Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

That's weird. Even on the coldest of days mine will be ready to go in a couple cycles of the remote start.

Posted

That's weird. Even on the coldest of days mine will be ready to go in a couple cycles of the remote start.

 

Yeah, I think I might have a bad thermostat. I've never had a vehicle take this long to warm up.

Posted

When its above 15 degs one cycle is all I need I also keep my heat on the auto setting that turn the blower on full blast till you insert the key

 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Posted

Joe_K,

 

Hello! I understand that you have come concerns regarding Remote Start and your vehicle heating up. I would be happy to look into this concern for you. Could you private message me referencing this thread including your contact information, VIN, current mileage, and preferred dealership?

 

Jennifer T.

GM Customer Care



Posted

Yeah, I think I might have a bad thermostat. I've never had a vehicle take this long to warm up.

 

Looking through the manual it states when remote starting the vehicle it remembers the previous settings. This may take some experimenting but what if you tried some different settings like activing the recirculation mode, manual mode opposed to auto, or possibly closing some of the vents in the dash with the thumb wheel. I learned something looking for this too. It states the rear redefroster will activate when its cold enough but the light does not come on during remote start. Hope this helps.

Posted

This won't work with the Auto-start but i noticed in the manual their is a fast idle option in the manual on page 9-28. I would think a faster idle would warm it up faster.

Posted

I added a Viper 2-way paging alarm and I'm able to adjust the run time. I only have mine set for 12 min because that is all I usually need. I'm not sure what the maximum time allowed is but when I first got it, it was set for 15 min

Posted

I'm finding this remote start to be better than on my old '07 Yukon...

 

The one difference is that the Yukon would be 'warm' when I got in after two cycles, while the Sierra really isn't all that warm just getting in...BUT the second you turn the key there is a lot of hot air ready for you if you want it...the Yukon never had hot air ready.

 

The Sierra does fog up more during remote start, especially with snow on the windshield, but I have some RainX Fog wipes I'm going to try.

 

I'll also say this, the fob remote start has a hell of a lot more range than in my old Yukon.

Posted

I'll also say this, the fob remote start has a hell of a lot more range than in my old Yukon.

 

 

I noticed this myself, I actually use my IPhone app more than the key fob.

 

Mike

Posted

This won't work with the Auto-start but i noticed in the manual their is a fast idle option in the manual on page 9-28. I would think a faster idle would warm it up faster.

 

Pretty sweet feature. Too bad you can't do it remotely.

 

Fast Idle System
If equipped, this feature is available only with cruise control. The manual fast idle switch is operated using the cruise control buttons on the left side of the steering wheel.
This system can be used to increase engine idle speed whenever the following conditions are met:
. The parking brake is set.
. The brake pedal is not pressed.
. The vehicle must not be moving and the accelerator must not be pressed.
To enable the Fast Idle System:
. Press and release the cruise control on/off button and ensure that the switch indicator light is lit.
. Press and release the cruise control SET- button. Engine speed will be held at approximately 1200 rpm.
When the fast idle is active, the Driver Information Center (DIC) will display FAST IDLE ON.
Posted

 

Pretty sweet feature. Too bad you can't do it remotely.

 

Fast Idle System
If equipped, this feature is available only with cruise control. The manual fast idle switch is operated using the cruise control buttons on the left side of the steering wheel.
This system can be used to increase engine idle speed whenever the following conditions are met:
. The parking brake is set.
. The brake pedal is not pressed.
. The vehicle must not be moving and the accelerator must not be pressed.
To enable the Fast Idle System:
. Press and release the cruise control on/off button and ensure that the switch indicator light is lit.
. Press and release the cruise control SET- button. Engine speed will be held at approximately 1200 rpm.
When the fast idle is active, the Driver Information Center (DIC) will display FAST IDLE ON.

For those that are interested the diesels have the 'fast idle' and also an 'elevated idle'.

 

Elevated Idle

 

The engine has a cold temperature high idle feature which elevates the engine idle speed from base idle

to 1050 rpm for pickup models or 1200 rpm for van models when outside temperatures are below 0°C

(32°F), and the engine coolant temperature is below 65°C (150°F). This feature enhances heater

performance by raising the engine coolant temperature faster.

 

This feature can be turned on or off using the DIC buttons. If the vehicle is not equipped with DIC buttons, do

the following to turn this feature on or off:

1. Turn the ignition to ON/RUN, with the vehicle off.

2. Press the accelerator pedal to the floor and hold while quickly pressing the brake

pedal three times in less than eight seconds.

3. Release the accelerator pedal and start the engine.

 

When the engine is started, it will slowly ramp up to the high idle speed after a delay of a few

seconds up to approximately two minutes. For this method to work properly there must be no

throttle or brake pedal faults.

 

The engine idle speed will return to normal once the following conditions are met:

 

Once engine coolant temperature reaches 65°C (150°F).

Air intake temperature reaches0°C (32°F).

 

The high idle speed will be temporarily interrupted and the

engine speed will return to normal if any of the following conditions ccur:

 

The brake pedal is applied.

The accelerator pedal is pressed.

The transmission is shifted out of P (Park) or N (Neutral).

Vehicle speed is detected.

 

Once these inputs are removed, the engine idle speed will slowly ramp back up to high idle after the normal

delay, if the conditions for engine coolant temperature and air intake temperature are still met.

 

Posted

I noticed this myself, I actually use my IPhone app more than the key fob.

 

Mike

 

I use the OnStar app a bit too, but mainly because of the novelty of starting my truck with my phone... My ramp is across from my office building and down the block, with my old truck I had to walk down the hall to conference room to get close enough, now I can do it without leaving my desk... Quicker than having to go through to the app, punch in my my pin, hit 'ok' to 'only use remote start where legal & safe' prompt (which I don't get, is remote start not legal in all states?)...

 

Just easier, though not as cool, to use the fob. Best use I know of for the app is when you're flying back home in the winter and you can start your truck from the tarmac or terminal.

Posted

This won't work with the Auto-start but i noticed in the manual their is a fast idle option in the manual on page 9-28. I would think a faster idle would warm it up faster.

Awwwww, I just checked & my truck doesn't have it. Anyone else try?

Wonder if it's only for work & fleet vehicles (since they often use high idle to run accessories/equipment off truck's power?)

Posted

Awwwww, I just checked & my truck doesn't have it. Anyone else try?

Wonder if it's only for work & fleet vehicles (since they often use high idle to run accessories/equipment off truck's power?)

Probably only the 2500/3500's.

Posted

I use the app at work because I am probbly 1/2 miles from my parking spot

 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 1 Anonymous, 488 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...