Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

JimmyVal Enthusiast

JimmyVal

Posted
Posted

I've noticed a lot of people complaining about rough country plastic spacers which in reality is not plastic but a fiberglass reinforced nylon which is really strong and can handle more pressure per square inch than most metals. Everyone thinks that since its metal its stronger when in reality could be a lot weaker. I have seen so many aluminum kits snap in half do to poor aluminum quality as well as it being a cast piece opposed to a forged piece. For those who don't know the differences a cast piece has molten aluminum poured into a mould to create the piece. A forged piece is a block of molten aluminum that has been compressed and let dry to a solid block then placed into a CNC machine and then the design is cut out. The problem with cast is that when its poured into an mould and let dry small air pockets are formed inside most not visible to the naked eye which create weak spots where the part can easily snap as I have seen happen to a lot of these cheap ebay kits. A forged piece is stronger as it reduces significantly the air pockets in the piece. If you weigh a cast and forged piece same design the forged piece will always weigh more as it has been compressed. Don't buy the cheap aluminum ebay kits, buy from a reputable company as they have done the research and testing. To those who still question the fiberglass reinforced nylon block strength I used to own an f150 with a 3" body lift with reinforced nylon blocks. The truck was in an accident on the highway and rolled over. The truck was totaled cab crushed in frame bent like crazy and twisted as well. The floor of cab ripped apart at spot welds. The blocks were intact, never bent, cracked or snapped a bolt. After seeing this I never question the strength of these reinforced nylon blocks as I know they will not fail. I have not heard of anyone saying these nylon blocks cracking or breaking, just negative remarks from those who don't know what they are talking about.

 

I installed the RC 2 inch lift. I ordered the kit for steel control arms after verifying they were in fact steel using a magnet. I was worried GM might just start painting the aluminum arms. In any case I installed the bolts from the bottom as specified in the instructions and have had no issues with the bolts rubbing on the drive shafts.

 

My truck had a 4 inch rake for some reason: 36 inches front, 40 inches rear measured center of tire to bottom of fender lip. (Sierra Double Cab Z71). I didn't want to go beyond 2 inches. It's now 38 and 40 and I can live with that.

 

Very happy with the lift so far.

post-130867-0-12154600-1411657490_thumb.jpg

post-130867-0-27627300-1411657563_thumb.jpg

post-130867-0-12154600-1411657490_thumb.jpg

post-130867-0-27627300-1411657563_thumb.jpg

post-130867-0-12154600-1411657490_thumb.jpg

post-130867-0-27627300-1411657563_thumb.jpg

post-130867-0-12154600-1411657490_thumb.jpg

post-130867-0-27627300-1411657563_thumb.jpg

BlueWrapper Enthusiast

BlueWrapper

Posted
Posted

Heck yeah if you will post them on here. All I have are a few snaps at a gas station. Send me a pm with info and I'll send you pics to post.

 

Pics please!

scottsglock17 Enthusiast

scottsglock17

Posted
Posted

Works perfectly and I'm so damn excited. A very slight rub on the carpeted fender well at full lock. Nothing I'm worried about as far as trimming at all. 295 70 r18 on a 2014 sierra with a 2.5 rough country lift. Trail grapplers great tires and smooth ride for being mud tires.it won't let me upload my pictures. But as soon as I can I will. But I have never been happier that a huge tire fit this good without a major lift. Has milage took a hit but worth it in my opinion lol!

 

 

Awesome, can't wait to see some pics. The Trail Grapplers are the tires that I have used in the past, and in my opinion are a great tire. Thank you for the info. Enjoy.

SouthernSilveradoGuy85 Senior Enthusiast

SouthernSilveradoGuy85

Posted
Posted

 

I installed the RC 2 inch lift. I ordered the kit for steel control arms after verifying they were in fact steel using a magnet. I was worried GM might just start painting the aluminum arms. In any case I installed the bolts from the bottom as specified in the instructions and have had no issues with the bolts rubbing on the drive shafts.

