Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 4/1/2018 at 4:34 PM, Paintball Dad said:

Hey guys. New here to the forums. This may have been discussed... I have looked through some pages and honestly cant get past looking at the pictures of all the awesome trucks builds! I have a 2014 Sierra 1500 4WD Crew Cab. I want to level the truck by lowering the rear. I don't haul anything heavy or tow. However, I have to remember Mom & Dad need to get in sometimes. :lol: I was told removing the stock blocks under the leaf springs would level it with the front. Is this true? Or, is the better option to buy the lowering shackles? Thanks in advance!

Level up the front and get steps/running boards! :)   personally I would never lower a 4wd...but thats just me...welcome to the forum, good luck with your truck!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Installing a 2" RC leveling kit this weekend on my 2016 Silverado 1500.  Does anyone know if 285/55R20 BFG KO2 on stock wheels will fit with little to no rub?

 

Or maybe the better question, what is the largest size BFG K02 I could run on stock 20" wheels with a 2" RC leveling kit? I'd prefer to stay away from large wheel spacers if possible.

Edited by BayouBound
Posted
Installing a 2" RC leveling kit this weekend on my 2016 Silverado 1500.  Does anyone know if 285/55R20 BFG KO2 on stock wheels will fit with little to no rub?
 
Or maybe the better question, what is the largest size BFG K02 I could run on stock 20" wheels with a 2" RC leveling kit? I'd prefer to stay away from large wheel spacers if possible.



Should be pretty safe with 285/55/20, you could maybe go up to 295/55, but you’d probably have to do some minor trimming to get to zero rub.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
Installing a 2" RC leveling kit this weekend on my 2016 Silverado 1500.  Does anyone know if 285/55R20 BFG KO2 on stock wheels will fit with little to no rub?
 
Or maybe the better question, what is the largest size BFG K02 I could run on stock 20" wheels with a 2" RC leveling kit? I'd prefer to stay away from large wheel spacers if possible.


285/55 should be fine, I wouldn’t go anything above that though. I’m on +18 wheels and 285/55r20s with a 2.5 level and I can tell you too much bigger and I would rub. I still want to do some testing because I feel like I feel rubbing at full crank but it could just be the knobbier new tires I have now causing that sensation.

I can tell you a lottt of guys will tell you no rubbing or little rubbing on the more aggressive set ups aren’t telling the full truth. If I went with a more negative offset on these it would rub for sure, and they aren’t too much bigger than stock. They definitely look great though, I can’t tell any difference really looking at these and 33x12.50 on friends trucks. Same height just a tad narrower.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
21 hours ago, BayouBound said:

Installing a 2" RC leveling kit this weekend on my 2016 Silverado 1500.  Does anyone know if 285/55R20 BFG KO2 on stock wheels will fit with little to no rub?

 

Or maybe the better question, what is the largest size BFG K02 I could run on stock 20" wheels with a 2" RC leveling kit? I'd prefer to stay away from large wheel spacers if possible.

https://tiresize.com/calculator/

 

the 285/55/20 is actually slightly shorter than the 285/65/18...both will fit without any rubbing with a 2'"level up.  as far as the largest...you are getting pretty close to that (without some little mods)...

 

i believe they make a 275/60R20 now....and i would think that would be the ideal and perfect fit...BUT that would probably take a little trimming of the carpet wheel liner, but that isn't a big deal... others might have a better answer for you...

Posted
On 4/1/2018 at 4:34 PM, Paintball Dad said:

Hey guys. New here to the forums. This may have been discussed... I have looked through some pages and honestly cant get past looking at the pictures of all the awesome trucks builds! I have a 2014 Sierra 1500 4WD Crew Cab. I want to level the truck by lowering the rear. I don't haul anything heavy or tow. However, I have to remember Mom & Dad need to get in sometimes. :lol: I was told removing the stock blocks under the leaf springs would level it with the front. Is this true? Or, is the better option to buy the lowering shackles? Thanks in advance!

I'm not a fan of lowering trucks.....but the rear block is 1.25". So, removing that will lower the rear 1.25". Most trucks have 2"-2.5" of rake, so you probably won't end up exactly level...but you'll have less rake than you do now. I'd say try that first, and see how you like it. You could always add a small leveling kit to the front in the future if you wanted. That being said, trucks that are "exactly level" have always looked nose-high to me for some reason.

On 4/3/2018 at 9:21 AM, BayouBound said:

Installing a 2" RC leveling kit this weekend on my 2016 Silverado 1500.  Does anyone know if 285/55R20 BFG KO2 on stock wheels will fit with little to no rub?

 

Or maybe the better question, what is the largest size BFG K02 I could run on stock 20" wheels with a 2" RC leveling kit? I'd prefer to stay away from large wheel spacers if possible.

285/55/20 should fit without any trouble at all. In fact, they'll probably fit without any lift at all. If you're wanting to run BFG AT's, then I'd recommend the 275/60/20 because of the extra height. They should fit fine with a 2" level. 

Posted

So I have the 2.5" kit coming tomorrow. The step that uses the 21mm wrench...can I use a 21mm socket? I have the socket but not the wrench. I have all the other tools. I can buy a wrench if needed, just would rather use what i have.

Posted

for removal with a deep socket yes... for reinstall if the ball join spin you wont be abble to hold it from the bottom with a 10mm wrench

Posted
On 4/4/2018 at 9:46 PM, math_10silverado said:

for removal with a deep socket yes... for reinstall if the ball join spin you wont be abble to hold it from the bottom with a 10mm wrench

Put the level on last night. It's the steering linkage that uses a 10mm wrench (if it spins while reinstalling). The ball joint is a 7/32 allen for those doing this in the future.

