2014+ Leveling Kits

SouthernSilveradoGuy85 · September 23, 2014

All you need tolevel the K2s is a 2"-2.5" spacer in the front. I have a 2" skyjacker level kit, dealer installed. It sits perfect. I even had 2 other dealers tell me that a 2-2.5" spacer in the front levels the truck. Leaving the rear stock. If you change out the rear with a 2" block then you, atleast when we talk mathematically, get some rake. If you need 2.5" to level front with stock rear, then adding 1" to stock rear would require you to put a 3.5" spacer in the front to level.

Agree on that. Was just trying to figure out his setup. But it seems 2-2.5 in front is what is required. YMMV of course.

Ya the reason I was confused was because every single leveling kit (not lift) I've seen for the K2xx has been either an upper or lower strut spacer. If I do anything lift wise on my truck it will probably just level on the front, andas Texas said, replacing the rear blocks to 2" so it takes some rake out while still having a rake while also lifting the whole truck a little since the front ends are lower than they should be, especially for a 4x4.

travalan21 · September 23, 2014

I've read this entire thread and saw the question was asked but never answered; anyone know if 295/70/18 will fit with a rc 2" level and stock wheels? Thanks in advance.

well I guess im gonna find out if it is gonna fit ordered the tires from discount. I am expecting some rub but honestley I will trim what I have to when I have to. I will update next week when they do the test fit, and I cant wait.

Agacmddj1 · September 23, 2014

was it 2.5 up front and replace the rear block with a 2" block? Therefore 2.5 upfront and 1" in rear?

Yes, it is. I completely messed up and switched the numbers from the front to the back.

Tlarose · September 23, 2014

Rough country sells a level kit that is just 2" to the front, that will make it level for you. I just bought one, I didn't want more height to the back.

SouthernSilveradoGuy85 · September 23, 2014

I know a lot are using the rough country spacer. But, I've also heard that the bolt on each side that is under the axle shafts hit the shaft. So that's why I'm probably leaning towards an upper strut spacer if I do level it. Plus the lower strut mounts that I've seen aren't metal and I don't really like that.

cbprov · September 23, 2014

hi i finnally bit the bullet ,2in level 33x12.5x20 federal tires no rubbing mounted on my factory 20 in all terrain rims! , aggressive tire has some road noise will post picks soon looks great

Edited September 23, 2014 by cbprov

14SLTZ71 · September 24, 2014

I know a lot are using the rough country spacer. But, I've also heard that the bolt on each side that is under the axle shafts hit the shaft. So that's why I'm probably leaning towards an upper strut spacer if I do level it. Plus the lower strut mounts that I've seen aren't metal and I don't really like that.

The lower strut spacer not being metal is no problem they have been doing that for years. You probably don't want the spacer to be metal if you have aluminum control arms anyways. It is more difficult to install a spacer on top of the strut then the bottom. As for the bolts hitting the CV shaft, no problem, just do like I did below.

"I had the same issue, one of the bolts would hit the CV shaft if I installed it with the head of the bolt on the bottom per the instructions from Rough Country.

With the upper ball joint and steering linkage ball joint disconnected I was able to tilt the hub assembly enough to get the CV shaft out of the way and then put the bolts in with the head on the top side and nuts on the bottom. Here are some pics.

Edited September 24, 2014 by 15LTZZ71

SouthernSilveradoGuy85 · September 24, 2014

The lower strut spacer not being metal is no problem they have been doing that for years. You probably don't want the spacer to be metal if you have aluminum control arms anyways. It is more difficult to install a spacer on top of the strut then the bottom. As for the bolts hitting the CV shaft, no problem, just do like I did below.

"I had the same issue, one of the bolts would hit the CV shaft if I installed it with the head of the bolt on the bottom per the instructions from Rough Country.

With the upper ball joint and steering linkage ball joint disconnected I was able to tilt the hub assembly enough to get the CV shaft out of the way and then put the bolts in with the head on the top side and nuts on the bottom. Here are some pics.

My A-arms are steel.

As for the bolt I don't know why I didn't think of that lol. All of the vids of seen with the RC spacer they do it like the directions say with the nut on top. I saw someone even went as far as to cut that bolt on each side shorter. Not sure if it matters rather the bolt head is on the top or bottom though, but I don't see a problem.

As for the material, I'm sure it's fine. I know it isn't simple plastic. I guess I would feel safer with a metal spacer.

I know the upper spacers are harder to install and would need a strut compressor, but as I stated I guess I would feel safer with a metal spacer.

P.S - I like your avatar lol

peejaykay · September 24, 2014

Planning a 2.5" spacer up front on my CC/LT/Std box w/18s. What's the largest size I can go without rubbing, on stock wheels? 285/65/18?

alexgg2 · September 24, 2014

My A-arms are steel.

As for the bolt I don't know why I didn't think of that lol. All of the vids of seen with the RC spacer they do it like the directions say with the nut on top. I saw someone even went as far as to cut that bolt on each side shorter. Not sure if it matters rather the bolt head is on the top or bottom though, but I don't see a problem.

As for the material, I'm sure it's fine. I know it isn't simple plastic. I guess I would feel safer with a metal spacer.

