Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

thanks..ill have to look it over and make a choice..

But for the price difference, I may just go with the 6"

 

Part#: MXT-K881364
Lift Height: 6"
Shocks: Rear MaxTrac Shocks

Vehicle: Chevy Silverado 1500 2015 2WD, w/ Cast Steel Control Arms

 

:):driving:

  • Like 1
Posted

So i have a question, does anyone have pics of their truck or someone elses truck that has the 4" or 6" lift with the stock wheels and tires...basically before the tires and wheel upgrade..

For me when i do the lift, it will be months before i can get the tires to replace the current ones.. so wanted to see what it would look like before i do it.. i know it will look odd, but im willing to live with that if its not super bad..

 

I mean if it looks like how monster trucks look when they have the small street wheels/tires on it, then i may hold off..

Posted

So i have a question, does anyone have pics of their truck or someone elses truck that has the 4" or 6" lift with the stock wheels and tires...basically before the tires and wheel upgrade..

For me when i do the lift, it will be months before i can get the tires to replace the current ones.. so wanted to see what it would look like before i do it.. i know it will look odd, but im willing to live with that if its not super bad..

 

I mean if it looks like how monster trucks look when they have the small street wheels/tires on it, then i may hold off..

If you're going to commit to this, do it right, don't half ass it. Go with what has been tried and tested to work, if you want 6", go with BDS, Zone, ProComp, RC....those are the kits that are widely used. I recommend Zone because i have their kit and it worked great out the box, plus they answered their phone when i called them about a backspacing question. That to me has won me over.

 

I just recently did the Zone 6.5, 20" Method NV wheels and BFG Ko2 35's, so satisfying to see it all in and working great all at once.

Posted (edited)

thanks..ill have to look it over and make a choice..

But for the price difference, I may just go with the 6"

 

Part#: MXT-K881364

Lift Height: 6"

Shocks: Rear MaxTrac Shocks

Vehicle: Chevy Silverado 1500 2015 2WD, w/ Cast Steel Control Arms

 

:):driving:

Do yourself and your truck a favor and just spend a couple hundred dollars more and get the Zone 6.5 lift, I have never heard of Maxtrac and that in itself is scary, because I did a shit ton of research on suspension lifts before I settled on the Zone 6.5

 

Do not half ass this project.

Edited by arkenzo
Posted (edited)

I recommend you save your money and do the lift, wheels and tires all at once. Get what suits your budget but do it in one shot. Truck is going to look like a hippo trying to dance ballet lifted with the OE wheels and tires. Besides you wouldn't buy a saddle if you didn't own a horse would you?

Edited by Lgetz
  • Like 1
Posted

Besides you wouldn't buy a saddle if you didn't own a horse would you?

Hot diggity damn, trademark that shit right there.

 

 

 

Yeeeeeeeeehaaaaaaa :driving:

Posted

Hot diggity damn, trademark that shit right there.

 

 

 

Yeeeeeeeeehaaaaaaa :driving:

 

I also like the one I've seen on the board....

 

"It will look like your truck skips leg day at the gym"

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

I'm actually not joking at all haha. And for a couple reasons, as others have said you may not get a full return on your lift kit but that's a "Well no shit" statement but you will normally get more for it with a quality kit vs a stock truck especially in the south and California. Two, if the best lift manufacturers didn't need to cut some things to make their lifts work like you'd expect they wouldn't. But your definitely no engineer, they need to in order to make their kits work properly, accounting for new angles and camber adjustments, you name it. So at the end of the day if you want to lift it, lift it and do so with a kit your gonna love. Don't compromise for some future dudes few extra bucks (or lack the thereof as discussed) all those years down the road. Enjoy your truck. That's what it's all about.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I agree, buy quality inside of junk and love your ride - I have a hard time chopping up a new truck that's all. Your making a couple of assumptions, no I don't design kits, but I do have a mechanical engineering background.

 

Anyways, my option would be to select the 4 or 6 or 8" kit vs the 4 or 4.5 that does cutting of transfer cases, cross members, etc. That's my main point.I was merely stating the facts for people to make a conscious decision when they go to purchase. Chopping your truck is not ALWAYS necessary - you can look for other options in other quality kits or lift sizes within the same brand.