 

On a side note, it was late so I didn't put the rear block in. Like a dummy I didn't have all my tires inflated to the same PSI so my initial measurements were off. Now the front is higher than the rear. Tires are all the same now, and as soon as I add the rear block I'll post up pics and measurements. Thanks for all the help so far guys.

Posted
On 3/11/2018 at 6:20 PM, JSB81 said:

I have a 2018 Seirra Denali 1500 with a 6.2 and added a RC 2.5” leveling kit. With leveling kit in and when 4 wheel drive engaged it have a pretty good vibration when engine is under a load. Anyone else have this? Take leveling kit out and it goes away. 

Finally got all my issues fixed. 90% of my problem was in front driveline. Brought it to a drive line place and there was a curve in it. So much so they wouldn’t balance it. (GM) says it’s within range of normal ?. Had them build me a new driveline. The other 10% were in the tires. I had 295 55 toyo. Went to a 285 55 hankook and all my problems went away! Was thankful the dealer picked up entire bill except tire exchange. Just thought I would throw it out there if anyone else comes across this. My dealer found another truck on their lot with same drive line issue after I told them about mine. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 4/8/2018 at 9:20 AM, MHardiman90 said:

Finally received my BORA 1.25" spacers. Glad to report no more rub while on a 2.5" motofab level with 33x12.50's on stock AT wheels!IMG_20180407_104530.thumb.jpg.6eb1d241e09b4bd3e72ce2b59efa2438.jpg

That looks great.   I've heard you can run 1" spacers without trimming the studs if you have the pockets in back of your wheels.  

 

They are 20" rims on your truck, right?

Posted (edited)
24 minutes ago, bcbz71 said:

That looks great.   I've heard you can run 1" spacers without trimming the studs if you have the pockets in back of your wheels.  

 

They are 20" rims on your truck, right?

Thanks brother! Yes, the stock 20" All Terrain wheels. I would definitely trim the studs some on a 1" spacer. I did not trim any on mine as I do have the "pockets" in the back of the wheels which I did not know about until I unpacked my cut off wheel. Surprise to me! I did a quick measurement with my pinky finger and had a little left inside the pocket. Very pleased with the poke and stance of the truck after the BORA spacer. HIGHLY recommend these to anybody in the market. I'll get a picture of the poke when it's not snowing here... Thursday is suppose to be 75° here in wonderful Chicagoland. 

IMG_20180407_104546.jpg

IMG_20180407_104556.jpg

Edited by MHardiman90
Posted (edited)

I have a 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 Z71 4x4 Crew Cab all stock with 265/65 -18 inch Wheels/rims. I was wanting to raise or level out the truck, but still want a slight rake for payload. I don't want the front higher if i put anything in my bed. I have read many forums comparing the 2 inch RC in the front vs the 2.5 inch level RC changing the front and rear. The only discussions i have seen involve non z71 trucks.  For those who have a z71 truck which one do you prefer?

 

My plan was just to do the basic RC 2 inch level in the front and go with 285/65-18 tires, but would hate for the nose to be too high. Should I stick with my plan or go to the 2.5" or find a 1.5" level in the front. Thank you

Edited by WT432

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You have to have the last word. 
    • I am sure that was quite the pass experience and not a great place to experience during the winter when the conditions are not good. I've seen video of that pass and also more detailed information and pictures about the wrecks at that one hair pin turn where tractor trailers have flown right off the cliff and I am sure from all the warning signs that you know the exact curve that was !. After all there is a reason why a song was made about Wolf Creek Pass !. By the way and I didn't realize this either when I bought my truck as its nothing I even thought of that would be programmed into the cruise control and this occurs in either the basic or the more advanced cruise that controls your distance behind a vehicle and that is the brakes going down a hill are being applied as soon as the vehicle goes a certain speed over the set cruise speed. While it certainly does force downshifts in the transmission as you found out with cruise on while going down hill, its also dragging the brakes as needed to keep the speed controlled to what the cruise was set to. For me, I find that unsettling simply because I have no concept then as to how MUCH brake input is being used a and just how hot are those brakes getting and the wear factor as well. I can see that system getting a person into trouble on long mountain grades while pulling a trailer as it would not only be standing on the brakes of the pickup without any driver input, it would also be automatically applying the trailer brakes and it could cause a run away unit by overheating the brakes. Its one thing on a shorter hill and if the driver allows it to do its thing but on a long mountain grade is where things could get so out of hand. As someone a while back on this forum said, they had someone following them at night I believe on a down grade and had the cruise set and the person behind them could see the brake lights being energized all the way down the hill. I figured when I saw your comment that you didn't know and would have no way of knowing that your truck was applying the brakes and that you would and rightfully so assume you only used the brakes when you pressed on the pedal to slow down more than the cruise set speed for the slower sharp curves. So its good knowledge to know this about the newer GM trucks, certainly when doing any descending on long mountain grades. In the future try kicking off the cruise and use the the manual mode on a pass to see what that is like as I know myself when I first experienced it I thought no way can this engine be holding me back this well and tried the same hill in manual mode and sure enough the engine was revving way up and still could not hold the trucks speed down like it could in cruise mode.    Fuel mileage, that is where a really low sleek type of car can do better at higher speeds, certainly it starts sucking fuel too but a tall pickup is pushing massive amounts of air and also allowing a lot more air under it and the tow mirrors as in elephant ears pushing through the wind  as well. Driving like grandpa is about as good as one can do when driving one of these if trying to get the best fuel economy they can. I bet these trucks would get the best mileage they can if driven on a freeway in Florida if not busy traffic at a sedate speed and that sea level elevation without hills, vastly different then Colorado !. 
    • It’s over for almost 24 hours. Are you playing Eddie Haskell? 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...