 

My truck had a 4 inch rake for some reason: 36 inches front, 40 inches rear measured center of tire to bottom of fender lip. (Sierra Double Cab Z71). I didn't want to go beyond 2 inches. It's now 38 and 40 and I can live with that.

 

Very happy with the lift so far.

 

If you want it closer you can take the factory 1" lift blocks from the rear. A 2" rake for me would be perfect for me. I want to raise the front to help clearance but I don't want to level the truck completely. It looks better, but my old 98 was leveled and anytime I put any kind of real weight in the bed or pulled a heavy enough trailer it would look like it was dragging ass and I didn't like that. I even though about the leveling kit for the front and then replacing the 1" blocks in the rear with 2" blocks to raise the back about 1-2". I figured that way it lefts all around while still giving a rake.

JimmyVal Enthusiast

JimmyVal

Posted
Posted

 

If you want it closer you can take the factory 1" lift blocks from the rear. A 2" rake for me would be perfect for me. I want to raise the front to help clearance but I don't want to level the truck completely. It looks better, but my old 98 was leveled and anytime I put any kind of real weight in the bed or pulled a heavy enough trailer it would look like it was dragging ass and I didn't like that. I even though about the leveling kit for the front and then replacing the 1" blocks in the rear with 2" blocks to raise the back about 1-2". I figured that way it lefts all around while still giving a rake.

Thanks for the rear block suggestion. I think I'll leave it as is. Your point about carrying heavy loads is a valid one. I often trailer too. It would not look good sagging with a load.

ShotgunZ71 Senior Enthusiast

ShotgunZ71

Posted
Posted

I put the RC 2" level kit up front to pick it up, then added 1" to the back to give some rake. Also helps the saggy - ass when hauling or towing.

langston1726 Enthusiast

langston1726

Posted
Posted (edited)

Installed a 2" Top Guns Customz kit. Still on factory Goodyears. I'll be putting on a set of 285/55/20 or 295/55/20 ATs in the near future. Sits right at 0.5" lower in front.

 

307e7985c431928b74fd35d4e2c9b4b9.jpg

 

39487dfb41bf174a9a1c5205a3e9bf3a.jpg

 

bb01ffd9afde05cf1b23da076584cd1a.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by langston1726
Hogfan78 New Member

Hogfan78

Posted
Posted

I had a 1.5" kit installed a few days ago. I'm very happy with the results.

 

My gas mileage hasn't changed. The truck does ride slightly stiffer but it's hardly noticeable.

 

post-134614-141188155531_thumb.jpg

 

post-134614-141188159042_thumb.jpg

 

Pre kit measurements:

Front - 36.5"

Rear - 39.25"

Post kit measurements:

Front - 38"

Rear - 39"

post-134614-141188155531_thumb.jpg

post-134614-141188159042_thumb.jpg

post-134614-141188155531_thumb.jpg

post-134614-141188159042_thumb.jpg

post-134614-141188155531_thumb.jpg

post-134614-141188159042_thumb.jpg

  • Like 4
4x4 350 Enthusiast

4x4 350

Posted
Posted

Has anyone used a BDS 2" leveling kit on a 2014 Z71? how are the cv angles with a 2" level Im looking at instaling one in the next few weeks. Thanks for the help!

TBaganATX Enthusiast

TBaganATX

Posted
Posted

4e81536fdf51d4e723e53632cb066c97.jpg

a6d01e3e6d9107acce57a9f833fec01d.jpg

Added the. 5" wheel spacers. Bumped them out just enough to make me happy.

