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Posted

No rubbing whatsoever!!! Parked I did full lock to lock and I had an index finger between tire and wheel well liner. I was thinking about going with a 295 but I called rc and they said trimming would be required and also the place I took the truck to to install lift said they wouldn't recommend anything larger than a 285. I'm very happy with the end result and glad I didn't go with a 295. It's The perfect tire size for this truck

 

Thanks for quick response. What about clearance between the UCA and Swaybar at full lock-to-lock. Is there any rubbing on the inside face of the tire?

Posted

Thanks for quick response. What about clearance between the UCA and Swaybar at full lock-to-lock. Is there any rubbing on the inside face of the tire?

I honesty didn't look, but I couldn't see any rubbing anywhere when I was looking for wheel well rubbing. Tomorrow I'll take a look and double check for you

I honestly doubt that rough country would put out a tire size for a stock wheel configuration that would even come close to rubbing any major suspension components.

Posted

 

Thanks for quick response. What about clearance between the UCA and Swaybar at full lock-to-lock. Is there any rubbing on the inside face of the tire?

285 65 18 will clear everything on a 2.5" level with wheels with factory offset all the way up to -6 offset on aftermarket 18x9. -12 offset you will have minor rubbing on the felt but fixable with a zip tie.

Posted

285 65 18 will clear everything on a 2.5" level with wheels with factory offset all the way up to -6 offset on aftermarket 18x9. -12 offset you will have minor rubbing on the felt but fixable with a zip tie.

 

I will be interested to see what 4emeryj44 reports back with. I'm running 275/65 Nittos and at FULL LOCK, I can't get a finger between my inner sidewall and the UCA. The Swaybar probably has 3/4" or more before it touches the tire.

 

I don't think many people realize that inner sidewall rubs the UCAs as it probably doesn't cause much vibration or noise.

Posted

 

I will be interested to see what 4emeryj44 reports back with. I'm running 275/65 Nittos and at FULL LOCK, I can't get a finger between my inner sidewall and the UCA. The Swaybar probably has 3/4" or more before it touches the tire.

 

I don't think many people realize that inner sidewall rubs the UCAs as it probably doesn't cause much vibration or noise.

That's strange because my friend barely touches the UCA and hes running 305 50 20's on factory wheels which are like a +27. Sounds like the steering isn't centered unless it's real tight on both UCA's But if there is a huge gap on one side and not the other the steering is out of whack. Factory tires are 275 wide for a 20 there should be ample clearance between the UCA's

Posted

That's strange because my friend barely touches the UCA and hes running 305 50 20's on factory wheels which are like a +27. Sounds like the steering isn't centered unless it's real tight on both UCA's But if there is a huge gap on one side and not the other the steering is out of whack. Factory tires are 275 wide for a 20 there should be ample clearance between the UCA's

 

Both sides are even...my truck has had a complete new steering assembly put in it...and many alignments by the dealer (before and after the level). Tire wear is perfect and they rotate every oil change...I get 3 years free service at my local dealer. I've been lock to lock and held with a bungee to measure both sides many times as I've wanted to be sure before I get new tires. The clearance is very small at stock geometry...that's why I think 295s and 305s are rubbing more than people think on stocker 18s. I know 295/70r18s will rub both the UCA and swaybar on stockers unless you run at least a 1/2" spacer--there's several guys on here running them.

 

It's 18s that cause the problem with UCA clearance as 20s put the bulge of the tire a little bit more up and forward and away from the UCA. It's why you can usually run stock 20s with a knuckle lift, but not 18s....the extra height clears more. 18s require 1" more of spacer for knuckle lifts.

Posted

For all the guys out there with stock 18" wheels...275/70/18 fits great with a RC 2" leveling kit. I couldn't find much info for 18" wheel and tire combos, so there ya go. I am running 275/70/18 toyo open country at ll, with no rubbing, no trimming and its drives awesome.

Posted

 

Both sides are even...my truck has had a complete new steering assembly put in it...and many alignments by the dealer (before and after the level). Tire wear is perfect and they rotate every oil change...I get 3 years free service at my local dealer. I've been lock to lock and held with a bungee to measure both sides many times as I've wanted to be sure before I get new tires. The clearance is very small at stock geometry...that's why I think 295s and 305s are rubbing more than people think on stocker 18s. I know 295/70r18s will rub both the UCA and swaybar on stockers unless you run at least a 1/2" spacer--there's several guys on here running them.

 

It's 18s that cause the problem with UCA clearance as 20s put the bulge of the tire a little bit more up and forward and away from the UCA. It's why you can usually run stock 20s with a knuckle lift, but not 18s....the extra height clears more. 18s require 1" more of spacer for knuckle lifts.

That makes sense, i have never seen what the factory18's look like as far as clearance goes. My truck had the factory 20's and I swapped them out first for 18x9 -6 racelines then for the 18x9 -12 fuels that are on it now so UCA and swaybar clearances were never an issue clearance around the rear of the wheel well dictates tire size at that point. It would seem a 0 offset in an 18 is probably ideal for clearances around suspension parts and the wheel wells I just don't like the 20's unless the tires are 35" or bigger, both from a looks and functionality standpoint. Showing my age I guess I don't understand the point of running a 33 12.50 on a 22 x 12 inch wheel, looks dumb IMO, rides like garbage and zero functionality i guess I got to the point where I don't care if I'm cool anymore.

Posted (edited)

For all the guys out there with stock 18" wheels...275/70/18 fits great with a RC 2" leveling kit. I couldn't find much info for 18" wheel and tire combos, so there ya go. I am running 275/70/18 toyo open country at ll, with no rubbing, no trimming and its drives awesome.

I'm running the same size 275/70 BFG KO2 on a 2" level and stock wheels. No rubbing or trimming, even offroad its still perfectly fine.

Edited by tyrich88
Posted

For all the guys out there with stock 18" wheels...275/70/18 fits great with a RC 2" leveling kit. I couldn't find much info for 18" wheel and tire combos, so there ya go. I am running 275/70/18 toyo open country at ll, with no rubbing, no trimming and its drives awesome.

 

That size will fit without a level. The problem with that tire is how narrow they look, especially on a stock rim. Great side profile, but not so beefy coming and going. IMO, the 285/65r18 looks more 4x4ish even though it will be up to .5" shorter.

Posted

I am running 285/65R18 Toyo OC ATII on a RC 2.5" level and there is no rub at all. IMO it looks great

Posted

 

That size will fit without a level. The problem with that tire is how narrow they look, especially on a stock rim. Great side profile, but not so beefy coming and going. IMO, the 285/65r18 looks more 4x4ish even though it will be up to .5" shorter.

do you have pics

?

Posted

Hi everyone. Been lurking for a while and now I'm ready to pull the trigger on a level for my new-to-me 2015 LT Z71 DC. My measurements from the ground to fender lip across the center cap show that I have about 2.75" of rake. I don't mind there being some, but right now my nose is in the weeds. That and the tires kinda make me mad I paid for a z71. That z71 ain't what it used to be. Live and learn. I've had the truck about a month and I don't particularly mind how it rides, it's just too low in the front.

 

Ultimately, I'd like a 4" lift, but for now warranties and not causing damage to the truck are more important.

 

I've been bouncing between the RC 2.5" and the Bilstein 5100s. I know that the RC is a little extreme for a leveling kit, but I wonder if 1.85" will be enough level to look good. Also, do I need to worry about driveline angles with the Bilsteins? The price between the two isn't a factor in the decision. I'd also put the bilsteins in the rear if I did the fronts.

 

Can anyone give me some advice?

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