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Added new security system.

Let’s see, I’ve been busy with this truck. New steering wheel Pedal commander Borla S-Type exhaust Airaid intake and high flow filter JTL catch can Getting ready to do these when not so cold: 2” level Yukon Dinali instrument cluster swap Maybe Katzkin leather upgrade New wheels and tires 12.1” nav replacement

Damn I really want to do this but kinda hate having to take my mirrors off again! Looks badass bro

Hello everybody, I just recently bought a 2017 Silverado Z71 Crew Cab Short Box. It was a 1 owner with 21K miles. So far I have zero complaints and have it sitting in driveway as stock as the day it rolled off the assembly line(except for windows tints but those don't count). This will change in time Future plans include either a level or ~3.5" lift(haven't decided yet), Bilstein or Eibachs(still undecided), exhaust (been looking into corsa or Borla s type), tires have been super stressful in deciding what I want to do (I have had BFG KO2 and Duratracs on my Jeep Commander and truthfully I loved them both)....I just wanted to post an introduction to the forum...ill have better pictures when the temps are above the teens Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

I put a 790 CCA NAPA Legend battery in a couple months ago. It turned over for about 6-7 seconds before it fired up this morning. Been sitting all weekend. It turned over fairly fast considering.... BTW the long crank to start is normal when it gets this cold. Cam said so.[emoji23] Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Grumpy Bear, yes over 5% fuel dilution with 3000 K miles on the oil. Doing the math at 5%, that's 6 ounces of gas in 3.7 quarts of oil. Took the car to the dealer and Honda of America said there is nothing wrong. No CEL or stored codes so its OK. Also Colorado isn't considered a cold climate. This relates to the law suit for 2106 2018 1.5L turbos. Traded the Honda CR-V in on a 2019 Hyundai Santa Fe Ultimate. 1 Owner lease with 22595 miles. 2.4 L non turbo. Yes, I bought used again. Saved $15 K over new with price, taxes, title and insurance. Another reason for buying used is living on dirt roads now. This is quite an upgrade. Nice ride, quieter, lots of features.

I’ve only had it two weeks - Tailgate letters and step bars added since

29 million people in the state of Texas and a little snow storm puts the 'grid' flat on it's arse. Let's plug in 10 million more cars/truck/busses. Yep, we're ready for all electric transportation.

Changed out the puddle lights to the bowtie. Not quite properly oriented but still look damn good even in lit areas. Will have to wait until tomorrow to see how it looks in sunlight.

Can I have your Tahoe? Nice truck! Gotta love that old 2-door big Blazer type vehicle. I've had 2 of them and wish I had kept them. Possibly in a year or two I will be on the hunt for another one.

You don’t need any additives if you use a quality DEXOS GEN 2 oil. I am using Shell Rotella Gas Truck 5W30 with Baldwin filters on a 4500-5000 mile oil change interval. Oil and filters are cheap compared to the investment in your 2500/3500 HD Gas truck! ??

Have the vacuum pump checked as well, another known part to fail on the early K2"s.

Electric cars? Here in Texas. Wind farms off line. We get 23 percent of our power from them, frozen. Nuke plants off line. Even with the abundance of natural gas. There isn’t enough because of poor planning. Worry too much about green energy. So here some 1 million plus people without power in central - south Texas. 7 degrees for the low tonight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

the tires on the Silverado are square and not round? That explains a lot, no wonder there are so many problems with the trucks??

If you're going to replace the lifters and trays, there's no way I'd replace them with the same failure prone parts. I'd go with non-AFM lifters, cam, etc, tune the AFM out and be done with the entire AFM fiasco

Grandfather farmed with a team of Morgan. Dad with a tractor. Those that stayed with it are now just along for the ride. Grandpa got his news from the paper and Chautauqua. Dad radio then TV. Me, TV and now the internet. What's next?

Blacked out Chevy air bag emblem. Carbon fiber.

My parents' baseline for media technology would be his family gathering around a radio. My beginnings recall the first TV in our home. It is fun to think of the growth in this area my grandchildren will be able to reminisce about in their senior years! This weekend I upgraded our TV's to wireless cable. This involves little boxes you can Velcro to the back of your screen and no coaxial. Your remote doesn't need to be pointed in any particular direction to operate and will provide you the opportunity to record six shows while watching another. You can talk to the remote or use the push buttons. Any show I record on one TV will be available on the other TV's in my house. The most amazing thing about this recent project is that very few people will see this as incredible! I've had an interest in "electronics" since I was 8 years old. My father gave me a dedicated corner in the basement to pursue and explore my interest and he would bring me old tube type radios and TV's to dissect. An early lesson I recall is that if you put your screwdriver in the right place of a tube TV, you'll be blown to the floor! I continue to make full use of my spare time. I don't want my grandchildren feeling like Judy and Elroy Jetson visiting Fred Flintstone when the border opens up!

