Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone put a K&N Cold Air Induction on the 6.2 and if so whats the results?

 

 

around 10hp or so from airaid jr. on mine.

Posted

How is the 6 speed mated to the 6.2L? My brother in law has a '12 5.3 w/6speed and hates the tranny, claims it hunts alot and not smooth, I've never driven it. I like my '08 5.3 4 speed, but am seriously considering ordering a 6.2L next year. Likes/dislikes? Thanks.

 

 

I've had two Silverados with the 4 speed and my current truck with the 6 speed. I could deal with either but I prefer the 6 speed.

Posted
The GM programming for the 6-speed can be pretty lame as the emphasis from the factory is maximum mileage (CAFE numbers). Back in 2008, the two biggest complaints were the truck not down-shifting quick enough up slight hills and a long delay downshifting when you punched it above 30mph (think on-ramp). GM came out with a transmission program (a TSB) that helped somewhat but it didn't cure all.

 

Getting an engine tune helps smarten up the shifting quite a bit. Getting an engine/tranmission tune via the AutoCal is the ultimate answer. You actually download a separate transmission tune file that smarten's it right up. If I'm climbing a hill and depress the pedal even a smidgen, it drops a gear instantly. Seamless!

 

I don't know why GM doesn't have this solved yet. You would think they could add a switch similiar to the "Tow/Haul" button for performance or "Sport" mode like Toyota used to offer years ago, and maybe keep their CAFE averages.

 

Its called torque management. Almost every GM vehicle has had some form of it for years now.

 

Try rolling on the throttle instead of stomping it to the floor. Big difference. Again, torque management.

 

Torque management was put in place for a lot of reasons but mainly to help the powertrains easily live past their 5 year/100,000 mile warranty.

 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Going to take mine for a little drive. Going to Missouri next week (flyng) to a conference and when I get home the wife and I are driving to Mesa AZ. pulling my Haulmark low hauler with my HD. I have done this trip a number of times but not with my 6.2. Usually can do it in two full days.........So what kind of milage will I get? With the 5.3 I got around 15mpg.

Edited by Likarok
Posted

My boat weighed around 6000lbs. I could get around 12 with the 6.2. My previous 5.3 would only get about 9 with the same boat.

Posted (edited)

So I made it down to Mesa in one 13 hr day and one 12 hr day. The DIC says I got 14 mpg. Actually though I think my shortbox with a 5.3 handled the trailer just as good and I got 15 mpg with it.

 

Anyways when I was just about to Mesa the DIC told me to "Service the 4 wheel drive system". I looked at the 4x4 dial and while the dial was in 2high the light says the truck is in Auto. Bizarre!

 

So I will get it into Power Chevrolet here in Mesa and see what is up with that.

Edited by Likarok
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Question: A 2008 6.2L Sierra Denali, would they have basically the same parts as the 5.3l V8? Ie. wheels bearings, tie rods, pwr window motors, ball joints, windsheild, etc, like your everyday parts that might need replacing after such a time?

 

I know the suspension,awd system, brakes i think (and maybe more) are different..

 

My dad has a CTS, and since its a cadi, all the parts are jacked up... wondering if its the same as the denali, or its just a fancy version of the sierra?

 

thx!

Posted (edited)

Does anyone else with the 6.2 get piston slap. Mine has 28k on it now and its below 30 here and even if I let it warm up for a minute or two it sounds terrible. It remimds me of my old mans 2000 5.3 wirh 315k. I've noticed this summer it sounds like its developed lifter noise on the left side. I really don't even wanna take it in because I know the response.

Edited by Raced Guy
Posted

Nope knock on wood, my 2000 was pretty noticable but never had issues with it.

 

 

Ryan

 

Do you garage it?

 

 

Ryan

Posted (edited)

I do but i car pool so i will start it and let it run for about 2 minutes and then go. If its colder than about 15 i give it 5 minutes atleast usually. My free onstar is expired so i cant use the app on my phone anymore to start it. Today it was only 25 which isnt to cold at all, it just seems a ton more noticeable than last year when it was basically new. My 06 vortec max didnt make a peep, my moms 03 denali is quiet with alot of miles on it, old mans 00 has piston slap his 07 5.3 doesnt. We have gmt800/900s at work and they are all quiet except our 01 6.0. Just bugs me my 6.2 does i guess.

Edited by Raced Guy
Posted

Does anyone else with the 6.2 get piston slap. Mine has 28k on it now and its below 30 here and even if I let it warm up for a minute or two it sounds terrible. It remimds me of my old mans 2000 5.3 wirh 315k. I've noticed this summer it sounds like its developed lifter noise on the left side. I really don't even wanna take it in because I know the response.

 

 

Have you had a chance to bring this to the attention of your local dealer? I can look into this for you as well with the last eight of your VIN. Contact me privately for more assistance. Thank you.

 

Tricia, GM Customer Service.

