Leaderboard

It's no longer supported under the TSB. My friend had to pay about $180 (if I recall correctly) to have it done at his GMC dealer. Included transmission fluid change, as well. So, unfortunately, no refund, but, as I mentioned, it fixed his issues and I had it done as a preemptive measure at my Chevrolet dealer. Pretty sure I paid, as well ... I'd have to go through my receipts.

10-4, I built one online to my preferred specs and submitted it to several other dealers , i hope they contact me.

The be-all-end-all would be to just have them wire the money while you're at your bank. Theres really no doubt at that point. But, a counterfeit marker checker would verify cash of course. Sometimes, there are honest people in the world. Case in point: I put my '12 up for sale recently and priced it for a few hundred under top dollar; excellent condition KBB selling price. Someone messaged me later that evening asking if they could come see it the following day (Saturday). They showed up and expressed satisfaction of the condition (I babied it and it was rust-free despite being in Minnesota). Went for a test drive and they said they'd take it for my asking price. They came later in the week with a bank check (local-ish, as they were only about an hour drive from me). It was the easiest, best car-sales transaction I think I've ever had.

Got the tires mounted and the real test fit. The wheels were supposed to get custom beadlocks added on but they never got back to me and I totally forgot about it. Hoping to hit the track within a month or so while the air is still nice.

2023 Sierra Elevation, Dynamic Blue. Not the best pic, but the only one I have currently. Had to order running boards off ebay, most all OEM are on national backorder. Looking for mods to do, mostly once the new trucks get figured out soon. I'd like to add tow mirrors, and the rear view mirror camera.

Not sure if it's bragging or too poor to afford a new one. Just hit 300K on 2014 GMC All Terrain CC 4WD 5.3v8. Truck is basically stock. I purchased it in 2016 with 51K on it. I immediately did oil change with Edge motor oil. Have used Edge the entire time changing at DIC stated intervals. A time or two I have had low oil message on DIC. Either went in for top off or just got oil changed. Wix filters were used up until 3 oil changes ago and my local oil shop was bought out by "Take 5" Now I have no clue what filter or oil they use. They stated it was equivelent to edge...I'm sure it's probably junk and I'm looking for a new oil shop. Part failures that I can remember: Air condenser cooler went out at 115k. I replaced it myself and I guess I broke a clip at the trans coolant line. That clip let go about 15k later and dumped tranny fluid all over I75. I buttoned it all up and then at 140k Tranny went out (was probably my fault) A/C delco tranny in at 140k. Brake pads at around 180k, Starter around 200k, Another transmission at 236k that was covered by A/C delco as the replacement had 100k warranty and didn't make it. Second Air condenser at 245k. Front pads and rotors around 250k. about 4 sets of wiper blades, 2 batteries. I have a grounding issue that I think is in the negative battery cable. Starting to get intermittent no start/dead battery issues from time to time....re-adjust negative battery cable and it starts right up. With all that said. it's been a great truck. I've been from Mid GA to Colorado and South Florida to DC is this damn thing. Also, during 2021 it basically sat for a year except for vacation trips (so maybe 7000 put on truck in 2021) I had a company vehicle. So, I'd like to sell it for 37k that I paid for it in 2016. It's definitely reliable. I'm wanting a 24 2500 so bad...but dang they are spendy.

Hey all! I've honestly been happy with my elevation, but found myself always wanting a Tundra. They seem currently even more overpriced than normal in the current environment but I found a good deal on an SR. They have SO many trim levels, but it sure seems like an SR would be a big step down (despite what my buddy says, who's a Tundra 4 lifer, and drives a 19 TRD PRO). Anyone contemplated a trade when they finally got refreshed?

The WCFab intake tube showed up yesterday and I had the opportunity to install it this morning. No complaints with the design or workmanship. If'n they would've left the advertisement off, it looks factory to the untrained eye.

Thanks for the info, makes me feel better about the 6l90 if i go gas again. I might try out a dmax this go around for my next Hd. I haven't made my mind up yet.

Had the 2 degree shim installed today and it is back to factory smooth, if you want to call it that

It definitely fixed mine, I was hoping maybe I could get them to flush and change the fluid. Either way, thanks for the info.

I just paid a local shop to do this, what are the odds I can get a refund from GM?

Mine was finally delivered. Got it installed this evening. I also installed a cargo light switch while back there. Also installed a set of oem led tail lights that I picked up super cheap from a customer at work that removed his bed to install a flatbed (no pics of them installed).

I totally agree. The technology is there, why aren't they using it? Perhaps there's not enough people who would buy what you are talking about. I would for sure. I believe these hp and tq wars are insane. It's alway great to have plenty of each to do the job, but is it really necessary to have close to or over 1000 lb ft of torque? When is that much torque necessary? I pull our 8k lb camper with ease with just 464 lb ft of tq. Sure it would be nice to have more but isn't it always. I love your numbers for a diesel engine. If they produced one, I'm in for sure!!

Back in the old days a GMS (stock) was 15% off and GMO (order) was 18% off so I ordered almost all of my trucks.

that's a good question, i'm under the assumption that you pay MSRP , there should be no dealer fees because you're basically ordering it direct from Chevrolet or GM. i may be wrong though, i'm also in the same boat, this will be my first ever custom built order. I don't mind doing it this way as i'm in no rush to get the truck, but my finances are ready to roll whenever need be.

Oh, by and large it's tire kicking and BS about 80% of the time. It's just whether buying or selling, the screaming deals that can be had once in awhile is worth putting up with the shenanigans. At least for now.

