Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Bought 80 gallons of diesel at Walmart south of little rock for 2.04 a gallon. Yesterday bought 80 gallons in Indiana for 2.30 a gallon at a speedway.

Posted (edited)

Well yesterday couldn't top off do to lean towards fill cap in bed tank. Today lean was other way so tank has all it could hold. I say I burnt about 70 gallons pulling Grey Wolf camper 770 miles @ 65 mph yesterday and today before refueling.

 

My 2500 holds 110 gallons.

Edited by Chevor
Posted (edited)

After the last rain storm that tore my road up so bad I think I broke something on the truck. I'm getting a new clunking noise while driving, doesn't do it over bumps so I don't think it's ball joints, I'm thinking it's my sway bar end links, the bushings are shot too so I'll probably replace them all so I know there all good.

Been chasing a rear suspension (I suspect) noise in my truck for months. Whenever I hit a good sized bump, it sounds like I've got a load of small stones in back that go airborne and then land. I suspected the straps, wheel chocks, and blocks of wood that were laying back there. Also suspected my Roll-Bak tonneau. None of it is the cause. Everything is tight underneath. No broken springs, worn out shackles, loose lug nuts, or anything out of the ordinary. Aired the bags up to max ... then completely deflated ... then put them back at 5psi. No change. All the hardware for the bags is solid.

 

Driving me friggin nuts!! I've had more damn problems with noise on this truck right off the showroom floor, than ANY of the POS beaters I've driven since I was 16 years old! WTF. :banghead:

Edited by Jsdirt
Posted

Looks good!

 

Never had any luck with LED's up here - they all start failing after the first winter. I'm sure they've improved the quality of them in the past 8 years though, but I still have dead LED's on my car trailer. There's 13 LED's in each lamp, but only 6 work on one side and 8 on the other. Moisture always seems to get in.

 

The truck ones I bought at Recon back then - all their stuff was low quality garbage, I quickly learned. Those might work fine in FL, CA, or AZ, but not up here. Some of their stuff was DOA right out of the box too.

Posted

Been chasing a rear suspension (I suspect) noise in my truck for months. Whenever I hit a good sized bump, it sounds like I've got a load of small stones in back that go airborne and then land. I suspected the straps, wheel chocks, and blocks of wood that were laying back there. Also suspected my Roll-Bak tonneau. None of it is the cause. Everything is tight underneath. No broken springs, worn out shackles, loose lug nuts, or anything out of the ordinary. Aired the bags up to max ... then completely deflated ... then put them back at 5psi. No change. All the hardware for the bags is solid.

 

Driving me friggin nuts!! I've had more damn problems with noise on this truck right off the showroom floor, than ANY of the POS beaters I've driven since I was 16 years old! WTF. :banghead:

Tell me about it. What is odd to me is it is the same sound the previous truck started to make as well. Never found the problem. I also suspect the steering shaft that caused a similar sound in this generation. I've already replaced both the inner and outer tie rods when I first bought the truck but I'm going to check them again anyway. There are still many, many repairs I need to make on this truck. Time is my biggest problem right now.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

5815e93f21c4782c9f00de248447b805.jpg

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

Needs top and bottom tailgate bar to look good

101_0178_zpsno2ma6tg.jpg?w=480&h=480&fit

 

Bought 45 gallons of diesel @ 2.10 a gallon in Charlotte, MI at Meijer. About 718,500 on the truck now.

Edited by Chevor
Posted

I need another under the bumper and a lighted headache rack.

Posted (edited)

Gave it a quick Bath

 

Used my new cart too

 

32ed9939199c5c98af38b548f25dae0f.jpg

 

694db770e874ff13c258bd10aee4d9ee.jpg

 

 

Ryan

Edited by RyanbabZ71
Posted

Might be keeping it a while. Thinking I need to put "more" away for the future. If the preliminary diagnosis holds up, I have a systemic autoimmune disease that less than .002%(if what I read on a medical site is correct) of the population has.

 

Enough of that subject, with those odds....

Time to buy a lotto ticket? (And stay indoors during storms).

 

:lol:

 

 

Oh well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...