Jump to content

Oil catch can?

C25A1guy

By C25A1guy
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

GDI Tech Enthusiast

GDI Tech

Posted
Posted

Correct. And I think you can purchase the can alone.

 

The side by soide testing is amazing to see how much gets past almpst ALL ther cans when tested inline with the E2-X Elite. Then done in reverse. Almost nothing gets past the E2-X and take most any other brand, even those costing far more and they still allows as much past as they catch.

 

So, really pays to get the best, and that is Elite's E2-X, E2 next, and orifginal Elite for the least priced.

  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

ToesonTheNose
ToesonTheNose

Here at RX now they are doing a video install on my truck

Jay700
Jay700

My dealership said my catch can wasn't needed and wouldn't catch anything. I opened it in there shop after 2,000 miles and let it run on the floor. Lol

fondupot
fondupot

So, I added a second output fitting to my Original RX catch can. I had been emailing with the RevExtreme folks about the benefits of a dual output can, and they were gracious enough to send me the par

Posted Images

schmolf4 Enthusiast

schmolf4

Posted
Posted

Where are you guys getting these cans from? I've been seeing them price from $30 to $350. Seems like a pretty wide range in price. Is there one that a guy is suppose to stay away from or are they all pretty much equal? I have a 2015 GMC Serria All Terrain with the 6.2 love it so far but have been doing so reading and found the catch can thing coming up often. Do I really need the $400 one? Also any recommendations for a truck?

looks like most people are going with the one I recently purchased for my '15 All Terrain 5.3l

 

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/elite-engineering-catch-can/

 

but it also sounds like this one is getting popular:

 

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/elite-engineering-e2-x-catch-can/

Steeks Enthusiast

Steeks

Posted
Posted

Where are you guys getting these cans from? I've been seeing them price from $30 to $350. Seems like a pretty wide range in price. Is there one that a guy is suppose to stay away from or are they all pretty much equal? I have a 2015 GMC Serria All Terrain with the 6.2 love it so far but have been doing so reading and found the catch can thing coming up often. Do I really need the $400 one? Also any recommendations for a truck?

GDI Tech Enthusiast

GDI Tech

Posted
Posted

95% no matter the price only trap a very small percentage of what your attempting to keep from touching the valves, and that includes some over $1000.

 

The E2-X is the latest in air/oil separation and was designed just for the extreme needs of the new GDI engines that cannot tolerate any ingestion.

 

The E2 was the step before the E2-X and is an excellent solution for the port injection engines that can tolerate a bit and it beats almost all other brands, but nothing beats the E2-X.

 

Most $20-$150 cans are near useless if tested against others.

 

go to: www.EliteengineeringUSA.com to find them, or many vendors as well carry them.

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
Posted

My Mike Norris can was $125. I would by no means call this a cheap or an inferior product. Mike knows these gm engines very well

 

 

Ryan

BuyAmericanIron Enthusiast

BuyAmericanIron

Posted
Posted

We supply the hoses separately on the E2-X Catch Cans. They can be a little troublesome to push into the AN fittings, but we found if you run the hose ends under hot water, it really helps to assemble the two.

 

I have used push on hose and fittings for years. The hot water trick works good but I have found an easier way. Use a bit of petroleum jelly on the inside of the hose and on the AN barbed fitting. Use your workbench or other suitable surface you can push against. Put the AN fitting against the solid object and while holding the hose tightly, push the hose onto the barbed fitting. I like to use something that is about waist high and put my hand holding the hose against my hip bone for added leverage. The hose will slide right onto the fitting but can only be removed by cutting the hose. Can be difficult with larger hose, but for the size used in this application, it slides right on.

Elite Engineering Enthusiast

Elite Engineering

Posted
Posted

 

I have used push on hose and fittings for years. The hot water trick works good but I have found an easier way. Use a bit of petroleum jelly on the inside of the hose and on the AN barbed fitting. Use your workbench or other suitable surface you can push against. Put the AN fitting against the solid object and while holding the hose tightly, push the hose onto the barbed fitting. I like to use something that is about waist high and put my hand holding the hose against my hip bone for added leverage. The hose will slide right onto the fitting but can only be removed by cutting the hose. Can be difficult with larger hose, but for the size used in this application, it slides right on.

 

Yes, this works great as well. Thanks for posting.

