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2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

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Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted

Truck looks great, did you have to any trimming or do you have any rubbing going on with the new setup. Looking at doing a similar setup on my truck.

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

I have the very slightest rub in reverse at full lock. It touches the bottom fender corner trim piece oh so slightly. I'm

Not even going to bother with it.

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Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

mnm99 Enthusiast

mnm99

Posted
Posted

Theoretically you could, but you're going to bottom out your shocks a lot quicker since they're not extended travel shocks.

 

Upgrade to an extended/lifted version of the 5100 and you should be fine w/ aftermarket UCAs.

Your CV shafts won't like it. Everyone always talks about shocks and ball joints. The CV shafts are supposed to be level. Witham 2.5 or 3 inch take a look how off they are. Now turn your wheel and hit a big bump, they are at really bad angles.

obfirefighter22 Enthusiast

obfirefighter22

Posted
Posted (edited)

Man this thread has got a lot longer.

 

Question, I did the RC level on my 2015 that came with the blocks for the back and spacers that went above the coil over and spacer below strut. To me thinking about the geometry of everything it was perfect.

 

Fast forward to now, fixing to help a buddy do his ram. His assembly looks identical. Now rough country makes you compress the coil over and add the spacer there which seems a$$ backwards. Went to look at mine and also pull it up on their website. On the website they don't offer the same kit now. Is there a reason they changed it up? I'm sure y'all have spoken about it but there's 340+ pages in this thread now.

Edited by advancedrescue
Silveradoh Enthusiast

Silveradoh

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I was shopping around for a 2.5" leveling kit from RC for my 2017 Silverado 1500 and haven't come across anything but 2". Do they usually release them later than the 2" versions? Or do people have any recommendations in the same price range for a 2.5" leveling kit. I would like to get that little bit of extra clearance from the 2.5" if I can.

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

pbudde18 Enthusiast

pbudde18

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I was shopping around for a 2.5" leveling kit from RC for my 2017 Silverado 1500 and haven't come across anything but 2". Do they usually release them later than the 2" versions? Or do people have any recommendations in the same price range for a 2.5" leveling kit. I would like to get that little bit of extra clearance from the 2.5" if I can.

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

I just happened to see this and already have the page open. http://www.roughcountry.com/gm-leveling-lift-kit-1305-10.html

pbudde18 Enthusiast

pbudde18

Posted
Posted

Thank you! Don't know how I missed it, kept coming across the 2" kit.

Probably because they listed it under the suspension lift section instead of the level lift section.

  • Like 1
pbudde18 Enthusiast

pbudde18

Posted
Posted

I'm going to be putting on a set of 20x9 +1 with 305/55 's. For the level, I see everyone suggests sticking with a 2" as 2.5" causes some extreme angles. Is there any real difference between the Round spacers that go on top and the U shapped ones that go on bottom besides location and shape?

Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted

I'm going to be putting on a set of 20x9 +1 with 305/55 's. For the level, I see everyone suggests sticking with a 2" as 2.5" causes some extreme angles. Is there any real difference between the Round spacers that go on top and the U shapped ones that go on bottom besides location and shape?

2" level is that bottom "U" shape only. To get 2.5 they add a 1/2" spacer on top of the coil spring. Requires disassembly of the strut. My setup is in my sig, the extra 1/2" wasn't worth the hassle for me. My truck has almost exactly 1" of rake

Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted

to the guys whom have installed the 2.5" themselves, do you think its possible to just compress the spring while its on the truck and install the upper spacer? or does the entire strut have to be disassembled right down?

bcbz71 Enthusiast

bcbz71

Posted
Posted (edited)

2" level is that bottom "U" shape only. To get 2.5 they add a 1/2" spacer on top of the coil spring. Requires disassembly of the strut. My setup is in my sig, the extra 1/2" wasn't worth the hassle for me. My truck has almost exactly 1" of rake

 

I put out some bad information earlier and I don't want to confuse anybody. Apparently, the 2016+ top spacer goes in differently than my 2014.

Edited by bcbz71
Chevy181 Enthusiast

Chevy181

Posted
Posted

I just installed the 2.5" RC on my 2017 Z71 and even though the pictures showed a spacer for the top, it is actually a ring that goes in the strut. It has to be disassembled to be put in. FYI, I didn't need to add the rear blocks for the leveled look. If you want to buy the parts without the blocks, you can save a few bucks.ffd332db4f4bfad41d4a3d3660d81a57.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G930R7 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted (edited)

On the 16+ trucks it doesn't go on top anymore. Two seperate part numbers now, and I've even called rough country to verify that. Stamped arms (16+) now get the spacer on top of coilspring, not on top of the strut top mount.

 

 

1/2" spacer does not go on top of the coil spring, it goes on top of the strut assembly.

 

Top spacer does not require disassembly of the strut assembly. Requires taking off 3 nuts on top of the strut housing and strut comes out as a complete assembly, then you put the spacer on top and put the nuts back on. Maybe 15 minutes....could be 30 if you are slow with an open end wrench.

Edited by Criscone
Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted

My 2" front level is finally settled, and my rear is 3/4" higher than the front. Perfect! However I did just buy a 1.5" zone body lift for a little extra.

BSME1115 Enthusiast

BSME1115

Posted
Posted (edited)

My 2" front level is finally settled, and my rear is 3/4" higher than the front. Perfect! However I did just buy a 1.5" zone body lift for a little extra.

Installed mine yesterday. Also 3/4" difference. Looks much better! Edited by BSME1115

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