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2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

mjw930

By mjw930
in Modifications & Accessories

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Heavy_Static
Heavy_Static

A few pics from last week:    

bakerrr
bakerrr

First post here Picked her about 2 weeks ago couldn't wait to start modifying it. Just installed Belltechs 4/7 drop this weekend It's low enough for the time being ??  

Nasty
Nasty

Posted Images

Boostholic Enthusiast

Boostholic

Posted
Posted

Not sure I understand....you want to do a 3/5 but don't want to change springs or struts?

 

that's right no spring or struts they tend to get their own alignment after 4k miles that's what i have gone through on my nbs i don't know about their new stuff to till the truth .

 

 

Your aluminum control arms limit your options like they did for me on my 2015 Z71, meaning no spindle options for you unless you are willing to go and buy some steel control arms (which isn't all that expensive actually). If you want to go down 5" in the rear you are definitely looking at flipping the rear + cutting/removing the rear bump stops. Depending on how much weight you haul/tow, you might be able to get away without having to cut off the rear bump stop brackets.

 

 

i don't haul or tow with it , swapping ain't what i have in mind if it doesn't fit will wait for some company to do it eventually thanks man .

 

 

 

 

 

 

Only one that will give you a 3in drop without struts/springs is the DJM control arms, most a spindle will do is 2" and I've heard the McG spindle is more like 1.25 but no first hand knowledge.

 

do you have a part number for djm control arms ?

spindle will net 2" but i don't think they made any for aluminum trucks ? do they ?

 

thanks bro .

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted

I've read in this thread that a 2" drop has some people shortening the driveshaft and causing pinion angle issues? :confused: So...are we saying we can't put enough load in the box to squat the rear 2" without damaging the truck? :rolleyes: Taking the shocks past travel and...and...and??? ​ ​That isn't much of a load.

07Softail Senior Enthusiast

07Softail

Posted
Posted

I've read in this thread that a 2" drop has some people shortening the driveshaft and causing pinion angle issues? :confused: So...are we saying we can't put enough load in the box to squat the rear 2" without damaging the truck? :rolleyes: Taking the shocks past travel and...and...and??? ​ ​That isn't much of a load.

LOL.... I did a 3-5 drop with no issues at all.

 

RT

  • Like 1
Chase037 New Member

Chase037

Posted
Posted

Did you guys have the 1.25" factory block in the rear? I want to remove mine but do not know what u bolts I will need or if I can use the same ones?

Badass69 Senior Enthusiast

Badass69

Posted
Posted

Did you guys have the 1.25" factory block in the rear? I want to remove mine but do not know what u bolts I will need or if I can use the same ones?

I yarded mine out and just tightened up the stock bolts again. Even if you feel you need to replace them the stock length is a non issue.

 

Sent from my PURE XL using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
KBSmith New Member

KBSmith

Posted
Posted

Hey guys! First post. Lots of good info. I did mcgaughys 2 inch drop shackles today, and pulled the block. Still got about an inch in the rear... Seems maybe my truck was a little higher than most. Before drop, rear measured 39 3/4

2016 Silverado custom. Dbl cab 2 wheel drive.

14 Silvy Enthusiast

14 Silvy

Posted
Posted

I have read the entire thread but i couldn't make my mind set on what to chose for my truck so here goes ,

 

2014 chevy silverado 1500 z71 with aluminum front end

 

i want to lower it to 3/5 at least , don't want any spring or strut options because alignment issues

 

DJM or mcgaughys who ride great and don't ruin anything with 4wd stuff they didn't specify any lowering options for 4wd trucks

 

Belltech ride great as far i can used in another truck but alignment is an issue even if do it right it will need another after a while

I used the DJM 4" control arms and a Street Edge flip kit on my 2014 4x4 haven't had any issues with the 4wd. My truck also came with aluminum control arms and spindles.a82a3cf53977b42fb85804a53ae95124.jpg

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
DanHamilton Enthusiast

DanHamilton

Posted
Posted

currently on McGaughys 2/3.5 drop kit with my '14 Z71 but already want to go lower. Thinking about going with the DJM 3/5 drop to get alittle more aggressive and fix the front alignment issues

 

post-160226-0-72840500-1471995505_thumb.jpg

 

post-160226-0-11497000-1471995538_thumb.jpg

post-160226-0-72840500-1471995505_thumb.jpg

post-160226-0-11497000-1471995538_thumb.jpg

post-160226-0-72840500-1471995505_thumb.jpg

post-160226-0-11497000-1471995538_thumb.jpg

post-160226-0-72840500-1471995505_thumb.jpg

post-160226-0-11497000-1471995538_thumb.jpg

SATX New Member

SATX

Posted
Posted

post-161693-0-80395700-1472046858_thumb.jpg

 

Since this site helped me so much I thought I would add my finished project along with some technical information.

 

Truck: 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 V8 Crewcab 2WD

Lowering Kit: Belltech 996SP

Wheels: Black Rhino Traverse wheels 22"x9.5" offset 25 - had the outside spokes masked and inside done in a gold powder coat and then clear powder coated.

