Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Waaazooo Senior Enthusiast

Waaazooo

Posted
Posted

I think they will fit. Mine fit pretty easy with a couple zip ties on the fender liners. I have the 2.5 but I think they will fit with a 2 inch.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have the 2" RC level and my 275/65-20 fit with no rubbing on my +15 offset wheels. It's close clearance on the rear fender liner. But haven't drubbed yet with about 6k miles.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

Mr Green Enthusiast

Mr Green

Posted
Posted

I run 305/55/20 Terra Grapplers G2 on my truck with a two inch RC level kit. Very slight rub on full lock when turning in reverse.

 

Hi Everyone,

 

Posting for some clarification, I've been digging through this thread looking at all the great builds but want to get some answers from folks who have done this. I'm looking at doing the 2" RC level on a 15' AT with the stock 20" wheels. I had my tire guy order the Nitto Terra G2s in 275/65R20 but I'm now reconsidering that after reading into more posts. Some say that there is no rub while others say there is. I'm wondering if anyone has done this setup and could let me know what their results were. If I should go for a smaller but wider tire too that would be good to know. Very new to the world of truck upgrades but the dealer found a shred in the right front the other day so I guess it's time to do some upgrades.

 

Thanks Folks

alphagamma New Member

alphagamma

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the replies everyone. I want to go with the 2" to maintain some factory rake for when I tow a 3000 lb boat. So what I think I'm going to end up doing is going with the smaller tire. I believe folks have been using the 275/60 for the most part so I'm either going to end up doing that or the 305/55 for some extra width. Thanks for the help everyone I'll be sure to post when it's all done.

woychc Enthusiast

woychc

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the replies everyone. I want to go with the 2" to maintain some factory rake for when I tow a 3000 lb boat. So what I think I'm going to end up doing is going with the smaller tire. I believe folks have been using the 275/60 for the most part so I'm either going to end up doing that or the 305/55 for some extra width. Thanks for the help everyone I'll be sure to post when it's all done.

I'd go with the 275/60 duratracs, they look a lot bigger than other 275/60s. All you'd have to do was maybe ziptie back the liner

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Parker93 Enthusiast

Parker93

Posted
Posted

Just installed a moto fab 2.5in leveling kit. Extremely happy with the results but the front end is a little higher then the rear so I will be replacing the read blocks next. Any suggestions on what size blocks to get?

Korazu Enthusiast

Korazu

Posted
Posted

Just installed a moto fab 2.5in leveling kit. Extremely happy with the results but the front end is a little higher then the rear so I will be replacing the read blocks next. Any suggestions on what size blocks to get?

Depends on how much height/rake you want. I went with the RC 2.5" level kit which had 2" blocks and it was to level for me, so I opted to put in 3" blocks and love the way it looks now. I still have yet to put in my Hellwig 987's in to help for the towing a trailer.

 

With 2" blocks:

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153363-2014-leveling-kits/page-312?do=findComment&comment=1910014

 

With 3" blocks:

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=68325

  • Like 1
Parker93 Enthusiast

Parker93

Posted
Posted

Depends on how much height/rake you want. I went with the RC 2.5" level kit which had 2" blocks and it was to level for me, so I opted to put in 3" blocks and love the way it looks now. I still have yet to put in my Hellwig 987's in to help for the towing a trailer.

 

With 2" blocks:

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153363-2014-leveling-kits/page-312?do=findComment&comment=1910014

 

With 3" blocks:

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=68325

 

 

 

 

Did you have to put the shock extenders in with the2" and 3" blocks?

Korazu Enthusiast

Korazu

Posted
Posted

Did you have to put the shock extenders in with the2" and 3" blocks?

Nope, just had to unbolt the bottom of the shocks to install for the 3" blocks, as there was not enough gap to slide them in. Took about 25 minutes to install both.

  • Like 1
Parker93 Enthusiast

Parker93

Posted
Posted

Nope, just had to unbolt the bottom of the shocks to install for the 3" blocks, as there was not enough gap to slide them in. Took about 25 minutes to install both.

 

Ok awesome thank you.

mracer Enthusiast

mracer

Posted
Posted

Didn't attach a picture to my last post...

What size tires?

Sierra Jon Enthusiast

Sierra Jon

Posted
Posted

Depends on how much height/rake you want. I went with the RC 2.5" level kit which had 2" blocks and it was to level for me, so I opted to put in 3" blocks and love the way it looks now. I still have yet to put in my Hellwig 987's in to help for the towing a trailer.

 

With 2" blocks:

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153363-2014-leveling-kits/page-312?do=findComment&comment=1910014

 

With 3" blocks:

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=68325

I did 2" blocks and Hellwig 987's. Very happy with the results. There's a pic a few pages back.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

bcbz71 Enthusiast

bcbz71

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just installed a moto fab 2.5in leveling kit. Extremely happy with the results but the front end is a little higher then the rear so I will be replacing the read blocks next. Any suggestions on what size blocks to get?

 

I used the rear blocks that came with my 2.5 RCX kit (2" blocks, I believe). They were about 1/2" taller than the stock blocks if I recall correctly.

 

For towing, you can't beat the Firestone RideRite air bags. Run them at 5psi for everyday driving, then pump them up to 100psi for max load. I find with about 35psi in the bags, I can tow my 5000# tractor with a level stance. Eliminates the azz sag and gives more steering control.

 

I did not install the onboard compressor but I have an air compressor in my garage, so it's easy to air up.

 

Try them and change your life!

Edited by bcbz71
Parker93 Enthusiast

Parker93

Posted
Posted

 

I used the rear blocks that came with my 2.5 RCX kit (2" blocks, I believe). They were about 1/2" taller than the stock blocks if I recall correctly.

 

For towing, you can't beat the Firestone RideRite air bags. Run them at 5psi for everyday driving, then pump them up to 100psi for max load. I find with about 35psi in the bags, I can tow my 5000# tractor with a level stance. Eliminates the azz sag and gives more steering control.

 

I did not install the onboard compressor but I have an air compressor in my garage, so it's easy to air up.

 

Try them and change your life!

 

Awesome I will look into them thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 616 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • BDS my HD
      Brand new to this forum. Questions about re-gearing my 26’ HD

      By BDS my HD · Posted

      Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • linc45bn
      2013 2500HD 6.0L intermittent no crank no start

      By linc45bn · Posted

      I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Oil Consumption

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Peoplemvr
      GMC 1500 Illuminated Front Grill Emblem REPLACEMENT.

      By Peoplemvr · Posted

      Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...