Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hoping for input on some options I’m looking at for dropping the Sierra.  2017 4x4 Double Cab.  Only looking for 2/4 drop.   Rear will be 4” flip with Belltech shock.  Is anyone flip kit better than another?  Come with shorty bumpstops?

McG front- 2” 4x4 specific spindle with corrective control arm ($860+/-)

Belltech- coil over drop with sway bar

Belltech- 2” drop spindle, no arms.  Includes shocks. 

Any 4x4 specific input would be great.  Leaning towards coil overs but feeling like McG probably got it right with the spindle/arm combo

Posted

I have a 2015 4wd dbl cab Silverado. Currently sitting 6/11 static. 4wd has been pretty much deleted. Didn’t need it once I quit working in northern states during the winter. For what your wanting I recommend Twisted Metal Workz out of Cali... Do a Viking 0-3” drop coilover and out back do any flip you choose paired with shock extenders and a set of fox 2.0 adventure shocks in the rear. It will ride like a dream, give you the ability to go lower if you ever choose to do so. 

Posted

2/4 drop. Spindle, and flip kit done.  

 

I have the twisted metal works front coilover kit and im buying the new upper arm they make. 

 

44 minutes ago, promqwn_15 said:

I have a 2015 4wd dbl cab Silverado. Currently sitting 6/11 static. 4wd has been pretty much deleted. Didn’t need it once I quit working in northern states during the winter. For what your wanting I recommend Twisted Metal Workz out of Cali... Do a Viking 0-3” drop coilover and out back do any flip you choose paired with shock extenders and a set of fox 2.0 adventure shocks in the rear. It will ride like a dream, give you the ability to go lower if you ever choose to do so. 

Reason i wouldn't do just the coilover drop is becsuse these trucks the lower you go the front wheel moves backwards into the wheel well causing more rubbing. He only wants 2 inches. Spindles wont affect that and itl keep the wheel centered

Posted

I don’t think rubbing is gonna be a factor with 2” inches no matter what he uses. I’m about to do that same twisted setup on mine with their 4 link combo in the rear. Guess I don’t think much about rubbing because I’ve already clearanced everything front and rear. 

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, promqwn_15 said:

I don’t think rubbing is gonna be a factor with 2” inches no matter what he uses. I’m about to do that same twisted setup on mine with their 4 link combo in the rear. Guess I don’t think much about rubbing because I’ve already clearanced everything front and rear. 

Sure is a factor. Im at 4.5/7.  Using a spindle and drop strut right now. Mywheel is pushed back over an inch.  And depending on tire size. It will rub.  It also affects caster and turning radius

 

When only going 2"  spindle is the best way.   I know everyone has tbeir way. But i lower these trucks for local constantly and i have found it best

 

Id like to see a picture of your truck from the side. 

Edited by Nasty
Posted
12 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Sure is a factor. Im at 4.5/7.  Using a spindle and drop strut right now. Mywheel is pushed back over an inch.  And depending on tire size. It will rub.  It also affects caster and turning radius

 

When only going 2"  spindle is the best way.   I know everyone has tbeir way. But i lower these trucks for local constantly and i have found it best

 

Id like to see a picture of your truck from the side. 

Here ya go... 6/11

75AE596D-33B8-41D5-82D1-5657A2AA8113.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted
Here ya go... 6/11
75AE596D-33B8-41D5-82D1-5657A2AA8113.thumb.jpeg.72ba675feda0de409a81efecf26a4736.jpeg
Looks great but you can see your wheel is pushed back. Thats one thing when i lower these trucks i try and do it so that that doesnt happen (as much)

Thats all im saying.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
1 minute ago, Nasty said:

Looks great but you can see your wheel is pushed back. Thats one thing when i lower these trucks i try and do it so that that doesnt happen (as much)

Thats all im saying.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

I have a reklez firewall tub kit that I haven’t installed. I just made a few relief cuts and then used a air hammer to round everything out. Went over it with liner. Rubbed on bad bumps with a 295/30/24. Switched to 275/30/24 and now no rub and turns full lock. 

Posted
I have a reklez firewall tub kit that I haven’t installed. I just made a few relief cuts and then used a air hammer to round everything out. Went over it with liner. Rubbed on bad bumps with a 295/30/24. Switched to 275/30/24 and now no rub and turns full lock. 
Correct. You did good for sure. But your caster is still affected pretty greatly. Thats all im saying. If it works for you then perfect. But most people dont want to tub and do all that work. Just like me

Im going to be installing my twisted coilover kit in place of the droo strut. And im orfering the new twisted upper arm (which moves the wheels forward and corrects some caster) im also lowering it another half inch.

The wheel not being centered bugs me on mine.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
1 minute ago, Nasty said:

Correct. You did good for sure. But your caster is still affected pretty greatly. Thats all im saying. If it works for you then perfect. But most people dont want to tub and do all that work. Just like me

Im going to be installing my twisted coilover kit in place of the droo strut. And im orfering the new twisted upper arm (which moves the wheels forward and corrects some caster) im also lowering it another half inch.

