2014+ Leveling Kits

4emeryj44 · December 26, 2016

I will be interested to see what 4emeryj44 reports back with. I'm running 275/65 Nittos and at FULL LOCK, I can't get a finger between my inner sidewall and the UCA. The Swaybar probably has 3/4" or more before it touches the tire.

I don't think many people realize that inner sidewall rubs the UCAs as it probably doesn't cause much vibration or noise.

Not even close IMO

this is right tire/wheel at full left crank

This is left tire/wheel at full left crank

Edited December 26, 2016 by 4emeryj44

LTZ16 · December 26, 2016

Yup! Still using factory U bolts. Remember how they said it was a PITA to line up the block with leafspring. That was my fear but not a biggy; simply make sure the shocks are not getting caught with the differential hanger and raise the jack slowly then with my other hand I was a able to move the diff a bit to position and bammm they snapped in together.

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so I put in the 2" level from RC, going to drive a few days to see where it sits, May need to do the back a little, Did you adjust the head lights after your level kit

Sierra Jon · December 26, 2016

Yup! Still using factory U bolts. Remember how they said it was a PITA to line up the block with leafspring. That was my fear but not a biggy; simply make sure the shocks are not getting caught with the differential hanger and raise the jack slowly then with my other hand I was a able to move the diff a bit to position and bammm they snapped in together.

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Nice!

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spenpet · December 26, 2016

do you happen to know what upper control arms you have?

I have the black stamped steel ones... I still don't know what determines if you get the aluminum or steel...

spenpet · December 26, 2016

You're welcome. I agree on the size. IMO, the rim should only be big enough to make sure the sidewall isn't too big for on-road stability. Funny enough I parked next to a Midnight Z71 this afternoon. Sure do like those black wheels. Mine may get a similar treatment if the wife doesn't find out first. ;)

I liked them a lot more than I thought I would, thus keeping them... I'm not sure what color your truck is, but they also have some dark grey/leading color ones that are pretty slick too...sometimes you can get stock rims cheap from someone upgrading...

asalinasz39 · December 26, 2016

so I put in the 2" level from RC, going to drive a few days to see where it sits, May need to do the back a little, Did you adjust the head lights after your level kit

I did not adjust the headlights when i had just the front level spacer although it was necessary but now with the rear higher i should be fine. Good idea on allowing it to settle. Mine took a week; roughly 250 miles to settle and drop about 3/8" in the front which threw off my alignment by the way. So when i got the tires I re-aligned it and thats when i discovered it was way off.

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asalinasz39 · December 26, 2016

With the summit performance 1.5" blocks in the rear. My driveway has a downstream slope to the gate so i will take more pictures in a leveled ground.

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LTZ16 · December 26, 2016

With the summit performance 1.5" blocks in the rear. My driveway has a downstream slope to the gate so i will take more pictures in a leveled ground.

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Loving the way it looks,, Time for me to shop for tires

HOTdiggityDOG · December 26, 2016

so I put in the 2" level from RC, going to drive a few days to see where it sits, May need to do the back a little, Did you adjust the head lights after your level kit

Yes be sure to adjust the headlights, people are not fond of being "Blinded By The Light". A few guys have detailed instructions on how far to park in front of a flat wall and measure, especially on youtube. However, I simply pulled as close to a wall as possible and adjusted the top of the light-line and brought it down about 2 inches (all a guestimate, no lining or measuring). Worked perfectly fine without being to high or low. But to every his own.

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Brant78 · December 26, 2016

From what i have read, just longer bolts come with the aluminum kit. I bought that one before my truck came in and mine has steel arms. I didn't have an issue installing them.

My wife bought me the kit for Christmas but I have aluminum arms and she got the one for cast arms. I may just buy longer hardware from the hardware store.

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Waaazooo · December 26, 2016

My wife bought me the kit for Christmas but I have aluminum arms and she got the one for cast arms. I may just buy longer hardware from the hardware store.

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Just make sure it's matching grade of bolts and that the bolts go down.

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Brant78 · December 27, 2016

Just make sure it's matching grade of bolts and that the bolts go down.

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I just talked to rough country the only difference is the cast kit comes with 80mm bolts and the aluminum kit comes with 90mm bolts. Thank you!

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bcbz71 · December 27, 2016

Not even close IMO

this is right tire/wheel at full left crank

This is left tire/wheel at full left crank

Right wheel at full left crank and held by someone (or bungee the steering wheel to the seat) while you snap a picture from the top would be great. if you don't hold the steering wheel against the stop, the tire rotates back 1" or so.

In the picture of the left wheel taken from the top, you can tell it's not at full lock. It doesn't have that much space between the UCA front curve with factory rims/tires.

asalinasz39 · December 27, 2016

1/4 spacers all around to aliviate with the reverse turning rubbing. These tires are 12.3" wide according to factory specs. I would have not been able to run the 12.5" many do as some actually measure more than when looking into actual specs. The spacers seems to have done the trick. I took the pics with the wheel turned at full lock steering wheel then removed the ignition key and locked in place; did not retrieve the 1" it commonly does when you leave the key in run. Funny thing is that when I went to turn it on the key wouldn't turn. I had to remote start it so the steering wheel wheel would unlock and allowed me to turn they key forward.

Last pic is with spacers in. Dint notice a big difference of tire sticking out as its just 1/4" but i will be happy if i notice less rubbing on my stamped steel control arms

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Edited December 27, 2016 by asalinasz39

skully85 · December 27, 2016

Hey everyone, I got a 2017 GMC Sierra SLT 4x4 about two weeks ago. I want to level it, but I am being told to get either bilstein B8 5100s, a front level kit or a front level kit with rear blocks....I will be the first to admit, I do not know much about trucks, I let the pros handle that stuff. But can someone explain the difference in the three or make a suggestion on what to get or do?