Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I'm having an X GM Oshawa assembly line worker coming over to get his 2003 Z71 cluster repaired. We might have a great discussion when he gets here. His job for 4 years was installing clusters. lol

Edited by Coby7
  • Like 1
Posted

Ordered. I wonder what moron thought it would be a good idea to have them plastic to begin with...

 

ffb4d11cdb8db91c04b5e760162faf4f.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

I've been asking that question since the late 70's ... :)

  • Like 1
Posted

Weight reduction

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Driver side tabs here are bent. Have to debate on robbing this one or using persuasion to straighten it out4aadd7c585cf7bbee32841f45b1a2532.jpg

75145bb5858bc02ab2f104c95b446b08.jpg

Had my heater going

8258a976b227027f0b7939247ddf184d.jpg

 

And my dog on the blanket behind me

d0967060a5f57786bd8efaeea73164d8.jpg

 

This is the old driver side one

ec6e5960cedef324590ea1d6f837fc0c.jpg

 

And the bent part of the frame where it mounts

227bd2e444e21c24b4c017d79215aa3b.jpg

 

My air ratchet is the best $20 harbor freight purchase I have made

  • Like 3
Posted

I had to laugh at your heater. Different world over there from the Northeast! It was 0.8°F this morning here. Got up to a whopping 18° for a high, briefly. I had my waste oil burner full bore for 7 hours straight just to get the barn up to 58° - that's over ONE MILLION BTU's. :)

 

I'd get some torches going and persuade the parts back to where they should be. You might have to shim a few pieces here and there to get everything looking straight.

 

I don't envy my buddy, who did that kind of work day in and day out for 15 years. I've done body repair work only 5 times ever, and my neighborhood could hear me cursing 2 miles out each time, LOL.

 

 

 

I finally installed a new pressure regulator on my 15 year old (in a few months) Craftsman air compressor. Took it apart, and aside from being rusty, there was a busted E clip inside. I probably could've fixed it and kept it going another decade or 2. Installed the new one, and threw this one in a ziploc bag with the rest of my junk for spare parts down the road.

 

Got this '60's or 70's Craftsman lawnmower running (thing is in MINT shape - just needs a good cleaning), and finished the Volvo - it needed the power steering belt tightened after the adjuster busted (rust), and I also had to put the 2 caps back on the shrader valves on the fuel line, and stuff the grommet back in place for the fuel pump wiring harness. For the p/s pump belt tension, I just loosened all the pivots, grabbed my 3' prybar and put a little tension on it, then hogged down the bolts. Fixed! Saved the guy $45 for a new adjuster. Also mickey-moused the front air dam so it wasn't dragging on the road anymore. Looks like someone drove through a snowbank at 40 with the thing. To finish it off, I scraped the remnants of a little convex mirror off the driver's side outside rearview mirror, entered the lock code & set some decent presets in the radio, and set the analog clock in the instrument panel to the correct time.

 

Got quite a bit done today, despite the frigid temps.

 

downsize_zpszkptctci.jpg

 

1216161328_zpsy3phhvva.jpg

 

1216161850_zpsunyjjbcr.jpg

 

IMG_6751_zpsi9hz29zn.jpg

 

 

 

A rainbow for REAL men ... :lol::D:lol:

IMG_6749_zpswwmevmls.jpg

 

IMG_6745_zpshimqr6zf.jpg

 

IMG_6748_zpsf3dzfgif.jpg

Posted

I had to laugh at your heater. Different world over there from the Northeast! It was 0.8°F this morning here. Got up to a whopping 18° for a high, briefly. I had my waste oil burner full bore for 7 hours straight just to get the barn up to 58° - that's over ONE MILLION BTU's. :)

 

I'd get some torches going and persuade the parts back to where they should be. You might have to shim a few pieces here and there to get everything looking straight.

 

I don't envy my buddy, who did that kind of work day in and day out for 15 years. I've done body repair work only 5 times ever, and my neighborhood could hear me cursing 2 miles out each time, LOL.

 

 

 

I finally installed a new pressure regulator on my 15 year old (in a few months) Craftsman air compressor. Took it apart, and aside from being rusty, there was a busted E clip inside. I probably could've fixed it and kept it going another decade or 2. Installed the new one, and threw this one in a ziploc bag with the rest of my junk for spare parts down the road.