The wheel not being centered bugs me on mine.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Oh yea. I’m ordering that same setup from them. Guys over there are great to deal with. Good to know it will help the caster. I’ll end up setting those coilovers to go down another inch up front since I can adjust the stiffness. As you know that isn’t happening with the drop struts. Ha

  • Like 1
Posted
Oh yea. I’m ordering that same setup from them. Guys over there are great to deal with. Good to know it will help the caster. I’ll end up setting those coilovers to go down another inch up front since I can adjust the stiffness. As you know that isn’t happening with the drop struts. Ha
Nope. Not at all raul is a nice guy. Been very helpful. I have his rear shock relocarion as well and a notch he made to my specs that still needs to happen but not for awhile.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
2 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Nope. Not at all raul is a nice guy. Been very helpful. I have his rear shock relocarion as well and a notch he made to my specs that still needs to happen but not for awhile.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Oh yea, he got my shock relocation from Cali to Mississippi in like 3 days because my truck was down til it got here. I used the extensive notch with crossbars and had it not been underbed notched the one from extensive would have slid right onto my frame and been an easy install. I love my fox 2.0 shocks but I can’t wait to have their 4 link with Viking coilovers on the rear. 

Posted
Oh yea, he got my shock relocation from Cali to Mississippi in like 3 days because my truck was down til it got here. I used the extensive notch with crossbars and had it not been underbed notched the one from extensive would have slid right onto my frame and been an easy install. I love my fox 2.0 shocks but I can’t wait to have their 4 link with Viking coilovers on the rear. 
I love Vikings. One thing you may want to do instead of getting just his upper arm is getting his whole front arm kit. Ya its more expensive but it centers the wheel at any drop and youll turn better

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
Just now, Nasty said:

I love Vikings. One thing you may want to do instead of getting just his upper arm is getting his whole front arm kit. Ya its more expensive but it centers the wheel at any drop and youll turn better

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

I’ll definitely talk with him about it. It has djm arms on it now. Can’t complain about them, but if he thinks the their lower arm will be better I’ll get those along with the uppers. Reklez has a good set of arms also. All my friends in Texas rave about them. 

Posted
I’ll definitely talk with him about it. It has djm arms on it now. Can’t complain about them, but if he thinks the their lower arm will be better I’ll get those along with the uppers. Reklez has a good set of arms also. All my friends in Texas rave about them. 
Oh he will definetely tell you theyre better. We have talked about the djm arms before

Plus i pull djm and inez off arms local trucks all the time. Poor design

Those are also affecting your caster and steering. Twisted arm kit is the way to go for sure. If i was going any lower id do it. But im over being that low now. Especially here in califirnia the roads arent low friendly

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • More is cylinder deactivation. Kia-Hyundai Ive had 4. The warranty is the same 10 years 100K miles. My grandson drives the first one 05 Elantra GT. My wife drives the second one 2011 Genesis. The Genesis still performs as new and looks great. The Elantra looks rough. He’s not kind to it. The third was a Genesis coup. The fourth was a Santa Fe. Those were my daily drivers. I don’t keep them long. Kia is the same as Hyundai with the same warranty. I looked at the K-4 today. Too small, otherwise pretty good buy. Most of Hyundai and Kia’s have a performance upgrade. 
    • Thanks for the point of reference 
    • Great question. Answer....depends. One the volume of the crankcase, the driver that will actually be using the vehicle and the amount it uses plus the distance expected for that next trip. Couple of for instances:   Wife is going to drive Dizzy to Moline and back plus a bit around town so say 500 miles on the day. I know from years with that SUV that around town and local rural it uses about a quart in 1250 miles. But on the Interstate and her at the wheel without her anchor nagging her she'll push it and it will drop a quart in about 800 miles. Hence, around town I wait to somewhere between a quarter down to a quart down. On her trip I'd top it if it was down a few ounces and hope for the best.    Have I overfilled one? You mean by adding before it needs a full quart I assume. No, not once after finding the true fill mark.  I know the dipsticks of everything I drive and add what it needs. I learn this by doing the first oil change a quart low. Run the motor for a few minutes. Let it sit over night. Check and mark. Then add half a cup at a time making note of the place on the stick. I add through the dipstick tube with a barbeque basting bottle. Give it a few minutes to drain down and check again.    A vehicle like Dizzy that uses this much oil will take a few quarts between 3K changes. I keep one in the vehicle with the bottle and a bag. (Mindful of it's fullness) Not a big deal and never makes a mess of it. There is no such thing as "multiple quarts' in my shop for any specific oil. There will be a maximum however of the number of different oils used over the fleet.     Dizzy holds a nominal 5 quarts. So the first fill was indeed over as it actually took 4.75. My vehicles are fit with Valvomax valves so I can meter an ounce on the drain if need be. Found her mark first crack at it. Never to be repeated.    Pepper uses none between changes so I don't keep a quart in that one. Straight up 6 quarts put her dead on the full line. Check it ever fuel stop. They will surprise you when they start using.    Raven holds 3 liters or 5.44 ounces over three quarts. I add 3 quarts and 6 ounces. That gives me 5 oil changes on my orphan quart.    Lawnmower holds about 3/5 of a quart. I don't over fill it to prevent an orphan. So yea, depends. 
    • 185k on original 6.2L engine and 10 speed. 6" lift with 35" tires. Changed oil (Mobil 1 synthetic) when truck told me to. Original tranny with original fluid and no service or flush done. All highway miles. A/C compressor replaced at 155k. Oil cooler line replaced at 180k. Still daily driver. Love this truck.   This is my 3rd 6.2L vehicle (2008 Yukon Denali / 2018 Cadillac Escalade) with over 150k miles and no issues. Denali had broken motor mount at 100k.
    • 185k on original 6.2L engine and 10 speed. 6" lift with 35" tires. Changed oil (Mobil 1 synthetic) when truck told me to. Original tranny with original fluid and no service or flush done. All highway miles. A/C compressor replaced at 155k. Oil cooler line replaced at 180k. Still daily driver. Love this truck.   This is my 3rd 6.2L vehicle (2008 Yukon Denali / 2018 Cadillac Escalade) with over 150k miles and no issues. Denali had broken motor mount at 100k.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...