Absolutely! It works just as good in 115f too......

That were 0W* oil comes in handy

Ebay $250. No heated version.

DEF tank and the DEF feed line to the injector are all heated. DEF freezes as 11F/-11C. It won't start DEF dosing until the DEF is un-frozen. Fuel tank has a heater for the fuel as well. Those are all ECM controlled, no "external" plugs. Long idling. After the two attempts using the remote start, you'd have to turn it on, set the park brake and shift in to neutral. These trucks have a run timer when in park to shut it off after 1/2 hour of idle time. Leaving it in neutral overrides this timer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z75DPWP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ..but you might want to check with "lapoolboy" before you purchase these to make sure your not getting "ripped off".

There are two cameras. A rear vision cam. And a bed/cargo cam. The latter is part of the infotainment system. The former is the one in discussion here. He asked about the cargo camera, which wont work with the rear mirror.

I have the truxedo lopro rollup cover and the napier bed tent and they fit together. The tent fitting over the cover as it rolls up takes a little adjusting but it will work. However, the cover rolled is on a section that unclips and can be taken off and tossed in the back seat to make things easier.

Yea but you live in California [emoji2957] Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

I told you to get your longjohns ready. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Took her out for alil, crazy how quick the weather changed!!!

no, only that you have traction

Start ordering stuff now you might get it by May Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Found a big mound

I installed a Phillips wireless charger on the under side of my center console last year. It’s very convenient to be able to have two places to charge our phone’s without wires. This mod only requires a torque T15 screw driver, utility knife, hot glue or epoxy. The whole mod only takes about 1 hour to do. I did run my power to the USB port in the center console. If you want to direct wire it then it will take some more time to install .

Been following this for months, and have had the re-seal done so far. Mine's been dry since this work, but am curious.... Maybe a dumb question, but would the solid window be problem free if the spoiler bolts are this big of an issue? Not sure I fully understand how these 3 things inter-play....

I have been creeping in the shadows for the last few weeks or so all over this forum checking out different builds/ideas lol. One question i haven't been able to find anywhere is about the Z71 badge and seeing your truck threw me for an even bigger loop. I thought that the 2018s had the Z71 badge on the doors and 2014s-2017s had it on the side of the bed. So is this something you did(I know you mentioned your was stock but didn't know if that included such a minor mod)? If not, was there a reason some had the badge on the door vs a sticker on the bed? Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

I'd say it's not a big deal. Most people won't look at what it had factory unless it doesn't make sense for it to LTZ or HC with cloth seats cause somebody wanted to swap them to a new WT they bought or something. If it's an LT or something and you color matched I'm sure nobody would notice because it's a factory option anyway for that trim plus most people like the color match bumpers as had already been said above. I'd say your clear as long as there's no significant body damage Sent from my SM-G986U1 using Tapatalk

Might find this interesting. https://www.bgprod.com/blog/under-pressure-low-tension-piston-rings/

Following this for sure. It’s -5 degrees out so I won’t be doing this until spring or whenever the hell we get some kind of winter thaw but I will also be doing this

A much more accurate way to check how much oil you used would be to check the dipstick with cold engine on level ground before you drained it.

Oh Geez.... The world is so full conspiracy theorists, sell the damn truck and take away all the pain will ya? It’s on the internet so it must be true.......Covid needs to get over with so people can get outside and stop being keyboard warriors. Did ya hear the tires on the Silverado are square and not round? You heard it here.....

What we always recommend our customers is to run ET lug nuts. ET "Extended Thread" lug nuts will offer just that, more threads. With ET lugs you can run up to 10mm spacers in most cases without an issue. Let me know if we can be of any assistance.

Few Projects completed this weekend. #3 on the list was that i finally got around to putting in the external lighted bed light switch and an additional set of GM bed lights. This is a must have,.. No more going in to the truck to turn bed lighting on..

So I got this garmin dash cam “46” got it off OfferUp for 80$ still brand new in box (took everything out to take pictures) small af next to my AirPods

https://www.autostopeliminator.com/collections/gm/products/2019-silverado-sierra-autostop-eliminator Auto Stop Eliminator, and I also agree with tinted windows... or tint front windows to match the rear. I also always get rear wheelhouse liners. I can't stand the unfinished look of the rear wheel houses on trucks. Spray in bedliner a classic but that's getting a little more expensive. All 4 of these together should still be <$1k which is nice

Do you have a link, or a part number for this kit?

