Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
Daniel,

How do you get to that "average/ best" screen in the DIC?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's one of the pages in the info menu. If yours isn't there, try going to settings on the DIC to enable it.

right on Daniel! Just found it!! It's pretty cool that you can modify the info page

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

I get about 16-17mpg but I drive a lot of short trips mostly on gravel roads.

 

I should add that this has mostly been cold weather driving as well. When I got the truck it had 222 miles on it and the computer said it had averaged 23mpg. I hope that when it warms up again mileage will increase. Right now the computer says 18.x mpg over 1900 miles. When I calculate it manually though I get 16-17mpg.

Posted

I would recommend to do the math with the calculator and not to trust the DIC too much.

The DIC is a good reference and actually close enough but not soooo correct.

 

As for the V6 or V8...I drive a V8 just because I love the sound of the engine and the power even though I don't need it.

And because I'm German....lol.....we have only 4-bangers back there.....

 

:)

so long

j-ten-ner

Posted (edited)

I get about 25mpg on highway with light load, about 19-20mpg city , mine has 3800 miles so far...should improve a little more I hope.

 

 

V6 are popular in my area..Socal

Edited by arkenzo
Posted

I test drove the 5.3 and 4.3, couldn't notice much difference

 

I came from an '04 V6 that was really doggy.The dealer I ended up buying from had a V6 on their lot and is the bottom of a big big hill, so we test drove it up that and I was sold instantly. It had a lot more power than my previous truck and slightly better mileage. I've been real happy with it so far. Even did some light towing just to see how it did and it was fine.

Posted

When my truck was bone stock I was averaging 19 city and 23 hwy. Keep in mind I drive like an old lady, so that helps with MPG. I do have the V6 and I am happy with it. I guess the only thing I have to get used to, is the sound of Direct Injection at idle. Is it me or do these new engines idle louder than normal?

Posted

Thanks for useful replies. I actually like what I'm hearing here. Please keep it coming, I would be very pleased if the new v6 could be what I'm looking for

Posted

Driving in the rain yesterday at highway speeds plus some urban stop and go, my 5.3 Sierra crew cab with 3.42 and 18" wheels averaged 20.2 mpg. Not bad for only having 1400 miles on the engine.

 

It is econ happy at 65 to 71 mph. A sweet ride.

Posted (edited)

Looking through the thread I noticed the MPG wasn't as high as I would have thought (getting 22-23 highway out of my 6.2 CC) why are the v6 models so close to that? That blows me away. Is it maybe just needing some kind of remap? Don't get me wrong, in the city my mpg tanks to 14 a lot of the time because I have been enjoying those stop and go accelerations, but I figure the 6 would be getting 25+ no problem.

I'm guessing the fuel mileage for the three motor combinations is fairly close together for highway driving because all three engines go to four cylinders as much as possible, thus they are close to equivalency when running on four cylinders in terms of amount of power produced to keep the truck at speed. As we all know, engines are big air pumps, the air to fuel mixture is optimally around, what, 15:1 (somebody help me here with the correct ratio), and the power produced by exploding that mix per cylinder explosion would thus seem to be a constant amount. Racing engines turn up the RPMs, thus developing more power strokes resulting in more power per second. The V-6 has fewer cylinders and would be expected to have lower parasitic drag than the V-8s and I'd love to hear someone tell us how much this extra valve train and cylinder/crank frictional drag affects highway mileage.

 

A whole lot of words to say that the engines when on V4 are generating the same amount of power and thus shoving the same amount of air and fuel mix into the engine. The differences are likely the two fewer cylinders parasitic losses and that, it seems, may not a big energy loss factor at highway speeds. When sitting in city traffic, the V-6 has a big advantage versus the V-8s as those V-8s have to keep feeding two extra cylinders with a air/fuel mix.

