Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey guys and gals. I've been reading up on this thread and there are so many options that yall suggest. I have 2015 Silverado crew cab LT 2wd and was looking for a 2/4 drop. Wheels will be 22x12 with a 305/35 tires. I dont know which ones would give me "like factory" ride. What is all I have to purchase in order to achieve something like that. Thanks

Posted

Ok, another question...

 

How does the ride quality compare between a 2" shackle and block delete, and a 4" drop via a flip kit?

 

Thanx,

Krunch

Posted
Hey guys and gals. I've been reading up on this thread and there are so many options that yall suggest. I have 2015 Silverado crew cab LT 2wd and was looking for a 2/4 drop. Wheels will be 22x12 with a 305/35 tires. I dont know which ones would give me "like factory" ride. What is all I have to purchase in order to achieve something like that. Thanks
I'd go with mcgaughys spindles up front with a flip kit in the rear. I would suggest a 3/5 though. I had a 2/4 drop with the same size wheels and tires on my last truck, and honestly I wanted just a little more. bc30fc7b76e13b20674a1338a5c8a9c8.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
Ok, another question...
 
How does the ride quality compare between a 2" shackle and block delete, and a 4" drop via a flip kit?
 
Thanx,
Krunch
I think the difference between the ride is nearly negligible. You're using the same springs. However shock selection is going to determine if the ride is stiff or smooth.

With the shackles, use shock extenders, and you're good to go, you probably won't be able to tell a difference in the ride vs stock.

With the flip, get correct length shocks, and you'll have the same result. Shock extenders will help soften the ride but it will still be a bit stiffer. Get the right shocks and the ride will be as good or better than stock

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
2 hours ago, lovelessjl said:

I think the difference between the ride is nearly negligible. You're using the same springs. However shock selection is going to determine if the ride is stiff or smooth.

With the shackles, use shock extenders, and you're good to go, you probably won't be able to tell a difference in the ride vs stock.

With the flip, get correct length shocks, and you'll have the same result. Shock extenders will help soften the ride but it will still be a bit stiffer. Get the right shocks and the ride will be as good or better than stock

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

I think my ride is SLIGHTLY softer with 2" shackles and shock extenders. (Still stock shocks) May do those and get the lowering struts up front and set them at 0.5" and 1" depending on how the look is as soon as i remove the rear block. I want a tiny bit of rake.

 

Thanx,

Krunch

Posted

I have been considering a lowering my 2014 Sierra 1500 2WD but I really dont want to make any permanent mods to the truck like cutting off the rear leaf spring attachment brackets. Im really only looking for a 2/4 drop in height and found plenty of kits for this but all seem to require removing and replacing the rear leaf spring brackets.

 

The Rough Country 2/4 drop kit utilizes a shim/spacer to relocate the lower strut connection under instead of over the lower control arm. Its supposed to be good for a 2" drop at the front. And several places sell 2" drop leaf spring shackles. 

 

So Im wondering if I used the Rough Country type front strut relocation shims combined with some 2" drop leaf spring shackles, plus removing the factory 1" leaf spring spacer, could I achieve a legit 2" / 3" drop? 

 

 Overall it should work without any permanent mods to the truck. Just wondering if anyone has combined all three of these techniques and if, were you happy with the results? And if this works, does anyone have a work around to get the extra inch making it 2/4 drop?

 

 

RC-2inch-lowering-spacer.jpg

rear-drop-shackles.jpg

factory-leaf-spacer.jpg

Posted
1 hour ago, Vulcan762 said:

I have been considering a lowering my 2014 Sierra 1500 2WD but I really dont want to make any permanent mods to the truck like cutting off the rear leaf spring attachment brackets. Im really only looking for a 2/4 drop in height and found plenty of kits for this but all seem to require removing and replacing the rear leaf spring brackets.

 

The Rough Country 2/4 drop kit utilizes a shim/spacer to relocate the lower strut connection under instead of over the lower control arm. Its supposed to be good for a 2" drop at the front. And several places sell 2" drop leaf spring shackles. 

 

So Im wondering if I used the Rough Country type front strut relocation shims combined with some 2" drop leaf spring shackles, plus removing the factory 1" leaf spring spacer, could I achieve a legit 2" / 3" drop? 

 

 Overall it should work without any permanent mods to the truck. Just wondering if anyone has combined all three of these techniques and if, were you happy with the results? And if this works, does anyone have a work around to get the extra inch making it 2/4 drop?

 

 

RC-2inch-lowering-spacer.jpg

rear-drop-shackles.jpg

factory-leaf-spacer.jpg

Do not use that kit. Its horrible  

Posted
1 hour ago, Nasty said:

Do not use that kit. Its horrible  

Thanks for the reply. I was actually considering a hybrid set up but it sounds like you and others advise against the strut relocation to under the control arm. If thats the case then wouldn't a common solution to be to install a shorter strut and retain the factory mounting location?

 

Also, are you saying extended leaf spring shackles are a bad idea to?

Posted
Thanks for the reply. I was actually considering a hybrid set up but it sounds like you and others advise against the strut relocation to under the control arm. If thats the case then wouldn't a common solution to be to install a shorter strut and retain the factory mounting location?
 
