2014+ Leveling Kits

Epsilon Plus · May 20, 2018

On ‎5‎/‎18‎/‎2018 at 10:31 PM, jgraves13 said:

UCA and a diff drop don't help lower balljoints. Do it right the first time, even if it takes a little bit more time to save

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It's not the money, I just preferred to level it out without jacking it up and without wearing things out. It seems lifts include provisions to address the LCAs and stuff too.

Meh.

At this point, I'm leaning more towards trading it in on a ZR2 rather than trying to make it something its not.

jgraves13 · May 24, 2018

2" RC level, 295/70/17 nitto Terra grappler G2. Little bit of rubbing on the plastic and felt liner in the back, but don't have trim any metal!

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Buckem · May 25, 2018

What is everyone running over factory specs for front end alignment? The level kit manufacturer says to run factory specs but that has lead to cords showing on the outside edge of tires. Anyone have or remember what there setting were as far as toe in and camber? Need new tires and the alignment guys said the best they can do is trial and error, adjust and check in a few thousand miles.

spenpet · May 25, 2018

49 minutes ago, Buckem said:

What is everyone running over factory specs for front end alignment? The level kit manufacturer says to run factory specs but that has lead to cords showing on the outside edge of tires. Anyone have or remember what there setting were as far as toe in and camber? Need new tires and the alignment guys said the best they can do is trial and error, adjust and check in a few thousand miles.

I don't have the setting, but would echo his advice...I got mine leveled, aligned and then new tires...(plug for Discount Tire) I take them in religiously at 5k miles and get them rotated and checked for wear...absolutely no uneven wear at all, and my tires really didn't even show any (normal) wear until about 25k miles, when they just started to look like i drove on them...

**2" RC front level, didn't touch the back...factory wheels, 285/65R18 KO2 BFG

Buckem · May 26, 2018

I had the tire shop set toe in at -0.12 left and-0.13 right. Factory setting was .05 and .05. Will see what happens. In desperate need for new tires now. Asked if tire guy could turn my tires on the rim so wore side is opposite of where it is and would not do. Would like to monitor where on these old tires a bit. Maybe flop backs to fronts.

Edited May 26, 2018 by Buckem

Arkangel · May 27, 2018

17 hours ago, Buckem said:

I had the tire shop set toe in at -0.12 left and-0.13 right. Factory setting was .05 and .05. Will see what happens. In desperate need for new tires now. Asked if tire guy could turn my tires on the rim so wore side is opposite of where it is and would not do. Would like to monitor where on these old tires a bit. Maybe flop backs to fronts.

Just an FYI. Simpletire.com has dirt cheap prices and an additional 15% off Toyo right now. Got 4 33’s for $979 to my door!

z0_rick · May 27, 2018

2015 Silverado LT 4x4. Motofab 3" front lift and 1" in back.

On Nitto Terra Grappler G2's.

285 x 70 x 17

American Racing 910 Wheels.

Leans · May 27, 2018

Hey guys,

New to the forum and I’ve got to say thanks because I was able to get a good idea of what I wanted to do to my truck by scrolling through all the awesome trucks on here.

Here is my new to me 2014 GMC Sierra SLT.

I use my bed everyday so I opted to do the 2” Motofab Level to maintain a bit of rake. Really happy with the way it turned out.

Before and After:

Edited May 27, 2018 by Leans

thsoccer3 · May 29, 2018

I have read conflicting information on this site and have also received conflicting information from different tire shops around town. Can anyone chime in with experience?

I have a 2017 GMC 1500 SLT 2wd with a 2" front level (Motofab upper strut "donut")

Can I fit a 33" x 12.5" on the OEM 20" wheels, or should I go with the 275/60/R20?

I have also researched a 295/55/R20. I am hoping for a 33" tire with maximum width and avoiding any rubbing issues.

MBSierra17 · May 30, 2018

I imagine you'll rub UCA at full lock with the 12.5" on stock wheels. I barely rub at full lock with 275/60/20 on stock wheels with Bilstein 5100 at the top setting.

thsoccer3 · May 30, 2018

13 hours ago, MBSierra17 said:

I imagine you'll rub UCA at full lock with the 12.5" on stock wheels. I barely rub at full lock with 275/60/20 on stock wheels with Bilstein 5100 at the top setting.

Thank you.

K_Ying · June 1, 2018

Evening! New to the forum and back to the Sierra family. Traded a ‘13 in on a car then decided we really needed a truck so ended up with a ‘15 SLE. I noticed it had a leveling kit and doing some more looking, it has a thicker block in back and Rancho shocks. I saw on a FB group that some came from factory with the bigger blocks in rear and Rancho shocks but wasn’t sure if the front would have had the leveling kit? Just trying to verify.

Thanks!

thsoccer3 · June 1, 2018

I installed my Motofab 2" front level myself last weekend. It is the upper strut "doughnut" style spacer. I had an alignment done by the local tire shop the next day. Initially, everything rode well and nothing was making noise.

Now, 6 days after install, I hear a knocking style noise when I turn the steering wheel at slow speeds. I can only make the noise happen while traveling very slow in parking lots and turning the wheel almost to full lock. It is usually 2-3 knocks. It happens when turning the wheel and then happens again while straightening out - almost as if something is shifting, and then shifting back. I re-checked tightness of all components that were loosened for the install (tie-rod, sway bar, upper and lower strut mount bolts).

Because this only happens at extreme turns during slow speeds, I am wondering if it is the tie-rod connections. Possibly they are over-torqued?

Does anyone have a recommended torque value for the tie-rods and any other suggestions on what may be the culprit?

Arkangel · June 1, 2018

2 hours ago, thsoccer3 said:

I installed my Motofab 2" front level myself last weekend. It is the upper strut "doughnut" style spacer. I had an alignment done by the local tire shop the next day. Initially, everything rode well and nothing was making noise.

Now, 6 days after install, I hear a knocking style noise when I turn the steering wheel at slow speeds. I can only make the noise happen while traveling very slow in parking lots and turning the wheel almost to full lock. It is usually 2-3 knocks. It happens when turning the wheel and then happens again while straightening out - almost as if something is shifting, and then shifting back. I re-checked tightness of all components that were loosened for the install (tie-rod, sway bar, upper and lower strut mount bolts).

Because this only happens at extreme turns during slow speeds, I am wondering if it is the tie-rod connections. Possibly they are over-torqued?

Does anyone have a recommended torque value for the tie-rods and any other suggestions on what may be the culprit?

What year is your truck?