Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

On my stock 20's my tire guy says I can only run 285's with a 2.25 level.

Posted

struggling with size of tire.I am looking to fit 325 65 r18 on my 4x4 with a 2.5 lift leveling kit. The tire size is listed as a 325/65R18 = 34.6X12.8R18. seems like it is not going to happen as far as sizes go. I know they will most likely rub but how bad and where? does anyone have any ideas or if anyone is running a lift and is/are still rubbing? please let me know asap im getting new tires this coming weekend and I want to go big just in case I add the body lift kit as well. Just hard to find good tires that I want in size18. thanks in advance cheers.

 

Wishfull thinking I know but I am asking for thoughts and constructive ideas, not negative nancy "thats dumb" ideas lol.

 

I was debating those tires too with a 2.25 level and a 1.5 body lift. Talking to some people with the combo lifts, I still think some rubbing will occur.

Posted

I just ordered the Pro Comp 2.25" leveling kit from 4wheelparts today. The sales guys said that this would make the truck sit level. But I'm reading conflicting info that the front is now going to be 0.5" higher?

 

Anyone with first hand experience with this leveling kit that can help? I've got a couple weeks until my appointment if I need to make some changes.

 

I'm running a 2014 Silverado LTZ Crew Cab 4x4 w/ max towing package. All help is much appreciated. Thank you.

Posted (edited)

I just ordered the Pro Comp 2.25" leveling kit from 4wheelparts today. The sales guys said that this would make the truck sit level. But I'm reading conflicting info that the front is now going to be 0.5" higher?

 

Anyone with first hand experience with this leveling kit that can help? I've got a couple weeks until my appointment if I need to make some changes.

 

I'm running a 2014 Silverado LTZ Crew Cab 4x4 w/ max towing package. All help is much appreciated. Thank you.

You will sit very close to level with 2.25" in front. It will not make your front end .5" higher than the rear. Edited by 14x4
Posted

I see that a lot of people have removed the air dam on their truck. I like mine on but I've managed to ding it up a bit going off road so I was just wondering if anyone is around the Houston area that has removed theirs and wants to sell it to me. I'm willing to go out as far as the Austin/San Antonio area or even up to Dallas/Fort Worth area. Maybe even Louisiana but I don't have family or camp out there so I don't want to hold my breath for that one. Message me if you do!

 

Thanks!

Tuan

Posted (edited)

0db51e93b2007233707e0535ecc87482.jpg

ee262b9bde8206bec19b982476bf35c9.jpg

 

275 60 20 Nitto Terra Grapplers. 2.5" Rough Country level kit and 1.5 Zone Body lift. Clears by a mile. Going to trim my air deflector. Don't want to remove it because I did and just didn't like the look. I think it is because of the curved bumper bottom that is throwing me off.

 

Photo shop (on my phone, lol) of what it would look like trimmed about 1.5 inches.

 

282fc5cfa837f7be1cb1b7653da7dac0.jpg

aa724bf156fbf0255bb448863905d315.jpg

Edited by FastWS6TA
  • Like 1
Posted

 

You'll need probably a 4" suspension lift to run that tire. Don't even try it with a level kit.

 

 

 

I was debating those tires too with a 2.25 level and a 1.5 body lift. Talking to some people with the combo lifts, I still think some rubbing will occur.

yeah i thought so thanks for the input. I think I will end up getting a 33 12.50 tire instead. seems like a few people are running them with minor rubbing only under full lock and a load. thanks again sorry took me so long to reply account would not let me log in for some reason.

Posted

2.25 pro comp leveling kit and pro comp pro runner shocks with 295-65-20

do you get alot of rubbing with this setup? did you trim like crazy? the numbers say 295/65R20 = 35.1X11.61R20 do the shocks lift it as well? this may have been covered but i didnt see it....

  • Like 1
Posted

When I bought my truck they had installed my RC 2.5 and put Toyo AT's 275 /65/20 (wrong ones though) and I never noticed any rubbing. But, I didn't like how narrow they are. Then went to 305/55/20 Nitro Trail Grabbler, and those sucked something terrible! Took the back, and had them install 285/65/20 BFG which I'm not a fan of but better than the Nittos. They barley rub on hard turns. I know have decided to take a step back and go with a new aftermarket 18" wheel and Toyo MT 295/70/18.

 

I hope they don't rub.

 

Hope that helps...

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Did they rub?

Posted

i need to know if 305 55 20s will fit on stock allterrain rims with a 2in level on front .will i have rubbing issues thanks

Posted

I've read this entire thread and saw the question was asked but never answered; anyone know if 295/70/18 will fit with a rc 2" level and stock wheels? Thanks in advance.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Planning on buying the RC 2" front levelling kit for my Silverado LTZ, but it asks for aluminum or steel, which should be chosen for my truck?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Edit: aluminum

Edited by Tlarose

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,973
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RichardRS
    Newest Member
    RichardRS
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 811 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Well that book won't sell many copies. Taking ones right foot off the loud pedal never gets applause. Funny really, It isn't that people don't know what to do...they just don't want to do it. But they will complain about it. About bad craftsmanship, about the cost of fuel, about the cost of part and repairs and mainly they complain that the solution while still possible isn't one they are willing to do.    I observe this daily. 'Gas cost to much!", they wail, while they mat it passing at 80+ mpg and scoot down the road like gas cost a dime a gallon. Then complain about the few that will lift and save both fuel and iron like they are owed and own the road.    Good thing they haven't an ounce of influence on my equipment. The rest I just laugh at. Stupid is as stupid does, right Forest?     
    • Today I filled up with 4.899 gallons of fuel at a cost of $4.899 a gallon. $24 bucks. 290 miles. 59.2 mpg. After my 4% COSTCO discount just under eight cents a mile.  
    • Howdy folks,   Recently I pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain (part numbers coming soon - will have to disassemble), and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets).   On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash for the heating element.     No problem… or so I thought.   I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground.   Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though.   Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power.    Aha! Heat! But I seemingly can’t turn it off AND still no backlights on any of the buttons.    Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped.   Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!
    • I'm about 1800 miles into my last oil change, and yesterday a message appeared saying oil life was at 77%. Not sure why it popped up but I think all of these electronics could be susceptible to solar flares or somesuch. I change my oil right at 3K each time, and that was the first time in 10870 miles that message came up. Strange thing is that it showed on the screen at all since I don't drive with that sort of info displayed on the DIC.
    • I’m praying that someone sees this and can help me out… pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain, and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets).   On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash.     No problem… or so I thought.   I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground.   Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though.   Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power.    Aha! Heat! But can’t turn it off AND still no backlights.   Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped.   Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...