I like your lights! Where did you get them, or what did you have done. Sweet truck!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      AFM Experience

      By Atlas · Posted

      When I had a Bumper subscription for a few days when I needed to run title histories on cars I was looking at, I decided to look up a few of my old/past vehicles.   My 2015 Silverado was still actively registered and it last sold in 2024 with 160k on the clock. No idea if that's on the original engine but someone's keeping it on the road or the original AFM stuff is still going.   It used 0w20. I remember feeding it Mobil 0w20 AFE for the first 30k of its life on <5k OCI's.     Edit: Just did a nationwide search on Autotrader for 2015-2025 Silverados with 5.3's and sorted by highest mileage first.   357k 352k 292k 291k 290k 277k 271k 268k 266k 259k 256k   High mileage on a modern 5.3 doesn't seem all that uncommon, but that's just searching mostly dealer ads on Autotrader. FB Marketplace has all kinds of high mileage 5.3's going back to 2007    
    • Chuck FB
      Bridgestone vs Goodyear tires?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I can't say I have ever heard of someone getting that type of mileage out of a set of tires even though they rotated on a regular basis but without a doubt if the front end gets wear and those tires are no longer able to track straight it scrubs them off, and driving style and road surface make a huge difference as well.    However that is not what prompted me to comment as it was the new tire theme of sitting in storage waiting to be used scenario. I am sure some tires can last for quite a while in storage if its not too warm and out of the sunlight but unfortunately some tires the way they their rubber compound is formulated they can age and dry out even in a reasonably decent storage location. My brother ran into this maybe three years ago when he was looking at the tires that were on his dually truck and a combination of wear on the rear ones and noticing that the front tires had some cracks around the sidewall of the tire not far from the bead but he had replaced only the front ones not long ago with 2 of the remaining 6 he had left from the initial two sets of takeoffs he had all bought at the same time .... 10 years ago ! ( the years fly by, a truck that only gets used a bit to haul a camper during the summer and sits in a shed for a large part of the year ). That second set of 6 tires, two he had put on the front prior like I said and they had very little wear but those cracks were now present. So we go into the shed where the other 4 tires had been stored all this time and every one of them had the same cracks in the sidewalls and so in the end it amounted to throwing away 6 brand new but 10 year old takeoff tires into the dump that he got a deal on at a tire shop because they aged out. They were a Ford factory equipment BFG tire and those tires did not age well compared to some tires I've seen far older then that and did not show that type of aging. True, they always say up here anyway that 7 years is sort of a limit for age by rights, we don't have the intense prolonged heat that many of you have down in the states that just cook tires and depends on where the vehicle sits when not in use. GB, another words maybe had you bought a set of tires to store it would have been fine as long as you used them up fast enough but there are no guarantees when it comes to rubber, tires or of that other type stored in some guys wallets 😆
    • Head South
      Open Door Chimes When Key is Out

      By Head South · Posted

      2020 2500 HD...I had some trouble getting the key into the ignition switch but went in fine after applying some extra effort. Since then, the door chimes when open when the key is out of the ignition. Also, when I lock the doors with the switch on the arm rest, the driver door locks but then unlocks. (I can lock everything fine with the fob) The message on the little screen displays the "Engine Hours"...kinda weird.   I'm guessing something happened to the ignition switch and it thinks the key is still in there. I unplugged the batteries for 20 minutes, no change. There are a number of videos on YouTube but nothing I can find that address this specific issue. Ideas appreciated, thank you.
    • newdude
      Seems to be Missing a lot of Updates

