Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Since it stormed yesterday it needed a bath

 

Also can't wait for next month to pull the trigger on some BFG KO2s. My BFG ATs are toast. Rear traction sucks. Fun to drive but would rather have better control

 

 

c477d59493c2f695c5dff14b45d2b562.jpg

 

 

Ryan

Posted

I have to look but 35Kish

 

 

Ryan

The 6.2 is definitely hard on them

 

 

Ryan

Posted

Last set of tires I bought was through Tire rack. Saved quite a bit picking them up. Warehouse in South Bend.

Posted

Where'd you buy them? I know DCT guaranteed my tires for 50k.

The BFG ATs do not have a mileage rating

 

The KO2s are pretty much priced the same anywhere you go. I am going through discount tire

 

 

Ryan

Posted

Last set I bought payed under $800 for four Bridgestone Duravis R500 235/80/17 and they'll last over 130,000 miles.

Posted

I stand corrected. The ATP's are guaranteed for 55,000. It will be interesting to see if they make it. Other than mud tires, I don't think I could touch a tire that wasn't rated for at least 45,000.

Posted

I have gotten 50k out of the BFG ATs on my old truck. I was much harder on my current set. Like I said with the 6.2 it's hard not to be.

 

 

Ryan

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Before my Silverado, the most I ever got out of a set of tires was 12k miles. Got 32k out of the OEM Bridgestone Dueller A/T's - that's my new record. I'd have to live on a highway to get anywhere close to 100k ... and I still don't think that's possible. I'm in too much of a hurry all the time ...

 

Had BFG's on my '94 K1500. Only had about 15k on them when I sold it. They weren't long for this world either. Those wore pretty fast, compared to the glorified car tires I run now.

Edited by Jsdirt
Posted

My Goodyear Eagle GT's have about 56k on them. Decent tire for road use. I dont care for all terrain tires.

Posted

Don't know about the KO2 s, but the old AT KO s I've run on several 2wd over the years and got around 80k on each set. One truck was a big block '69 & the last set was on a Cherokee.

Posted (edited)

Finally installed my front floor LED lighting.....I was planning on doing the rear seat also but I have LED's in my dome light and they provide enough light to see clearly on the rear floor.

 

71dd0ed670b7e4518170ebcf83002fe3.jpg

Edited by BlackZ71Silverado
  • Like 2
Posted

You would be surprised how much more it brightens up the rear seats. Especially under the rear seat. Finish it off

 

 

Ryan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 4,376 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...