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2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

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harrisonhunter Enthusiast

harrisonhunter

Posted
Posted

I like my 275 60 20 duratrac.

With the extra detail on the sidewall they appear to be wider.

 

1.75 level in the front

 

 

I have 20’s, so I won’t be getting an 18” sized tire. Any one have input on 275/60/20 and the ‘look’ factor of them? Not a huge change from stock but enough from a side

Profile that I think it fills the wheel wells better than a 55 sized tire.

 

 

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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

 

 

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Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

spenpet Enthusiast

spenpet

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, Aaron1085 said:

 

 


I have 20’s, so I won’t be getting an 18” sized tire. Any one have input on 275/60/20 and the ‘look’ factor of them? Not a huge change from stock but enough from a side
Profile that I think it fills the wheel wells better than a 55 sized tire.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

So I think you missed the point of my post.  you are asking if a specific size tire would look too small for your truck.  i gave you a tool to be able to compare tire sizes.  (you're welcome).  also, I wasn't trying to convince you in any way to get an 18" rim, what I was trying to do is give you an EXTREMELY common size tire to look at for comparison. (you're welcome).  outside from the information I share with you (also saying that the size tire you asked about would be fine) and others on this thread...your best bet is to go find trucks that have the size tire you want and look at them in person...

 

sorry if my message was confusing...just trying to help...

jgraves13 Enthusiast

jgraves13

Posted
Posted



I have 20’s, so I won’t be getting an 18” sized tire. Any one have input on 275/60/20 and the ‘look’ factor of them? Not a huge change from stock but enough from a side
Profile that I think it fills the wheel wells better than a 55 sized tire.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Go to customwheeloffset.com and look at their gallery. You'll find trucks with everything you're looking for


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Ron505 Enthusiast

Ron505

Posted
Posted
On 5/8/2018 at 3:43 PM, 03msc said:

 A buddy of mine said a 2.5" Motofab had his sitting perfectly level (by looks and measurement) but then I see Ron505's post of his 2" BDS and it almost looks like the front is slightly higher. lol 

 

 

Mine definitely isn't nose high.  It may be an optical illusion or something with my driveway.  It still has a very small amount of rake.  That's why I'll be adding rear leafs to get it closer to stock rake.  Plus I'll be adding my cap back on that seems to weigh around 300lbs.

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sulvn55 New Member

sulvn55

Posted
Posted (edited)

Have been meaning to post this for a while. Here is my 2017 with 22” Yukon wheels and 285/55/22 Nitto Terra Grappler. I did the 2.25” Readylift kit in the front and nothing in the back. I have some rubbing at full lock but otherwise I love the look and ratio of the combo. I run about 5k miles a month and have 40k on the Nittos. Think there’s another 15/20k in them  

ZrNbuFg.jpg

thRFjXz.jpg

139kgpZ.jpg

bAVJWXf.jpg

 

Edited by sulvn55
Images weren't showing
  • Like 5
03msc Enthusiast

03msc

Posted
Posted
On 5/12/2018 at 10:17 AM, sulvn55 said:

Have been meaning to post this for a while. Here is my 2017 with 22” Yukon wheels and 285/55/22 Nitto Terra Grappler. I did the 2.25” Readylift kit in the front and nothing in the back. I have some rubbing at full lock but otherwise I love the look and ratio of the combo. I run about 5k miles a month and have 40k on the Nittos. Think there’s another 15/20k in them  2B79F8DE-3FEE-46C3-B7D5-7CB373265456.thumb.jpeg.55bd0e44164cd64295ad4cfe6e86b7c4.jpeg

DA601627-22A5-4320-A3DD-F2F959B67FAC.jpeg

Not sure if it's just on my machine or what but your photos aren't showing up, unfortunately...

 

BlackjackSierra Enthusiast

BlackjackSierra

Posted
Posted (edited)

Found the cheapest set of circular aluminum billet blocks on eBay. Like 50 bucks. 2.25 leveling in the front. 

 

If all you’re looking to do is get your front end *level, a billet aluminum block, is a billet aluminum block, is billet aluminum block no matter what kool name is stamped on it. 

 

Did not install rear blocks. 

C4A40C5B-0380-4D5E-9EC0-C2CEAEB66BBF.jpeg

Edited by BlackjackSierra
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TRG Enthusiast

TRG

Posted
Posted
On 5/12/2018 at 11:17 AM, sulvn55 said:

Have been meaning to post this for a while. Here is my 2017 with 22” Yukon wheels and 285/55/22 Nitto Terra Grappler. I did the 2.25” Readylift kit in the front and nothing in the back. I have some rubbing at full lock but otherwise I love the look and ratio of the combo. I run about 5k miles a month and have 40k on the Nittos. Think there’s another 15/20k in them  2B79F8DE-3FEE-46C3-B7D5-7CB373265456.thumb.jpeg.55bd0e44164cd64295ad4cfe6e86b7c4.jpeg

DA601627-22A5-4320-A3DD-F2F959B67FAC.jpeg

Can you re-post the pic?  I've got a 2.25" RL(nothing in the back) and 22" stock wheels and would like to see how that size tire looks. 

sulvn55 New Member

sulvn55

Posted
Posted
59 minutes ago, TRG said:

Can you re-post the pic?  I've got a 2.25" RL(nothing in the back) and 22" stock wheels and would like to see how that size tire looks. 