      By newdude · Posted

      Based on what I can tell, yes.   As for updating it, its a mixed bag.  Updates do fix a lot of issues, but occasionally can create some oddities.  They do more good than harm though overall.     Here's what the most current one does and a  V171 Improvements Important: Improvements will vary by model, build configuration, system, and sales region. Not all vehicles have all features. OnStar and Wi-Fi may not work after remote start CarPlay may not automatically reconnect Part of the Driver Attention messaging screen may be in English even though the language is set to something else XM may not work After a dead 12V the radio may set to Arabic at each startup Bluetooth contacts might not be able to sync with the vehicle During an OTA the 12V battery may drain Customer might see a screen telling them to return to the dealer After changing the Wi-Fi SSID or password a device may not disconnect If a device is connected on the 2.4Ghz band, nothing will connect to the 5Ghz one, which could show as slow Wi-Fi speeds Customers might have noticed Wi-Fi dropping in certain areas and reconnecting later Customer might see the top of the screen blinking during Android Auto Android Auto may not connect CarPlay audio might momentarily cut out The "Add Phone" button may be grayed out The radio may not start up   V167 Most Notable Improvements:   Outside Air Temperature is incorrect. -You may see a popup message for Engine Shift. (Corvette Only) After changing the exhaust sound they get a popup that "mode change not applied", even though it was. -When changing volume, the volume bar is for Traffic instead of Audio. -(Corvette Only) Improvements to the placement of buttons and text. -If the customer receives the message "Apple CarPlay Could not connect", the cursor might move in the opposite direction than expected when using the control knob. -Android Auto automatically starts playing their music, even though they have turned that off in settings. -Intermittently they have a red OnStar LED with no OnStar function and/or no audio. -The minimum length of the Wi-Fi password was increased to 12 characters. -The popup message "Driver Attention Check, check your mirrors or Super Cruise will shut down" may not have come up on the display when it should have. -Startup animation added for 20th anniversary of the V-Series on Cadillacs. -The Navigation app received location improvements when going under long underpasses. -In the Navigation app there are filters for charging points that the vehicle cannot use.   V164 Most Notable Improvements Most notable improvements contained in this release may include: Apps Intermittently, an “SD Card Removed” message will pop up in the Navigation app. While in the audio app, the radio may stop working. Trailer Tire Pressure sensors may not be learned in the Trailer app. Not being able to return to the home screen while in the Camera app. After an ignition cycle, the radio might go to a black screen or stop working if using Sirius XM. Spotify icon truncated on Audio app.   SXM When changing power modes with the ignition switch, the HVAC pop up might appear. During startup, the radio will show the brand splash screen then go blank. Receiving a confirmation pop-up when changing drive modes. A “Return to Dealer” message may appear on the radio screen. SuperCruise setting toggle may not work. System After an ignition cycle, the radio might go black or stop working if using Sirius XM (SXM). Settings When performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working. After performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working when trying to switch users. When trying to go into the Language section quickly after startup, the radio may stop working. Projection Wireless CarPlay cannot be connected after unpairing another wireless Android Auto device. When the Android Auto screen comes up to connect wirelessly, the screen may freeze if the Cancel button is pressed. Removed the Apple CarPlay Cannot Connect screen when a device fails to pair during the autoconnect process. CarPlay information may not show up in the audio app. Near Field Communications (NFC) chime may be heard when NFC does not work. The Cannot Connect screen does not pop up after the first connection on wireless CarPlay fails. Apple CarPlay is now functional in Guam. Over the Air (OTA) When a software update is cancelled, the downloading logo may still be displayed. Energy When using the Energy app, the radio may stop working. When plugging in the vehicle, the display might show “Now” instead of “Charging Upon Plug In.” Instrument Cluster Voice recognition can be started while on an OnStar or phone call. When downloading contacts, there is a progress bar and circles on the Recents page of the cluster. The temperature on the cluster and the display may be different. After receiving and ending a call on the secondary paired phone, the cluster may get stuck on the phone menu. Bluetooth Intermittent Bluetooth connection loss.
    • AndrewF
      Front End Rattle

      By AndrewF · Posted

      Looking for help troubleshooting a metallic like front end rattle. Figured I’d see if anyone had thoughts before I schedule an appointment with the dealer.   The rattle is fairly loud and occurs primarily when the front driver side wheel hits a bump, even fairly minor road seams. Sometimes does it when the passenger hits a bump but I don’t believe when the rear hits. Rattle still occurs when foot is pressing brake peddle so I think that rules out the caliper rattle I’ve read about. I’ve also checked the running boards and they are tight.   Most noticeable at slow speeds.    Any insight is appreciated. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...