Also, are you saying extended leaf spring shackles are a bad idea to?
What drop do you want ?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
4 minutes ago, Nasty said:

2" front / 4" rear

 

 

What drop do you want ?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

 

Posted
 
The proper way would be flip kit withift hanger and drop shackle. But you dont want to do all that. So its best you just do a 1/3 drop

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted

Shackles and block removal was dead level on my 17 crew cab. Was within 0.25" at all 4 fenders.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Posted

Hello all im new to the forum and was briefly reading the thread and wanted to ask a question or a series of some actually. I have a 2015 silverado double cab 2wd that i want to lower its all stock at the moment. Im eyeballing the djm 4/7 drop and am also eyeballing 22" and 24" wheels. And ive looked everywhere trying to get info and just cant get what im looking for. I use this truck as my sole means of transportation and it needs to remain just as reliable. So if i go 4/7 what would be the best options for wheel and tire size for best ride quality and least rub, and how would it effect towing? And if i can see pics of any examples that would be awesome as well. Thanks in advance for any help and advice 

Posted
Hello all im new to the forum and was briefly reading the thread and wanted to ask a question or a series of some actually. I have a 2015 silverado double cab 2wd that i want to lower its all stock at the moment. Im eyeballing the djm 4/7 drop and am also eyeballing 22" and 24" wheels. And ive looked everywhere trying to get info and just cant get what im looking for. I use this truck as my sole means of transportation and it needs to remain just as reliable. So if i go 4/7 what would be the best options for wheel and tire size for best ride quality and least rub, and how would it effect towing? And if i can see pics of any examples that would be awesome as well. Thanks in advance for any help and advice 
Nasty will tell you not to use DJM, if you look back through posts within the last few months you'll see his posts about why.

I have a 4wd single cab that I dropped 4/6 because I wanted to keep a slight rake, I used mcgaughys drop spindles, and flip kit, with shorter springs up front. But since you're 2wd, mcgaughys has a complete kit to go 4/7. I would add shocks to the rear that are the right length, I can't give you part numbers because I haven't gotten around to it yet.

For wheels and tires, I'm running 305/40/22 tires on 22x10 wheels. I do rub slightly, but it's just rubbing the liner and not any metal parts, and it doesn't bother me. If you run 285's on 22x9s I don't think you'll rub up front. I'm sure others will chime in later, but there's my 2 cents. 0987ffb97c62040beffb48243cc6a470.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Djm and inez are a nono.   

 

You have a double cab so i suggest a 4/6 drop for you  2015 2wd means you have the cast arms. Mcg 4/6 is my pick for your truck

 

If you want to tow then get the mcg helper bags

 

For ride quality. The smaller the wheel will be better. But a 22 will be fine. In a 4/6 for your truck id feel safe with a 285 40 22

Edited by Nasty
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,979 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
    • Fix one problem and find another.   Truck didn't have a thermostat in it so I flushed out the system today and refilled with 50/50 Dexcool. This truck is so old (LOL) that it has a sticker under the hood alerting people to the fact that it contains such. There is also an orange supplement with the owner's manual alerting the owner that "Your vehicle is one of a number of late production 1995 General Motors vehicles that use a newly developed engine coolant in the cooling system..."   I was still a little flummoxed by what seemed like a rich condition (exhaust smell, and a puff of carbon with a punchy rev). While watching the coolant temperature and testing the thermostat with my scanner, I happened to notice the IAT (incoming air temperature) to the intake was -40F. I know the temp is below average today, but I can still feel my face, and I was wearing shorts.   D'oh!! I realized I had never plugged the IAT back in, and the airbox was out while I was doing coolant. So I paused, reinstalled the airbox and plugged in the IAT, and viola. Things cleared right up, and I watched the coolant temp climb to a reported 198 degrees on the scanner (195 thermostat) and then it dropped to 194 (open) and then back up to 198 and held. Let it cool, came back, checked the coolant level and was satisifed.   Victory lap?   It needed more than the couple of gallons of gas I put in it from almost bone dry, so I ran it up to the gas station. It had earned it, or, at least I was pretty certain I wouldn't be draining or removing the tank anytime soon.   CEL popped on just as I was cruising a nice steady 40mph, just after coasting down a slight downhill curve.. Of course, it did, because, why let me enjoy not having dash emojis for a little while.   I just happened to have the scanner plugged in. I don't text and drive but I might scan and drive. Don't tell the police.   P0401, EGR flow insufficient.    Well, hello, EGR... ...my old friend! Welcome to the party, now that the engine reaches the factory-programmed operating temperature. I'm sure it was gagging on hostile, rich exhaust and carbon this whole time so I'll take it off and look again.   At least it's easily accessible, and worst case, about $65 to replace.   To keep, or to sell... Hmm. I want it running correctly either way. It's easier to sell when there are no fault codes.   It needs tires (they're aged out and cracking)   It could probably use an oil pan seal, or maybe the timing cover gasket/ junction with the pan needs redone because I've got an issue there that leaves a drop of oil on the floor.   If I do tires I'm sure they'll say the ball joints could use freshening, and, and, and, and.... At some point I'll have to stop. I can't (shouldn't) make it perfect, that's not what this rig is.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...