 

Got this '60's or 70's Craftsman lawnmower running (thing is in MINT shape - just needs a good cleaning), and finished the Volvo - it needed the power steering belt tightened after the adjuster busted (rust), and I also had to put the 2 caps back on the shrader valves on the fuel line, and stuff the grommet back in place for the fuel pump wiring harness. For the p/s pump belt tension, I just loosened all the pivots, grabbed my 3' prybar and put a little tension on it, then hogged down the bolts. Fixed! Saved the guy $45 for a new adjuster. Also mickey-moused the front air dam so it wasn't dragging on the road anymore. Looks like someone drove through a snowbank at 40 with the thing. To finish it off, I scraped the remnants of a little convex mirror off the driver's side outside rearview mirror, entered the lock code & set some decent presets in the radio, and set the analog clock in the instrument panel to the correct time.

 

Got quite a bit done today, despite the frigid temps.

 

downsize_zpszkptctci.jpg

 

1216161328_zpsy3phhvva.jpg

 

1216161850_zpsunyjjbcr.jpg

 

IMG_6751_zpsi9hz29zn.jpg

 

 

 

A rainbow for REAL men ... :lol::D:lol:

IMG_6749_zpswwmevmls.jpg

 

IMG_6745_zpshimqr6zf.jpg

 

IMG_6748_zpsf3dzfgif.jpg

I got my body repair experience rebuilding a wrecked 2011 f150. But that was mainly part replacement and alignment of panels. I'm only $760 deep so far. That is frame section, grille, lights, braces, headlight brackets, and bumper reinforcements. I'm piecing it together to find deals. Still need the front fender and all the special Denali bumper cover stuff.

Posted

Wow, you did good there.

 

My sapling incident didn't look as bad, but it still cost me $2,200 after all was said and done. A large chunk of that was having to go on the frame machine to straighten the box, and for bodywork & paint. Cost me over $400 in parts, just for the stupid small section of chrome "bumper" (a poor excuse for a bumper) and a bunch of braces, and some plastic. The the GMT900 was only 2 years old then, so parts costs were insane.

Posted (edited)

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_6748_zpsf3dzfgif.jpg

Hmm I like that John Deere 826 or 1032 Snowblower that looks like didn't get spray painted properly for touch up work.. Let's see that thing.

Edited by Colossus
Posted

Wow, you did good there.

 

My sapling incident didn't look as bad, but it still cost me $2,200 after all was said and done. A large chunk of that was having to go on the frame machine to straighten the box, and for bodywork & paint. Cost me over $400 in parts, just for the stupid small section of chrome "bumper" (a poor excuse for a bumper) and a bunch of braces, and some plastic. The the GMT900 was only 2 years old then, so parts costs were insane.

I still have to paint, the stupid color I have requires the whole truck to be painted to get it correct. I've parked side by side with an identical truck, if not from the same batch it doesn't look great

Posted

One of those hard-to-blend colors - my buddy was telling me about that. Said if you paint one section, it will stand out like a sore thumb to the other sections. That sucks. Paint costs have skyrocketed the past 8 years.

 

 

Hmm I like that John Deere 826 or 1032 Snowblower that looks like didn't get spray painted properly for touch up work.. Let's see that thing.

1032 - not much to see. Got it free - I wouldn't buy something that looked this bad, lol. It didn't run, and now it does - just needed a carb clean / tank flush, like the mower.

 

IMG_6744_zpssff9eqcg.jpg

Posted

Drove in the snow today. I have to say my michelen ltx ms2 tires are terrible in the snow. I have about 40k miles on them and really wish it was in the budget to get rid of these things.

Posted

One of those hard-to-blend colors - my buddy was telling me about that. Said if you paint one section, it will stand out like a sore thumb to the other sections. That sucks. Paint costs have skyrocketed the past 8 years.

 

 

1032 - not much to see. Got it free - I wouldn't buy something that looked this bad, lol. It didn't run, and now it does - just needed a carb clean / tank flush, like the mower.

 

IMG_6744_zpssff9eqcg.jpg

They are good machines. That one is an early 80s model. Keep on top of the side skid shoes and the scraper blade. I just parted out my 1032 I purchased last year. Turns out the bottom was rusted out big time because the previous owner didn't replace the scraper blade and it was ground down and yeah. Would have required a lot of welding and what not to fix. Sold it for parts and will get me another one eventually. I've also owned a 826 that I really liked too.

 

Also- What kind of car do you have in background.. Mercury or Lincoln? 86-89 vintage, perhaps?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...