Front Tires: 285x45 Yokohama Parada Spec-x - no fitment issues - no mods to inner fender skirt

Rear Tires: 305x45 Yokohama Parada Spec-x - no fitment issues - no mods to inner fender skirt

Lowering Option: I went with 3/5

 

Installation - I did this on jack stands in my driveway. I am an occasional shade tree mechanic. Probably had 60 man hours or 5 weekend days to complete. On a scale of 1-10 with 10 being the hardest it was probably an 8 doing the job on jack stands by myself. There is NO frame notching with Belltech's 996SP kit. It was very time consuming and doing the flip kit in the rear required some ingenuity because the axle had to be suspended and tied high and held while I did all the spring work. Cutting off the bump stops was a pain. I had to use my plasma cutter. Drilling out the 3 rivets per rear leaf spring hanger was a pain. Used an air chisel after drilling a hole down the center to knock off rivet heads and then air punch to push them out. Replaced all the factory bushings with poly as well and that was a major pain removing the old that only had 14,000 miles on them and replacing with the new. After I had everything complete the last step was installation of the transmission spacer to correct the driveline angle. When I rolled up to the transmission on my creeper I discovered my driveshaft had fallen out with all the moving of the rearend that I had done. It was resting on the frame brace so it never it the ground and was why I did not notice it. It made it easier to install the spacer anyhow. When I went to re-stab the driveshaft after unbolting the rear u-joint I was like holy crap this thing may not go back in because the snout was bottomed out in the tranny. I managed to wedge it in there and then pulled it back to fit into the rear end pinion. Belltech says no driveshaft shortening necessary. I read the driveshaft should insert on the tranny spline 70%. I will go in and measure the distance. I can tell you there is zero driveline vibration. The truck drives perfect at very high highway speeds as well as low speeds. About the only mistake that I made and I see no reason to change was I am running the Belltech shackle at the rear of the springs rather than the factory shackle. I did not see the table in the Belltech instructions that says for the 3/5 option use the factory shackle. The rake on the truck to me is perfect. Just a tad bit higher in the rear than the front. The profile is amazing.

 

Alignment - Belltech says back to stock. No issues no problems cost me $71 out the door.

 

Final ride quality - exactly like stock. Truck drives absolutely perfect. I was surprised. Nothing rough, bumpy, springy like a low rider - nothing. Just like stock. Apparently Belltech did a great job on this kit.

 

If anyone has any questions let me know and I will try to answer them or take any pics you may need of the installation.

 

 

post-161693-0-80395700-1472046858_thumb.jpg

post-161693-0-80395700-1472046858_thumb.jpg

post-161693-0-80395700-1472046858_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
14 Silvy Enthusiast

14 Silvy

Posted
Posted

attachicon.gifSideShotEdit.jpg

 

Since this site helped me so much I thought I would add my finished project along with some technical information.

 

Truck: 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 V8 Crewcab 2WD

Lowering Kit: Belltech 996SP

Wheels: Black Rhino Traverse wheels 22"x9.5" offset 25 - had the outside spokes masked and inside done in a gold powder coat and then clear powder coated.

Front Tires: 285x45 Yokohama Parada Spec-x - no fitment issues - no mods to inner fender skirt

Rear Tires: 305x45 Yokohama Parada Spec-x - no fitment issues - no mods to inner fender skirt

Lowering Option: I went with 3/5

 

Installation - I did this on jack stands in my driveway. I am an occasional shade tree mechanic. Probably had 60 man hours or 5 weekend days to complete. On a scale of 1-10 with 10 being the hardest it was probably an 8 doing the job on jack stands by myself. There is NO frame notching with Belltech's 996SP kit. It was very time consuming and doing the flip kit in the rear required some ingenuity because the axle had to be suspended and tied high and held while I did all the spring work. Cutting off the bump stops was a pain. I had to use my plasma cutter. Drilling out the 3 rivets per rear leaf spring hanger was a pain. Used an air chisel after drilling a hole down the center to knock off rivet heads and then air punch to push them out. Replaced all the factory bushings with poly as well and that was a major pain removing the old that only had 14,000 miles on them and replacing with the new. After I had everything complete the last step was installation of the transmission spacer to correct the driveline angle. When I rolled up to the transmission on my creeper I discovered my driveshaft had fallen out with all the moving of the rearend that I had done. It was resting on the frame brace so it never it the ground and was why I did not notice it. It made it easier to install the spacer anyhow. When I went to re-stab the driveshaft after unbolting the rear u-joint I was like holy crap this thing may not go back in because the snout was bottomed out in the tranny. I managed to wedge it in there and then pulled it back to fit into the rear end pinion. Belltech says no driveshaft shortening necessary. I read the driveshaft should insert on the tranny spline 70%. I will go in and measure the distance. I can tell you there is zero driveline vibration. The truck drives perfect at very high highway speeds as well as low speeds. About the only mistake that I made and I see no reason to change was I am running the Belltech shackle at the rear of the springs rather than the factory shackle. I did not see the table in the Belltech instructions that says for the 3/5 option use the factory shackle. The rake on the truck to me is perfect. Just a tad bit higher in the rear than the front. The profile is amazing.

 

Alignment - Belltech says back to stock. No issues no problems cost me $71 out the door.

 

Final ride quality - exactly like stock. Truck drives absolutely perfect. I was surprised. Nothing rough, bumpy, springy like a low rider - nothing. Just like stock. Apparently Belltech did a great job on this kit.

 

If anyone has any questions let me know and I will try to answer them or take any pics you may need of the installation.

 

 

Great looking truck. Could you snap a pic of the rear pinion angle? I have a slight vibration put in 6° shims but I think 4° would have solved it. Thanks

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

SATX New Member

SATX

Posted
Posted

14 Silvy - I will get my angle finder out and take a pic this weekend measuring the angle. I will post it up on Monday for you.

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