Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

FINALLY!! After 5 missed delivery dates and constant pushbacks from FOX, we have just recevied our order of FOX 2.0 coilover systems. If you have a current order, it will ship Monday, please be on the lookout for an email update.

If youd like to get your own, please use this link
http://shop.mrtmotorsports.net/fox-racing-shocks/fox-20-performance-series-shocks/98502018fullset/i-3735491.aspx

Have a great weekend.

Posted

Hey All, just want to say thanks for everyones posts and information they've added to the forums. So now that I've been contemplating this for a few months and have read over 400+ Pages of Lifts + Tire/Wheel Setups, I think I am set on what I want to get. Just looking for some answers and even just peoples opinions on it. This is on a 2016 1500 LTZ Z71 Crew Cab 5.3L Midnight Edition

 

I am just confirming that a suspension lift is much safer for the truck than getting even a BDS level. I want a 35'' tire on 4.5 Zone lift, but that's only if lifts are that much safer for your truck than levels.

 

My ideal setup is the Zone 4.5 Suspension Lift on 35x12.5x20 or 295x65x20 (Thinner so it might not rub), on some Fuel Assault Wheels (http://www.fueloffroad.com/assault-d546-w-18791.htm) with +20 Offset. I know people have ran tires this size with a 4'' BDS without rubbing but they also had +7 more offset from stock rims. Anyone have any thoughts on if it might rub or not? And if those rims would look good on a midnight edition ? I haven't seen anyone with the rims driving around yet.

 

The tire my heart wants is a Toyo MT, but my brain is telling me to do an RT due to the fact that I will rarely be going off road. I understand it's a truck and I will be taking a huge MPG loss, but the MT's just look much more aggressive than the RT's, which is what I like.

 

I am also curious about Add A Leaf, Since I am doing the Zone 4.5 Lift, do I need to add it? I am not a fan of the rear being much higher than the front. I like a more leveled look.

 

I know the Zone Lift pushes the wheels out 1.5 inches, so I will get spacers for the back wheels, but I read somethings about hub centric rings. I am not sure what those would be needed for. If someone could explain that would be awesome.

 

I also will be doing the Fox Shock Add On if they are better than the Nitro that come with Zone, or would it be better to purchase 4 shocks for all corners? Options?

 

Last thing, I'm assuming most people do a lot of their mods before their truck is paid off. I know I'll be doing this while I still owe on it, but just hard to swallow the truth. Thanks for reading/helping! Everyone posting in these forums has been a huge help!

Posted

So question to all the guys who have a 4inch suspension lift (BDS) with 33 inch tires. How tall is your overall truck now?

 

Does the whole truck lift up 4inches or just the front and the back by like 2 since the rack?

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

So question to all the guys who have a 4inch suspension lift (BDS) with 33 inch tires. How tall is your overall truck now?

 

Does the whole truck lift up 4inches or just the front and the back by like 2 since the rack?

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

i have a 4.5" Zone and I went from about 36.5 front to 42.5 and 39 rear to 41.75

 

90477d92020d2a5a30ead2cbe1067be6.jpg

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by wildchevys
Posted

Hey All, just want to say thanks for everyones posts and information they've added to the forums. So now that I've been contemplating this for a few months and have read over 400+ Pages of Lifts + Tire/Wheel Setups, I think I am set on what I want to get. Just looking for some answers and even just peoples opinions on it. This is on a 2016 1500 LTZ Z71 Crew Cab 5.3L Midnight Edition

 

I am just confirming that a suspension lift is much safer for the truck than getting even a BDS level. I want a 35'' tire on 4.5 Zone lift, but that's only if lifts are that much safer for your truck than levels.

 

My ideal setup is the Zone 4.5 Suspension Lift on 35x12.5x20 or 295x65x20 (Thinner so it might not rub), on some Fuel Assault Wheels (http://www.fueloffroad.com/assault-d546-w-18791.htm) with +20 Offset. I know people have ran tires this size with a 4'' BDS without rubbing but they also had +7 more offset from stock rims. Anyone have any thoughts on if it might rub or not? And if those rims would look good on a midnight edition ? I haven't seen anyone with the rims driving around yet.

 

The tire my heart wants is a Toyo MT, but my brain is telling me to do an RT due to the fact that I will rarely be going off road. I understand it's a truck and I will be taking a huge MPG loss, but the MT's just look much more aggressive than the RT's, which is what I like.

 

I am also curious about Add A Leaf, Since I am doing the Zone 4.5 Lift, do I need to add it? I am not a fan of the rear being much higher than the front. I like a more leveled look.

 

I know the Zone Lift pushes the wheels out 1.5 inches, so I will get spacers for the back wheels, but I read somethings about hub centric rings. I am not sure what those would be needed for. If someone could explain that would be awesome.