Should work now, used the wrong URL.

 

It is a great setup! I think it is the best option for proportions with these trucks on 22's Personally I love these tires also, great wear, minimal road noise (for an A/T Tire).

 

All in all with the worst part is the fuel mileage. I get a constant 15mpg average driving mostly interstates and 5k miles/month wit work. 

SNAFU88 Enthusiast

SNAFU88

Posted
Posted
On 5/11/2018 at 11:45 AM, Ron505 said:

Mine definitely isn't nose high.  It may be an optical illusion or something with my driveway.  It still has a very small amount of rake.  That's why I'll be adding rear leafs to get it closer to stock rake.  Plus I'll be adding my cap back on that seems to weigh around 300lbs.

Optical illusion or not, it still *looks* nose high.  My truck has the RC 2" kit and it definitely looks nose high at times, especially parked facing uphill on even a slight incline. Measurements confirm there is a half inch of rake but it doesn't always look that way.  Drives me crazy to the point that I bought the 2" rear block kit to get the back end up another inch.  Something about the design of the truck from the cab forward that creates the nose high illusion.  

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TRG Enthusiast

TRG

Posted
Posted
On 5/16/2018 at 2:53 PM, sulvn55 said:

Should work now, used the wrong URL.

 

It is a great setup! I think it is the best option for proportions with these trucks on 22's Personally I love these tires also, great wear, minimal road noise (for an A/T Tire).

 

All in all with the worst part is the fuel mileage. I get a constant 15mpg average driving mostly interstates and 5k miles/month wit work. 

Looks good!  Did you have to re-calibrate the speedo when you went with that size rubber?  Also any issue with that size and gear ratio and/or noticeable power reduction?  I currently have 45 and want to bump up to 55 to have more meat on the tire and not worry about dinging up the rims, but thought I heard that there could be an issue depending on what you have for a gear ratio.... 

sulvn55 New Member

sulvn55

Posted
Posted
10 minutes ago, TRG said:

Looks good!  Did you have to re-calibrate the speedo when you went with that size rubber?  Also any issue with that size and gear ratio and/or noticeable power reduction?  I currently have 45 and want to bump up to 55 to have more meat on the tire and not worry about dinging up the rims, but thought I heard that there could be an issue depending on what you have for a gear ratio.... 

I did not re-calibrate my speedo but it is off. I used my phone GPS to get an idea of how bad and it appears to be pretty minor until you get to higher speeds. 76MPH on the speedo is 80 in reality. There are conversion charts that show you how far off it calculates to, I think TireSize.com has one. I have not noticed power issues. I Love the 6.2L and when you get on it, it goes! Even with all the meat that the Nitto's have it can be annoying on a rainy day around town.

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Epsilon Plus Enthusiast

Epsilon Plus

Posted
Posted

Any Superlift 3.5 users/info around that someone may have noticed?

 

There are very few posts that turn up about it on Google or searching this site.

 

Mostly, people just exclaim that it may be garbage like the RC 3.5, however, most of the RC 3.5 hate seems to be back when it was just a spacer kit. Seems RC responded and included UCAs and diff drop in a separate kit. Well, the Superlift 3.5 does the same giving UCAs and diff drop. Short of going full Zone 4.5, this seems like it should level and avoid balljoint/geometry issues but I can't be certain as I am still trying to learn what joints are hit the hardest by lifting and what CAN be done to correct it while still lifting.

 

It's really a PITA trying to find a kit that just levels the damn truck out without eating up the fragile crap up front.

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jgraves13 Enthusiast

jgraves13

Posted
Posted
Any Superlift 3.5 users/info around that someone may have noticed?
 
There are very few posts that turn up about it on Google or searching this site.
 
Mostly, people just exclaim that it may be garbage like the RC 3.5, however, most of the RC 3.5 hate seems to be back when it was just a spacer kit. Seems RC responded and included UCAs and diff drop in a separate kit. Well, the Superlift 3.5 does the same giving UCAs and diff drop. Short of going full Zone 4.5, this seems like it should level and avoid balljoint/geometry issues but I can't be certain as I am still trying to learn what joints are hit the hardest by lifting and what CAN be done to correct it while still lifting.
 
It's really a PITA trying to find a kit that just levels the damn truck out without eating up the fragile crap up front.


UCA and a diff drop don't help lower balljoints. Do it right the first time, even if it takes a little bit more time to save


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