Ever since having my girl lowered the front wheels shifted back in the wheel well and I have had rubbing on anything more than moderate turns. Since I enjoy the drive-thru lifestyle the rubbing has been annoying. My mechanic that aligns the truck said I would need new non-stock upper control arms to move the wheels forward any further. Based on Nasty's recommendation I bought a pair of Twisted Metal Workz Camber Correction Control Arms. Got them installed today and the rubbing is almost gone. Only have an issue just before full lock. It was too dark when I picked her up to get any pictures of the truck or the wheels tonight but I will take some in the next couple of days and post them. Drive-thrus beware! Twisted Metal Workz Camber Correction Control Arms: https://www.twistedmetalworkz.com/collections/control-arms/products/2008-2018-silverado-sierra-camber-correction-control-arms?variant=11703967285295

Can't tell if your trying to be a comedian here or if your serious? It wasn't really very funny and it didn't really make any sense! If you don't care about this topic, don't follow along. It's pretty simple!

Yes they are. However I use Android Auto almost 100% of the time. Which does not show temperature. If they had the temp in the DIC that woul dbe better but sadly it's not there either.

What does it cost? If it was more than $50, I would just get used to pushing the auto stop disable button. It takes like two seconds. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Hello all, For anyone reading this old post regarding the numerous years of Silverado's going into "reduced power mode" I will share my findings, hope this helps someone with this very frustrating problem which I also have dealt with on and off for the past few years and FINALLY fixed. Just for reference, my truck is a 2003 HD1500 crew cab with the 6.0 Vortec that has just over 200,000 miles on the clock. The last few winters when it would get at or below about 10 F I would get the REP message and check engine light on the dash, could only go about 15 MPH tops when it happens, very inconvenient and dangerous to say the least. You have to stop, shut the engine off, wait a few seconds then restart and it will run fine until it does it again. At first just seemed it was temperature related but as time went on it seemed to do it whenever, @ 30 MPH, @ 60 MPH, in the middle of rush hour traffic (not fun), after it rained, when it was 90 F outside and the A/C was on, just never seemed to make any rhyme or reason and did it when it felt like it. I was also experiencing an off and on "surge" both at slower in town speeds and on the highway when holding the pedal steady @ 65MPH, when it started doing this I new the REP message on the dash was just a minute or so away and sure enough it would happen. The code I got was always the same, P1516 which is the TAC (throttle actuator control module), but if you try look for a new TAC you will find out they are not only difficult to find new, they are very spendy as well. For those that have wasted money replacing the TAC have found in 99% of the cases it has not fixed the problem, so I decided I wasn't going to replace the TAC just yet as my thinking is they either work or they don't and I find it hard to believe it would just work fine one minute and not the next. I checked all the usual suspects and bulletins including the plug and wires going to the throttle body, cleaned the MAF sensor, cleaned the throttle body, checked the connections to the TAC and on and on to no avail. First off, DON'T start throwing parts at it, you are wasting your time and money! I put three (yes 3) throttle bodies on my truck since this past February, one after-market unit and 2- AC Delco re-man units, it would run fine anywhere from a couple months to a couple of days and the problem was back again with the same P1516 code as I've read here about a zillion times now with others experiencing the exact same problem. This is a GROUNDING ISSUE plain and simple and there are a few other things to check along the way I will cover, but I'll start with the grounding problems first. Start out by disconnecting the battery, both sides, while you work on it this will also allow the code(s) to clear. There are 3 ground connections of concern, the one at the back of the engine (near the firewall) connected to the block on the passenger side just below the cylinder head, the one on the back of the engine connected to the back side of cylinder head on the driver's side of the engine, and the grounds on the frame under the drivers side door which is easy to get at but the others are NOT. Start out by removing and cleaning the ground connection on the frame under the drivers door, if you have to use a grinder or equivalent to get good clean metal on the frame then do so. Pick up a tube of dialectic grease, it will be your new friend, apply it to the grounds and re-connect them. This MIGHT solve the problem but I doubt it will alone but good to do anyways. Next comes the fun part. The two grounds on the back of the engine are IMPOSSIBLE to get at without removing the intake manifold unless you are some sort of contortionist with very small hands and have x-ray vision and can see through metal. You want to remove the intake to get at them and you want to do this anyways as there is more to this story. The intake gaskets are known to fail causing an intake leak and excessive pinging under acceleration, so while you in the process of getting at the 2 grounds, replace the intake gaskets and you might as well replace the knock sensors (as they may be corroded) and the knock sensor wire harness for good measure while you are in there. After the intake ducting is removed, the intake is off, etc., etc. The ground on the passenger side of the block is held on by a 13mm bolt, the one on the