Jump to content

Oil catch can?

C25A1guy

By C25A1guy
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

jrob56 Enthusiast

jrob56

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

Assuming all hose connections are tight and there aren't any vacuum leaks or anything, and the fact that you had hesitation and loss of power, I'm thinking it's just a coincidence and has nothing to do with the catch can. It's likely a bad spark plug, bad fuel injector.....something within the engine itself that's affecting the combustion process.

 

 

 

There are a ton of us in here with catch cans of varying makes/models and none that I know of have had any CEL's as a result.

 

Agree, I dont see anyway a can would do that. I thought there was another thread with an issue like this, several people having spark plug wires coming loose at the coil. I would check all 8 at both ends.

Edited by jrob56
  • Like 1
  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

ToesonTheNose
ToesonTheNose

Here at RX now they are doing a video install on my truck

Jay700
Jay700

My dealership said my catch can wasn't needed and wouldn't catch anything. I opened it in there shop after 2,000 miles and let it run on the floor. Lol

fondupot
fondupot

So, I added a second output fitting to my Original RX catch can. I had been emailing with the RevExtreme folks about the benefits of a dual output can, and they were gracious enough to send me the par

Posted Images

GDI Tech Enthusiast

GDI Tech

Posted
Posted

Has to be something routed incorrectly or a vacuum leal. If you can post pictures of all your hoses and connections, and the most important is the drain valve being closed (if so equipped).

 

And yes, the Extreme Auto can like this is the cheap China made junk. Anyone with a welded one got one of the originals. These as soon as it freezes out I think we will see plenty popping the glued on bottom and tops off:

 

DSCN1783_zpsf3ov53go.jpg​

DSCN1784_zpsolxuss1j.jpg​

 

These are what RXspeedworks sells so beware!!

kennerz Enthusiast

kennerz

Posted
Posted

Nice! Amazing that these guys have a clear conscience selling crap like that, especially for the price. Have to say elite treats there customers well and has a solid product.

Rotti54 Enthusiast

Rotti54

Posted
Posted

I don't see any evidence on my can that it is glued together at all. Guess I'll just see what happens as the bad weather nears

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

AC_USMC_Ret Enthusiast

AC_USMC_Ret

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

Assuming all hose connections are tight and there aren't any vacuum leaks or anything, and the fact that you had hesitation and loss of power, I'm thinking it's just a coincidence and has nothing to do with the catch can. It's likely a bad spark plug, bad fuel injector.....something within the engine itself that's affecting the combustion process.

 

 

 

There are a ton of us in here with catch cans of varying makes/models and none that I know of have had any CEL's as a result.

took to dealer, it was not believed to be related to the catch can...they said they could not find anything stored. Service tech said it could have been a bad fuel or some other small quick issue. I will continue to watch but all is well for now!- Thanks !

 

Agree, I dont see anyway a can would do that. I thought there was another thread with an issue like this, several people having spark plug wires coming loose at the coil. I would check all 8 at both ends.

^^^

Edited by AC_USMC_Ret
  • Like 1
kennerz Enthusiast

kennerz

Posted
Posted (edited)

There are a lot of opportunities for air leks with a catch can. I was runing worm gear style clamps and noticed that it was distorted a little. Switched to a spring style/factory style clamp and I noticed I had a stronger brake pedal and my MPG went up. so couldn't pinpoint that I had a leak but it ran better when I made sure all fittings were secure/snug.

 

Any "false" air behind the MAF at all is a problem. EFI 101. Could cause all types of mild driveabilty issues. My truck actually ran stronger when I spring clamped all lines and made sure all catch can fitting were properly sealed. Running a cleanside breather and once I re-routed the factory stuff and plugged the ports on the factory inlet tube it ran noticeable better and the brake pedal was strong. which leads me to believe air can get in where you don't want it.

 

To the topic above, if your can leaks, you have an air leak. pretty simple.

Edited by kennerz
Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

Been a while since I've seen that. Haven't driven much in the cold yet. Mine will fill up real fast ...

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
Posted

How many miles did it take to produce that?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Let me look tomorrow it's in my excel spreadsheet

 

 

Ryan

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
Posted

3 months and 3,205 miles

 

A little longer than I normally go between draining

 

 

Ryan

brwk Enthusiast

brwk

Posted
Posted

Getting back to air leaks....shouldn't you throw a code if the can's connections aren't fully sealed?

Crf450r420 Enthusiast

Crf450r420

Posted
Posted

If it is a hose and it bounces, it could only loose seal at certain moments on leak more at those moments. Just a thought. Most like that guy had other issues.

 

This week will finally be below 80 here so no more sweating. I'm sure will go back up though.

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted (edited)

Getting back to air leaks....shouldn't you throw a code if the can's connections aren't fully sealed?

 

I guess technically. If you suck in enough unmetered air, some sort of code should be thrown. I've never had an issue tho. All my connections are with screw type clamps too. They are all tight.

Edited by fondupot

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 494 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      2015 Silverado 3500 right rear turn indicator failure

      By davester · Posted

      consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • Chuck FB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Snowcamo
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By Snowcamo · Posted

      Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...