Posted

Anyone here have a 07-08 6.2l v8 and have a issue with a seal going? Apparently there was a recal.. I spoke to a person that told me this who owns a 08 Denali. I called GM and they didn't know what I was talking about, only recall they knew of was a tps. Thx

Posted

I do but i car pool so i will start it and let it run for about 2 minutes and then go. If its colder than about 15 i give it 5 minutes atleast usually. My free onstar is expired so i cant use the app on my phone anymore to start it. Today it was only 25 which isnt to cold at all, it just seems a ton more noticeable than last year when it was basically new. My 06 vortec max didnt make a peep, my moms 03 denali is quiet with alot of miles on it, old mans 00 has piston slap his 07 5.3 doesnt. We have gmt800/900s at work and they are all quiet except our 01 6.0. Just bugs me my 6.2 does i guess.

 

 

I'd make a service call to your dealer. This isn't normal. I have a 2011 6.2 as well. I live in Texas and it never gets below 30 lol here in Htown, but I ran synthetic after 1000 miles just to be safe.

Posted

I changed the oil at 500 miles, 1200 miles and then switched to full syn. I'm super anal about the maintenace on my truck service. I just hate going to a dealer for service. I was an ase certified tech for years so I'm not clueless by any means and some of the stuff they have said and done just scares me. I'm sure there are many excellent service departments, I just need to find one.

Posted

I changed the oil at 500 miles, 1200 miles and then switched to full syn. I'm super anal about the maintenace on my truck service. I was an ase certified tech for years so I'm not clueless by any means...

 

Perhaps with all those early oil changes, the motor/rings never fully seated or wore in?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 87 down as low as $5.14 here... winning!
    • Progress... sort of.   Intake is disassembled, spider is out, fuel lines removed. Used a torch on the stripped screw with the lower intake off, much easier when I've got the intake sitting on my workbench, I made it talk. Walked right out with a pair of vice grips once it was nice and toasty hot.   New parts are piling up on my service cart waiting to be installed. Distributor, temperature sensor, new gaskets, fuel line kit, themostat, water neck.   My new pickle is I don't want to spend $600 on a replacement spider. I'm not sure IT is bad. I'm probably splitting hairs. Or it's $300 to send mine away and another 3 weeks of the truck just sitting. I have half a mind to assemble everything with the old spider to see if I can get away with just replacing the fuel pressure regulator to be safe. The obvious issue was the gushing high pressure fuel line which will be replaced. Getting to the spider really isn't that hard, and now I know what I'm doing , swapping it would be a breeze should it absolutely need one. Stupid, or smart?   The part that gives me pause is replacing the distributor. Well, it's already out. And I didn't mark it, whoopsie! Engine was at TDC when I removed it, I know that, so upon correct reinstall the metal tip on the rotor should point to the TDC mark on the distributor because that's where it was pointing on the old distributor. Worst case I'm a tooth off and have to re-stab it.   But then, what? I assume the truck will start. It doesn't appear the timing can be set. Here's the problem: These distributors can't be rotated but a degree or two, by design. What I read is Cam ****** needs to be -2 to +2 degrees, ideally at 0 (and checked/set above 1000 rpm). There should be enough wiggle to get that properly set, but checking the reported value is another potential issue. My Actron 9185 scanner says it supports enhanced GM PIDs and Cam ****** is one of them but it's unclear that I'll be able to correctly see it over OBD 1.5. I can see why people end up junking these things with life left in them. They're an absolute nightmare with tweener-year diagnostics/electronics and unobtanium parts.   Fingers crossed it starts and idles nicely. There can be hope, right? I'ma buy a lottery ticket the same day just in case.   Next steps..DO IT. I have not installed an intake before so I've been reading and watching a lot. Some say NO RTV except on china walls, some say DO RTV on water ports but not fuel/air intake. 1/4 or 3/8 bead on China walls? I think my strategy will be, obviously, RTV china walls with overlap on the gasket corners. Chapstick-style RTV the water ports. Leave intake ports dry. The only set of intake gaskets I could find locally are Edelbrock performance gaskets (uh...for an asthmatic 190hp V6? LOL) so we'll see how they do.   #NoToolLeftBehind. It took an hour, but my recovery mission for my deep 10mm socket was successful. It had rolled down the bellhousing and wedged itself between what I think are the fuel lines? I couldn't see it at all, but with a junk antenna I had laying around, I blindly went poking/sweeping for it, heard it clink, raised the truck, and caught a sliver glimpse of chrome with a flashlight way up there in Narnia. I had pushed it farther along the lines holding it captive, but within access of severely improvised tools, poking and cursing at it to finally knock it free to where I could get a fingertip on it to bring it home.    Not much to see.      
    • Thats crazy considering im right next door (Indiana)
    • For a limited time, retail and commercial accounts receive an AMSOIL Vinyl Tool Tray with their order of $500 or more when they use code TRAY726 at checkout. The promotion runs through July 21, 2026.   Order at https://syntheticadvantage.com   Want to use AMSOIL in your business or sell at your store, apply here.  https://www.amsoil.com/business-opportunities/?zo=521390  
    • It wouldn’t have happened if the government hadn’t mandated outrageous fuel mileage standards. It does very little for the consumer. It adds cost. Back during Covid there was a chip shortage. They gave a rebate for your truck if it didn’t have the chip to turn on cylinder deactivation. It was 50$ because at best you may see 1/2 a mile increase per gallon. Splitting hairs each fuel mileage trick wasn’t mandated. The government doesn’t do the engineering work and say use this until it’s already in use and they like it. The fuel mileage was mandated. And those add ons the results. There’s a mandate and they are the results.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...