST LIFT) the main tab will come all the way out of the upper firewall. When you're done, the wire will be running across the engine bay, drooping over the passenger battery, and hanging out there where you cut the grommet behind the oil filler cap - like this: (Note that I left off the last grommet by the battery - I will do that last - assuming I remember!)

I'm going to tackle this in three steps: 1) Installing the 10-ga wire from the passenger battery thru the firewall 2) Installing the electrical box under the kickpanel 3) Connecting the 10-ga wire to the passenger battery

OK - first a stern warning. This installation isn't exactly for the faint of heart. You'll be taking apart your dash, maybe more than some would like. Also, when you'r working under the hood, be CERTAIN that you place your phone somewhere it won't fall into the engine bay. I wasted 20 minutes fishing mine out from UNDER the intercooler. Finally, I did not install the kickpanel or switches themselves into my truck - they were already there. If you have to replace your kickpanel with a new one with the switches, my guide does not list these steps. You have been warned!

Good News. I just got a call from the dealership. Apparently there was a revision to bulletin N192265660 released today and now my VIN is included. (Maybe GM was listening after all, but I doubt I had anything to do with it) Here was my message to GM earlier this week: Good Morning GM Customer Care, As advised I just spoke with (Dealer info omitted). He is now up to speed on my repair request/status. He is aware the vehicle has been diagnosed and parts have been ordered. All that needs to be determined now is, who is going to cover the cost, as I believe the customer should not be stuck with the $1,400 bill. As I stated before this is clearly an issue that should be covered 100% by GM under Notice N192265660. I understand my VIN is not listed, but it absolutely should be, based on the written recall symptoms, diagnosis, and photos. Please elevate my concern as needed to gain additional over site and/or audit of the recall database. Also, as I’ve mentioned before, I’ve owned 7 GM/Chevy trucks over the past 20 years (3 of which were purchased from (Dealer info omitted), and never once have I put in a claim like this. To that end, this situation has certainly caused me to rethink my loyalty. This is a blatant safety issue that could result in glass shattering on my child or even fire. I believe GM needs to step up and cover these repairs 100%, period! Please review and advice how I should proceed. Bottom line, keep hounding GM and your Dealership.

HDC is different and separate from grade braking. HDC uses vehicle brakes and grade braking uses the transmission.

Picked up my truck last night. Everything looks good, body shop did a great job, and believe me I inspected it... They said they replaced the rear window but also discovered a leak in the front A-pillar where the sunroof drain wasn’t properly connected. Also noticed the carpet and padding was wet so they replaced that and all the carpeting. I guess I should say thank you that they actually took the time to inspect everything and replace what needed to be but REALLY.... Why do we spend $60k and buy brand new trucks? It’s supposed to rain for the next couple days so I guess we’ll see. Fingers crossed... Btw, the service rep was very apologetic and felt really bad, even though none of it was HIS fault. Nonetheless he gave me the next 4 oil change/tire rotations for free. A nice gesture...

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Pssshhhh no. They don’t even replace them when they are cracked and leaking.

I used AMSOIL in an older vehicle because I read it was good stuff. I didn't keep the vehicle long after that so haven't the experience of seeing the benefit, which I do not doubt. I too am all in on the best oils and cold starts, heat etc. I tow a little, (3200lbs) or so, most of it during the dead of winter. I believe that maintenance is the key not only to longevity but also to performance. My question ref the transmission was specific to the shifting issues with the 8spd. If I can mitigate the problem by switching out the Mobil to AMSOIL, I will do it and the engine oil and filters too. I love this truck of mine and the 6.2 is smile maker.

That looks really good! Kind of a cross between the 18 and 19 T1 in appearance.

Intake was my thought too,does the motor skip from the second you start it? just thinking,open loop fine or not

Just a pic from this winter, putting her to work making money Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just got back home after my wife's surgery and have completed extending my camera cables so I could swap the trailer plug with the video cable connectors from the bumper to the bed. It was a success and am very happy with the results and hope this helps everyone that tows a goose neck or fifth wheel. I purchased the cables from PASTERNACK (www.pasternack.com) 866-727-8376, Sales Person was Derek Burkett with the following part numbers. The last two digits are the length. I ordered 36" which worked great, but some folks may want to order another 12". The total cost including taxes and shipping was less than $100. a. Rear view camera cable (black) PE3W08444-36, description. Black FAKRA Jack to FAKRA Plug Cable Using LMR-100 Coax. b. Inside camera cable (Water Blue which is a universal cable to connect to the Orange cable) PE3C2779-36, description. Water Blue FAKRA Jack to FAKRA Plug Cable Using LMR-100 Coax. To install you will need to remove the bumper plug and the bed plug. The plugs have a metal squeeze clip that you need to press from the backside, the bumper can be accessed from behind the bumper and bed plug will require you to remove the rear taillight to access the rear of the bed plug. Your owners manual explains on how to remove the rear taillights. On the bumper plug video cables you will need to slide the red clips back and then push down on the release tab to release the jack from the plug. Next on the 7 pin connector you will slide the light grey clip back and then push down on the release tab to release the 7 pin connector (I found it easier to completely remove the grey clip due to access). I installed the bed plug first which will require you to remove some of the spray-on bed liner and make adjustments to the metal squeeze clips to accommodate the Pyle National Plug and the thicker bed wall. It makes it easier to do a test fit before applying cables. I spent many hours searching and calling, but I couldn't find anyone that would supply waterproof connectors, so you will need to tape these up to keep out moisture. The pictures will tell the story and I did finish up by using cable ties to secure the cables to the 7 pin cable harness from the bed plug to the bumper plug.

I traded off my 2017 LTZ two days ago on a 2020 RST with the 2.7 and so far I love it. I'm averaging about 20.5 or so through 200 miles. 70/30 hwy/city miles. The torque is fantastic, It honestly feels quite a bit more responsive and zippy than my previous 5.3. That had the 8 speed and I noticed all of the shit people complained about, hard shifts, etc. It was never a big deal to me but it Doesn't seem to happen as much in the 2.7 albeit in a smaller sample size. I tow a boat about 10 times a year, and that's the extent of it. Honestly anything over 7000lbs always gave me pause anyway in a half ton so I don't anticipate it being an issue. Frankly I tested the payload rating FAR more in my old trucks hauling wood and cement etc than I ever did the towing capacity that's actually a selling point for me on the 2.7l. Someone posted earlier about how it just drives really nice and just kind of floats from point A to point B. Couldn't agree more so far.

I am averaging 22.1 mpg at less than 1500 miles mixed driving.

It's even more troubling that the 4.3 reaches peak torque at 39,000 rpm ? lol so long j-ten-ner

^^^^^^This guy would know for sure.

Installed everything myself. These fronts were a b***h. Removed UCA, steering, sway bar, just to fit. Ball Joint was a pain to separate from the knuckle. But it's beautiful. Discount Tire price match walmart for a good deal on 295 55 20 Rubs on full lock 5100s all around

Yeah so don't fvck with me!!!! Hahaaaa.....JK! I threw some carpet and cardboard over the engine and crawed my fat ass over it all. BTW 6' RT