drivers side is a 15mm (at least it was in my case). This requires you kneel on the upper portion of the radiator support to reach them and is still somewhat of a trick, use some padding to protect your knees. DON'T just assume by grabbing on to these grounds and finding they are tight that they are good! Trust me they are NOT! Take your time, get both out in the open because you are going to want to fix both. Once you have these grounds out in the open you will notice the original metal ring terminals seem tight and well connected, but upon closer inspection you will see they are crimped over the plastic of the wire but very little if any inside wire strand is actually touching the metal ring, THIS IS A CRAP CONNECTION! Proceed to clip the rings off, strip the wire back and put on a new ring terminal, use some dielectric grease on the terminal where you insert the wire, crimp it tightly and I would also recommend using some heat shrink tube slipped on the wire first before you crimp on the new ring, then slide the shrink tube over the connection and warm it up with a hair dryer or equivalent, you can also solder this connection for good measure if you feel like it, but a good crimp with the dielectric grease all covered with shrink tube should do the job, in any case it will be way better than what you had in the first place. After you have replaced both ground rings it's time for reassembly. Using a piece of sandpaper, first clean the contact area where the grounds connect, wipe them clean and apply more dielectric grease, use it liberally, re-connect the grounds, tighten the bolts and insure they are tight. Now on to the intake, install your new gaskets which clip on to the intake, install your new knock sensors and tighten them to 15 lb. ft. DO NOT over tighten the knock sensors, they are VERY sensitive! To give you an idea of how tight, they are basically hand tight and then just a hair more, if you have a torque wrench, use it. Plug in your new knock sensor wires, re-install the intake with the new gaskets, plug in all the connectors, re-attach the fuel line to the injector rail on the passenger side, reconnect the air ducting and so on, reconnect the battery, you are now ready for your first start up. Per what I've read, you should perform a throttle body "relearn" after the battery has been disconnected for a length of time. If you look up "throttle body relearn" for your make and model you should find the process for your vehicle. Mine was basically turn the key on, turn the key off 5 seconds, turn the key on for 5 seconds, turn the key off for 15 seconds, turn it on for 15 seconds, turn it off and start the truck. Let it warm up to full operating temperature (185 F+), do not touch the throttle while it is warming up, just let it idle. After it has warmed up, turn on the A/C (if so equipped) in park for 10 seconds, leave the A/C on and put it in drive for 10 seconds, leave it in drive and turn the A/C off for 10 seconds, then put it in park and turn the vehicle off and you're done! Restart and take it out for a drive to see how it runs. A few things to check if the problem persists and you've done all of the above: Again all this is done with the battery DISCONNECTED. Open up the power box under the hood on the drivers side inner fender, the top that holds all the relays and fuses flips open so you can look underneath it. Check for a mouse nest or debris (quite common) underneath, also check for any wires that may have been chewed on by mice, look carefully moving the plugs and wires around, you may find bare areas on the wires (also a very common problem), clean out the box and repair any wires that are damaged as this could have also been your problem. While you are in there, disconnect and clean all the positive main terminals, relays and so on and apply dielectric grease to their sockets, re-tighten terminals, for good measure unplug the plugs, apply dielectric grease to them as well and re-connect. Your PCM may have grounding issues: The PCM is located at the front of the drivers side inner fender. Get it out in the open and removed the blue plug, look for the black / white wire in the #1 pin position which is the ground. A few inches from the plug, carefully strip back some of the plastic covering the wire, do not cut the wire! Solder on another wire to this ground, re-cover it well after you have made this connection and run this lead as an additional ground up to the lug on the firewall where the main ground strap from the engine is connected, again clean everything, use dielectric grease and be sure the nut is tight. A few other possibilities. With both of the large plugs (blue and red) disconnected from the PCM inspect the pins on the PCM itself, if any are burned, corroded or otherwise it may be time for a new PCM. If you replaced the sensor on the gas pedal (the one inside the vehicle on the gas pedal assembly) it may be out of sync with the TAC module which is on the drivers side firewall under the hood and the pedal assembly is plugged into it. I have read that the original gas pedal sensor is calibrated to work with the original TAC and if you replace either, things will not work or will result in the "reduced power message" and I tend to agree with this. If none of the above has helped and you decide to attempt replacing either it's best off to buy a TAC and a pedal assembly complete together from the same truck at a junk yard. If you have replaced any of these parts, do not throw them away as you may now need them! I actually just performed all this recently and my truck runs so smooth now in comparison to how it did when I was having the problems it's like night and day, so far no trouble codes and it continues to run perfectly. I hope all this can help some of you experiencing this very irritating problem. Good luck! Marc