Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I went from stock rims to a -12 offset little rub full lock. 305-65-18

Any updates?

post-163079-0-36155000-1478044361_thumb.jpgpost-163079-0-05962400-1478044374_thumb.jpgpost-163079-0-57867700-1478044385_thumb.jpg

post-163079-0-36155000-1478044361_thumb.jpg

post-163079-0-05962400-1478044374_thumb.jpg

post-163079-0-57867700-1478044385_thumb.jpg

post-163079-0-36155000-1478044361_thumb.jpg

post-163079-0-05962400-1478044374_thumb.jpg

post-163079-0-57867700-1478044385_thumb.jpg

post-163079-0-36155000-1478044361_thumb.jpg

post-163079-0-05962400-1478044374_thumb.jpg

post-163079-0-57867700-1478044385_thumb.jpg

Edited by Olmickeyt
  • Like 1
Posted

I went from stock rims to a -12 offset little rub full lock. 305-65-18

 

From +24 stockers to -12 is a big jump especially with a 2" level.

 

You're one of the few running 305/65r18, so any info on the stockers before you got new rims would help a lot of us. Any reason you went away from them?

Posted

From +24 stockers to -12 is a big jump especially with a 2" level.

 

You're one of the few running 305/65r18, so any info on the stockers before you got new rims would help a lot of us. Any reason you went away from them?

 

Just for looks pretty much. No issues with stock ones at all. No rubbing or anything. Ya the -12 was a big jump almost to much cause now I have rubbing on the little black plastic peice on rear of wheel well in the front. Maybe a 2 1/2" level will give me enough room to clear. It's only pulling into parking spots or backing out.

Posted

Every time I see your truck I think, "That's it". No matter what part I'm looking at. Was looking at the RC 2.5" level with wheels and tires and I think you have the set up I am looking for. Now I just need to photoshop them onto my truck.

 

Thank you! I get compliments on it all the time. My favorite part is it just looks "right." Its black but its not at the same time. I'm really happy the way it looks.

  • Like 1
Posted

I have a set of rancho quick lift level kit up for grabs. Brand new, never installed. PM me if you are interested! And by the way I love them on my truck.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm going to be putting the Rough country 2-1/2" level kit with Gear Alloy Big Block 20x10 with a -19 offset wheels and 285/55/20 tires. Just curious if anyone has a similar set up, I don't think it will rub

Posted

Ok so have finally got my rubbing issue fixed. After installing 295/55r20 Toyo open contry AT tires had rubbing on the a frame, So I installed 20 x9 XD Rockstar II with 18 offset. The tires now rubbing on Sway bar. So when back and replaced tires with 285/55r20 BFG AT K02's and all is well in the world. NO rubbing!... Satyed with just front lifted with ready lift 2.25" level kit, stock rear blocks.... Ground to fender edge in front 38 3/4" rears at 39 1/2 so only have a 3/4" rake... Here are some pics.....

 

Catman lets see some more pics of your rig. Can you get a few showing how the tires poke in the wheel well and some up close of your wheels, and also the angles of your ball joints and C/v axles as well as your sway bar. I like your rig a lot, my 16 has cast steel arms rough country said I should be able to run 295/55r20 no problem on +18 or 0 offset but I want to see how different those stamped steel arms look leveled compared to cast steel

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Hello. I am looking to put a leveling kit on my 2015 Silverado 1500 crew. I am still under all factory warranties and don't want to do anything that will for sure void them. I am getting Wrangler Duratrac 295/65/18. I am debating on doing the RC 2" level in just the front or doing the motofab 3' front 2" back. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I live in Colorado so off-roading will happen occasionally. Thanks in advance.

Posted

Hello. I am looking to put a leveling kit on my 2015 Silverado 1500 crew. I am still under all factory warranties and don't want to do anything that will for sure void them. I am getting Wrangler Duratrac 295/65/18. I am debating on doing the RC 2" level in just the front or doing the motofab 3' front 2" back. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I live in Colorado so off-roading will happen occasionally. Thanks in advance.

 

whichever way you go, post up pics of those 295s once you get them on your rig!

