Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I am just surprised NOT one person from GM can tell me which lifters are typically the problem, or if its any lifter at any given time. I need to decide on replacing all of the ones that aren't bad while the engine is apart. If the new ones go bad; then screw it; what's the point? They said the part numbers are different but WHAT CAUSED THIS ISSUE IN THE FIRST PLACE???!!! Replacing broken parts doesn't fix the issue if the lifter the victim of something else being wrong. Should they check the oil pump too? Or are the new lifters improved???! I can't get an fricking answer from anyone. Its like a conspiracy

Posted

Totally hear ya. What a friggin joke. Hope you get the answers someplace ...

Posted

Got the call today after the 6.2 in my 2010 Yukon Denali was completely torn down. Collapsed lifter which ruined the rocker and the push rod. Unreal! Luckily I am not flipping the bill since I just bought it. I am paying $300 parts only to replace the remaining lifters with new ones so avoid this disaster in the future. Everything else checks out fine and pressure was checked. Oil pump is fine too. This could have been a major disaster down the road. GM so far has done nothing to fix this. $65,000 SUV...how do they expect me to buy a brand new one after this! The Ford dealer I bought it from is paying for GMs mistake just to make things right with me. Maybe I need to switch?!

Posted (edited)

Got the call today after the 6.2 in my 2010 Yukon Denali was completely torn down. Collapsed lifter which ruined the rocker and the push rod. Unreal! Luckily I am not flipping the bill since I just bought it. I am paying $300 parts only to replace the remaining lifters with new ones so avoid this disaster in the future. Everything else checks out fine and pressure was checked. Oil pump is fine too. This could have been a major disaster down the road. GM so far has done nothing to fix this. $65,000 SUV...how do they expect me to buy a brand new one after this! The Ford dealer I bought it from is paying for GMs mistake just to make things right with me. Maybe I need to switch?!

I am here after owning 2 F150's, both having transmission issues. The tranny in the 05 failed at 66K miles. It also had a couple injectors fail at two different times. The second time it took out one converter. At 5K miles the complete sunroof assembly and headliner had to be replaced after 2 previous repair attempts. The dealer finally replaced everything when it got stuck opened.

 

Pick your poison :thumbs:

Edited by EX-F150 owner
Posted (edited)

Everything is junk today. You can't win!

 

Best course of action is to buy something built 40 years ago, and install modern components on it yourself. Wish I had taken my own advice. I was an idiot, and bought an '07 Silverado back in '07. I've done just as much repair work to this thing as I have to cars 4 decades older!

Edited by Jsdirt
Posted

Got the call today after the 6.2 in my 2010 Yukon Denali was completely torn down. Collapsed lifter which ruined the rocker and the push rod. Unreal! Luckily I am not flipping the bill since I just bought it. I am paying $300 parts only to replace the remaining lifters with new ones so avoid this disaster in the future. Everything else checks out fine and pressure was checked. Oil pump is fine too. This could have been a major disaster down the road. GM so far has done nothing to fix this. $65,000 SUV...how do they expect me to buy a brand new one after this! The Ford dealer I bought it from is paying for GMs mistake just to make things right with me. Maybe I need to switch?!

 

How many miles were on it when you bought it?

Were you able to obtain service records for it?

Anything show up when running the VIN at a GM dealership?

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

So I have a weird one for you guys. Only when the truck is cold when I start it there is a very loud thunk noise, but only 1. It doesn't need to 'warm' up to go away. It literally goes away after 1 revolution (or close to). I've listened to probably 20 youtube videos of cold piston slap and it definitely doesn't sound like that. It almost sounds like a metal on metal thwack. Hard to explain. I'll have to get a video of it later today after the vehicle cools down.

Doesn't do it in +5 degree temp and doesn't do it once the block is warmed. Like I said there is only 1 quick noise and that is it. Not sure what it is.

Edited by Cosworth
Posted

So I have a weird one for you guys. Only when the truck is cold when I start it there is a very loud thunk noise, but only 1. It doesn't need to 'warm' up to go away. It literally goes away after 1 revolution (or close to). I've listened to probably 20 youtube videos of cold piston slap and it definitely doesn't sound like that. It almost sounds like a metal on metal thwack. Hard to explain. I'll have to get a video of it later today after the vehicle cools down.

Doesn't do it in +5 degree temp and doesn't do it once the block is warmed. Like I said there is only 1 quick noise and that is it. Not sure what it is.

 

Well gauge was showing below the lowest line and it didn't do it. But it was parked on the street and I manually started it. I always remote start the truck when I am on my way out in the morning. So I'll try and manually start it tomorrow after sitting. I wonder if it is a lifter noise because the oil bleeds out of it?

Posted

So had a chance to start it this morning. Luckily it doesnt sound like a metallic noise like I thought, it more sounds like a snuff noise. Almost like a valve cover breather. Kind of strange. Thoughts?

 

 

Posted

Tough over the net ... but it sounds like it may have an exhaust manifold leak where it meets the pipe. I think it might be after the cat on these new ones - can't remember. I think that's how mine is. Might just get away with tightening the bolts if that's indeed where the sound is coming from ...

 

It would go away when warm, I would think, if it was an exhaust leak that small.

Posted

So had a chance to start it this morning. Luckily it doesnt sound like a metallic noise like I thought, it more sounds like a snuff noise. Almost like a valve cover breather. Kind of strange. Thoughts?

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qz5eLBfJTwQ

Mine has had that noise (only when below freezing) since new so 6 yrs now. It has not concerned me as I remember my old 2000 having a similar sound

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted

Tough over the net ... but it sounds like it may have an exhaust manifold leak where it meets the pipe. I think it might be after the cat on these new ones - can't remember. I think that's how mine is. Might just get away with tightening the bolts if that's indeed where the sound is coming from ...

 

It would go away when warm, I would think, if it was an exhaust leak that small.

 

Awesome, so not going to throw a pushrod through the intake, that is all I care at this point. haha

 

Mine has had that noise (only when below freezing) since new so 6 yrs now. It has not concerned me as I remember my old 2000 having a similar sound

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Good to know, yeah the first couple times it sounded violent but now it sounds like just a crap load of air being sucked in. Glad to know it isn't me and/or a sign of impending failure.

Posted

Sounds like the starter bendix is sticking. And probably doesn't do it when warm because the grease is warmer.

 

 

Sent from the future via a wifi time portal.

Posted

Sounds like the starter bendix is sticking. And probably doesn't do it when warm because the grease is warmer.

 

 

Sent from the future via a wifi time portal.

 

That could very well be it as well. If that happens to be it, what would be worst case that one day it wouldn't disengage? Shouldn't cause much more than starter failure I would imagine (which really isn't a huge deal in the scheme of things).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...