 

I'd like to know more about the fuel/air mix going richer when under an increasing load, like going up a hill, and leaning out when going down the hill. With today's air flow mass sensor, direct injection and computerization technology, you've got to figure there is a lot of that kind of action taking place in our 2014 version engines.

 

Merry Christmas to all!

Edited by BillWho
Posted

Not too many people wanting to throw good money at a truck that will run like a slug and no one else will want when it comes time to sell it.

only half of that is really true. The new v6 is plenty fast enough. Heck, the old 4.3 in the right truck was fine. (my dad has a 2011 RC/SB 4.3 4x4 and it moves well) but you raise a good point about it being tough to sell because they are with the old school mentality of truck buyers that a v6 isn't "Enough"

Posted (edited)

I'm a little disappointed in mine so far. It's only at 646 miles, so I realize it should go up some, but as of now my average is 15.2 MPG with about 70% city driving.

I'm sure this is also partly due to being a winter fuel mixture, and my daily commute is about 3 miles round-trip.

 

Aside from my current fuel mileage, I have absolutely no complaints about getting the V6. I don't tow and only haul light loads, so the extra $$ for the V8 isn't worth it for me. I've driven several of the previous generation GM trucks with 4.3, 4.8, and 5.3 motors, and my butt dyno can't tell a difference between the 4.3 V6 in my 2014 regular cab short bod and the 5.3 V8 in my dad's 2002 extended cab.

Edited by tenx82
Posted

I'm a little disappointed in mine so far. It's only at 646 miles, so I realize it should go up some, but as of now my average is 15.2 MPG with about 70% city driving.

I'm sure this is also partly due to being a winter fuel mixture, and my daily commute is about 3 miles round-trip.

 

Aside from my current fuel mileage, I have absolutely no complaints about getting the V6. I don't tow and only haul light loads, so the extra $$ for the V8 isn't worth it for me. I've driven several of the previous generation GM trucks with 4.3, 4.8, and 5.3 motors, and my butt dyno can't tell a difference between the 4.3 V6 in my 2014 regular cab short bod and the 5.3 V8 in my dad's 2002 extended cab.

Seems to me you couldn't expect much better. The combination of only a 1.5 mile one-way commute, winter fuel, majority city....it seems you couldn't get much better no matter what you were driving. And I don't know if you're starting it up and letting it warm up every morning, but it seems that would also contribute to lower-than-expected mileage. I wouldn't be disappointed.

Posted

I'm guessing the fuel mileage for the three motor combinations is fairly close together for highway driving because all three engines go to four cylinders as much as possible, thus they are close to equivalency when running on four cylinders in terms of amount of power produced to keep the truck at speed. As we all know, engines are big air pumps, the air to fuel mixture is optimally around, what, 15:1 (somebody help me here with the correct ratio), and the power produced by exploding that mix per cylinder explosion would thus seem to be a constant amount. Racing engines turn up the RPMs, thus developing more power strokes resulting in more power per second. The V-6 has fewer cylinders and would be expected to have lower parasitic drag than the V-8s and I'd love to hear someone tell us how much this extra valve train and cylinder/crank frictional drag affects highway mileage.

 

A whole lot of words to say that the engines when on V4 are generating the same amount of power and thus shoving the same amount of air and fuel mix into the engine. The differences are likely the two fewer cylinders parasitic losses and that, it seems, may not a big energy loss factor at highway speeds. When sitting in city traffic, the V-6 has a big advantage versus the V-8s as those V-8s have to keep feeding two extra cylinders with a air/fuel mix.

 

I'd like to know more about the fuel/air mix going richer when under an increasing load, like going up a hill, and leaning out when going down the hill. With today's air flow mass sensor, direct injection and computerization technology, you've got to figure there is a lot of that kind of action taking place in our 2014 version engines.

 

Merry Christmas to all!

Merry Xmas Bill and everyone else too.