 

I also will be doing the Fox Shock Add On if they are better than the Nitro that come with Zone, or would it be better to purchase 4 shocks for all corners? Options?

 

Last thing, I'm assuming most people do a lot of their mods before their truck is paid off. I know I'll be doing this while I still owe on it, but just hard to swallow the truth. Thanks for reading/helping! Everyone posting in these forums has been a huge help!

Not quite sure what you mean by " much safer"

A 2 inch level is way less obtrusive on the truck. If you are talking about doing 3 inch or higher level kit you are angles will be greater it will ride worse and wear out parts quicker.

N

But with any lift kit their will be some cutting involved. Probably not what you wanna here, but it's reality.

I did all the work myself and couldn't believe what I was doing to my truck while I was doing it. But end result is I love the truck 100 times more since I lifted it and would do it over again.

Oh and I had level kit on this one prior to lifting it. If you have the bug to lift it might as well just do it because that feeling won't just go away

Posted

i have a 4.5" Zone and I went from about 36.5 front to 42.5 and 39 rear to 41.75

 

90477d92020d2a5a30ead2cbe1067be6.jpg

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So the rear didn't go that much higher. Can I ask what is your height all the way to the shark fin on the top of truck? I want to know if it will under 80 inches or not. Thanks.

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

So question to all the guys who have a 4inch suspension lift (BDS) with 33 inch tires. How tall is your overall truck now?

 

Does the whole truck lift up 4inches or just the front and the back by like 2 since the rack?

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

I have a 4" Procomp and truck fits into 81" garage opening. Ground to fender well heights 43-3/8" rear, 42-1/2" front, 305/55 20(33")

 

a5f7625afafe958b20e99a7a815f42ee.jpg

28ba4144d410101004a5df837a7f0719.jpg

d1dfbe23dcd7a72daf10463b148db5d2.jpg

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by CP4
  • Like 1
Posted

So the rear didn't go that much higher. Can I ask what is your height all the way to the shark fin on the top of truck? I want to know if it will under 80 inches or not. Thanks.

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

yes I'll check, and I only have a 3" block in the rear which is why the back didn't go up much. I wanted to get rid of any rake

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Ok here's a question I've searched for and can't find an answer.

 

I currently have a 2014 crew cab skyjacker 6" lift but want another 1.5-3" of lift. I've looked at body lifts that's the cheapest way to go but don't want to really.

 

Can I run UCA's and a 2" spring in the rear and do what I want wit my kit?

Posted

Ok here's a question I've searched for and can't find an answer.

 

I currently have a 2014 crew cab skyjacker 6" lift but want another 1.5-3" of lift. I've looked at body lifts that's the cheapest way to go but don't want to really.

 

Can I run UCA's and a 2" spring in the rear and do what I want wit my kit?

Sounds like someone needs a new lift kit. You'll need to look up the installation instructions for your current kit and see if anything had to be hacked up. If so you'll need to fund a new kit that does the same hack. CST makes a real nice 8" kit that can run 37's along with FTS, Coginito and a few others.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

I have a 2016 Silverado 1500 Z71 and I want to lift it, I'm looking at Rough Country's 3.5" kit (SKU:175.23) also looking at the Pro Comp 4" kit. (don't have exact model) its about double the price and the reviews on both are up and down on both sides. Any thoughts on which one is the better and why?

Edited by Z71DarkDragon16
Posted

I have a 2016 Silverado 1500 Z71 and I want to lift it, I'm looking at Rough Country's 3.5" kit (SKU:175.23) also looking at the Pro Comp 4" kit. (don't have exact model) its about double the price and the reviews on both are up and down on both sides. Any thoughts on which one is the better and why?

BDS 4"... Buy with confidence my friend.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

I have a 2016 Silverado 1500 Z71 and I want to lift it, I'm looking at Rough Country's 3.5" kit (SKU:175.23) also looking at the Pro Comp 4" kit. (don't have exact model) its about double the price and the reviews on both are up and down on both sides. Any thoughts on which one is the better and why?

neither.

BDS 4" or Zone 4.5"

 

The RCX is garbage and procomp is a glorified leveling kit

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I have a 2016 Silverado 1500 Z71 and I want to lift it, I'm looking at Rough Country's 3.5" kit (SKU:175.23) also looking at the Pro Comp 4" kit. (don't have exact model) its about double the price and the reviews on both are up and down on both sides. Any thoughts on which one is the better and why?[/size]

The rough country 3.5 lift is a stretched out leveling kit. The 4" pro comp is an actual suspension lift similar to bds and zone. The pro comp is about 3x as much as a the rough country 3.5 at 1600-1700 dollars depending who you buy it from.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...