Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
6 hours ago, TrueRider said:

I am new member to this forum and I have a question about lowering kits. I've read all the way back to page 146 and it seem like the best way to go is either Belltech or McGaugheys for a 4/6 drop kit on my 2014 Crew cab Silverado. I have the opportunity to purchase a INEZ 4/6 lower and upper A arm flip kit for a very good price and its tempting. What are the pros and cons with this kit. Should I stay away from this kit? Thanks  

Inez sucks ass.  Its a copy of the djm which is also crap but its actually worse.  Youll be swapping out the upper balljoint once or twice a year minimum.  

 

If you want a 4/6. Go with mcg.  Belltech is fine but usually at 4" in front youll need the offset bushings.   Im at 4.5 with mcg in front. And nk alignment issues 

Posted

Hey guys!

 

Just ordered my McG spindles, 2" lowering shackles, and shock extenders (just in case) today. I am removing the block as well from the axle, but forgot to address the "Spacers" I need as the consensus here seems to be that its ok to reuse the old bolts. I know Belltech has a spacer in their kit, trying to see if I can order that separately. I think I've heard to use washers as well? What type, size, and quantity? Using washers sounds kinda hackish to me but I may have no other option. I've seen replacement bolt P/N: 15002781 referenced here as being shorter but Rock Auto's price is about $23 a piece plus shipping and it says it's not for my 2016. Any other suggestions besides flat washers I should consider?

 

Thanx,

Krunch

Posted
2 minutes ago, krunch said:

Hey guys!

 

Just ordered my McG spindles, 2" lowering shackles, and shock extenders (just in case) today. I am removing the block as well from the axle, but forgot to address the "Spacers" I need as the consensus here seems to be that its ok to reuse the old bolts. I know Belltech has a spacer in their kit, trying to see if I can order that separately. I think I've heard to use washers as well? What type, size, and quantity? Using washers sounds kinda hackish to me but I may have no other option. I've seen replacement bolt P/N: 15002781 referenced here as being shorter but Rock Auto's price is about $23 a piece plus shipping and it says it's not for my 2016. Any other suggestions besides flat washers I should consider?

 

Thanx,

Krunch

I didnt need the spacers until i pulled out the overload leaf. You should be fine without them

Posted

Much thread left on the bolts when you torqued them down? Odd that Belltech offers a "Spacer" with their kit if they are not needed.

 

Just trying to get all my ducks in a row for when I drop my truck off to my guy to lower it. I don't want, and can't afford delays when doing this.

 

Thanx,

Krunch

Posted
1 hour ago, krunch said:

Much thread left on the bolts when you torqued them down? Odd that Belltech offers a "Spacer" with their kit if they are not needed.

 

Just trying to get all my ducks in a row for when I drop my truck off to my guy to lower it. I don't want, and can't afford delays when doing this.

 

Thanx,

Krunch

For me it was fine. 

Posted
2 hours ago, Nasty said:

Inez sucks ass.  Its a copy of the djm which is also crap but its actually worse.  Youll be swapping out the upper balljoint once or twice a year minimum.  

 

If you want a 4/6. Go with mcg.  Belltech is fine but usually at 4" in front youll need the offset bushings.   Im at 4.5 with mcg in front. And nk alignment issues 

Thanks for the info I guess I'm going to have to pass on the INEZ and get MCG 

Posted
Thanks for the info I guess I'm going to have to pass on the INEZ and get MCG 
Good choice

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
Much thread left on the bolts when you torqued them down? Odd that Belltech offers a "Spacer" with their kit if they are not needed.
 
Just trying to get all my ducks in a row for when I drop my truck off to my guy to lower it. I don't want, and can't afford delays when doing this.
 
Thanx,
Krunch
For me, the biggest advantage of the spacer is it was that much less distance you had to tighten down the bolts. I didn't have access to air tools and was doing it by hand so would've taken a lot longer to tighten down the nuts, lol.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Posted
16 minutes ago, jcfountain33 said:

For me, the biggest advantage of the spacer is it was that much less distance you had to tighten down the bolts. I didn't have access to air tools and was doing it by hand so would've taken a lot longer to tighten down the nuts, lol.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 

Can you describe the spacers / know the diameter, length, and hole size by any chance?

 

Thanx,

Krunch

Posted
42 minutes ago, krunch said:

Can you describe the spacers / know the diameter, length, and hole size by any chance?

 

Thanx,

Krunch

All it is is a spacer. Its like a 5/8" ID hole and they are like 3/4" long

  • Like 1
Posted
Hey guys!
 
Just ordered my McG spindles, 2" lowering shackles, and shock extenders (just in case) today. I am removing the block as well from the axle, but forgot to address the "Spacers" I need as the consensus here seems to be that its ok to reuse the old bolts. I know Belltech has a spacer in their kit, trying to see if I can order that separately. I think I've heard to use washers as well? What type, size, and quantity? Using washers sounds kinda hackish to me but I may have no other option. I've seen replacement bolt P/N: 15002781 referenced here as being shorter but Rock Auto's price is about $23 a piece plus shipping and it says it's not for my 2016. Any other suggestions besides flat washers I should consider?
 