Posted

Hello. I am looking to put a leveling kit on my 2015 Silverado 1500 crew. I am still under all factory warranties and don't want to do anything that will for sure void them. I am getting Wrangler Duratrac 295/65/18. I am debating on doing the RC 2" level in just the front or doing the motofab 3' front 2" back. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I live in Colorado so off-roading will happen occasionally. Thanks in advance.

Obviously it's ultimately your call, but I would highly recommend against a 3" level. 2.5" is the max that most people agree is the most you should do. I play it safe with a 2". 3" will put terrible angles on your suspension and will wear things out prematurely, and will for sure not be covered under warranty. That's not even taking into consideration having almost no travel.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

I think at some point, we just let the ignorant weed themselves out. Can someone sticky an "I Told You So" Thread? It will be filled with How do I fix my 3" leveling kit and budget "Lift" kit questions.

  • Like 1
Posted

2" Suspension Max Level kit on my 2017 6.2 Denali attachicon.gif2017 Denali 5.jpg

This is a sick color combo. Very unique!

 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Posted

I think at some point, we just let the ignorant weed themselves out. Can someone sticky an "I Told You So" Thread? It will be filled with How do I fix my 3" leveling kit and budget "Lift" kit questions.

This comment is kinda ignorant in itself, no offense. There could definitely be a sticky on "lessons learned" but you don't just buy a truck one day and have the knowledge. For every post that explains why you shouldn't do a 3" level there's 10 posts with guys who do it "successfully".

 

Just sayin'

