Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

anyone that bought a catback system install it at home without a lift how big a job is it?

 

thinkin about the gm/borla system thanks terry

Posted (edited)

anyone that bought a catback system install it at home without a lift how big a job is it?

 

thinkin about the gm/borla system thanks terry

Most CatBack systems don't require any welding and are pretty straight forward. Can be done at home no problem.

I have installed Borla and Corsa kits other than taking up some of your time, the work is fairly easy.

 

Edit: a lift would be nice but is not required on most 4x4 trucks. If you can slide under the truck and don't mind crawling around on the ground, it's gravy train.

 

Edit: you may not be able to get your factory exhaust out without cutting it somewhere, with a lift it's a bit tricky but you can get it out all in one piece. Most people cut it somewhere anyway just to get it out easier.

Make sure you have a large piece of cardboard or something to put the muffler and other components on, helps to get them under the truck easier.

Edited by 14LTZZ71
Posted

Borla GMPP dual out the back ordered and should be ready to pickup by tomorrow afternoon!

Decided to go with GM system. More comfortable with installing a part with a GM parts number on my brand new truck...after warranty expires I will consider changing the muffler/removing the AFM flapper and doing a tune.

  • Like 1
Posted

Both..

 

That flare in the aFe pipe is where I cut it and added the different tip. The aFe tip in the kit is 3.5 in and 4.5 out... ok for a diesel, not a 5.3L IMO.

You have a pic of the new tip? I agree the provided one is wayyyy to big.

Posted

Borla GMPP dual out the back ordered and should be ready to pickup by tomorrow afternoon!

Decided to go with GM system. More comfortable with installing a part with a GM parts number on my brand new truck...after warranty expires I will consider changing the muffler/removing the AFM flapper and doing a tune.

mine will be here Tuesday I went gmpp dual side exit

expensive but ill be able to hear it run now :driving:

  • Like 1
Posted

Exhaust is installed!

How's the sound? I want the GM Borla but tow quite a bit and don't want to aggressive/sound. I understand its the touring muffler not the sport correct?

Posted (edited)

Yes touring muffler...

Sound is quite subdued...

I am sure it will get a bit more aggressive as it runs in over a few weeks.

Still very quiet inside...nice bark under hard acceleration, but still not boy racer loud.

So far sounds just like the videos Borla has posted for the GM systems.

 

Took about 1.5 hours total for install, doing it solo...

Took most of the time getting the truck up high enough to get the stocker out in one piece. :)

 

Will be towing our 7,000#+ travel trailer up to south Lake Tahoe next week, so we will see how it goes.

Edited by Daniel T
Posted

Awesome thanks for the info. I had a Borla touring muffler on my 2011 and it was a little loud while towing but that was on a 5.3 with 3.42 gearing. My 6.2 has 3.73 and can stay in 5th longer. The 5.3 had to go down to 3rd at times and the noise got old while towing. Please report back after your trip I tow a 5500# TT as well.

Posted

I ran dual pipes to a x pipe than to a di/do 40 series flowmaster.. Sounds better than any of those catback systems I've heard in person and on the internet. Absolutely zero drone. Loud when you want it to be and mild while idling. My dic is showing 1 mpg increase.. My truck feels more snappier. It was a noticeable difference. .

Posted

aqazejen.jpg2e6yzuta.jpgudazarem.jpg2e3ebe6e.jpgqe6a3ymy.jpg

 

Sorry if that pictures are crappy quality it was a rush to take them and it was also felt like 190 in there. I'll be home Tuesday night I'll take better pictures and maybe a video if someone wants it

  • Like 1
Posted

Hello! I have a 2014 silverado ltz 5.3L and I want to know your opinions on the best exhaust to gain MPG. I don't want my truck to be super loud, I just want a nice low rumble, nothing obnoxious. Suggestions please?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Are you using a weight distribution hitch system with your trailer as that alone can change the actual tire pressure requirements needed. It would prove interesting to see what the actual individual axle weights are on your truck when you are hooked up to the trailer. In fact when your hooked to the trailer, typically if anything unless it has a large capacity weight distribution system that is over cranked, often the weight on the front axle will be less when hooked up vs driving empty and certainly if one doesn't have a weight distribution hitch. Really the only times one may get up there with weight on the steer axle is if there was a snow plow mounted on the front or a motorcycle on a rack or with a very large jockey tank full of fuel at the front of the box that transfers a bit of its weight to the front axle. 
    • Great info here thank you. I just joined, we have a 2014 Silverado truck we bought about 4 years ago with less than 5,000 miles on it. It has approximately 24,000 on it now. It appears to have all the standard issues that people are talking about. Occasional charging problems especially using 110 volt, occasional blinking triangle where nothing will turn on when first starting the truck but it will reset itself if you wait 10 to 15 minutes. Noisy coupler between the flywheel and the generator. Our truck is speed limited to 74 mph, is there any way to change that? The latest issue we have been dealing with is when driving long distance on the highway at full speed the generator does not keep the batteries charged. The meter will go into the yellow/red border Zone for charge status and the yellow triangle will illuminate solid but the generator will not keep the battery charged, not sure why the controller doesn't tell the gas engine to increase RPM to increase generator output it usually stays well below 25 kilowatts even though the battery is discharging and I have to slow down the highway to 45 mph and eventually pull over and let the truck idle to charge the battery so I can continue driving at speed. Has anyone had this issue before or have any idea how to diagnosed it? When via Motors was around it they were very helpful at troubleshooting. This becomes much if the Terrain is hilly and you're towing a small trailer
    • I have the GMC accessory (REV) cover installed by dealer. Ordered with the truck.  They did a very good install job, can't find a single issue. Some water gets in around the tailgate but no where else.  You can see daylight around the tailgate but that's not the covers fault.  Installation is means everything. Guys at my dealer were seasoned pros, not inexperienced here today good tomorrow types, like many dealers employ for these jobs.   I don't mind paying for a professional job.    
    • Like others have said, they will all leak. Mainly at the corners.   I have owned several and the best has been my current one. Revolver x4
    • About 8 months after an alignment job by the dealer I started experiencing a pretty significant clunk in the front end on hard left hand turns usually parking lot speeds almost at lock.  Occasionally get the same on hard rights too.   Discovered that the lower control arm attachment bolts are TTY and only to be used for a single use. And then I found some evidence of a TSB that indicates you can over torque those fasteners to about 130 foot pounds.   Asked a local shop to investigate and they found 3 out of four bolts loose and retorqued.   I've ordered the MOOG    K100421 lower control arm bolt kit that is completely reusable and not TTY.    Is the 80 ft pounds a realistic number?  Anyone have experience with those bolts?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...