Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So seeing I never got any responses from the other post I hijacked ( http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=140871 ) I figured I would start my own. So here is my issue. Let me know what you think! tks!

 

My truck is a 2004 GMC 2500 WT w/6.0L. I checked for draw through negative battery cable and got a similar reading of 1.26 amps average. I pulled every fuse and relay (and let me tell you that it takes a while when you do it by yourself and have to check each one individually!!!) and narrowed my readings to the following (listed as apparent current draw after fuse removed and left out):

 

Starting current draw - 1.26 amps

remove radio fuse - 0.58 amps (radio appears to draw 0.68 amps)

remove IPC/DIC fuse - 0.13 amps (0.45 amp draw)

remove TBC Batt fuse - 0.07 amps (0.06 amp draw)

remove Stud #2 fuse (large 30amp) - 0.04 amps (0.03 amp draw)

At this point there was still a 0.04 amp draw that I could not pinpoint with any fuse or relay in either fuseblock.

 

So, what does this tell me? I scanned for DTC's (before disconnecting battery with help from booster pack) and only got a low voltage code which was expected. Are any or all of these abnormal? I'm thinking some maybe ok, but the radio and cluster seem a bit high to me??

Posted

How clean is the battery case? Not unusual to get very minor "leakage" across a dirty battery case. Generally more common with top post batteries. Put a light bulb in place of the ammeter. If the light comes on, there is enough "leakage" to kill the battery. If it does not come on, chances are good the leakage is not enough to worry about.

Does your truck have the retained power stuff on it? Are you waiting the 10 minutes for that to time out before checking?

Posted

There are a couple TSBs out there for a battery drain issue on 03-07 GM fullsizers.

 

My 07 had a BCM/PCM reprogram to cure this issue.

Posted

Thanks for the replies. I've been too busy to have another look it lately, but will check again soon. Where can I find out about the TSB's?

Posted

When you were checking the curent draw, did you wait a few minutes with everything turned off? I noticed that my 2011 current was high for much longer than I would expect after shutting down. But eventually it dropped to 30 mA or so which is expected.

Posted (edited)

Google "silverado battery drain"

02066 DEC 02 Campaign - BCM Reprogramming for Battery Drain

 

 

 

General Motors has decided that certain 2003 model year Chevrolet Silverado, Tahoe, and Suburban; 2003 model year GMC Sierra, Yukon, and Yukon XL; and 2003 model year Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT, and Escalade ESV vehicles equipped with Quadrasteer (NYS), Autoride (Z55), or Vehicle Stability Enhancement/StabiliTrak (JL4) may have the potential of exhibiting a battery drain condition. An anomaly in the operation of the steering wheel position sensor may keep the Body Control Module (BCM) from shutting down when the key is in the OFF position. The resultant 3.5 amp draw/load on the battery could possibly discharge the battery to the point where the battery will not have sufficient amperage to start the vehicle.

 

This is one of SEVERAL and various years. Same TSB for my 07!

 

 

Edited by sonjaab
Posted

Well, I had a chance to have a quick look tonight and my battery is toast! I left it disconnected and charged it slowly a couple of times to try to revive it, but after sitting fora couple days it was down to 10-11 volts. I didn't wait very long when checking the draw, so it might drop out. I'll check when I get some more time. I just hope that it was the battery all along as I don't want to kill a new battery if there is a phantom load on it.

Posted

I got one of those solar chargers plugged into the cigerette lighter and my Battery has always been good. My truck has sit for long periods of time and then when I get in, no issues, it starts right up.

Posted

Thanks for the replies. I've been too busy to have another look it lately, but will check again soon. Where can I find out about the TSB's?

 

 

If you would like, PM me the last 8-digits of your VIN and I can check if there is any additional information, regarding battery drain issues, available for your vehicle.

 

I look forward to your reply.

 

Louis

GM Customer Service

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
Posted

My father's 2003 has the same problem. Pull the IPC/DIC and the draw reduces to 3.22 mili amps. I have been trying to fix it for the last two days. I was hoping that the instrument cluster itself wasn't the problem. He bought new and it only has 50,000 miles on it. If Louis /GM Customer Service is still available the last 8 of the VIN is 31185462.