I know the upper spacers are harder to install and would need a strut compressor, but as I stated I guess I would feel safer with a metal spacer.

P.S - I like your avatar lol

I've noticed a lot of people complaining about rough country plastic spacers which in reality is not plastic but a fiberglass reinforced nylon which is really strong and can handle more pressure per square inch than most metals. Everyone thinks that since its metal its stronger when in reality could be a lot weaker. I have seen so many aluminum kits snap in half do to poor aluminum quality as well as it being a cast piece opposed to a forged piece. For those who don't know the differences a cast piece has molten aluminum poured into a mould to create the piece. A forged piece is a block of molten aluminum that has been compressed and let dry to a solid block then placed into a CNC machine and then the design is cut out. The problem with cast is that when its poured into an mould and let dry small air pockets are formed inside most not visible to the naked eye which create weak spots where the part can easily snap as I have seen happen to a lot of these cheap ebay kits. A forged piece is stronger as it reduces significantly the air pockets in the piece. If you weigh a cast and forged piece same design the forged piece will always weigh more as it has been compressed. Don't buy the cheap aluminum ebay kits, buy from a reputable company as they have done the research and testing. To those who still question the fiberglass reinforced nylon block strength I used to own an f150 with a 3" body lift with reinforced nylon blocks. The truck was in an accident on the highway and rolled over. The truck was totaled cab crushed in frame bent like crazy and twisted as well. The floor of cab ripped apart at spot welds. The blocks were intact, never bent, cracked or snapped a bolt. After seeing this I never question the strength of these reinforced nylon blocks as I know they will not fail. I have not heard of anyone saying these nylon blocks cracking or breaking, just negative remarks from those who don't know what they are talking about.

SouthernSilveradoGuy85 · September 24, 2014

I've noticed a lot of people complaining about rough country plastic spacers which in reality is not plastic but a fiberglass reinforced nylon which is really strong and can handle more pressure per square inch than most metals. Everyone thinks that since its metal its stronger when in reality could be a lot weaker. I have seen so many aluminum kits snap in half do to poor aluminum quality as well as it being a cast piece opposed to a forged piece. For those who don't know the differences a cast piece has molten aluminum poured into a mould to create the piece. A forged piece is a block of molten aluminum that has been compressed and let dry to a solid block then placed into a CNC machine and then the design is cut out. The problem with cast is that when its poured into an mould and let dry small air pockets are formed inside most not visible to the naked eye which create weak spots where the part can easily snap as I have seen happen to a lot of these cheap ebay kits. A forged piece is stronger as it reduces significantly the air pockets in the piece. If you weigh a cast and forged piece same design the forged piece will always weigh more as it has been compressed. Don't buy the cheap aluminum ebay kits, buy from a reputable company as they have done the research and testing. To those who still question the fiberglass reinforced nylon block strength I used to own an f150 with a 3" body lift with reinforced nylon blocks. The truck was in an accident on the highway and rolled over. The truck was totaled cab crushed in frame bent like crazy and twisted as well. The floor of cab ripped apart at spot welds. The blocks were intact, never bent, cracked or snapped a bolt. After seeing this I never question the strength of these reinforced nylon blocks as I know they will not fail. I have not heard of anyone saying these nylon blocks cracking or breaking, just negative remarks from those who don't know what they are talking about.

Thanks for the info. As I stated I knew it was something more than just plastic. Also I would only buy from known companies.

scottsglock17 · September 25, 2014

well I guess im gonna find out if it is gonna fit ordered the tires from discount. I am expecting some rub but honestley I will trim what I have to when I have to. I will update next week when they do the test fit, and I cant wait.

I am interested in this as well. I ran that size tire on my 2.5" leveled 2013 F150 and had no issues, but I can't seem to get an answer on any forum about that size on the 2014 Silverado/Sierra.

I hope that it works out for you, because if it does I will be ordering that exact same size very soon. Good Luck.

travalan21 · September 25, 2014

Works perfectly and I'm so damn excited. A very slight rub on the carpeted fender well at full lock. Nothing I'm worried about as far as trimming at all. 295 70 r18 on a 2014 sierra with a 2.5 rough country lift. Trail grapplers great tires and smooth ride for being mud tires.it won't let me upload my pictures. But as soon as I can I will. But I have never been happier that a huge tire fit this good without a major lift. Has milage took a hit but worth it in my opinion lol!

I am interested in this as well. I ran that size tire on my 2.5" leveled 2013 F150 and had no issues, but I can't seem to get an answer on any forum about that size on the 2014 Silverado/Sierra.

I hope that it works out for you, because if it does I will be ordering that exact same size very soon. Good Luck.

Texas Husker · September 25, 2014

Works perfectly and I'm so damn excited. A very slight rub on the carpeted fender well at full lock. Nothing I'm worried about as far as trimming at all. 295 70 r18 on a 2014 sierra with a 2.5 rough country lift. Trail grapplers great tires and smooth ride for being mud tires.it won't let me upload my pictures. But as soon as I can I will. But I have never been happier that a huge tire fit this good without a major lift. Has milage took a hit but worth it in my opinion lol!

Great to hear. One of my top sizes on my list. We need pics though!!! Can you email them?