 

There are some great trucks on here, I'm not taking away anything from either of them no matter what route they took. keep em coming

Edited by tanner709
Posted

Here's mine with the zone 6.5 lift

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

side shot? wheel size? them look like 26's

Posted

side shot? wheel size? them look like 26's

Yes they are 26 chrome velocitys on 295 streetsaebca9872e08c6b0c9acc948c8fe0a15.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Yes they are 26 chrome velocitys on 295 streets

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

Right on the money! That truck has all kinds of lean on it bro, just the front zone 6.5 installed? please explain

Posted

 

Right on the money! That truck has all kinds of lean on it bro, just the front zone 6.5 installed? please explain

Yeah man I installed the zone 6.5 on the front only I didn't lift the rear the rear is stock I'm from the Carolinas we call it Carolina squat but it looks better in person thou

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Posted

Yeah man I installed the zone 6.5 on the front only I didn't lift the rear the rear is stock I'm from the Carolinas we call it Carolina squat but it looks better in person thou

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

sounds good man, we got all kinds of trends in socal too, how does it ride?

Posted

sounds good man, we got all kinds of trends in socal too, how does it ride?

Tbh rides alot better then I thought it would pretty much factory thou only issue is sometimes I have a problem whenever I'm turning due to the fact that I lifted the front only and I'm only 5ft 7in tall so I got a couple if blind spots I'm still debating on putting on the rear thou I got 4.5 in blocks for the rear

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,764
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Tbhats2130
    Newest Member
    Tbhats2130
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,050 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Google converting 98 4.3 spider injection to carburetor if all else fails. 
    • My centre console USB ports haven’t been working and the one in the glovebox is starting to act up. When I plug my phone into the cord the radio will go black and stop playing, and the CarPlay is inconsistent.   I checked the fuses and they were fine. I changed the USB port out and still nothing. Hoping for some advice on what I should be looking at.  
    • The truck is a 1995 Chevrolet S10 Blazer, 4.3 VIN "W" engine. :cracks knuckles:   On a whim - because I needed a headache - this truck was for sale so I stopped to take a look. Doesn't run. Well, it does, but barely. Long crank, choppy idle, bad misfire(s), it REEKS of fuel. I can DO this..I'm thinking. Diamond in the rough. One owner until last year. A young guy is selling it, he bought it 6 months ago. It stranded him more than once, he's got a newborn. It was in the shop 10 days ago and he "thinks" they said it needs a new fuel injection system. He can't put any more money into it, needs it gone. I was thinking of upgrading my Macbook, which is a total want, not a need. For less than the price of a new laptop I can have fun for months tinkering on this truck and enjoying it. I'm taking this truck home. The guy was beyond thrilled, his wife was there, she thanked me profusely, I could tell they were hurting. They seemed like good people in a bind.   Some parts, a wash, maybe a set of tires, and I can have a few months of fun and then turn it for beer money (or the next project).   Sure enough, there's a work order from a shop last week in the INCHES of paperwork on this truck dating back to when the first owner bought it. They put a new distributor in it, fuel injection work describes basically opening the plenum and putting it back together. He said he couldn't afford any more work so he had them button it up and that's when he put it up for sale.   I'm not well versed in 4.3. I did discover 1995 uses the 1992-1995 SCPI "Spider" injector which is riddled with issues from splitting lines, clogged or cracked poppet valves and plastic spider legs that crumble over time. Cool. I'll just order me a ne---. Oh, the auto parts store doesn't have it? Rock Auto doesn't have it. eBay? $$$$$$ for used. These are UNAVAILABLE period end of story unless you know "a guy" who's still got one in a box somewhere.   Can't upgrade to the '96-'04 injector, it's a different plenum, wiring/pinout and sensor config.   There are a few kinda "know a guy" -guy rebuild services for these injectors out there for about $350. Okay, Okay... I'd like to know if anyone has used them? Anyone got a lead on these crappy 92-95 spiders?   I also don't want to send MY spider to Narnia and back without knowing if that's truly the problem. I guess I'll need to pull apart the plenum and do some digging.   I was also thrown for a loop. This 1995 model year truck has an OBD-II connector. The interface is decidedly not OBD-II. I can read and reset trouble codes and view live data, but there's not a lot of data. Like misfire count and on what cylinder, that's not there. It's OBD-1.5.   Nothing is ever easy. Now it makes sense why this guy wanted to disappear this thing for cheap. I'm guessing the shop told him the injector is toast, the part is unobtainable and they're not going to sort sending the thing to a rando offering rebuild service on craigslist, and the kid likely can't be without a working car for 3 weeks even if they'd facilitate that.   Experience with these early SCPI's? Stories? Things to check? Sympathy? (..Nah...)   This can sit until I sort it. But I haven't had a problem with a vehicle I couldn't easily solve in a long time.    
    • I have four that read by the dash 8 to 10% better than miles/pump calculations and I have one that is spot on. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...