Jump to content

Vibration Vs. Tire/Wheel Combo


mzodarg

Vibration Vs. tire and wheel combo  

61 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Posted

Goodyear has two different tires on their 20 inch set up. The ones I have on both of my trucks are the SR A. The tires I had on my 2010 were Goodyear LS 20 inch I think and they still put the same tire on the 14's. They were loud but no vibration either.

Posted

Thanks, not sure this poll will go anywhere. I feel bad for those who have the vibration, I just don't understand how some have it and other don't.

Posted

continental 20s def junk tires and making my truck shake like crazy and the dealer or GM is doing nothing to fix it very stressful week

 

truck is 1 week old today

Posted

mz, I think it is the tires. Just some bad and some good in every brand GM puts on the trucks. I do not see why they do not just put Michelin LTX M/S or A/T on them and be done with it. Even Ford is using Michelins on some trucks. Walk a dang Honda lot and all you see is Michelin on the rides.

Posted

I have had problems with the Michelin before also. Had them on a Cadilac STS. After 18,000 miles, plenty of tread but they were hard as a rock and no traction at all. I lost traction several times on a wet rode nearly causing an accident before I decided to replace them at 18,000 miles. Just my experience , others may differ.

Posted

Vibration could be caused or corrected by the type of tire balance done at the factory.

Regular balance just spins wheel/tire, while "road force" (or similar names) balance also uses a metal cylinder to press against the tire and simulate tire deformation as it travels down the road. Gives a more accurate balance and might help some with their vibration issues.

 

See also: http://www.gsp9700.com

_

Posted

Bearman95, I have run Michelins for 40 + years and never had issues. The LTX is good. Not sure what you had on the Cad. Any run flat Michelin or others are a pain.

 

I am just trying to get guys with a vib problem to get a good balance. Road force is good but some people do not know how to use it. So go get some one that does. High speed balance on the truck is the best. Still and issue, replace the OEMs. A good tire shop that sells more than one brand and can balance a tire can spot a bad tire.

Posted

Yeah, My concern is that there are others who have changed tires (not necessarily Mitchelins) and no change.

 

There's a guy on here that did a tire swap with no change, then dealers changed the drive shaft along with another set of tires (it think they were Mitchelins) and now he has no vibrations. So was it the tires or the drive shaft?

 

Mike

Posted

I have 4x4, crew cab, 6'6" box, 3.42 rears, 5.3 engine with 18" factory Z71 wheels and Goodyear RS-A's (265-65-18) built in early July and took delivery July 30th with approx 3600 miles and have no vibration at highway speeds up to 80mph. This truck has a 1 piece rear driveshaft. The only complaint I have with the tires is lack of traction. They will break loose with lighty wet road with less than 1/2 throttle! Just maybe wonder if the "bad tires" affect 2wd or shorter wheelbase trucks more. Maybe a couple more questions need to be added to the poll.

 

Anybody else have a vibration at around 30 mph under acceleration? It is definitely in the driveline.

Posted

FWIW: Updated with more choices for bed length and Cab size 2wd or 4wd. Did not add SC with continental tires.

Posted

mine is a 14 Sierra build date was 10/28/13 I believe. it's a crew cab short bed z71 4 wheel drive 5.3 w/ 3.42's 18" goodyears. no issues here (knock on wood). I still want to get rid of these poor excuse for tires mainly due because they are tiny and have no traction off the road. I worked at discount tire for 5 1/2 years. couple of things I learned there was don't buy cheap tires unless your OK with them blowing out on you at the worst time (financially or road trip) and then they damage your vehicle. the 2nd would be not to buy goodyears. I'm sure there are a ton of people out there that are hardcore goodyear tire junkies but balancing some of those tires (mainly talking about truck tires) was a PITA. for instance I could balance my old tires 285 70 17 bfgs with 08 chevy avalance wheels, and when I balanced them I balanced them the "wrong" way. basically I put the hammer on weights on the inside lip and then sticky weights on the outside part of the wheel (behind the spokes) and the most it would ever call for was around 3-4 ounces which is a decent amount of weight but not a whole lot. now putting a set of 285 70 17 goodyears silent armor all terrains and trying to balance those..... man talk about putting no a bunch of weight. it was not out of the norm for a goodyear to call for approx. 5-8 ounces, and that was balancing them correctly (meaning putting the hammer on weights on both sides if the wheel allowed it). not to mention I had the goodyear ls2's on my gmt 900 and the sucked, terrible traction in wet conditions due to the siping in the tires.

 

everyone has their own preference's and that is fine. when it comes to tires do not cheap out like gm and put some crappy tire on there. if you want a steet tire the only street tire I will ever put on a truck is the Michelin LTX MS/2's (the Michelin AT/2's had lots of problems with abnormal wear, I'm sure they have corrected it but just an FYI). If you want any kind of off road tire I would get BFG (which is made my Michelin) or nitto's.

Posted

Were did the 20s go?

Clearly one should not be sipping HAP (hot apple pie) while doing a poll. Not sure I can fix it, but I'll try.

 

Mike

Posted

Dealer swaps tires and still and issue? Question to ask, can the dealer properly balance a tire and/or can the dealer spot a bad tire? I would give the dealer one or two shots and then find a known good tire shop.

 

then one will know if it is not the tires. Vibration is very personal too. I have ridden with folks that had bad vibration and did not even notice it. Or like me, if not glass smooth not good.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...