 

Someone really smart once told me that the way to gauge engine value is how much HP to fuel usage it makes. If the 4.3, 5.3 and the 6.2 all use 3 gallons a hour to produce 100hp you should get the same economy if all the engines push a equivalent truck. That's why I look for charts showing gals/ torque/hp. They aren't around or make such charts easy to find for some reason.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • It wouldn’t have happened if the government hadn’t mandated outrageous fuel mileage standards. It does very little for the consumer. It adds cost. Back during Covid there was a chip shortage. They gave a rebate for your truck if it didn’t have the chip to turn on cylinder deactivation. It was 50$ because at best you may see 1/2 a mile increase per gallon. Splitting hairs each fuel mileage trick wasn’t mandated. The government doesn’t do the engineering work and say use this until it’s already in use and they like it. The fuel mileage was mandated. And those add ons the results. There’s a mandate and they are the results.
    • It was never mandated.  Ever.    Automakers were incentivized to install it by getting CAFE credits to help with their vehicle fleet fuel economy scores.  They were being handed money/CAFE credits to install it.  Which is NOT a mandate.       The current admin removed the incentives that were behind them installing it.       
    • Are you playing Slide Down endlessly but your score is still low? Are you constantly crashing into obstacles as the game speed increases? Don't worry, this article will share 5 invaluable tips to help you master the race and impress your friends. Golden Rules 1. Look one step further. The mistake of 90% of new players is only staring at their character. The secret of experts is to look towards the top of the screen (where the slide is about to appear). This gives your brain an extra 0.5 - 1 second to process the situation and determine the direction of movement before the obstacle approaches. 2. Use gentle movements; don't swipe too hard. Slide Down is very sensitive. Moving your finger too forcefully or with excessive amplitude will cause your character to be thrown off course or crash into a wall. Practise moving your finger with small, decisive, and precise movements. 3. Don't be greedy for gold in dangerous locations. Gold coins are tempting for buying skins, but life is more important. If you see a gold coin right on the edge of a cliff or next to a spike trap, ignore it. Our goal is a High Score, and your score only increases if you survive. 4. Make the most of Power-ups. During the slide, you'll encounter items like Magnets (attract gold) or Shields (temporary invincibility). Never miss them! Especially the Shield, it's your "get out of jail free card" to help you get through those deadly fast sections. 5. Stay calm when speed peaks. When your score exceeds 500 or 1000, the game speed will be very fast. At this point, don't try to think logically; let your natural reflexes work. Take deep breaths and don't panic. Apply these 5 tips to your next game, and your leaderboard will surely improve dramatically. Good luck climbing the Slide Down leaderboard!
    • If you use compressed air regularly, one problem you cannot ignore is moisture. Water in the air line can cause rust, unstable air pressure, poor tool performance, and even damage to sensitive equipment. That is why I highly recommend using a desiccant air dryer. A desiccant air dryer is designed to remove moisture from compressed air by using drying materials such as activated alumina or molecular sieve. Compared with basic water separators, it can achieve much lower dew points, making it especially useful for applications that require dry and stable air. For workshops, painting systems, pneumatic tools, CNC machines, laser cutting equipment, and industrial production lines, a desiccant air dryer can make a big difference. It helps protect equipment, improve air quality, reduce maintenance costs, and extend the service life of the whole compressed air system. Another advantage is reliability. Many desiccant air dryers are built for continuous operation and can maintain stable drying performance even in demanding environments. For users who care about long-term efficiency and equipment protection, this is a smart investment. When choosing a desiccant air dryer, I suggest paying attention to air flow capacity, working pressure, dew point performance, regeneration method, and maintenance requirements. A good model should match your compressor system and actual air consumption. Overall, if moisture is causing problems in your compressed air system, a desiccant air dryer is definitely worth considering. It is practical, efficient, and highly useful for anyone who needs clean, dry, and reliable compressed air.
    • My brand new 2007 Silverado's wax frame was rust from end to end partway through it's SECOND winter here in MA. That stuff is completely useless.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...