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Posted (edited)

My wife wanted to take it to work and I told her she was overreacting. The road cant get more than 6 inches of water unless that entire part of town flooded the way its made(south part of road has a 4-5 inch embankment and on the other side is a massive 5 foot deep drainage ditch). Her response was "FINE IF I END UP IN A DITCH YOU CAN TELL THE BOYS ITS YOUR FAULT".

 

Yeah, real mature, and that makes sense. Not to mention if it was that bad you would see a line of cars blocking the road or stuck first, that you have to drive around to get yourself killed.

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted

Changed transfer case fluid

 

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c809960e1a03ec00a584fa30eb3c7b46.jpg

 

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Found my front skid plate has a bunch of cracks in it. Found a metal one on eBay and ordered. Thanks for the info Rich

 

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Ryan

No blue Auto-Trak fluid?

Posted

No blue Auto-Trak fluid?

Pretty sure newer tcases take just trans fluid. My 02 takes auto trak and my 14 takes ATF
Posted (edited)

My 2006 takes auto trak.

 

Today I pulled apart the weatherpak connector for my knock sensors and flipped the wires. I had been showing a 332, and sure enough the code switched to 327. Moral of the story: don't buy parts from Oriellys. Apparently they got me a bad knock sensor.

Edited by kstruckcountry
Posted

My 2006 takes auto trak.

 

Today I pulled apart the weatherpak connector for my knock sensors and flipped the wires. I had been showing a 332, and sure enough the code switched to 327. Moral of the story: don't buy parts from Oriellys. Apparently they got me a bad knock sensor.

Told you AcD
  • Like 1
Posted

Oh, I did finish my lifted truck up today. Complete front end rebuild as well as put my Performabuilt trans put back in. Can't wait to get an inspection and get her aligned so I can take her out next weekend!

  • Like 1
Posted

Autotrac fluid is for the gmt800s. 07+ use trains fluid

 

 

Ryan

Posted

Now you have them. I told you from the start

Posted (edited)

My Tahoe calls for Auto Trac II with its auto transfer case. Because someone wobt believe me, I have the 2007 Tahoe PDF manual screenshot below:

 

49b54db4fa7cc3e5b790690bf6d337a8.jpg

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted (edited)

Gotta love GM for keeping things consistent ... :rolleyes:

 

I used the same Amsoil in my tranny & transfer case. Been in there since '12. I have the NQH (MP3023) Auto, but that's the correct oil for mine.

Edited by Jsdirt
Posted

I replaced that front plastic piece with a metal one when I had my '99. It was nice knowing she was a bit more protected from road hazards. As for the truck today, just a drive in the rain.

Posted

Got a first-hand demonstration yesterday of the differences between a Duramax and a 5.3.

 

My brother's '02 D-max died out in NY, 3.5 hours plus from home. Crank, no-fire deal. Electronics strike again, of course ... but that's another rant for another day ...

 

We used my flatbed trailer and my dad's '09 D-max to go get it. My truck has been making some driveline noises since new that are getting pretty loud as of late with 76k on the clock, so towing 9k lbs all that way wasn't a good idea.

 

MAN what a difference - night and day! I'd have been screaming redline on every hill - the D-max just chugged right up all of them without even breaking a sweat! Amazing. I guess spending another $30k on top of $30k nets you some results, lol. Too bad they're all junk after 10 years though, at least in this part of the country.

 

If only GM could build the rest of their trucks as good as they build drivelines. I stepped on the E-brake in the '09 - SNAP. Stupid thing breaks. 81k on the clock, WTF! Our '86 Grand Marquis that's almost 30 years old, 222k miles, and been in our ownership for 12.5 years still has the original e-brake and cables. May fool the younger guys, but us guys that have been around know things can be done better. GM ... are you awake?? :nonod:

 

Anyway, I still don't tow enough to justify the added expense, so I'll be running my lowly half ton until it snaps in half or rusts out completely.

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