Thanx,
Krunch
I did the MaxTrac 2 inch lowering shackles and the shock extenders (I did the extenders for my Magneride shocks since they seem to have more issues than many shocks). I decided not to remove the block to see how my truck would handle my 6k# travel trailer. 1 inch rake empty near level with trailer... Had to do a relearn on the Magneride shocks to get them working again properly. All is going well and to me truck rides better than it did stock.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  • Thanks 1
Posted
22 hours ago, Nasty said:

Good choice

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

I'm getting ready to purchase a MCG kit for my 2014 Silverado but I'm not sure if the springs and spindles option is the way to go. I was looking at the strut and spindles instead of the spring but I'm not sure between the two. What rides better. Thanks 34270 kit 

Posted
I'm getting ready to purchase a MCG kit for my 2014 Silverado but I'm not sure if the springs and spindles option is the way to go. I was looking at the strut and spindles instead of the spring but I'm not sure between the two. What rides better. Thanks 34270 kit 
You want the struts as you can adjust to correct the Chevy lean

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
Just now, Nasty said:

You want the struts as you can adjust to correct the Chevy lean

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Thanks for all your help!

Posted
I'm getting ready to purchase a MCG kit for my 2014 Silverado but I'm not sure if the springs and spindles option is the way to go. I was looking at the strut and spindles instead of the spring but I'm not sure between the two. What rides better. Thanks 34270 kit 
I got the 34270 installed last October and have zero regrets, it a really good kit.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,813
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    520Zilla
    Newest Member
    520Zilla
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 506 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi all,   I just bought a 2021 suburban RST with 88,000 miles on it and everything has been good but I’ve been noticing within the last month or so that there are small electrical things going on and I know what the AGM batteries and all the electric electrical in these big trucks you need to have a constant flow with good voltage   That being said, I bought a new battery thinking that that might have something to do with it but today I went to get in and start it and it said no key found when I had the key right in my pocket   It also proceeded to flash the lights inside and outside for over 30 minutes as I went to disconnect the battery as soon as I touch the negative terminal, I heard the relay reset and everything come back up. I got in the truck and started it no problem.   Anyone else have this happen to them? I’m starting to think it’s the KARR system that the dealer installed short circuit stuff.
    • I don't drive this truck on a regular basis since I have a new company truck with no out of pocket fuel or maintenance cost. Yesterday I got it out to run some errands and got the title message on my DCI. A quick Google search suggested to first clean the Map Sensor. I pulled it out and it was sooty so cleaned it up and reinstalled it. Issue not resolved. My OBDII is a couple years old so didn't see any codes. Today I took it to a friend at AutoZone to get him to check it with his reader. It had the following codes: P20C3 P02BB P221F Stating the most likely solution is to replace diesel emission fluid (DEF) tank assembly.   So, I guess a trip to the dealer is necessary. I read where there was a backorder on these tank assemblies several years ago so hope that has been resolved.
    • Are you using a weight distribution hitch system with your trailer as that alone can change the actual tire pressure requirements needed. It would prove interesting to see what the actual individual axle weights are on your truck when you are hooked up to the trailer. In fact when your hooked to the trailer, typically if anything unless it has a large capacity weight distribution system that is over cranked, often the weight on the front axle will be less when hooked up vs driving empty and certainly if one doesn't have a weight distribution hitch. Really the only times one may get up there with weight on the steer axle is if there was a snow plow mounted on the front or a motorcycle on a rack or with a very large jockey tank full of fuel at the front of the box that transfers a bit of its weight to the front axle.    And of course your tires carry more weight for a given tire pressure due to their size vs a stock sized tire so there is that to take into the equation as well. 
    • Great info here thank you. I just joined, we have a 2014 Silverado truck we bought about 4 years ago with less than 5,000 miles on it. It has approximately 24,000 on it now. It appears to have all the standard issues that people are talking about. Occasional charging problems especially using 110 volt, occasional blinking triangle where nothing will turn on when first starting the truck but it will reset itself if you wait 10 to 15 minutes. Noisy coupler between the flywheel and the generator. Our truck is speed limited to 74 mph, is there any way to change that? The latest issue we have been dealing with is when driving long distance on the highway at full speed the generator does not keep the batteries charged. The meter will go into the yellow/red border Zone for charge status and the yellow triangle will illuminate solid but the generator will not keep the battery charged, not sure why the controller doesn't tell the gas engine to increase RPM to increase generator output it usually stays well below 25 kilowatts even though the battery is discharging and I have to slow down the highway to 45 mph and eventually pull over and let the truck idle to charge the battery so I can continue driving at speed. Has anyone had this issue before or have any idea how to diagnosed it? When via Motors was around it they were very helpful at troubleshooting. This becomes much if the Terrain is hilly and you're towing a small trailer
    • I have the GMC accessory (REV) cover installed by dealer. Ordered with the truck.  They did a very good install job, can't find a single issue. Some water gets in around the tailgate but no where else.  You can see daylight around the tailgate but that's not the covers fault.  Installation is means everything. Guys at my dealer were seasoned pros, not inexperienced here today good tomorrow types, like many dealers employ for these jobs.   I don't mind paying for a professional job.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...