 

Thanks for any help or suggestions

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
Posted

for those of you that have a rear radio control in the back seat monitor the draw then unplug the rear control head on this 05 chevy silverado the draw was gone no more dead battery.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Battery Draw in today's vehicles especially Light GM trucks is pretty common. The ECU is active and so is On-Star as well as parasytic drains like headlight run-on, etc. 1999 - current production use a pretty small battery to begin with. Mine died 2 days after the 36 month prorata warranty ran out. I decided to do something about it bought a battery back-up system from ATC-Guardiansys.com. It was easier to create a defense by giving nyself an extra battery that is isolated from everything until I decide when to use it. Works gret and allows me to add auxillairy equipment without worrying about my starting battery any more. 300.00 later I don;t worry about it any more.

 

http://www.atct-guardiansys.com/

 

dbrakeman

Posted

The instrument cluster IPC turned out to be my problem. It came out very easily and I sent it to a Speedometer Shop in Sallisaw, OK for repair, believe it cost a little under 100.00 dollars. A little difficult to diagnose because the excess draw/short was not always consistent. The install of a back up battery pack is a great idea, but I would still get the problem fixed.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I eventually tracked my problem down to a "headlight / dome light switch". problem solved. It was intermittent and I chased it for the past 4 years.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks for all that information, I might purchase one and see if it will work for me, if not they may let me return it! Yes for sure the tires are definitely within limit for my truck empty, and when I do tow I'll definitely make sure to raise the rear psi for the amount of weight that's going to be on it.
    • Yes exactly, more and more these days people/companies are afraid of liability issues so its easier just to say no rather than risk putting their neck on the line.    I will say with the Autel unit or when I used it last year on my truck, it wasn't like I could choose the 2025 model year or even the 2024 model year as that option was not there to manipulate the placard pressures but had to go back to 2023 or there abouts and then it showed up as an option, odd but that was how the software was then and I can't say one way or the other now as they throw out updates every so often. I still would talk to your tire dealer though to start with and they may do it for nothing but also they may have a comment on a better unit to purchase. All I know is that one of the large tire shops in my area happens to use these Autel units for their use and set them up to use the wifi and all of that jazz for constant updating because each tire tech has one handed to them by the shop but I just plugged it into my laptop to update it and yes if one is bought it has to be registered so you can get the link to do updates and then the unit has to be updated before its even used. I am not at all techy so it took me a bit but anyway just a heads up for anything you buy, most likely it will need to be connected to a computer to access the internet to have it updated to the latest software version before you can put it to use.   If your truck is near empty, those tire pressures you listed are a very safe upper range pressures to carry the weight, both the front and rear as I know they could be run lower yet with an empty truck. And if its a trailer and not some motorcycle your going to strap onto the front of your truck on a rack, you shouldn't have a need to inflate your front tires if your at 55 front already, its the rear ones that would need more air if you have much hitch weight. 
    • Thank you, I'll check that Autel scanner out and see if it will work for me! Ya I can see GM's point of view if they lower the psi set value for someone and the person sell's the truck and the new owner puts the factory tires back on then their could be liability issues cause the psi warning light wasn't coming on when the tires were under inflated for towing their load and then it might be able to be traced back to GM lowering it.
    • I had a similar but different response when I talked to the service manager where I bought my truck in that he said GM corporate won't allow them to lower the placard pressure setting as they would get their hand slapped but that of course they have the ability to make that change. His suggestion was simply go to a tire dealer or third party shop that is willing to reset the pressures lower. However I chose to buy a tpms tool and partly based off of this very forum as it had been proven to work on the 2024 model ( Global B system ) and while I could have paid lots for a full two way diag tool, I didn't want to spend that much and bought the recommended Autel TS 508 and it will reprogram the 2025 model and assume it should do the 2026 as well. However the tool is rather proprietary to reprogramming Autel tpms sensors so that is a function I will never use, where as a real two way scanner would have many uses but also have yearly subscriptions etc where this 508 is free updates for as long as they put updates out for the unit. In any event it worked to lower the placard pressures and I often use it to adjust my actual tire pressures although will check with a mechanical gauge as well sometimes just to make sure that tires tpms sensor isn't lying to me.    My suggestion is either buy a tool that you know will work to adjust the system or start out by getting the tire shop you bought your tires from to reset your truck and if after that you still want a unit to do it yourself, get one at that point. 
    • Here is an image of a quick Google search about these tires on my truck and it's exactly same psi recommendation the Toyo tires company gave me!    I'm not looking for anyone else recommended psi or anything, I'm just looking to see if anyone knew a way to get rid of the factory low psi warning light, because I'm not running high psi and ruining my tires when I'm not towing! 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...