 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I will be doing that for sure, but I need to solve who has/ where I can find a bidirectional scan tool that will support OBD 1.5. I'm kicking myself because I ebay'ed a Snap On MT2500 that I didn't think I'd ever need anymore. D'oh!! I'd rather not buy another, so I'll contact a few local shops to see if they have one and how much they'd want to do the procedure. I'd rather have the ability to do it myself... I wish there was a modern tool that could do it all, but I'd have no idea what to buy.   The theory with the pulled timing is that it mimics a rich condition. The delayed spark causes incomplete burn and the O2 sensor picks up low oxygen levels. That's interpreted as a rich condition so the PCM pulls fuel and that shows up in the deeply negative fuel trims.
    • An ultra wealthy man had the most beautiful daughter. But, there was a problem. Everything she touched would melt in her hands. No matter what, Metal, Wood, Stone. Anything she touched would melt. She could not feed herself. Because of this, men were afraid of her. Nobody would dare marry her. Her father was despaired. What could he do to help his daughter? He consulted doctors, scientists and anybody who could solve this problem. Finally one of them said, "If your daughter touches one thing that does not melt in her hands, she will be cured." He was overjoyed and came up with a plan. The next day, he held a competition. Any man who could bring his daughter an object that would not melt in her hands would be given billions of dollars to marry her. Three extremely intelligent and handsome young men took up the challenge. The first brought a very heavy steel rod, But alas, when the she touched it, it completely melted in a matter of seconds. He sadly went away. The second brought a beautiful diamond, knowing diamonds were one of the hardest substance in the world and would not melt. But alas, once she held it in her hand, it melted. He too was sent away disappointed. So now, there was one left He was very nervous & sweating. He approached the daughter & said, “put your hand in my pants pocket and feel what is in there." She did exactly what he asked. She felt something very hard. She held it in her hand, squeezing it as hard as she could. It did not melt & remained extremely hard. Her father was overjoyed. Everybody was overjoyed. She was finally cured. Nothing never, ever melted in her hand again. They married and they both lived happily ever after, raising a wonderful family. Question: What was in the the groom’s pants pocket??? Answer below ↓ M&Ms of course! They melt in your mouth, not in your hand. What on earth were you thinking?
    • There's a bunch of tea leaves that you've read, but in any case the delayed timing is unusual. Not sure how that relates to the rich at idle vs. 'normal' while driving.   If you're in this deep, might be worth investigating, and re-learning the sensor. What have you got to lose? Plus, it properly fixes the timing cover leak.
    • The only problem I have seen this cause is longer crank times. 
    • Injector is being sent off today for rebuild and I estimate I'll have it back in 10 days or so.   It may not be the injector...of course...now that I've torn down the intake again. But, let's rule out the injector and replace those spider legs that have been almost rubbed through.   The truck has always had negative timing and I'm reading "normal" timing at warm idle should be +16 or so. I'm negative 16 to 25 or more, and it's always been like that since I bought it.   A light turned on upstairs last night in the old noggin. Rare, I know...   This will be wild, if it turns out to be the cause!   In 2001, according to the old service documentation, the muffler was replaced. Why? I have no idea, it wouldn't have been rusted through by then. But they did a crappy job.   In 2019, another shop replaced it and noted the prior install was poorly done on the work order. "Exhaust system vibrates on crossmember". Except...I guess they just left it be? I believe the husband, the couple who were original owners, had passed by then. Maybe she said it's just not worth it to have the exhaust system fixed and declined repairs. Very few miles were driven between 2019 and 2025.   The exhaust system vibrates heavily on the crossmember and you can feel it and REALLY hear it, even today. Not always, but at idle, it gets going pretty good sometimes.   What if....   ....What if that's enough to trigger one or both of the knock sensors? Could it be tricking the sensors into sensing knock, so it's pulling timing aggressively? Pulling timing heavily means it's firing after the piston reaches full height which means incomplete burn which means the O2 sensor is sensing a rich condition, which means I've been chasing my tail, and what I thought was an inconsequential problem (janky exhaust) has been THE issue for this truck for 25 solid years?   That would be wild. Maybe it IS wild.   The service documentation thereafter, for years, shows visits for rough idle, replacing O2's, replacing the cat, replacing plugs and wires, a misfire condition, like they could never solve the issue. The injector has been replaced 4 times in 80k miles, that's just crazy.   The secondary theory....   The engine has clearly had a leak at the front seal for a very long time (the greasy trench...). I think the truck changed hands quickly ~2025 because there's Napa receipts from someone I don't recognize in the ownership history. They apparently replaced the timing cover seal, and they did a terrible job. There's RTV smeared all over and the leak I had reduced to a weep by snugging the front oil pan bolts is now a leak again.   HOWEVER....I read about replacing the crankshaft position sensor. Any time the ckp sensor is disturbed or timing cover is removed, the truck requires relearning, and that can only be done through a bi-directional scan tool. Skippy with the RTV probably didn't do the relearn procedure is my guess. His scan tool is lost in a pile of RTV goo somewhere.   So, it's very possible the sensor has been disturbed and the truck is just running on the old learn data but not setting a code for anything. The distributor has since been replaced and so has the camshaft position sensor, so all bets are off for that thing.   In the theme of one step forward, two steps back, I returned the accumulator for the AC. The gal I've been working with at O'Really's has been great. She refunded it under manufacturer's defect and we compared it to the replacement I ordered, and sure enough, the replacement is machined very differently (and a gauge actually fits on it!).   Got it home, installed it, started vacuuming it down.... and I couldn't get good vacuum.   The high side service port, where I replaced the old GM ball valve suspecting that was a source of the previous leak....well, I've clearly exposed whatever pre-existing crack in the line where the service port is welded, and made it much worse. Blessing in disguise? Except there goes another $25, now I'm waiting for a replacement AC line.   In 10-ish days ALL the parts will be here. Rebuilt injector, new exhaust system, new cat, new high pressure AC line.   Oh, did I mention the squeaking ISN'T coming from the AC pump? The truck still squeaks when started, and there were words after I started it with the new AC pump installed. But, there was more to replacing the AC pump for just a squeak. A truck with good working AC is something of value, for the comfort alone.   I've ordered a new harmonic balancer because, 30 years is a good run for one of those. Rule it out. The squeak may be something more sinister, though. I'm worried about that ckp sensor and if it was shimmed correctly, or if the timing set was installed correctly. The squeak may be coming from UNDER the timing cover.   At this point, once I get it put back together, I'm thinking I'll take a 50 mile victory lap and then promptly put it up for sale. This truck is cursed. Betty, from beyond the grave, doesn't want anyone messing with her Blazer. Or maybe she's getting revenge for 30 years of shop visits with that thing.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...