Rock1500 Senior Enthusiast

Rock1500

Posted
Posted (edited)

I installed the E2-X catch can today. It wasn't overall that bad. I also installed the clean air oil separator. I do have a few questions.

 

1- The clean air separator replaces the oil cap. It doesn't really lock into place as much slide into the plastic fitting that i got and installed. It seems kinda of loose, is that how it suppose to be? It won't ever slide out?

 

2 - I installed the catch can near the wind shield wiper fluid. It all went well except putting the fittings. I am a novice with cars and never dealt with the fittings. So I installed the barbs into the hose and tried to link it with the fittings in the catch can. It is holding but I don't think I went about it right. How am i suppose to attach the hose to the fittings in the catch can?

 

I figured out how to connect the hose correctly, now everything fits in nice and tight. I just need to work on the mount to straight it out a bit more and place it in the correct spot.

 

 

My other question is what is the High Flow check value for?

Edited by Rock1500
CH15GMC Enthusiast

CH15GMC

Posted
Posted

I'm thinking of replacing my Elite basic can with the new E2-X can and clean side separator. I've read all the post but not 100% sure on all of this.

 

Is the clean side worth it? Should I get the two outlet can (one line going to the intake)? I want this truck to last so I want whatever will be the best in the long run. Still $360 is a lot to drop on this but if it's for the best I might as well now then later.

 

I have 5.3 if that matters any. Thanks for your advise and help.

glcbn Enthusiast

glcbn

Posted
Posted

I'm thinking of replacing my Elite basic can with the new E2-X can and clean side separator. I've read all the post but not 100% sure on all of this.

 

Is the clean side worth it? Should I get the two outlet can (one line going to the intake)? I want this truck to last so I want whatever will be the best in the long run. Still $360 is a lot to drop on this but if it's for the best I might as well now then later.

 

I have 5.3 if that matters any. Thanks for your advise and help.

 

Their website explains which can to use for different applications. I'd like to know if the E2-X kit comes with the clean side separator. Not very explicit on their site. Or maybe I just didn't see it. Not sure.

The E2-X kit is 339.00 plus shipping on Elite's website. Where did you see 360.00?

CH15GMC Enthusiast

CH15GMC

Posted
Posted

Their website explains which can to use for different applications. I'd like to know if the E2-X kit comes with the clean side separator. Not very explicit on their site. Or maybe I just didn't see it. Not sure.

The E2-X kit is 339.00 plus shipping on Elite's website. Where did you see 360.00?

The kit includes the clean air separator. The dual outlet can (which I read earlier is what you want for constant negative pressure) is $358 (rounded up to $360). Just not sure if the dual outlet can is what I should get or the single. If single outlet I think check valves are included in the kit as well.

  • Like 1
Elite Engineering Enthusiast

Elite Engineering

Posted
Posted

The kit includes the clean air separator. The dual outlet can (which I read earlier is what you want for constant negative pressure) is $358 (rounded up to $360). Just not sure if the dual outlet can is what I should get or the single. If single outlet I think check valves are included in the kit as well.

 

 

Yes, the Single E2-X Catch Can is $339.00, it does include (1) Exit Check Valve.

GDI Tech Enthusiast

GDI Tech

Posted
Posted

Another option is to utilize the smaller Elite can on the cleanside as you already have it, and just buy the E2-X dual valve. I can give instructions if needed on how to route it and saves on getting the cleanside.

 

The kit does include the cleanside, so look at just the single or dual valve E2-X. The dual valves advantage is it gives evacuation at all times utilizing the secondary suction source for when your accelerating or at WOT when intake manifold vacuum is not available. The dual valve comes with 2 checkvalves I am pretty sure.

 

Fondupots videos are great at showing all as well.

glcbn Enthusiast

glcbn

Posted
Posted

Ok, so which to get, dual valve or single with the separator? Picking from the drop down menu, there isn't a GM truck option for a dual valve E2-X. What I'm looking for is probably on the site, I just don't see it.

Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted (edited)

Right in the drop down menu, first listing says "GM Truck 2014+ ...." http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/elite-engineering-e2-x-catch-can/

 

Dual valve has 3 lines, so the can never loses vacuum, even at wide-open throttle. Single is 2 lines - one to PVC, one to intake.

Edited by Jsdirt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 461 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      2015 Silverado 3500 right rear turn indicator failure

      By davester · Posted

      consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • Chuck FB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Snowcamo
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By Snowcamo · Posted

      Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...