Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2 or 2.5" RC front level, and I am running stock rims with 285/65 ko2's...I love them... they don't stick out past the fender (so if you want that look need to figure something else out)...but I think they look plent y beefy and work well for me at least.

 

(Black truck in my sig for a visual)

Posted

I have a 2 or 2.5" RC front level, and I am running stock rims with 285/65 ko2's...I love them... they don't stick out past the fender (so if you want that look need to figure something else out)...but I think they look plent y beefy and work well for me at least.

 

(Black truck in my sig for a visual)

Man, that's a pretty truck. Are you on the 20" wheels? I have 18s. I don't need tires yet, but I was leaning towards those.

 

What are you driveline angles like? Any ride issues?

Posted

Thank you! Stock 18". Personal preference but I like a little more rubber for the 4x4...plus they are cheaper for tires (and rims too if you decide to upgrade).

 

I don't know of the exact angle, but from this site and other resources, I gathered that a level kit doesn't put additional strain on your drive line... if you start getting 3"+ that is when you start changing the angle enough to at least consider what you are doing... plenty of people have a larger lift and can tell you their experiences...I just wanted to keep it pretty simple, just differnt enough that it isn't 'stock'...if I wouldn't have got the midnight edition I would have upgraded my rims... but I liked them enough to keep them and save me a couple grand...

Posted

Well a buddy and I installed my RC 2.5" lift yesterday however I was an idiot and forgot the u-bolts for putting on the 3" blocks, so currently only have the 2" installed. It'll be January at least before we get back together and do the blocks. Smdh

 

d42645f67db0b3976d722d1a635f1bb8.jpg

 

Now I just need to figure out what tires I want to put on my 20" stocks.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Thank you! Stock 18". Personal preference but I like a little more rubber for the 4x4...plus they are cheaper for tires (and rims too if you decide to upgrade).

 

I don't know of the exact angle, but from this site and other resources, I gathered that a level kit doesn't put additional strain on your drive line... if you start getting 3"+ that is when you start changing the angle enough to at least consider what you are doing... plenty of people have a larger lift and can tell you their experiences...I just wanted to keep it pretty simple, just differnt enough that it isn't 'stock'...if I wouldn't have got the midnight edition I would have upgraded my rims... but I liked them enough to keep them and save me a couple grand...

do you happen to know what upper control arms you have?

Posted

 

I will be interested to see what 4emeryj44 reports back with. I'm running 275/65 Nittos and at FULL LOCK, I can't get a finger between my inner sidewall and the UCA. The Swaybar probably has 3/4" or more before it touches the tire.

 

I don't think many people realize that inner sidewall rubs the UCAs as it probably doesn't cause much vibration or noise.

 

I will be interested to see what 4emeryj44 reports back with. I'm running 275/65 Nittos and at FULL LOCK, I can't get a finger between my inner sidewall and the UCA. The Swaybar probably has 3/4" or more before it touches the tire.

 

I don't think many people realize that inner sidewall rubs the UCAs as it probably doesn't cause much vibration or noise.

Posted

Thank you! Stock 18". Personal preference but I like a little more rubber for the 4x4...plus they are cheaper for tires (and rims too if you decide to upgrade).

 

I don't know of the exact angle, but from this site and other resources, I gathered that a level kit doesn't put additional strain on your drive line... if you start getting 3"+ that is when you start changing the angle enough to at least consider what you are doing... plenty of people have a larger lift and can tell you their experiences...I just wanted to keep it pretty simple, just differnt enough that it isn't 'stock'...if I wouldn't have got the midnight edition I would have upgraded my rims... but I liked them enough to keep them and save me a couple grand...

You're welcome. I agree on the size. IMO, the rim should only be big enough to make sure the sidewall isn't too big for on-road stability. Funny enough I parked next to a Midnight Z71 this afternoon. Sure do like those black wheels. Mine may get a similar treatment if the wife doesn't find out first. ;)

Posted

I just bought a 2017 Z71, has the 20" wheels and I would like to possibly install wheel spacers, fender flares, and bigger, wider tires on the stock wheels. Do I also need a leveling kit, and what's the biggest tire size I can run without rubbing?

Thanks in advance

Posted

I just bought a 2017 Z71, has the 20" wheels and I would like to possibly install wheel spacers, fender flares, and bigger, wider tires on the stock wheels. Do I also need a leveling kit, and what's the biggest tire size I can run without rubbing?

Thanks in advance

 

Dan,

 

Just be advised that there are GM warranty issues with the addition of lift kits.

  • Like 1
Posted

What is the difference in the Rough Country 2" leveling kit 1307 (cast lower control arms) and 1308 (aluminum lower control arms)?

