Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 hour ago, qwank said:

I had camber issues, but the offset upper control arms bushings fixed them.  I wanted to kill myself while installing them though, What a pain in the ass even with the correct press adapters they give you

Ya that’s why I was thinking I wanted the upper control arms just to make everything easier ha

Posted
10 minutes ago, Shibbby911 said:

Ya that’s why I was thinking I wanted the upper control arms just to make everything easier ha

He ised belltech amd he has 4wd though. O think that was the issue but dont quote me on that

Posted
13 minutes ago, Shibbby911 said:

Ya that’s why I was thinking I wanted the upper control arms just to make everything easier ha

Mcgaughys has upper control arms, you can buy them in a kit with the spindles. @lovelessjl is running them

Posted

Word of caution, you'll have to cut the lower balljoint stud to run 20s, otherwise you'll have to go with 22s or larger with the mcgaughys spindles

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
5 minutes ago, lovelessjl said:

Word of caution, you'll have to cut the lower balljoint stud to run 20s, otherwise you'll have to go with 22s or larger with the mcgaughys spindles

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

I have 17s with mcg spindles

Posted
I have 17s with mcg spindles
We must have different spindles or something, there is no way I could get a 17 on mine. I've been meaning to ask about your setup because I wanna run smaller wheels at the track.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
We must have different spindles or something, there is no way I could get a 17 on mine. I've been meaning to ask about your setup because I wanna run smaller wheels at the track.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I have the cast arms. Maybe thats it i do know a guy with a 17 crew cab. Stamped steel arms and he has to use a spacer in the front with a 7 wide wheel and his clears

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted

I haven't been under the truck in a while, I don't remember which arms I have. My only gripe about my truck is that I can't run smaller wheels when I want to. Oh well, I'll figure something out

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
13 hours ago, lovelessjl said:

I haven't been under the truck in a while, I don't remember which arms I have. My only gripe about my truck is that I can't run smaller wheels when I want to. Oh well, I'll figure something out

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

I think you have stamped steel.  Could be why. I think you have to have a certain offset wheel. But i could be wrong

Posted

I think you're right about the arms... Gonna have to get creative when it comes time to add sticky rubber

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
17 minutes ago, lovelessjl said:

I think you're right about the arms... Gonna have to get creative when it comes time to add sticky rubber

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

You could always swap the front end to cast.  Ive done that to trucks here in town but might be more than you want to do.  Or just run a 20/17 like i did for awhile

20190203_123939.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

I guess the important thing is that the tire diameter be the same front to rear since I'll be launching in 4wd. I won't be making enough power to really need tall sidewalls up front for a while anyways.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted

You can fit 17's with the Belltech Spindles, they give you a low profile lower ball joint nut to use after cutting the balljoint stud down.  You can fit 18's by just trimming down the stud and using the stock nut.  

Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, qwank said:

You can fit 17's with the Belltech Spindles, they give you a low profile lower ball joint nut to use after cutting the balljoint stud down.  You can fit 18's by just trimming down the stud and using the stock nut.  

I got this nut from belltech as well. I didnt quite need it but it was close enough to buy it

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bel-2508-777

Edited by Nasty
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I was the GM of a Lincoln Mercury dealership back in the 80's. The service lot was always full with "broken" ones. Plenty of transmissions, power windows and a/c repairs. The only one I'd consider owning would be the Marauder at this point and it certainly wouldn't be a daily driver.  My 2025 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali Ultimate is my "Lincoln Town Car" in my retirement. I want all the "stuff". Big infotainment screens, one touch power windows, Supercruise (I won't buy another vehicle without it), hands free pretty much everything. I'm going to swap my current truck for a 2027 Yukon Denali Ultimate so I can have the air suspension and surround vision recording along with all the other "stuff". 
    • Yep mine is on backorder also.
    • The Denali Ultimate's grille is tinted, but the "regular' Denali has a bright chrome grille like the current models.
    • Because that is IDIOTIC, much like this question. They've already been forced to do it by past administrations - why would you roll that back when it's a GOOD thing?  WHO IS ARGUING FOR LOWER MILEAGE???? 😂  NOBODY IS!!   I'm certainly not! What I want is RELIABLE vehicles again that are worth the price paid!    I don't get your logic here ...   In 2003 I paid $2,200 for our '86 Grand Marquis. It's STILL running and I've never been inside the engine, aside for the timing cover since it was leaking, so I threw a new timing set in since that makes sense. Transmission is ORIGINAL. Electric pump in the gas tank is ORIGINAL. Rear end is ORIGINAL. I'd have to hit my head REAL hard to want to pay $60k or more for a car that still can't come close to the comfort, seating and storage space, or reliability of this one. Nothing is even in the ball park! Hundreds of thousands of brands and models have been built and sent to the crusher while this one keeps on going!   https://postimg.cc/Z9XRrCSg   I've got a whole fleet of cars, motorcycles, and a truck close to this age for summer and winter. No one could pay me enough to buy anything built this century. I have zero use for any it.
    • Since I'm the one who has to fix them when they break, I'll take vehicles over 30 years old all day, EVERY day, over ANY modern crap. Have you attempted any repairs on anything built after 2006? It's a friggin nightmare, and gets worse the newer the model year.    If I had the will or desire, I can make any car of any age outside of a Model T (I don't have THAT much will ...) just as powerful, comfortable, and have all the tech the new stuff does, and get pretty close in mileage, too. I prefer SIMPLICITY. The less the vehicle has, the less to fix WHEN it breaks, not IF.   I'm glad you snot-nosed punks don't like them. More for us, plus that keeps the prices from climbing more than they already have.👍
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...