Hard to find a narrow 35 that I'd want to drive on the highway, but 35x12.5 ridge grapplers. (4.10s would be a better match if I wasn't building a dumb thing) Also carry around an extra probably 800 pounds between a decked, camper shell, and stuff that lives in it, just 4 inch bds on the lift and aftermarket bumper/ some fender trimming to fit the tires, but enough that it's worse than the usual brick going down the road. Obnoxious tow mirrors going on for boat/ trailer reasons. (Don't think I towed anything in that 13 average over the last 50, but maybe had a kayak on top of it Monday and lifetime since the lift/other dumb stuff via trip odometer is 13.9 last I looked (to be fair, more towing, off-road, and general not highway than most over those 10kish miles). If I have to start going to an office again, will buy a beater civic or something, but mileage was not a design concern. Beater civic would also give me an excuse to start with the engine work, so I expect mileage gets worse after that.

35s w/ 4.56 and a bunch of other dumb stuff going on (nothing besides gears mechanically yet, but extra weight and drag). Average is I think 13 if computer can be trusted/ was corrected right, can do 18 or so on the highway if I keep it under 70, but aero becomes a problem. Never really cared about mileage with this thing tbh.

Thanks men. Very appreciated.

Not needed. Get it up to temp and check the fluid level.

Lazy dealer or staff. Another dealer would be glad to earn your business.

Like Grumpy Bear said, it'll be fine. The transmission adaptive shift learning is only really needed during the course of an overhaul, or TCM replacement. That said, there is a transmission fluid life monitor just like the engine oil monitor that can be reset through GDS2 or a higher-end scan tool.

That's probably one of the better deals i have seen on here in some time, and that is not a top end model either, so good find.

I have been looking at this kit for awhile. Last week when I was under the truck measuring the muffler. I saw the seam where the tailpipe end and the main body was leaking. Holes were along the seam on the main body. So I really started looking at mufflers. After figuring muffler, clamps, and pipe. I was almost half way to the price of this kit. Then seen it was on sale for around a $100 less with free shipping. I thought screw it! May as well start with new. It's stainless steel and the muffler is the style that I was favoring. With going with this, bigger pipes and straight flow muffler, have a better chance of not having manifold problems. Watched a video of one of the exhaust guys, one of the best things you can do is trade out the OEM muffler, which will reduce heat and back pressure. And help stop manifold warpage. I think it was Mike from MPI company. Talking with my Brother-in-law, and he decided to do the same to their 2021 Silverado 2500hd. They said shipping wouldn't be until April 15th, directly from provider. Thinking of upgrading the clamps to the wider 2 bolt clamps. Better seal at the joints. Yeah, and my truck only has 17500 miles on the odometer.

True. But if someone really wants your gas they'll just pop a hole in the gas tank with a screwdriver and put a gas can under the hole. Personally, I'd rather they siphoned it out.

I can't really say about Magnaride setup but on the regular setup, the Rough Country 2" level spacers did what they were supposed to. Had a front end alignment done and it ended up not being too far off. When trying to tow my toy hauler, it was a bit of an issue. The rake is there to compensate for the sag that happens when weight is added to back and usually will end up with back end level with front on stock setup. However, when that sag happens with a leveled front end, the front end will be pointed slightly at the sky. During daytime, it just looks a little funny. At night though, headlights will be blinding incoming traffic. I solved this with Airlift bags and their compressor setup. But... When it comes time to change out the strut and the RC level spacers have been there for a length of time, you're in for a surprise. Took me almost a good 2 days cutting with sawzall, pounding with a BFH and drilling out what still remained. Along with curling my tongue the right way and trying to watch the colorful language as my young son was nearby through a lot of it to get them completely removed.

MotoFablifts.com has the sensor bracket extensions $20. I have a 2in level kit on my 18 Denali. Other mods to as well and doing a complete magnaride delete soon and keeping it at 2in level with control arms and bilsteins.

just picked up a 2023 1500 rst 5.3 2wd a few weeks ago already done some small stuff to it tint short antenna diode dynamics led backup bulbs and led license plate bulbs gm bed mat and will be doing a eibach stage 1 level kit next week after that will be wheels and tires to get rid of the 20s and afe power intake and exhaust

2023 Elevation with RC 3.5 inch lift and 285/65r20 recon grapplers

Something a little different until summer wheels go on!

Anyone else level there 19/23 on 35’s if need any help feel free to message me

Only used Castrol Edge and not Amsoil? IMPOSSIBLE!

Sterling gray metallic

Just bought it yesterday,2020 Chevrolet Silverado RST Z71 and All-star, Cajun red. Still have my 08 GMC Sierra. But will be up for sale soon.

I would suggest getting a pressure bleeder, like the one from Motive, works well and it take no time to flush the brake system. Just if you get the system with the cheaper plastic cap, keep the pressure lower, like below 15 psi...

Should be an AAM 11.5.

For brake fluid, you need to watch mixing and matching types. There are 4 (DOT 3, 4, 5, 5.1), some of which can be mixed, some which will wreck your seals, and some, if mixed will turn to sludge and be an expensive job getting it cleaned out. I highly recommend sticking with DOT 3.

...the o.p. specifically needs the NP261HD for his 2500hd (and not the NP261 or the NP261XHD versions).

when you put all that hp and torque load across 4 cylinders, vs 8 cylinder. you will be increasing the wear by increasing the heat to thos smaller components. you will loose out in the long run. i suggest leasing it and trashing it in 6 years

I found and attached the tsb from when I had my 2015 truck. It has a chart showing approx crank times associated with different temps.

Gas cap won't help. P0446 is for a partially or fully plugged evap system. Stuck closed vent valve, pinched line, plugged vent valve, etc.

Rained here yesterday, then freezing rain, then snow, then stupid windy all night and all day here. County roads are just ice sheets in many spots as the temps went from 44 degrees down to 8 degrees with a windchill of 10-15 below zero. It was sunny all day though......

i emailed them and they said nothing at this time for 23 5.3 or 6.2