I need to know the difference in the kits itself if anyone knows. Thank you and Merry Christmas

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Finally replaced my oem 1.25" blocks with 1.5" and without driving it yet it netted me a 3/4" lift. Will see what it settles to after a few miles on it. Did one side at a time and was not a difficult job at all. Took me about 1.5 hours without power tools. d297efe1b5153d6eabe5ab50e14516c6.jpgb491f7f31bec36008e9643d154d98406.jpgcc1665ddb9c55d35a07e6c289d99dbae.jpg1fa4839bed0462fb08abea1aae3ba843.jpg030e54e9b3392fd73753ab2554638032.jpg6aced05af1a710a61b803417a31e3499.jpg8237b37f12fd9597e430432c545cf48c.jpg9c4f2b0067d86fef682cb130f3c463e6.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

What is the difference in the Rough Country 2" leveling kit 1307 (cast lower control arms) and 1308 (aluminum lower control arms)?

I need to know the difference in the kits itself if anyone knows. Thank you and Merry Christmas

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

From what i have read, just longer bolts come with the aluminum kit. I bought that one before my truck came in and mine has steel arms. I didn't have an issue installing them.

Edited by CptMcSaug
  • Like 1
Posted

where you able to reuse the factory U bolts

Yup! Still using factory U bolts. Remember how they said it was a PITA to line up the block with leafspring. That was my fear but not a biggy; simply make sure the shocks are not getting caught with the differential hanger and raise the jack slowly then with my other hand I was a able to move the diff a bit to position and bammm they snapped in together. ca5a3c0de444403d4d6ac6dc2d181817.jpgd5280277e0cda4058f3ded1ed50fe1e7.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Maybe, but it seems he is the only one that has backed up data to prove what he is stating. I think he is doing this more because he enjoys it and wants to get the information out to us. He's got the knowledge and access to the proper equipment and having the funds doesn't hurt.  I would love to do what he is doing and would do it if and when I hit the Powerball.  I'm not a Tribologist by any means but love to learn what I can.   I would bet there would be doubting people out there if a completely independent lab with high quality work and highly respected in the automotive industry, put out information like this.  The world can't be pleased, one just has to take the information that they are given, do more of their own research to find actual lab data to back up what they are trying to figure/find out.  Most don't bother, they just want to believe what they first see.     I don't have the minimax but my 6.2 in my 2019 Silverado with 64k miles shows excellent UOA results with 0w-20 and for my own purposes 5w-20.  Since not much of a change using 5w. I liked the data sheet information on the SS 5w-20 and figured I would give it a try.  Still the same viscosity at 100℃.   In the end we all just do what makes us happy, life is too short to get upset over trivial social media.   On a side note, I do feel GM has dropped the ball and just cares about the bottom dollar and not quality anymore.  "Like a Rock" has been long gone.  Seems "Built Ford Tough" has as well.
    • Better than stock but that's like putting lipstick on a pig
    • Hello, my 3 month old Sierra Elevation wont recognize a trailer with electric brakes? All the lights work correctly, but no power to the brakes?   This is the factory installed brake controller. If you manually push the knob, the display shows the power % but does not light up like my 2022 silverado.   I have an appointment with the dealer, but was checking to see if anyone else has seen this issue.    Thanks, 
    • Been using SS 0w-20 from new, but wanted to change to the 5w-20 because I liked the data on the data sheet, to me it seems like a little better product. But as you can see, not much difference. This is also with running a mix of 10 gallons E85 to a tank topped with 93. It isn't a flex fuel vehicle so any higher I get a CEL for running lean on both banks. Yes my mileage takes a hit. Instead of 20 mpg I normally get on trips I get 17mpg. This is also using EaO17 filter.  What is amazing is I have the AMSOIL cone filter on it since I have the GM Performance intake installed and that air filter has 44k miles on it.  I just take it out and shop vac it off once a year.  I use the upholstery tool on my shop vac.  Works well.   
    • So, lot's of googling and reading, and a trial fit found, that indeed they hit the newer fatter caliper. I did some re-testing today, and found just 3/16" worth of washers was enough for the wheel to spin freely. I added 2 more on each, and again it spun freely. Tested lock to lock with the 4 washers, about 5/16" not quite the 3/8" Im considering, but pretty close. No issues. I've been looking at the BORA .375" spacers and using extended lugnuts to get back lost thread due to the spacer. All the ET lugs I've seen are all .33" reach inside the wheel lug holes. For those that don't like spacers or think they're unsafe, I think it depends on what type of spacers you're using and making sure you get good quality hubcentric ones, and if you're using bolt on ones, regular mainenance, checking the spacer lugs. Not wanting or needing that much spread. Looking for the minimum that will let me run these rims and tires.  it does look to stick out a little, but I really want put these on. and use the stock all-terrains in the winter. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...